fuel JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Workshop Manual

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems
Engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1
Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2B•1
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4•1
Engine electrical systems Page 5•1
Emissions and engine cone control systems Page 6•1
Transmission
Automatic transmissionPage 7•1
DrivetrainPage 8•1
Brakes and suspension
Braking systemPage 9•1
Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1
Body equipment
Bodywork and fittingsPage 11•1
Body electrical systems Page 12•1
Wiring diagramsPage 12•16
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF•1
Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•1
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution Page REF•1
Conversion factorsPage REF•2
Use of EnglishPage REF•3
Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•4
General repair procedures Page REF•5
Tools and working facilities Page REF•6
MOT test checksPage REF•8
Fault findingPage REF•12
Glossary of technical terms Page REF•18
IndexPage REF•22
Contents

These models are equipped with dual overhead cam in-line six-
cylinder engines. The engines feature a computer-controlled ignition
system and electronic fuel injection. Transmissions are a four-speed
automatic equipped with a lock-up torque converter. The transmission
is mounted to the back of the engine, and power is transmitted to the
fully independent rear axle through a two-piece propshaft. The
differential is bolted solidly to a frame crossmember and drives the
wheels through driveshafts equipped with inner and outer U-joints.
The front suspension is fitted with upper and lower control arms, coil
springs and shock absorbers. The rear suspension is an independent
type suspension which also have coil spring/shock absorber
assemblies and a lower control arm. The rear driveshaft acts as the
upper control arm.
Power-assisted Anti-lock Brake Systems (ABS) with four-wheel disc
brakes are standard equipment on all Jaguar XJ6 models covered in
this manual. Power rack-and-pinion steering is also standard
equipment.
Your Jaguar manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It
will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and
give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults
occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the
car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks
are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.
Notes for UK readers
Because this manual was originally written in the US, its layout
differs from our UK-originated manuals. The preliminary and reference
sections have been re-written specifically for the UK market, and the
maintenance schedule has been amended to suit UK vehicles.
However, it will be noticed that some references to componentsremain in the US style; the UK equivalent of US components and
various other US words is given in the Section headed “Use of
English”. It should be remembered that the project vehicle used in the
main Chapters of this manual was a left-hand drive US model;
therefore, the position of the steering wheel, steering column and
pedals, etc. will be on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK models.
References to “right” and “left” will need to be considered carefully to
decide which applies to UK models (eg the headlight dipped beams
should be adjusted to dip to the left of the headlight vertical line
described in Chapter 12, instead of to the right on US models). In other
instances, no reference is made to the location of a particular item, but
that item may be located on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK
models. Reference to the underbonnet photos at the start of Chapter 1
will give the reader the location of the engine compartment
components on UK models.
All specifications in the main Chapters of the manual appear in
Imperial form; the equivalent metric values can be calculated using the
“Conversion factors”page.
The only other major difference between UK and US models is in the
level of emission control equipment fitted to the vehicle. To meet the
strict emission standards present in the US, all vehicles for that market
are fitted with various emission control systems (see Chapter 6), most
of which are not fitted to the corresponding UK model, especially so on
early models. Therefore, a lot of the information contained in Chapter 6
is not applicable to UK models.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Jean Preis, Rich Wilson and Ray Marcuse of
Silver Star Jaguar (Thousand Oaks, CA), Rick Calaci of Conejo Imports
(Newbury Park, CA) and Jim Strohmeier and Jonathan Lund of British
Motor Cars (Thousand Oaks, CA), for providing valuable technical
information. Technical writers who contributed to this project include
Jeff Kibler, Robert Maddox and Jay Storer.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from, the information given.
0•4Introduction
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1989 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Safety first!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•6Roadside repairs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with
common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
manual, and repair information in the main chapters.
If your car won’t start
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn
MIf it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the
selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.
MOpen the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals
are clean and tight.
MSwitch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.
If your car won’t start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal
MIs there fuel in the tank?
MIs there moisture on electrical components under the
bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol
product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system
electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads.
Check the condition and security of the
battery connections.ACheck that the spark plug HT leads are
securely connected by pushing them onto
the plugs and distributorery connections.BCheck that the HT leads and wiring
connectors are securely connected to
the ignition coil.C
Check that the wiring connectors are
securely connected to the injectors and
various fuel system sensors and switches.D
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them
with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

3261 Jaguar XJ6
1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Automatic transmission fluid and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Battery check and general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Braking system - general check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Differential oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Differential oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Front wheel bearing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
General lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Handbrake shoes check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Headlight beam check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Power hydraulic system fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Propshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance schedule 1•3
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly, or every 250 miles (400 km)
m mCarry out all the operations given in “Weekly
checks”at the start of this manual.
m
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 18)
m mCheck the ignition system components (Section 19)
m mCheck the crankcase ventilation system
(Section 20)
m mCheck the condition and tension of the drivebelt(s)
(Section 21)
m mCheck the front wheel bearing adjustment and
repack with grease (Section 22)
m mCheck the propshaft fasteners are tightened to the
specified torque (Section 23)
m mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 24)
m mCheck the headlight beam alignment (Section 25)
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km)
or 6 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 4)
m mCheck the power hydraulics fluid level (Section 5)
m mCheck the battery (Section 6)
m mCheck all pipes and hoses for signs of damage or
leakage (Section 7)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 9)
m mCheck the condition of the exhaust system
(Section 10)
m mCheck the brake pads and discs for wear and
adjust the handbrake (Section 11)
m mCheck the steering and suspension components
for wear or damage and check the wheel nuts are
tightened to the correct torque (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of the seat belts (Section 13)
m mLubricate all locks and hinges, and exposed cables
(Section 14)
m mCarry out a road test (Section 15)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
m
mRenew the coolant (Section 30)
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m
mCheck the handbrake shoes for wear (Section 29)
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km)
or 2 years, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 26)
m mRenew the differential oil (Section 27)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 28)
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km)
or 12 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 16)
m mRenew the air cleaner element (Section 17)

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Front underbody view
1 Air conditioning compressor
2 Drivebelts
3 Anti-roll bar
4 Alternator
5 Lower radiator hose
6 Lower control arm
7 Steering gear boot
8 Steering gear
9 Engine sump drain plug
10 Exhaust system
11 Outer tie-rod end
Rear underbody view (typical)
1 Rear suspension control arms
2 Differential drain plug
3 Differential filler plug
(not visible)
4 Exhaust pipe
5 Driveshaft
6 Silencers
7 Handbrake cable
8 Fuel filter

1 General information
1This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
4As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the proximity of two otherwise-
unrelated components to one another. For
example, if the vehicle is raised for any
reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the
same time as the suspension and steering
components.
5The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the extent
of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.4The following series of operations are those
which are most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 6).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to “Weekly checks”).
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 16).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
f) Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 17).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 18).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (see
Chapter 6).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (refer to
Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 19).
1•6Maintenance procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
2
1Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy for mopping up
any spills.
3Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by
axle stands.
4If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
location of the oil drain plug. The engine and
3.2 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide in order to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves - When removing the drain
plug and filter, it is inevitable that you will
get oil on your hands (the gloves will
prevent burns)
3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is pretty tight and a long breaker bar is
needed to loosen it
4 Socket – To be used with the breaker bar
or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit
the drain plug)
5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type
wrench, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective
6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a
ratchet or breaker bar (different size
spanners are available for different types of
filters)

leak be found, renew the offending gasket or
oil seal by referring to the appropriate
Chapters in this manual.
2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable ties or securing clips are in place
and in good condition. Clips which are broken
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring, which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention
to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the
cooling system will usually show up as white-
or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
6Also check the condition of the power
steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Automatic transmission
fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is at its
normal operating temperature.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. Allow the fluid
to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3If the vehicle has not been driven, park the
vehicle on level ground, set the handbrake,
then start the engine and bring it to operating
temperature. While the engine is idling,
depress the brake pedal and move the
selector lever through all the gear ranges,
beginning and ending in Park.
4With the engine still idling, remove the
dipstick from its tube (see illustration). Check
the level of the fluid on the dipstick (see
illustration)and note its condition.
5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag and reinsert it back into the filler tube until
the cap seats.6Pull the dipstick out again and note the fluid
level. If the transmission is cold, the level
should be in the COLD or COOL range on the
dipstick. If it is hot, the fluid level should be in
the HOT range. If the level is at the low side of
either range, add the specified transmission
fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid
to fill the transmission to the proper level. It
takes about one pint to raise the level from the
low mark to the high mark when the fluid is
hot, so add the fluid a little at a time and keep
checking the level until it is correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish
brown colour, or if it emits a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed (see Section 26). If
you are in doubt about the condition of the
fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare
the two for colour and smell.9 Differential oil level check
1
1The differential has a check/fill plug which
must be removed to check the lubricant level.
If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the
plug, be sure to support it safely on axle
stands - DO NOT crawl under the vehicle
when it’s supported only by the jack!2Remove the lubricant check/fill plug from
the differential (see illustration).Use a
3/8-inch drive ratchet and a short extension to
unscrew the plug.
3Use your little finger as a dipstick to make
sure the lubricant level is even with the
bottom of the plug hole. If not, use a syringe
or squeeze bottle to add the recommended
lubricant until it just starts to run out of the
opening.
4Refit the plug and tighten it securely.
10 Exhaust system check
1
1With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
This should be done on a hoist where
unrestricted access is available.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
hangers are in good condition and tight (see
illustration).
3At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•11
1
9.2 The differential check/fill plug is
located on the rear of the differential
housing - place your finger in the filler plug
hole to make sure the lubricant level is
even with the bottom of the hole
10.2 Check the exhaust system hangers
(arrowed) for damage and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
8.4a The automatic transmission dipstick
(arrowed) is located in a tube which
extends forward from the transmission
8.4b Check the automatic transmission
fluid with the engine idling at operating
temperature and the gear selector in Park,
then add fluid to bring the level to the
upper mark

silencer and catalytic converter. If the
components can come in contact with the
body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust
system with new mounts.
5Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe.
The exhaust deposits here are an indication of
engine state-of-tune. If the pipe is black and
sooty or coated with white deposits, the
engine is in need of a tune-up, including a
thorough fuel system inspection.
11 Braking system - general
check and adjustment
2
Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1In addition to the specified intervals, the
brakes should be inspected every time the
wheels are removed or whenever a defect is
suspected. Any of the following symptoms
could indicate a potential brake system
defect: The vehicle pulls to one side when the
brake pedal is depressed; the brakes make
squealing or dragging noises when applied;
brake pedal travel is excessive; the pedal
pulsates; brake fluid leaks, usually onto the
inside of the tyre or wheel.
2The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning lamp to
illuminate on the instrument panel when
they’re worn to the renewal point. When the
warning light comes on, replace the pads
immediately or expensive damage to the
discs can result.
3Loosen the wheel nuts.
4Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
5Remove the wheels.
Disc brakes
6There are two pads (an outer and an inner)
in each caliper. The pads are visible through
inspection holes in each caliper (see Haynes
Hint).
7Check the pad thickness by looking at each
end of the caliper and through the inspection
hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is
less than the thickness listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, replace the pads. Note:Keep
in mind that the lining material is riveted or
bonded to a metal backing plate and the metal
portion is not included in this measurement.8If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the remaining pad material by the
above method, or if you are at all concerned
about the condition of the pads, remove the
caliper(s), then remove the pads from the
calipers for further inspection (see Chapter 9).
9Once the pads are removed from the
calipers, clean them with brake cleaner and
re-measure them with a ruler or a vernier
caliper.
10Measure the disc thickness with a
micrometer to make sure that it still has
service life remaining. If any disc is thinner
than the specified minimum thickness,
replace it (refer to Chapter 9). Even if the disc
has service life remaining, check its condition.
Look for scoring, gouging and burned spots. If
these conditions exist, remove the disc and
have it resurfaced (see Chapter 9).
11Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses for damage, wear,
deformation, cracks, corrosion, leakage,
bends and twists, particularly in the vicinity of
the rubber hoses at the calipers (see
illustration). Check the clamps for tightness
and the connections for leakage. Make sure
that all hoses and lines are clear of sharp
edges, moving parts and the exhaust system.
If any of the above conditions are noted,
repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or
fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9).
Hydraulic brake servo check
12Sit in the driver’s seat and perform the
following sequence of tests.
13Start the engine, run it for about a minute
and turn it off. Then firmly depress the brake
several times - the pedal travel should
decrease with each application.
14With the brake fully depressed, start the
engine - the pedal should move down a little
when the engine starts.
15Depress the brake, stop the engine and
hold the pedal in for about 30 seconds - the
pedal should neither sink nor rise.
16If your brakes do not operate as
described above when the preceding tests
are performed, the brake servo is either in
need of repair or has failed. Refer to Chapter 9
for the removal procedure.
Handbrake
17Slowly pull up on the handbrake and
count the number of clicks you hear until the
handle is up as far as it will go. The
adjustment should be within the specified
number of clicks listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. If you hear more or fewer
clicks, it’s time to adjust the handbrake (refer
to Chapter 9).
18An alternative method of checking the
handbrake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill
with the handbrake set and the transmission
in Neutral (be sure to stay in the vehicle during
this check!). If the handbrake cannot prevent
the vehicle from rolling, it is in need of
adjustment (see Chapter 9). Whenever a fault
is suspected, the brake discs should be
removed and the handbrake assemblies
themselves should be visually inspected.
12 Steering
and suspension check
2
Note: The steering linkage and suspension
components should be checked periodically.
Worn or damaged suspension and steering
linkage components can result in excessive
and abnormal tyre wear, poor ride quality and
vehicle handling and reduced fuel economy.
For detailed illustrations of the steering and
suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.
With the wheels on the ground
1Park the vehicle on level ground, turn the
engine off and set the handbrake. Check the
tyre pressures and check that the wheel nuts
are tightened to the specified torque.
2Push down at one corner of the vehicle,
then release it while noting the movement of
the body. It should stop moving and come to
rest in a level position with one or two
bounces. When bouncing the vehicle up and
down, listen for squeaks and noises from the
suspension components.
3If the vehicle continues to move up-and-
down or if it fails to return to its original
1•12Every 7500 miles or 6 months
11.11 Check along the brake hoses
and at each fitting (arrowed) for
deterioration and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
You will find an inspection hole like this
in each caliper - placing a ruler across
the hole should enable you to determine
the thickness of remaining pad material
for both inner and outer pads