lock JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service Workshop Manual

(12) Raise the vehicle.
(13) Install cable-to-frame retaining clip.
(14) Insert cable in equalizer and install equalizer
washer and nuts.
(15) Adjust parking brakes as described in Service
Adjustment section.
PARKING BRAKE REAR CABLE REPLACEMENT (YJ)
(1) Raise vehicle and loosen equalizer nuts (Fig.
15).
(2) Remove clamp and cotter pin attaching rear ca-
ble to equalizer and remove cable.
(3) Remove cable clips.
(4) Remove rear wheel and brake drum.
(5) Remove secondary brakeshoe and disconnect
cable from lever on brakeshoe.
(6) Compress cable retainer with hose clamp (Fig.
14) and remove cable from backing plate.
(7) Install new cable in backing plate. Be sure ca-
ble retainer lock tabs are engaged in plate.
(8) Install secondary brakeshoe.
(9) Adjust brakeshoes to brake drum and install
drum and wheel.
(10) Install cable in equalizer. Secure cable with
retainer and cotter pin.
(11) Install cable clips.
(12) Adjust parking brakes. Refer to procedure in
this section.
PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (XJ/YJ)
Parking brake adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been re-
placed or disconnected for service. When adjust-
ment is necessary, perform adjustment only as
described in the following procedure. This is
necessary to avoid faulty parking brake opera-
tion.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Back off tensioner adjusting nut to create slack
in cables.
(3) Remove rear wheel/tire assemblies and remove
brake drums.
(4) Check rear brakeshoe adjustment with stan-
dard brake gauge. Also check condition of brake
parts as follows:
(a) Replace worn parts if necessary.Excessive
shoe-to-drum clearance, or worn brake compo-
nents will result in faulty parking brake ad-
justment and operation.
(b) Verify that parking brake cables operate
freely and are not binding, or seized. Replace faulty
cables, before proceeding.
(c) Adjust rear brakeshoes shoes to drum.
(5) Reinstall brake drums and wheel/tire assem-
blies after brakeshoe adjustment is complete.
Fig. 15 Parking Brake Cables (YJ)
JPARKING BRAKES 5 - 63

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus-
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly-
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indi-
cator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.
Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching
bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks
in the area of the attaching bolt holes.
Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheel
is replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on the replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
²142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
²68 Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) plus an additional turn of 60É
for 4-cylinder flywheels
Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear.If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom-
mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, a replacement ring gear can be installed. How-
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han-
dling a heated ring gear.
(c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-
off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch.(d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it.The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important.
Every surface of the gear must be heated at the
same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven
or similar enclosed heating device must be used.
Temperature required for uniform expansion is ap-
proximately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to re-
move the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as necessary
for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down
before installation. Set the assembly on a work-
bench and let it cool in normal shop air.
CAUTION: Do not use water, or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air can distort, or crack the
gear and flywheel.
6 - 16 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
page page
DIAGNOSIS............................. 4
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS........ 31
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER................. 37GENERAL INFORMATION.................. 1
SERVICE PROCEDURES................... 9
SPECIFICATIONS....................... 38
GENERAL INFORMATION
Throughout this group, references are made to par-
ticular vehicle models by alphabetical designation
(XJ or YJ) or by the particular vehicle nameplate. A
chart showing a breakdown of alphabetical designa-
tions is included in the Introduction section at the
beginning of this manual.
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible, maintains
normal operating temperature and prevents over-
heating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
An optional factory installed heavy duty cooling
package is available on most models. The package
consists of a radiator that has an increased numberof cooling fins. XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6 cyl-
inder engine and heavy duty cooling and/or air con-
ditioning also have an auxiliary electric cooling fan.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Cooling fan (mechanical and/or electrical)
²Thermal viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an auto-
matic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
SYSTEM COOLANT ROUTING
For cooling system flow routings, refer to Figs. 1, 2,
3or4.
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1

SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Coolant................................ 15
Coolant Reserve/Overflow System............ 19
Cooling System Cleaning/Reverse Flushing..... 17
Cooling System Fans..................... 26
Cooling System Hoses.................... 26
Draining Cooling System................... 16
Radiator Pressure Cap.................... 20
Radiators............................... 22Refilling Cooling System................... 17
Testing Cooling System for Leaks............ 18
Thermostat............................. 13
Transmission Oil Coolers................... 29
Water Pump Tests........................ 9
Water PumpsÐGeneral Information............ 9
Water PumpsÐRemoval/Installation........... 10
WATER PUMPSÐGENERAL INFORMATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
drive belt on all engines.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has a small hole to allow seep-
age to escape. The water pump seals are lubricated
by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No addi-
tional lubrication is necessary.
CAUTION: All engines are equipped with a reverse
(counter-clockwise) rotating water pump and vis-
cous fan drive assembly. REVERSE is stamped or
imprinted on the cover of the viscous fan drive and
inner side of the fan. The letter R is stamped into
the back of the water pump impeller (Fig. 1).Engines from previous model years, depending
upon application, may have been equipped with a
forward (clockwise) rotating water pump. Installation
of the wrong water pump will cause engine overheat-
ing.
A quick test to determine if the pump is working is
to check if the heater warms properly. A defective
water pump will not be able to circulate heated cool-
ant through the long heater hose to the heater core.
WATER PUMP TESTS
LOOSE IMPELLER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Loosen the fan belt(s).
(3) Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the
water pump.
(4) Bend a stiff clothes hanger or welding rod as
shown in (Fig. 2).
(5) Position the rod in the water pump inlet and
attempt to hold the impeller while turning the fan
blades. If equipped with a viscous fan drive, turn the
water pump shaft with a breaker bar and socket at-
tached to a mounting flange nut. If the impeller is
loose and can be held with the rod while the fan
blades are turning, the pump is defective. If the im-
peller turns, the pump is OK.
Connect the hose and install the coolant, or proceed
with repairs.
INSPECTING FOR INLET RESTRICTIONS
Inadequate heater performance may be caused by a
metal casting restriction in the water pump heater
hose inlet.Fig. 1 Reverse Rotating Water PumpÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 9

DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to de-
crease the level below the water pump heater hose
inlet.
(2) Remove the heater hose.
(3) Inspect the inlet for metal casting flash or
other restrictions.
Remove the pump from engine before remov-
ing restriction to prevent contamination of the
coolant with debris. Refer to Water Pump Re-
moval.
WATER PUMPSÐREMOVAL/INSTALLATION
REMOVALÐALL MODELS
The water pump on all models can be removed
without discharging the air conditioning system (if
equipped).
CAUTION: All engines have a reverse (counter-
clockwise) rotating water pump. The letter R is
stamped into the back of the water pump impeller
(Fig. 1) to identify. Engines from previous model
years, depending upon application, may be
equipped with a forward (clockwise) rotating water
pump. Installation of the wrong water pump will
cause engine over heating.The water pump impeller is pressed on the rear of
the pump shaft and bearing assembly. The water
pump is serviced only as a complete assembly.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE BLOCK DRAIN
PLUG(S) OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for re-
use.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining
Cooling System in this group.
(3)XJ models with 4.0L engine equipped with
A/C or heavy duty cooling system:
Loosen (but do not remove at this time) the four
water pump pulley-to-water pump hub mounting
bolts (Fig. 3).
XJ models with 4.0L engine without A/C or
heavy duty cooling system; or any 2.5L engines;
or any YJ models:
Loosen (but do not remove at this time) the four
fan hub-to-water pump pulley mounting nuts (Fig.
4).
The engine accessory drive belt must be removed
prior to removing the fan (if installed at pump) or
fan pulley.
(4) Remove engine drive belt as follows:
(a) Loosen two rear power steering pump mount-
ing bolts A (Fig. 5).
(b) Loosen upper pump pivot bolt B and lower
lock nut C (Figs. 6 or 7).
(c) Loosen pump adjusting bolt D (Fig. 5) until
belt can be removed.
(d) Remove belt.
(5) Check condition of all pulleys.
(6) The power steering pump must be removed
from its cast mounting bracket to gain access to bolt
Fig. 2 Impeller TestÐTypical
Fig. 3 Water Pump Pulley Bolts
7 - 10 COOLING SYSTEMJ

E. Bracket mounting bolt E is located behind the
power steering pump (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove two bolts A (Fig. 5).
(8) Remove locknut C and belt adjustment bolt D
(Figs. 6 or 7).
(9) Remove bolt B (Fig. 6). Position power steering
pump to the side. Hold pump in position with wire.
Do not disconnect hydraulic lines from pump.
(10) Remove bolts E, F and G (Fig. 7) and remove
pump mounting bracket.(11) Remove idler pulley mounting bolt and re-
move idler pulley. This must be done to gain clear-
ance for the water pump mounted heater hose fitting
when water pump is being removed. Note position of
pulley spacers after removal.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUM-
BER 6094) (FIG. 8). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUM-
BER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER
CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES
WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Fig. 4 Fan Mounting Nuts
Fig. 5 P.S. Pump Rear Mounting BoltsÐTypical
Fig. 6 P.S. Pump Front Mounting
Bolt/LocknutÐTypical
Fig. 7 Bracket Mounting BoltsÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 11

CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.
(12) Remove lower radiator hose from water pump.
Remove heater hose from water pump fitting.
(13) Remove four nuts or bolts (refer to the previ-
ous step #3).
(14) Remove the fan assembly and pulley (if fan is
installed at pump), or remove the pulley from the ve-
hicle.
(15) Remove the four pump mounting bolts (Fig. 9)
and remove pump from vehicle. Discard old gasket.
Note that one of the four bolts is longer than the
other bolts.
(16) If pump is to be replaced, the heater hose fit-
ting must be removed. Note position of fitting before
removal.
INSTALLATIONÐALL MODELS
(1) If pump is being replaced, install the heater
hose fitting to the pump. Use a sealant on the fitting
such as MoparŸ Thread Sealant With Teflon. Refer
to the directions on the package.
(2) Clean the gasket mating surfaces. If the origi-
nal pump is used, remove any deposits or other for-
eign material. Inspect the cylinder block and water
pump mating surfaces for erosion or damage from
cavitation.
(3) Install the gasket and water pump (the gasket
is installed dry). Tighten mounting bolts to 30 Nzm
(22 ft. lbs.) torque. Rotate the shaft by hand to be
sure it turns freely.
(4) Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the
water pump.
(5) Position water pump pulley to water pump hub.
(6) If equipped with a water pump mounted fan,
install fan and four nuts to water pump hub. If notequipped with a water pump mounted fan, install
four pump hub bolts. Tighten bolts (or nuts) to 27
Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position power steering pump bracket to en-
gine. Install bolts E, F and G (Fig. 7). Tighten bolts
FandGto38Nzm (28 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten bolt E
to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Position power steering pump to mounting
bracket. Install pivot bolt B (Fig. 6) finger tight. In-
stall locknut C and adjustment bolt D (Figs. 6 or 7)
finger tight.
(9) Install two adjustment bolts A (Fig. 6) finger
tight.
(10) Install idler pulley.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine engine
accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed cor-
rectly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the
water pump rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to
Figs. 10, 11, 12 or 13 for appropriate belt routing.
You may also refer to the Belt Routing Label in the ve-
hicle engine compartment.
(11) Position drive belt to pulleys.
(12) Tighten belt adjustment bolt D (Fig. 5) to the
proper tension. Refer to the Specifications section at
the end of this group for belt tension.
(13) Tighten bolts A (Fig. 5) to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
Fig. 8 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 9 Water Pump Remove/InstallÐTypical
7 - 12 COOLING SYSTEMJ

(14) Tighten pivot bolt B (Fig. 6) to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(15) Tighten locknut C (Fig. 6) to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(16) After the power steering pump has been tight-
ened, recheck belt tension.
(17) Fill cooling system with coolant and check for
leaks. Refer to Refilling Cooling System in this
group.
(18) Connect battery cable to battery.
(19) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
THERMOSTAT
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
A pellet-type thermostat controls the operating
temperature of the engine by controlling the amount
of coolant flow to the radiator. On all engines the
thermostat is closed below 195ÉF (90ÉC). Above this
temperature, coolant is allowed to flow to the radia-
tor. This provides quick engine warmup and overall
temperature control.
An arrow plus the wordUPis stamped on the
front flange next to the air bleed. The wordsTO
RADare stamped on one arm of the thermostat.
They indicate the proper installed position.
The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat causes other prob-
lems. These are: longer engine warmup time, unreli-
able warmup performance, increased exhaust
emissions and crankcase condensation. This conden-
sation can result in sludge formation.
Fig. 10 YJ Models with 4.0L Engine and XJ Models
with 2.5L EngineÐWith A/C
Fig. 11 YJ Models With 2.5L or 4.0L Engine and XJ
Models with 2.5L EngineÐWithout A/C
Fig. 12 XJ Models with 4.0L EngineÐWithout A/C
Fig. 13 XJ Models With 4.0L EngineÐWith A/C
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13

ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANTÐROUTINE
Do not remove radiator cap to add coolant to
system.When adding coolant to maintain correct
level, do so at coolant reserve/overflow tank. Use a
50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze contain-
ing Alugard 340-2 Ÿ and low mineral content water.
Remove radiator cap only for testing or when refill-
ing system after service. Removing cap unnecessarily
can cause loss of coolant and allow air to enter sys-
tem, which produces corrosion.
COOLANT LEVEL CHECK-SERVICE
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to top of radiator.
WARNING: DO NOT OPEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH ENGINE RUNNING OR WHILE ENGINE IS HOT
AND COOLING SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
When vehicle servicing requires a coolant level
check in radiator, drain several ounces of coolant
from radiator drain cock. Do this while observing
coolant reserve/overflow system tank. The coolant
level in reserve/overflow tank should drop slightly. If
not, inspect for a leak between radiator and coolant
reserve/overflow system connection. Remove radiator
cap. The coolant level should be to top of radiator. If
not and if coolant level in reserve/overflow tank is at
ADD mark, check for:
²An air leak in coolant reserve/overflow tank or its
hose
²An air leak in radiator filler neck
²Leak in pressure cap seal to radiator filler neck
LOW COOLANT LEVEL-AERATION
If the coolant level in radiator drops below top of
radiator core tubes, air will enter cooling system.
Low coolant level can cause thermostat pellet to be
suspended in air instead of coolant. This will cause
thermostat to open later, which in turn causes higher
coolant temperature. Air trapped in cooling system
also reduces amount of coolant circulating in heater
core resulting in low heat output.
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any re-
moved air.
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM
ALL MODELSÐEXCEPT XJ WITH 4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
DO NOT remove the radiator cap when draining
the coolant from the reserve/overflow tank. Open the
radiator draincock and when the tank is empty, re-
move the radiator cap. The coolant does not have to
be removed from the tank unless the system is being
refilled with a fresh mixture.
(1) Drain the coolant from the radiator by loosen-
ing the draincock.
(2) Drain coolant from engine as follows:
(a) On 2.5L engines (all models) by removing
drain plug at left rear side of block.
(b) On 4.0L engines by removing the drain plug
or coolant temperature sensor on the left side of
the block (Fig. 17).
XJ MODELS WITH 4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Fig. 17 Draining CoolantÐ4.0L Engine
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEMJ