front JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 1994, Model line: CHEROKEE, Model: JEEP CHEROKEE 1994Pages: 1784, PDF Size: 77.09 MB
Page 911 of 1784

(5) Remove the distributor cap and mark the posi-
tion of the rotor.
(6) Remove the distributor and ignition wires.
(7) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(8) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(9) Remove the push rods.
(10) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket.
(11) Remove the hydraulic valve tappets from the
engine cylinder head.
(12) Remove the vibration damper.
(13) Remove the timing case cover.
(14) Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
(15) Remove the front bumper and/or grille, as re-
quired.
(16) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 9).
INSPECTION
Inspect the cam lobes for wear.
Inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear pat-
tern or finish.
Inspect the bearings for wear.
Inspect the distributor drive gear for wear.
If the camshaft appears to have been rubbing
against the timing case cover, examine the oil pres-
sure relief holes in the rear cam journal. The oil
pressure relief holes must be free of debris.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the camshaft with Mopar Engine Oil
Supplement, or equivalent.
(2) Carefully install the camshaft to prevent dam-
age to the camshaft bearings (Fig. 9).
(3) Install the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket retaining preload
bolt. Tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the
spring and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.(6) Install the timing case cover with a replace-
ment oil seal (Fig. 10). Refer to Timing Case Cover
Installation.
(7) Install the vibration damper (Fig. 10).
(8) Install the hydraulic valve tappets.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head.
(10) Install the push rods.
(11) Install the rocker arms and pivot and bridge
assemblies. Tighten each of the capscrews for each
bridge alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid dam-
aging the bridge.
(12) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(13) Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to
the specified tension (refer to Group 7, Cooling Sys-
tem for the proper procedure).
(14) Rotate the crankshaft until the No.1 piston is
at the TDC position on the compression stroke.
(15) Install the distributor, cap and ignition wires.
Install the distributor so that the rotor is aligned
with the mark made during removal. The rotor
should be aligned with the No.1 cylinder spark plug
terminal on the cap when the distributor housing is
fully seated on the cylinder block.
During installation, lubricate the hydraulic
valve tappets and all valve components with Mo-
par Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. The
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent
must remain with the engine oil for at least 1 609
km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement need not be
drained until the next scheduled oil change.
(16) Install the A/C condenser and receiver/drier
assembly, if equipped (refer to Group 24, Heating
and Air Conditioning).
CAUTION: Both service valves must be opened be-
fore the air conditioning system is operated.
(17) Install the radiator, connect the hoses and fill
the cooling system to the specified level (refer to
Group 7, Cooling System for the proper procedure).
Fig. 9 Camshaft
Fig. 10 Timing Case Cover Components
9 - 70 4.0L ENGINEJ
Page 912 of 1784

(18) Check the ignition timing and adjust as nec-
essary.
(19) Install the grille and bumper, if removed.
(20) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT PIN REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the radiator. DO NOT waste reusable
coolant. Drain the coolant into a clean container.
(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gas-
ket material from the cover.
(10) Remove the thrust pin and tension spring
from the preload bolt head.
(11) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
11).
(12) Remove the camshaft sprocket preload retain-
ing bolt and washer.
(13) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(14) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(15) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.
(16) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.(17) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(18) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(19) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
bearing (smallest). This permits easier removal and
installation of the camshaft. The camshaft bearings
are pressure lubricated.
It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and instal-
lation tools are available.
Camshaft end play is maintained by the load
placed on the camshaft by the sprocket preload bolt
tension spring and thrust pin.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the camshaft pin hole.
(2) Compress the center of the replacement spring
pin with vise grips.
(3) Carefully drive the pin into the camshaft pin
hole until it is seated.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 11).
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 12. Count the
Fig. 11 Timing Chain AlignmentÐTypical
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 71
Page 913 of 1784

number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(6) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(7) Tighten the camshaft sprocket preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Check the valve timing.
(9) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the
spring and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(10) Coat both sides of the replacement timing case
cover gasket with gasket sealer. Applya3mm(1/8
inch) bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent to the joint formed at the oil pan
and cylinder block.
(11) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
(12) Place Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139 in the crankshaft opening in
the cover (Fig. 13).
(13) Install the timing case cover-to-cylinder block
bolts. Install the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts.
(14) Tighten the 1/4 inch cover-to-block bolts to 7
Nzm (60 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch front
cover-to-block bolts to 22 Nzm (192 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 1/4 inch bolts to 14 Nzm
(120 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 5/16
inch bolts to 18 Nzm (156 in. lbs.) torque.
(15) Remove the cover alignment tool and install a
replacement oil seal into the cover.
(16) Install the vibration damper on the crank-
shaft.(17) Lubricate and tighten the damper bolt to 108
Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(18) If equipped with air conditioning:
(a) Install the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Install the generator.
(c) Install the A/C condenser and receiver/drier
assembly.
(19) Install the serpentine drive belt on the pulleys
and tighten (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for the
specifications and procedures).
(20) Install the radiator. Connect the radiator
hoses and automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes,
if equipped. Fill the cooling system.
(21) Install the fan and shroud.
(22) Connect negative cable to battery.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor.
(7) Remove the engine flywheel/transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
Fig. 12 Verify Crankshaft/Camshaft
InstallationÐTypical
Fig. 13 Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139
9 - 72 4.0L ENGINEJ
Page 916 of 1784

INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
ings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fa-
tigue and pitting (Fig. 5). Replace any bearing that
shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.CONNECTING RODS
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause ab-
normal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls,
connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting
rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of
these components indicate the probability of a mis-
aligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
BEARING-TO-JOURNAL CLEARANCE
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Use short rubber hose sections over rod bolts
during installation.
(3) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(4) Use piston ring compressor to install the rod
and piston assemblies. The oil squirt holes in the
rods must face the camshaft. The arrow on the piston
crown should point to the front of the engine (Fig. 6).
Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods face the
camshaft and that the arrows on the pistons face the
front of the engine.
(5) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(6) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten nuts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.)
torque. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(7) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 7). Refer to En-
gine Specifications for the proper clearance.Plasti-
gage should indicate the same clearance across
the entire width of the insert. If the clearance
varies, it may be caused by either a tapered
Fig. 3 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
Fig. 4 Locking Tab Inspection
Fig. 5 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication or
by Damaged Crankshaft Pin Journal
Fig. 6 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 75
Page 921 of 1784

CAUTION: Ensure that connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose slipped over the
connecting rod bolts will provide protection during
installation.
(3) Use a piston ring compressor to install the con-
necting rod and piston assemblies through the top of
the cylinder bores (Fig. 18).
(4) Ensure the arrow on the piston top points to
the front of the engine (Fig. 18).
(5) Raise the vehicle.
Each bearing insert is fitted to its respective jour-
nal to obtain the specified clearance between the
bearing and the journal. In production, the select fit
is obtained by using various-sized, color-coded bear-
ing inserts as listed in the Connecting Rod Bearing
Fitting Chart. The color code appears on the edge of
the bearing insert. The size is not stamped on inserts
used for production of engines.
The rod journal is identified during the engine pro-
duction by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek or counterweight toward the flange (rear) end
of the crankshaft. The color codes used to indicate
journal sizes are listed in the Connecting Rod Bear-
ing Fitting Chart.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair (refer to Con-
necting Rod Bearing Fitting Chart). A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce clearance
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).
CAUTION: DO NOT intermix bearing caps. Each
connecting rod and bearing cap are stamped with
the cylinder number. The stamp is located on a ma-
chined surface adjacent to the oil squirt hole that
faces the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
(6) Install the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts in the same positions as removed.CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(7) Install the oil pan and gaskets as outlined in
the installation procedure.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head, push rods,
rocker arms, bridges, pivots and engine cylinder head
cover.
(10) Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan and oil pump.
(5) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 1).
(6) Remove the lower insert from the bearing cap.
(7) Remove the upper insert by LOOSENING (DO
NOT REMOVE) all of the other bearing caps. Now
insert a small cotter pin tool in the crankshaft jour-
nal oil hole. Bend the cotter pin as illustrated to fab-
ricate the tool (Fig. 2). With the cotter pin tool in
place, rotate the crankshaft so that the upper bear-
ing insert will rotate in the direction of its locking
tab. Because there is no hole in the No.3 main jour-
nal, use a tongue depressor or similar soft-faced tool
to remove the bearing insert (Fig. 2). After moving
Fig. 18 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
Fig. 1 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower
Inserts
9 - 80 4.0L ENGINEJ
Page 922 of 1784

the insert approximately 25 mm (1 inch), it can be
removed by applying pressure under the tab.
(8) Using the same procedure described above, re-
move the remaining bearing inserts one at a time for
inspection.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 3).
If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
remove the engine for crankshaft repair.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
FITTING (CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED)
The main bearing caps, numbered (front to rear)
from 1 through 7 have an arrow to indicate the for-
ward position. The upper main bearing inserts are
grooved to provide oil channels while the lower in-
serts are smooth.
Each bearing insert pair is selectively fitted to its
respective journal to obtain the specified operating
clearance. In production, the select fit is obtained by
using various-sized color-coded bearing insert pairs
as listed in the Main Bearing Fitting Chart. The
bearing color code appears on the edge of the insert.
The size is not stamped on bearing inserts used
for engine production.
The main bearing journal size (diameter) is identi-
fied by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek. The rear main journal, is identified by a color-
coded paint mark on the crankshaft rear flange.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair. A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce the clear-
ance by 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).Never use a pair
of bearing inserts with greater than a 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) difference in size (Fig. 4).
When replacing inserts, the odd size inserts
must be either all on the top (in cylinder block)
or all on the bottom (in main bearing cap).
Once the bearings have been properly fitted, pro-
ceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
BEARING-TO-JOURNAL CLEARANCE (CRANKSHAFT
INSTALLED)
When using Plastigage, check only one bearing
clearance at a time.
Install the grooved main bearings into the cylinder
block and the non-grooved bearings into the bearing
caps.
Install the crankshaft into the upper bearings dry.
Place a strip of Plastigage across full width of the
crankshaft journal to be checked.
Install the bearing cap and tighten the bolts to 108
Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 2 Removing Upper Inserts
Fig. 3 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
Fig. 4 Bearing Insert Pairs
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 81
Page 923 of 1784

DO NOT rotate the crankshaft. This will cause
the Plastigage to shift, resulting in an inaccurate
reading. Plastigage must not be permitted to
crumble. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
Remove the bearing cap. Determine the amount of
clearance by measuring the width of the compressed
Plastigage with the scale on the Plastigage envelope
(Fig. 5). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper
clearance.
Plastigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If clearance var-
ies, it may indicate a tapered journal or foreign ma-
terial trapped behind the insert.
If the specified clearance is indicated and there are
no abnormal wear patterns, replacement of the bear-
ing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage
from the crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Pro-
ceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
If the clearance exceeds specification, install a pair
of 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) undersize bearing inserts
and measure the clearance as described in the previ-
ous steps.
The clearance indicated with the 0.025 mm (0.001
inch) undersize insert pair installed will determine if
this insert size or some other combination will pro-
vide the specified clearance.
FOR EXAMPLE:If the clearance was 0.0762 mm
(0.003 inch) originally, a pair of 0.0254 mm (0.001
inch) undersize inserts would reduce the clearance by
0.0254 mm (0.001 inch). The clearance would then be
0.0508 mm (0.002 inch) and within the specification.
A 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize bearing insert
and a 0.0254 mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert would
reduce the original clearance an additional 0.0127
mm (0.0005 inch). The clearance would then be
0.0381 mm (0.0015 inch).
CAUTION: Never use a pair of inserts that differ
more than one bearing size as a pair.FOR EXAMPLE:DO NOT use a standard size up-
per insert and a 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize
lower insert.
If the clearance exceeds specification using a pair
of 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize bearing inserts,
measure crankshaft journal diameter with a mi-
crometer. If the journal diameter is correct, the
crankshaft bore in the cylinder block may be mis-
aligned, which requires cylinder block replacement
or machining to true bore.
Replace the crankshaft or grind to accept the ap-
propriate undersize bearing inserts if:
²Journal diameters 1 through 6 are less than
63.4517 mm (2.4981 inches)
²Journal 7 diameter is less than 63.4365 mm
(2.4975 inches).
Once the proper clearances have been obtained,
proceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT
REMOVED)
Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block (re-
fer to Cylinder Block - Disassemble).
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper and out of round is
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch). Compare the measured di-
ameter with the journal diameter specification (Main
Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to ob-
tain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block (refer
to Cylinder Block - Assemble and Crankshaft Main
Bearings - Installation).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the bearing surface of each insert
with engine oil.
(2) Loosen all the main bearing caps. Install the
main bearing upper inserts.
(3) Install the lower bearing inserts into the main
bearing caps.
(4) Install the main bearing cap(s) and lower in-
sert(s).
(5) Tighten the bolts of caps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, and 7 to
54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Now tighten these bolts to
95 Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Finally, tighten these
bolts to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Push the crankshaft forward and backward.
Load the crankshaft front or rear and tighten cap
bolt No.3 to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Then tighten
to 95 Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque and finally tighten to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Rotate the crankshaft after tightening each
main bearing cap to ensure the crankshaft rotates
freely.
Fig. 5 Measuring Bearing Clearance with Plastigage
9 - 82 4.0L ENGINEJ
Page 925 of 1784

(8) Check crankshaft end play. Crankshaft end
play is controlled by the thrust bearing which is
flange and installed at the No.2 main bearing posi-
tion.
(a) Attach a magnetic base dial indicator to the
cylinder block at either the front or rear of the en-
gine.
(b) Position the dial indicator rod so that it is
parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.
(c) Pry the crankshaft forward, position the dial
indicator to zero.
(d) Pry the crankshaft forward and backward.
Note the dial indicator readings. End play is the
difference between the high and low measurements
(Fig. 6). Correct end play is 0.038-0.165 mm
(0.0015-0.0065 inch). The desired specifications are
0.051-0.064 mm (0.002-0.0025 inch).
(e) If end play is not within specification, inspect
crankshaft thrust faces for wear. If no wear is ap-
parent, replace the thrust bearing and measure end
play. If end play is still not within specification, re-
place the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft was removed, install the crank-
shaft into the cylinder block (refer to Cylinder Block -
Assemble).
(9) Install the oil pan.
(10) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that ef-fectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap (No.7).
(4) Push the upper seal out of the groove. Ensure
that the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
(5) Remove the lower half of the seal from the
bearing cap.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft
until it is clean.
(2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil.
(4) Carefully position the upper seal into the
groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces
toward the front of the engine.
(5) Place the lower half of the seal into bearing cap
No.7 (Fig. 7).
(6) Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal
with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil (Fig.
7).
(7) Position the lower seal into the bearing cap re-
cess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush with
the cylinder block pan rail.
(8) Apply Loctite 515, or equivalent on the rear
bearing cap (Fig. 8). The bead should be 3 mm (0.125
in) thick. DO NOT apply Loctite 515, or equivalent
to the lip of the seal.
Fig. 7 Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Fig. 6 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
9 - 84 4.0L ENGINEJ
Page 926 of 1784

(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 Nzm (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.
(12) Install the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder
block.
(3) Remove the vibration damper.
(4) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(5) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(6) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(8) Remove the camshaft.
(9) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(10) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(11) Remove the oil pump.
(12) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(13) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs.
Tighten the plugs to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTIONÐCYLINDER BORE
(1) Use a bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore
diameter (Fig. 9). If a bore gauge is not available,
use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(3) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller di-
ameter from the larger diameter.
(4) Rotate measuring device 120É and repeat steps
above. Finally, rotate the device another 120É and re-
peat measurements.
(5) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each 120É measurement.
(6) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed
0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be
honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out-of-round con-
dition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
must be bored and then honed to accept an oversize
Fig. 8 Location of Loctite 515 (or equivalent)
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Measurement
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 85
Page 936 of 1784

CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the clamp from the catalytic converter
and muffler connection (Fig. 6). Remove the clamp
from the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe connec-
tion (Figs. 3 and 5).
(3) Heat the catalytic converter connections with
an oxyacetylene torch until the metal becomes cherry
red.
(4) While the metal is still cherry red, twist the
muffler assembly back and forth to separate it from
the catalytic converter.
(5) While the metal is still cherry red, disconnect
the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter (Figs. 3
and 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the catalytic converter to the exhaust
pipe (Figs. 3 and 5). Use a new clamp and tighten
the nuts to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
until the alignment tab is inserted into the align-
ment slot.
(3) Install a new clamp at the muffler and cata-
lytic converter connection (Fig. 6). Tighten the clamp
nuts to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and exhaust system contact with the body panels.
Adjust the alignment, if needed.
MUFFLER AND EXHAUST TAILPIPEÐXJ VEHICLES
All original equipment exhaust systems are manu-
factured with the exhaust tailpipe welded to the muf-
fler. Service replacement mufflers and exhaust
tailpipes are either clamped together or welded to-
gether.
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front muffler clamp from the cata-
lytic converter and muffler connection (Fig. 6).
(3) Remove the rear exhaust tailpipe hanger clamp
(Fig. 7) and remove the exhaust tailpipe from the
front exhaust tailpipe hanger (Fig. 8).
(4) Heat the catalytic converter-to-muffler connec-
tion with an oxyacetylene torch until the metal be-
comes cherry red.
(5) While the metal is still cherry red, remove the
exhaust tailpipe/muffler assembly from the catalytic
converter.
(6) Remove the exhaust tailpipe from the muffler:
²To remove an original equipment exhaust tailpipe/
muffler combination, cut the exhaust tailpipe close to
the muffler. Collapse the part remaining in the muf-
fler and remove.
²To remove a service exhaust tailpipe/muffler com-
bination, apply heat until the metal becomes cherry
Fig. 6 Catalytic Converter-to-Muffler Connection
Fig. 7 Rear Exhaust Tailpipe Hanger Clamp
JEXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 5