roof JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Workshop Manual

2Open the door all the way and support it on
jacks or blocks covered with rags to prevent
damaging the paint.
3Remove the door trim panel and water
deflector as described in Section 18.
4Unplug all electrical connections, ground
wires and harness retaining clips from the
door. Note:It is a good idea to label all
connections to aid the reassembly process.
5From the door side, detach the rubber
conduit between the body and the door, then
carefully pull the wiring harness through the
conduit hole and remove it from the door.
6Mark around the door hinges with a pen or
a scribe to ease alignment during reassembly.
7On front doors, work through the door
access hole to remove the hinge-to-door
nuts. On rear doors the hinge-to-body bolts
are more accessible and can be removed by
simply opening the front door and removing
the bolts (see illustrations).
8Have an assistant hold the door, remove
the bolts or nuts and lift the door off.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
10Having proper door to body alignment is a
critical part of a well functioning doorassembly. First check the door hinge pins for
excessive play. Note: If the door can be lifted
(1/16-inch or more) without the car body
moving, the hinges should be replaced.
11Door-to-body alignment adjustments are
made by loosening the hinge-to-body or hinge-
to-door bolts and moving the door. Proper
body alignment is achieved when the top of
doors are parallel with the roof section, the
front door is flush with the wing, the rear door is
flush with the rear quarter panel and the
bottom of the doors are aligned with the lower
rocker panel. If these goals can’t be reached by
adjusting the hinge-to-body or hinge-to-door
bolts, body alignment shims may have to be
purchased and inserted behind the hinges to
achieve correct alignment.
12To adjust the door closed position, scribe
a line or mark around the striker plate to
provide a reference point. Check that the door
latch is contacting the centre of the latch
striker. If not, adjust the up-and-down
position first.
13Finally, adjust the latch striker position, so
the door skin is flush with the rear door (front)
or rear quarter panel (rear) and provides
positive engagement with the latch
mechanism (see illustration).
20 Door latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal and refitting
2
Door latch
1Raise the window, then remove the door
trim panel and watershield as described in
Section 18.
2Working through the large access hole,
disengage the outside door handle-to-latch
rod and the inside handle-to-latch cable (see
illustration).
3All door locking rods are attached by plastic
clips. The plastic clips can be removed by
unsnapping the portion engaging the
connecting rod and then by pulling the rod out
of its locating hole.
4Remove the screws securing the latch to
the door (see illustration), then remove the
latch assembly from the door.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Outside handle
and door lock cylinder
6To remove the outside handle and lock
cylinder assembly, raise the window then
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
11
19.13 Adjust the door lock striker by
loosening the hex nut and gently tapping
the striker in the desired direction20.2 Detach the outside handle-to-latch
rod (A), then remove the inside handle-to-
latch cable (B)20.4 Remove the latch screws (arrowed)
from the end of the door, and pull the latch
assembly through the access hole.
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.7a Work through the door access hole (arrowed) to remove
the hinge-to-door retaining nuts from inside the door
19.7b Open the front door to access the rear door hinge-to-body
bolts (arrowed)

3261 Jaguar XJ6
12
Chapter 12
Body electrical system
1 General information
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid-type battery which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor will be found in
Chapter 5.
It should be noted that when portions of the
electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the negative
battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts
and/or fires.
2 Electrical fault finding-
general information
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links, in-line fuses or
circuit breakers related to that component
and the wiring and electrical connectors that
link the component to both the battery andthe chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical
circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included
at the end of this Chapter.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time,
chances are the problem is in a fuse or earth
connection, because several circuits are often
routed through the same fuse and earth
connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the
condition of all fuses, wires and connections
in a problem circuit before diagnosing it.
If testing instruments are going to be
utilised, use the diagrams to plan ahead of
time where you will make the necessary
connections in order to accurately pinpoint
the trouble spot.
The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, which includes a
bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a
jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
incorporated, which can be used to bypasselectrical components. Before attempting to
locate a problem with test instruments,
use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to
make the connections.
Voltage checks
Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a electrical
connector in the circuit being tested,
preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the
bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present,
which means that the part of the circuit
between the electrical connector and the
battery is problem free. Continue checking the
rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When
you reach a point at which no voltage is
present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time the problem can be traced to a loose
connection. Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is in the Accessory or Run position.
Finding a short
One method of finding shorts in a circuit is
to remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring
harness from side to side while watching the
test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short Airbag system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Circuit breakers - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Direction indicators/hazard flashers - general information . . . . . . . . 7
Electric aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electric side view mirrors - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Electric sunroof - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Electric window system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel, oil and temperature gauges - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing (1992 to 1994 models) - removal and refitting . . . 19Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlights - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Horn - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Inertia switch - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
In-line fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio and speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Relays - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
12•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

actuators, a control unit and associated
wiring. Diagnosis can usually be limited to
simple checks of the wiring connections and
actuators for minor faults which can be easily
repaired. Since this system uses an electronic
control unit, in-depth diagnosis should be left
to a dealership service department.
Central locking systems are operated by bi-
directional solenoids located in the doors. The
lock switches have two operating positions;
Lock and Unlock. When activated, the switch
sends a signal to the door lock control unit to
lock or unlock the doors. Depending on which
way the switch is activated, the control unit
reverses polarity to the solenoids, allowing the
two sides of the circuit to be used alternately
as the feed (positive) and earth side.
Some vehicles may have an anti-theft
system incorporated into the locks. If you are
unable to locate the trouble using the following
general paragraphs, consult a dealer service
department or other properly equipped repair
facility.
1Always check the circuit protection first.
Some vehicles use a combination of circuit
breakers and fuses.
2Operate the door lock switches in both
directions (Lock and Unlock) with the engine off.
Listen for the click of the solenoids operating.
3Test the switches for continuity. Renew the
switch if there’s not continuity in both switch
positions.
4Check the wiring between the switches,
control unit and solenoids for continuity.
Repair the wiring if there’s no continuity.
5Check for a bad earth at the switches or the
control unit.
6If all but one lock solenoid operates,
remove the trim panel from the affected door
(see Chapter 11) and check for voltage at the
solenoid while the lock switch is operated
(see illustration). One of the wires should
have voltage in the Lock position; the other
should have voltage in the Unlock position.
7If the inoperative solenoid is receiving
voltage, renew the solenoid.
8If the inoperative solenoid isn’t receiving
voltage, check for an open or short in the wire
between the lock solenoid and the control
unit. Note:It’s common for wires to break in
the portion of the harness between the body
and door (opening and closing the door
fatigues and eventually breaks the wires).26 Electric mirrors-
description and check
2
1Most electric mirrors use two motors to
move the glass; one for up and down
adjustments and one for left-right adjustments.
2The control switch has a selector portion
which sends voltage to the left or right side
mirror. With the ignition ON but the engine
OFF, roll down the windows and operate the
mirror control switch through all functions
(left-right and up-down) for both the left and
right side mirrors.
3Listen carefully for the sound of the electric
motors running in the mirrors.
4If the motors can be heard but the mirror
glass doesn’t move, there’s probably a
problem with the drive mechanism inside the
mirror. Remove and dismantle the mirror to
locate the problem.
5If the mirrors don’t operate and no sound
comes from the mirrors, check the fuse (see
Chapter 1).
6If the fuse is OK, remove the mirror control
switch from its mounting without
disconnecting the wires attached to it. Turn
the ignition ON and check for voltage at the
switch. There should be voltage at one
terminal. If there’s no voltage at the switch,
check for an open or short in the circuit
between the fuse panel and the switch.
7If there’s voltage at the switch, disconnect
it. Check the switch for continuity in all its
operating positions. If the switch does not
have continuity, renew it.
8Re-connect the switch. Locate the wire
going from the switch to earth. Leaving the
switch connected, connect a jumper wire
between this wire and earth. If the mirror
works normally with this wire in place, repair
the faulty earth connection.
9If the mirror still doesn’t work, remove the
mirror and check the wires at the mirror for
voltage. Check with ignition ON and the mirror
selector switch on the appropriate side.
Operate the mirror switch in all its positions.
There should be voltage at one of the switch-
to-mirror wires in each switch position (except
the neutral “off” position).
10If there’s not voltage in each switch
position, check the circuit between the mirror
and control switch for opens and shorts.
11If there’s voltage, remove the mirror and
test it off the vehicle with jumper wires. Renew
the mirror if it fails this test.
27 Electric sunroof-
description and check
2
1The electric sunroof is powered by a single
motor in the roof behind the overhead console.
The power circuit is protected by a fuse.
2The control switches (tilt and slide) send an
earth signal to the sunroof motor when theswitches are pressed. Power is supplied to
the motor from the relay. With the ignition ON
but the engine OFF, operate the sunroof
control switch through the tilt and slide
functions.
3Listen carefully for the sound of the sunroof
motor running in the roof.
4If the motors can be heard but the sunroof
glass doesn’t move, there’s probably a
problem with the drive mechanism or drive
cables.
5If the sunroof does not operate and no
sound comes from the motor, check the fuse
(see Chapter 1).
6If the fuse is OK, remove the control
switches (see Chapter 11). Disconnect the
wires attached to it. Turn the ignition ON and
check for voltage at the switch. If there’s no
voltage at the switch, check for power and
earth at the motor. If power and earth exist at
the motor and there’s still no voltage at the
switch renew the motor. If there’s no voltage
at the motor, check the relay or an open or
short in the wiring between the relay and the
motor.
7If there’s voltage at the switch, disconnect
it. Check the switch for continuity in all its
operating positions. If the switch does not
have continuity, renew it.
8If the switch has continuity re-connect the
switch. Locate the wire going from the switch
to earth. Leaving the switch connected,
connect a jumper wire between this wire and
earth. If the motor works normally with this
wire in place, repair the faulty earth
connection.
9The sunroof can be closed manually by
inserting the T-handle spanner which is
located inside the overhead console. Insert
the spanner into the motor drive shaft and
rotate the shaft clockwise (see illustration).
28 Airbag system-
general information
Warning: Failure to follow these
precautions could result in
accidental deployment of the
airbag and personal injury.
12•14 Body electrical system
25.6 Check for voltage at the lock
solenoid while the lock switch is operated27.9 To close the sunroof manually, insert
the T-handle spanner in the motor shaft
and rotate it clockwise
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Dimensions and weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Conversion factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•2
Use of English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
Buying spare parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4
Vehicle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4General repair procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5
Tools and working facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•6
MOT test checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•8
Fault finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•12
Glossary of technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•18
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•22
Dimensions and weights
Note:All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturer’s data for exact figures.
Dimensions
Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4988 mm
Overall width (including mirrors) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015 mm
Overall height (unladen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1358 mm
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2870 mm
Weights
Kerb weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1770 kg
Maximum gross vehicle weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2190 kg
Maximum towing weight:
Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1500 kg
Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 kg
Maximum axle load:
Front axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1050 kg
Rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1170 kg
Maximum roof rack load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 kg
ReferenceREF•1
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
Some models are equipped with an audio
system which includes an anti-theft feature, to
deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is
cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if
the power source is immediately reconnected,
the radio/cassette unit will not function untilthe correct security code has been entered.
Therefore if you do not know the correct
security code for the unit, do notdisconnect
the battery negative lead, or remove the
radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.The procedure for reprogramming a unit
that has been disconnected from its power
supply varies from model to model - consult
the handbook supplied with the unit for
specific details or refer to your Jaguar dealer. The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing”at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands
positioned under the vehicle jacking points.
To raise the front of the vehicle, place a
block of wood on the jack head and positionthe jack underneath the centre of the front
crossmember. Lift the vehicle to the required
height and support it on axle stands
positioned underneath the vehicle jacking
points on the sills.
To raise the rear of the vehicle, place a
block of wood on the jack head and position
the jack underneath the centre of the rear
crossmember. Lift the vehicle to the required
height and support it on axle standspositioned underneath the vehicle jacking
points on the sills.
The jack supplied with the vehicle locates in
the jacking points on the sills. Ensure that the
jack head is correctly engaged before
attempting to raise the vehicle.
Neverwork under, around, or near a raised
vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.
Jacking and vehicle support

3261 Jaguar XJ6
General repair proceduresREF•5
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-
tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,
and these used as a purchase for pliers or
similar in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Tools and working facilitiesREF•7
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Stroboscopic timing light Stud extractor setCompression tester
Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)Micrometer set

3261 Jaguar XJ6
NNeutral start switch -7•5
Notes for UK readers -0•4, REF•3
Number plate light - 12•12
OObtaining diagnostic code output -6•3
Oil cooler -3•6
Oil filter -1•6
Oil gauge - 12•7
Oil pump -2A•15
Oil seals -2A•5, 2A•17, 2B•17, 7•7, 8•4, 8•5, REF•5
Oil,differential -1•2, 1•11, 1•20
Oil,engine -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•6
On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system -6•2
Open circuit check - 12•2
Output shaft -7•7
Oxygen sensor -6•4
PPads (brake) -9•1, 9•2
Painting - 11•2
Parking lights - 12•11
Piston rings -2B•15
Pistons -2B•9, 2B•12, 2B•17
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power hydraulic system -0•16
fluid - 1•9
Power steering - 10•10, 10•11
fluid - 0•13, 0•16
Propshaft -1•18, 8•1, 8•2, 8•3
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator -3•4
grille - 11•5
Radio - 12•7, REF•1
Rear lights - 12•12
Receiver/drier -3•12
Regulator (window) - 11•10
Relays - 12•3
Repair procedures - REF•5
Reversing lights -7•5, 12•12
Road test -1•14
Roadside repairs-0•6et seq
Routine maintenance and servicing-1•1et seq
Rust holes - 11•2
SSafety first -0•5
Scalding -0•5
Scratches - 11•2Screw threads and fastenings - REF•5
Seat belts -1•13, REF•9
Seats - 11•14, REF•9
Self-levelling rear suspension system - 10•3
Servo -1•12, 9•1, 9•9
Shift cable -7•4
Shock absorber - 10•4, 10•6, REF•9, REF•10
Shoes (brake) -1•20, 9•11
Short circuit check - 12•1
Side marker lights - 12•11
Spare parts - REF•4
Spark plugs -1•7, 1•14
Speakers - 12•7
Speed sensor -6•7
Spoiler - 11•5
Springs - 10•5, 10•6, REF•10
Starter motor -5•7
Steering - See Suspension and steering systems
Steering wheel and column - 11•13, 12•5, REF•8
Sump -2A•14
Sunroof - 12•14
Supplementary air valve -4•13
Suspension and steering systems- 1•12, 10•1et seq, REF•9, REF•10
fault finding - REF•16, REF•17
Switches -4•1, 7•5, 9•13, 12•5, 12•6, 12•12
TTail lights - 12•12
Temperature gauge - 12•7
Temperature sender unit -3•7
Thermostat -3•2
Throttle body -4•10
Throttle potentiometer -6•5
Tie-rod ends - 10•9
Timing chains -2A•6
Tools - REF•5, REF•6, REF•7
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston -2A•2
Torque converter -7•7
Towing -0•6
Trim panels - 11•7, 11•13
Tyres - 0•14, 10•11, REF•11
UUK readers information -0•4, REF•3
Universal joint -8•1, 8•2, 8•5
Upholstery - 11•1
VVacuum gauge checks -2B•3
Valve cover -2A•3
Valve lifters -2A•9
Valves -2B•8
Vehicle identification - REF•4, REF•9
Vehicle support - REF•1
Vinyl trim - 11•1
Voltage checks - 12•1
REF•24Index

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Almost ever y car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor
Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent ever y aspect of our motoring
heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities like
the bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports cars
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.
A Perfect Day Out
Each and ever y vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the histor y and culture of
Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring
Mum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find
an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most
extensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves ever ything from a cup of tea to
wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful
rural surroundings of Somerset.
The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048
>John Haynes O.B.E.,
Founder and
Chairman of the
museum at the wheel
of a Haynes Light 12. Cosworth Formula 1
car next to a 1934
Riley Sports.
Derham Tourster.
Only eight of these
magnificent cars were
ever built – this is the
only example to be found
outside the United
States of America
Preserving Our Motoring Heritage