brake light ISUZU TROOPER 1998 Service Repair Manual

0BÐ8 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
FLUID TYPE
Clutch and brake fluid reservoir Besco brake fluid (For light duty)
Hydraulic brake fluid SAE J1703
FMVSS 116 DOT.3 grade
LUBRICATION MAKE BRAND / TYPEGRADE
API ACEA
ISUZU GENUINE BESCO ATF II, ATF III
EXXON / ESSO ESSO ATF D (DEXRONÒ
II-D)
Automatic transmission MOBIL MOBIL ATF (DEXRONÒ
III)
Power steering CALTEX ATF HD (DEXRONÒ
II)
SHELL SHELL DONAX TA (DEXRONÒ
II-D)
ELF ELFMATIC G3 (DEXRONÒ
III)
TOTAL TOTAL FLUID IID (DEXRONÒ
II-D)
ISUZU GENUINE
BESCO L-2 GREASE (No.2), L-3 GREASE (No.3)Propeller shaft sliding EXXON / ESSO RONEX MP (No.2)
yoke, Universal joint MOBIL MOBILGREASE HP 222 (No.2)
Grease fittingCALTEX / TEXACOSTARPLEX-2 (No.2)
(General purpose grease)SHELL SHELL RETINAX A (No.2)
TOTAL MULTIS EP2, EP3 (No.2, No.3)
Propeller shaft slidingISUZU GENUINE ONE LUBER MO GREASE
yoke EXXON / ESSO BEACON Q2 (No.2)
Universal joint EXXON / ESSO MULTIPURPOSE GREASE (Moly) (No.2)
General purpose greaseCALTEX MOLYTEX GREASE EP2 (No.2)(in Molybdenum)TOTAL TOTAL MULTIS MS2 (No.2)
ISUZU GENUINE BESCO LLC SUPER TYPE E
TEXACO / CALTEX HAVOLINE EXTENDED LIFE ANTIFREEZE
Engine cooling system COOLANT
HAVOLINE XLC
EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT 6280
NOTE:
When the recommended lubricants are specified in the workshop manual, follow them.

SERVICE INFORMATION 00 – 7
Problem Possible Cause Correction
POWER STEERING SYSTEM
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound when the
steering wheel is fully turned and the car is not moving. This noise will be most evident when the wheel is
operated while the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise and steering
performance. Do not replace the valve unless the "hissing" noise is extremely objectionable. A replacement
valve will also have a slight noise, and is not always a cure for the condition.
Rattle or Chucking Noise
Poor Return of Steering
Wheel to Center
Momentary Increase in
Effort When Turning
Wheel Fast to Right or
Left
Steering Wheel Surges or
Jerks When Turning
Especially During Parking
Excessive Wheel Kick
Back or Loose Steering
Hard Steering or Lack of
Power Assist1. Pressure hose touching other parts of
vehicle.
2. Tie rod ends loose.
3. Loose steering gear mounting.
4. Steering gear misadjustment.
1. Improper front wheel alignment.
2. Wheel bearing worn.
3. Tie rod end binding.
4. Ball joint binding.
5. Tight or frozen steering shaft bearing.
6. Steering gear misadjustment.
7. Sticky or plugged steering gear valve.
8. Entry of air in the power steering
system.
1. High internal leakage.
2. Power steering fluid level low.
1. Insufficient pump pressure.
2. Sticky steering gear valve.
3. Power steering fluid level low.
1. Air in system.
2. Tie rod end loose.
3. Wheel bearing worn.
1. Sticky steering gear valve.
2. Insufficient pump pressure.
3. Excessive internal pump leakage.
4. Excessive internal steering gear
leakage.
5. Power steering fluid level low.Adjust hose position. Do not
bend tubing by hand.
Tighten or replace tie rod end.
Tighten steering gear
mounting.
Check and adjust steering gear
preload.
Adjust front wheel alignment.
Replace front wheel bearing.
Replace tie rod end.
Replace ball joint.
Replace steering assembly.
Adjust the steering gear.
Repair or replace steering gear
valve.
Bleed the system.
Repair steering gear.
Replenish fluid.
Repair pump assembly.
Repair or replace steering gear.
Replenish fluid.
Bleed hydraulic system.
Tighten tie rod end.
Replace wheel bearing.
Repair or replace steering gear
valve.
Repair pump assembly.
Repair pump assembly.
Repair steering gear.
Replenish fluid.

REAR SUSPENSION; COIL SPRING 3D – 5
4. Insulator
Install the insulator on the coil spring. Jack up the axle
case gently with the top of the coil spring to set the
spring seat on the frame side.
3. Shock Absorber
Tighten the nut lightly, and retighten to the specified
torque after the vehicle is at curb height.
NOTE:
When mounting shock absorber, be sure not to use
grease on bushings or any other nearby part.
Shock Absorber Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
78 (8.0 / 58)
2. Stabilizer Bar
Stabilizer Bar Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
50 (5.1 / 37)
1. Parking Brake Cable Bracket

REAR SUSPENSION; COIL SPRING 3D – 9
INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if wear,
damage, corrosion or any other abnormal condition are
found through inspection.
1. Trailing Link
2. Rubber Bushing
Remove the rubber bushing.
Remover: 5-8840-2298-0 (J-39214)
Install the rubber bushing.
Installer: 5-8840-2298-0 (J-39214)
NOTE:
When mounting rubber bushings, be sure not to use
grease on bushings or any other nearby part.
INSTALLATION
3. Trailing Link
Make sure that the trailing link is in its correct
position.
NOTE:
When mounting trailing link, be sure not to use
grease on bushings or any other nearby part.
2. Bolt and Nut
NOTE:
Tighten the bolts and nuts lightly, and retighten to
the specified torque after the vehicle is at curb height.
Trailing Link Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
137 (14.0 / 101)
1. Parking Brake Cable
CAUTION:
The parking brake cable should not be overstrained or
slackened.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4B2±15 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD)
7. Slowly start the vehicle in the 4L mode, and
accelerate to at least 20 km/h. Apply the brake to
completely stop the vehicle.
If the CHECK lamp starts blinking during the test run, read
the trouble codes and give appropriate maintenance
according to the fault diagnostic procedure. If the TOD
indicator lamps are lit abnormally during the run, check
the lighting condition and give appropriate maintenance
according to the fault diagnostic procedure. Even if the
phenomena are not observed, try to reproduce the
abnormal state reported by the customer to the possible
extent.
Post-Repair Check
As long as the starter is not turned off, the TOD indicator
lamps continue blinking even after the failed control unit is
repaired. Therefore, upon completion of repair, be sure to
turn off the starter switch once and then turn on it to
conduct the test run sequence specified in steps 1
through 6 above and check that the TOD indicator lamps
no longer show any faulty status.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2±24
No.NAMECONTENTS
1VIGPower supply (IG)
2N.CNot used
34WD OUT4WD signal output
4SOL (+)Electromagnetic solenoid
5ADC (+)Axle disconnect output
6LIGHTING SWLighting SW input
7BRAKEBrake SW input
84H SW4H SW input
94L SW4L SW input
10AXEL SWAXEL SW input
11ABS INOperation signal input
12TOD SWTOD SW input
13DIAGSelf-diagnosis input
14D-G MAPD-G MAP recognition input (Only V6 engine)
15Ref.Vehicle speed sensor supply
16N.CNot used
17US/JAPDestination recognition input
18COM (±)Vehicle speed sensor GND
19S-GNDSensor GND
20P-GNDPower GND
21TPSThrottle position sensor
22TECH 2TECH 2 output
23Rer. SigRear vehicle speed sensor input
24Frt. SigFront vehicle speed sensor input
25IND.a4WD disply signal a
26IND.b4WD display signal b
27IND.c4WD display signal c
28IND.AUTOAUTO display output
29IND RrRear display output
30CHECKTOD warning lamp

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2±26
Checking Failed TOD Control Unit Pin
NOTE:
1. Unplug the ECU connector and the pins, unless
otherwise specified.2. Before removing the ECU, turn off the ignition switch.
3. If the standard values are not observed, check the
pins with other testers.
Check
Pin
No.Circuit to be
testedIgnition
Switch
PositionEngine
StateMultimeter
Scale/
RangeMeasure
between Pin
NumberStandard ValveNote
14D-G MAPOFFSTOP
14, 19Continuity : OK
(Gasoline)
20P-GNDOFFSTOP
20, 19Continuity : OK
19GNDOFFSTOP
19, GNDContinuity : OK
84H SWOFFSTOP
8, 19No continuity (high,
4L) and continuity
(N) : OK
94L SWOFFSTOP
9, 19No continuity (high)
and continuity (4L,
N) : OK
10AXLE SWONRUN
10, 19Continuity : OKRemove ECU and start the engine. Move
the vehicle forth and back to connect axle
surely.
13DIAGOFFSTOP
13 (TOD), 8
(DLC Con-
nector)Continuity : OKDLC connector terminal 8
25IND.aONSTOPDCV25 (+), 19 (±)8.0 ~14.5 VLighting SW ON : 0V
Lighting SW OFF : 8.0 ~14.5 V
26IND.bONSTOPDCV26 (+), 19 (±)8.0 ~14.5 V
27IND.cONSTOPDCV27 (+), 19 (±)8.0 ~14.5 V
30CHECK
LAMPONSTOPDCV30 (+), 19 (±)8.0 ~14.5 V
11ABS INONSTOPDCV11 (+), 19 (±)11.5 ~14.5 V
15Ref.ONSTOPDCV15 (+), 19 (±)5 ~9 VConnect ECU
24Ft.(+)ONSTOPDCV24 (+), 19 (±)0.7 ~6 VConnect ECU (off one tooth of speed
sensor ring) and move the vehicle making
sure of voltage change.
23Rr.(+)ONSTOPDCV23 (+), 19 (±)0.7 ~6 VConnect ECU (off one tooth of speed
sensor ring) and move the vehicle making
sure of voltage change.
18COM(-)ONSTOPDCV18 (+), 19 (±)0VConnect ECU
1VigONSTOPDCV1 (+), 19 (±)8 ~14.5 V
7BRAKEOFFSTOPDCV7 (+), 19 (±)8 ~14.5 VPress brake pedal
21TPSONSTOPDCV21 (+), 19 (±)0.2 ~4.6 VStep on the accelerator pedal and make
sure that voltage changes.
34WD OUTOFFSTOP
3, 197 ~12 k
Disconnect battery GND terminal
5ADC(+)OFFSTOP
5, 1910 ~30
Disconnect battery GND terminal
4SOL(+)OFFSTOP
4, 191.0 ~5.0
Disconnect battery GND terminal
12TOD SWONSTOPDCV12 (+), 19 (±)SW OFF : 0 V
SW ON : 8.0 ~14.5 VSW OFF : Contact point open
SW ON : Contact point close
6LIGHTINGONSTOPDCV6 (+), 19 (±)SW OFF : 8.0 ~14.5
V
SW ON : 0 V
28AUTO INDIONSTOPDCV28 (+), 19 (±)TOD : 0 V
2H & 4L : 8.0 ~14.5
VLighting SW ON : 0V
Lighting SW OFF : 8.0 ~14.5 V
29RR INDIONSTOPDCV29 (+), 19 (±)0 V
17US/JAPOFFSTOP
17 (+), 19 (±)No continuity : OK

4C±5 DRIVE SHAFT SYSTEM
7. Remove the parking brake cable mounting
bolts(Behind the back plate)(1).
311RS001
8. Remove the bearing holder mounting nuts.
9. Remove axle shaft assembly.
NOTE: Be sure not to damage the oil seal.
10. Remove snap ring.
11. Using a bearing remover 5±8840±2295±0 and press,
remove retainer together with the bearing holder.
420RW024
12. Remove bearing.
13. Remove bearing holder.
14. Remove back plate.15. Remove the wheel pins using a remover
5±8840±0079±0.
420RW023
Inspection and Repair
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if wear,
corrosion or any other abnormal conditions are found
through inspection.
Visual Check:
Check the following parts for wear, damage, noise or any
other abnormal conditions:
1. Axle shaft
2. Bearing
When checking the axle shaft, pay special attention to the
splined portions and replace the shaft if distortion or step
wear is noticeable. Correct slight step wear with a grinder.
420RS008