drain bolt JEEP CJ 1953 User Guide
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Page 81 of 376

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
Dl
13296
FIG.
Dl-5—ENGINE
LUBRICATION
AND
COOLING
PARTS
1— Bolt and
Lock
Washer
2—
Fan
Assembly
3—
Fan
and Alternator Belt
4—
Fan
Driven Pulley 5— Water Pump Assembly
6—
Hose
Clamp 7— Thermostat Bypass
Hose
8—Hex
Head Bolt
9— Water Outlet Elbow
10— Water Outlet Elbow Gasket
11— Thermostat
12— Water Pump Gasket
13— Impeller and Insert, Water Pump
14— Water Pump Seal 15— Dowel Pin % x Vfc"
16— Water Pump Cover
17— Bolt,
1/4-20
x 1"
18— Water Pump Shaft and Bearing
19—
Fan
Hub
20—
-Oil
Suction Pipe Gasket
21—
Oil
Suction Housing, Pipe and Flange
22— Bolt,
y4-20
x s/8"
23—
Oil
Pump Screen
24—
Oil
Dipstick
25—
Oil
Pan Gasket
26—
Oil
Pan Assembly
27—
Drain
Plug Gasket
28—
Drain
Plug 29— Screw and
Lock
Washer #6-18 x %
30—
Oil
Pump Shaft and Gear
31—
Oil
Pump Cover Gasket
32— Valve Bypass and Cover Assembly
33—
Oil
Pressure Valve 34— Valve Bypass Spring
35—
Oil
Pressure Valve Cap Gasket
36—
Oil
Pressure Valve Cap
37— Screw V4-20 x lVg"
38— Screw 1/4-20 x 1W' 39—
Fan
Driving Pulley
40— Hex. Head Bolt, x 1"
Dl-13.
Remove
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper
Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove cap screw and flat washer which attach
crankshaft
vibration damper to crankshaft. Tap
vibration
damper with a soft-headed hammer to remove it from crankshaft.
Dl-19.
Remove Oil Pump
Remove five screws, oil pump cover, and gasket
from
right side of timing chain cover. Remove
two oil pump gears.
D1-20.
Remove Timing Chain Cover
Refer
to Fig. Dl-6. Remove two
bolts
which attach oil pan to timing
chain
cover. Remove five mounting bolts, timing
chain
cover, and gasket from cylinder block of
engine.
Note:
Water pump must be removed from timing
chain
cover before timing chain cover is removed
from
cylinder block.
Dl-21.
Remove Crankshaft Front
Oil
Seal
Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.
Use timing cover aligner and oil seal remover
tool
J-22248 to remove oil seal.
Dl-22.
Remove Timing Chain
and
Spocket
a.
Temporarily install vibration damper (Fig.
Dl-6)
bolt and washer in end of crankshaft.
Turn
crankshaft
so sprockets are positioned with index
marks
aligned as shown in Fig. Dl-7.
This
will
make it easier to install parts. Remove vibration
damper bolt and washer; rap the wrench handle
sharply
to start the bolt without changing position
of sprockets.
Note:
It is not necessary to remove timing chain
dampers unless they are worn or damaged and
require
replacement.
b. Remove front crankshaft oil slinger.
c. Remove bolt and special washer which retain
camshaft distributor drive gear and fuel pump
eccentric at forward end of camshaft. Remove gear
and
eccentric from camshaft. 81
Page 90 of 376

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss
on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cylÂ
inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all conÂnecting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.
Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning
a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clogÂ
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign
material.
b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in solÂ
vent; dry with compressed air.
c.
Install
screen in housing.
Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection
Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.
Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection
Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;
dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for
burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is deÂ
scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,
nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and posÂ
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,
seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.
Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement
a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then
split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of flyÂ
wheel.
b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be
installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become
blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].
Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will
destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.
c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered
edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated propÂ
erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will
be held tightly in place.
Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection
Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a flyÂ
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as
front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection
Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces
with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with comÂ
pressed air.
Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.
The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to
proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equipÂ
ment, the original bearings should be retained unÂ
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored camÂ
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance
between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].
Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively
worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.
b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as deÂ
scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean
and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate
properly.
c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with
a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of
a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.
d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.
e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated
during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve
lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contaminaÂ
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit reÂ
moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90
Page 132 of 376

FUEL
SYSTEM
14417
FIG.
E-35—ACCELERATOR LINKAGE—V-6 ENGINE
1— Lever
Assembly
2—
Choke
Rod
3—
-Accelerator
Rod (Upper) 4—
Choke
Control Cable
E-72.
Fuel
Tank
The
fuel tank on early model 'Jeep* Universal vehicles has a capacity of 10}4 gals. [38,75 ltr.] and
is mounted under the driver's seat. The tank is
secured to the front floor panel by a hold down
strap
and two bolts.
The
fuel tank on all late model 'Jeep* vehicles has a
capacity of 16 gal. [60,56 ltr.] and is mounted to
three frame
rail
brackets at the
rear
and center of
the frame. The tank is secured to the brackets by
three
bolts
and six rubber shock insulators. A fuel
tank
skid plate is attached to the
rear
frame cross- member to protect the
bottom
of the tank from damage.
E-73.
Fuel
Tank
Removal
When
removing the fuel tank on early model vehicles, first drain the tank of
all
fuel. Remove the
driver's
seat, then remove the tank hold down
straps.
Disconnect fuel line(s) and sending unit 5—
Accelerator
Mounting Bracket
6—
-Accelerator
Boot
7—
Accelerator
Rod
(Lower)
8—
Accelerator
Treadle
wire
from the tank. Remove the filler neck rubber
grommet and remove the tank assembly from the vehicle.
When
removing the fuel tank, on late model vehicles first
drain
the tank of
all
fuel, then remove
the fuel tank skid plate. Loosen the filler neck and vent tube
hose
clamp and disconnect
hoses
from fuel tank. Remove the three mounting
bolts
and six
washers and rubber insulators that secure the tank to the frame brackets. Loosen frame brackets to
give
clearance for tank removal.
Lower
tank
slightly allowing space for disconnecting fuel and vent lines and sending unit wire from tank.
Lower
tank
and remove from underside of vehicle.
E-74.
Fuel Tank Installation
Note:
On vehicles equipped with the Dauntless
V-6
engine
two luel lines are connected to the fuel
tank;
a fuel out line and a fuel return line. It is im- 132
Page 145 of 376

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
Fl
b. Connect tachometer to
engine.
c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.
d.
Adjust
engine
idle to
speed
desired, using throtÂ
tle idle
speed
adjusting screw.
e.
Carburetors without Idle
Limiter
Cap turn idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a
loss
of
engine
speed
is indicated; then, slowly turn mixÂ
ture screw in (clockwise-leaner) until maximum
speed
(RPM) is reached. Continue turning in (clockwise) until
speed
begins
to drop; turn mixture
adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer) unÂ
til
maximum
speed
is just regained at a "lean as
possible" mixture adjustment.
Fl-14.
Distributor
Check
the distributor number for proper appliÂ
cation.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and
point condition and adjust to specifications or re place as required. (Specifications listed at the end
of this section)
Check
ignition timing and set at
0°
or
TDC.
Fl-15.
Anti-iackfire
Diverter Valve
The
anti-backfire valve remains closed
except
when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an
open
position.
To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to
close
rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
Which
connects to the check valve.
Accelerate the
engine
to allow the throttle to
close
rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily if a
momentary interruption of rushing air is audible.
Fl-16.
Check Valve
The
check valve prevents the reverse flow of exÂ
haust
gases
to the pump in the
event
the pump
should, for any reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust pressure ever
exceed
pump pressure.
To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the
distriÂ
bution manifold.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust leakage at the check valve which is
connected to the distribution manifold.
Fl-17.
Air
Pump
Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be
50-60
pounds on a belt with previous service, measÂ
ured
on the
longest
accessible span
between
two pulleys. When installing a new belt, adjust the
tension to
60-80
pounds tension. DO NOT PRY
ON
THE DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING.
To
check the pump for proper operation, remove the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine
running,
air discharge should be
felt
at the pump
outlet
opening. The pump
outlet
air pressure, as determined by the relief valve, is preset and is not
adjustable.
The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the presÂ
sure relief valve are the only pump
components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the
event
the relief valve was
tampered with.
Fl-18.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner
Every
6000
miles
[9,600
km.] clean the inside
surÂ
face at the sump and
refill
to indicated oil level with
SAE
40 or 50
engine
oil
above
32 F; SAE 20
below
32 F. Wash filter
element
in kerosene and
drain.
Reassemble the air cleaner.
More
frequent cleaning and replacement is advis able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved roads. Accumulated dirt restricts air flow,
reducing fuel
economy
and performance.
Fl-19.
REMOVAL
PROCEDURES
The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the Exhaust Emission
Control
System and the required equipment
needed.
Fl-20.
Air
Pump
Loosen
the air pump adjusting strap to facilitate
drive
belt removal. Remove the air pump air disÂ
charge hose(s) and air filter attachment. Separate
the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of installation, torque tighten the air pump mountÂing
bolts
to
30-40
lbs-ft. [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.]. Adjust
the belt strand tension to
50-60
pounds on a belt
with previous service and
60-80
pounds on a new
belt.
Fl-21.
Anti-Backfire
Diverter Valve
The
anti-backfire diverter valve removal requires disconnecting the
hoses
and bracket to
engine
atÂ
taching screws.
Fl-22.
Air
Distribution
Manifold
and
Injection Tubes
In
order to remove the air distribution manifold
without bending the tubing, which could result in
fractures
or leakage, it is necessary to remove the
exhaust manifold as an assembly from the
engine.
After
the exhaust manifold assembly is removed
from
the
engine,
place the manifold in a vise and
loosen
the air distribution manifold
tube
retaining nuts at each cylinder exhaust port. Tap the injecÂ
tion
tubes
lightly to allow the air distribution maniÂ
fold to be pulled away partially from the exhaust manifold. The stainless steel injection
tubes
in the
exhaust manifold may have
become
partially fused
to the air distribution manifold and, therefore, may
require
application of heat to the joint in order to
separate. While applying heat to the joint, rotate
the injection
tubes
with pliers being careful not to
damage the
tubes
by applying excessive force.
At
time of installation, the air injection
tubes
must
be positioned into the exhaust manifold prior to
placing the exhaust manifold assembly on the en gine.
Note:
Two different length injection
tubes
are used.
The
shorter length injection
tubes
must be inserted into cylinders 1 and 4. 145
Page 156 of 376

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
the throttle
stop
screw to idle the
engine
at 650
to 700 rpm.
F2-17. Carburetor Idle Setting
The
"Lean
Best
Idle"
Method of Idle Setting is as
follows:
a.
Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment
b.
Connect tachometer to engine.
c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.
d.
Adjust
engine
idle to speed desired, using throtÂ
tle idle speed adjusting screw.
e.
Turn
idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise)
until
a
loss
of
engine
speed is indicated; then slowly
turn
mixture screws in (clockwise-leaner)
until
maximum speed (rpm) is reached. Continue
turning
in (clockwise) until speed begins to drop;
turn
mixture adjustment back out (counterclockÂ
wise-richer)
until maximum speed is just regained
at
a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.
F2-18. Distributor
The
ignition distributor used with the
Exhaust
Emission
Control
System is the same as that used
on
engines
without
Exhaust
Emission
Control.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and point
condition.
Check
ignition timing and adjust to specifications shown on the last
page
of this section.
F2-19.
Anti-Backfire
Valve
The
anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to close
rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
which connects the valve to the
pump.
With
a finger placed over the open end of
the
hose
(not the valve), accelerate the
engine
and allow the throttle to close rapidly. The valve is
operating satisfactorily if a momentary air rushing
noise is audible.
F2-20.
Check
Valve
The
check valves in the lines to the air distribution manifolds prevent the reverse flow of exhaust
gases
to the pump in the event the pump should, for
any
reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust
pressure
ever exceed pump pressure.
To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the check
valve.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust
leakage at the check valve which is connected to
the distribution manifold.
F2-21.
Air
Pump
Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be 60 pounds measured on the
longest
accessible span
between two pulleys. DO NOT PRY ON THE
DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING. To
check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine
running,
air discharge should be felt at one of
the pump
outlet
openings. The pump
outlet
air
pressure,
as determined by the relief valve, is preset
and
is not adjustable.
The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the presÂ
sure
relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.
F2-22.
Intake Manifold
Intake
manifold leaks must not be overlooked. Air
leakage at the intake manifold may be compenÂ
sated for by
richer
idle mixture setting, however, this
will
usually cause uneven fuel-air distribution
and
will
always result in
loss
of performance and
exhaust emission control. To check for air leakage
into the intake manifold, apply kerosene or naphÂ
tha,
on the intake manifold to cylinder head joints
and
observe whether any changes in
engine
rpm
occur.
If an air leak is indicated, check the maniÂ
fold to cylinder head bolt torque. The correct torque is 25-35 lbs. ft. [3,46 a 4,84 kg-m.]. If the
leak
is
still
evident,
loosen
the manifold assembly
and
torque-tighten the bolts evenly.
Start
from the center and use proper torque values. Replace the
manifold
gasket if the leak
still
exists.
Clean
both
mating surfaces and check for
burrs
or other irÂ
regularities.
Always
torque the bolts evenly to the specified
torque value to prevent warpage.
F2-23.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner
—Oil
Bath
Every
6,000
miles [9,600 km.] disconnect attachÂ
ing
hoses
and unscrew the wing nut from the top
of the air cleaner and lift it off the carburetor.
Lift
the cover and filter element off the oil sump.
Clean
the inside surface of the sump and
refill
to
indicated
oil level with SAE 40 or 50
engine
oil
above 32 F; SAE 20 below 32 F.
Wash
filter element in kerosene and
drain.
Reassemble the air
cleaner
and install on carburetor.
More
frequent cleaning and replacement are advis able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved
roads. Accumulated
dirt
restricts air flow,
reducing
fuel economy and performance.
F2-24.
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the exhaust emission
control
system and the required equipment needed.
F2-2S.
Air
Pump
Loosen
the air pump mounting bracket bolts. Re move the air pump air hose(s). Separate the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of installÂ
ation,
torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts
to
30-40
lbs.-ft [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.].
Adjust
the
belt strand tension to 60 pounds. 156
Page 162 of 376

COOLING
SYSTEM
14263
FIG.
G-2—COOLING SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
V-6
ENGINE
1—
Radiator
Pressure Cap
2—
Hose
Clamp
3—
Radiator
Hose (Inlet-Upper)
4—
Radiator
Hose (Outlet-Lower) 5—
Bolt
6—
Water
Pump Assembly 7—
Cap
8—Thermostat
By-Pass Hose
g—Water Outlet
Elbow
10—
Gasket
11—
Thermostat
12—
Water
Pump Gasket
13—
Dowel
Pin
14—
Radiator
Shroud (Heavy Duty Cooling) 15—
Pulley
16—
Fan
Spacer
17—
Fan
and Alternator Belt
18—Fan
19—
Lockwasher
20—
Radiator
21—
Drain
Cock
From
these
main passages, the coolant flows around
the
full
length of each combustion chamber.
After
cooling the block, the coolant passes through
ports between the block and each cylinder head.
These
ports direct most of the coolant flow around the exhaust valve area to prevent hot exhaust
gases
from
overheating the exhaust ports.
From
the cylinder heads, the water passes into a
water
manifold between each of the heads and the
water
pump. If the thermostat is closed, the coolant
is ported back to the pump where it is recirculated
back
into the pump and into the engine. After the
coolant heats enough to open the thermostat, the coolant is directed from the water manifold through
a
hose
to the top of the radiator and then through
the radiator which acts as a heat exchanger to cool the fluid. The coolant is then ported through a
hose
from
the bottom of the radiator to the pump, which
recirculates
it back to the engine.
The
cooling system is pressurized. Operating presÂ
sure
is regulated by a relief valve in the radiator
cap. The
heater inlet
hose
is connected to a port on
the right bank cylinder head. The outlet
hose
is connected to the heater adapter tube on the water
pump.
c.
It is recommended when using water for coolant
that the cooling system be flushed and checked for leaks twice a year, preferably in the
fall
before
antifreeze is added and in the spring when the antifreeze is drained.
Reverse
flushing
will
aid greatly in removing rust 162
Page 167 of 376

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
FIG.
G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT- HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—Temperature
Sending Unit
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.
The
thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in
the left
rear
area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.
G-ll.
WATER PUMP
a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.
The
water pump on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is a
centrifugal
impeller type of large capacity to
cirÂ
culate water in the entire cooling system. The double row
ball
bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which
will
last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant
and prevent
dirt
and dust from entering.
The
bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water
seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintainÂ
ing a constant pressure against both and preventing
water
leakage. A
drain
hole
in the
bottom
of the
pump body precludes any water
seepage
past the
seal
from entering the bearing.
The
impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.
A
centrifugal-type water pump, shown in
Fig.
G-10,
circulates
coolant through the Dauntless V-6
engine
and
its cooling system.
This
pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover.
Similar
to the
engine
cooling
fan
mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a
V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.
Coolant
enters the water pump at its center.
CentriÂ
fugal force then forces coolant radially outward, through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket.
This
water
pump has a sealed double row
ball
bearing
and
a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be
serviced.
In
event
of bearing or water seal failure, the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2.
Water
Pump Inspection
Check
the water pump for leaks, and excessive end play or
looseness
of the shaft in the pump. A
quick
way to check is to work the fan blades up
and
down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bearÂings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.
G-13.
Water Pump
Disassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine
•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
a.
Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.
b.
Remove the
bolts
attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.
c.
Remove the bearing retainer spring.
d.
Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a suitable puller.
e.
Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and
bearing
slinger.
G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine
•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal
seat in the pump body and should it be rough,
install
a new pump body.
To
reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the
FIG.
G-9—WATER
PUMP-
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—
Fan
and Pump Pulley
2—
Bearing
and Shaft
3—
Bearing
Retainer Spring
A—Pipe
Plug 5—
Pump
Body
6—
Seal
Washer 7—
Pump
Seal
8—
Impeller
9—
Gasket
167
Page 169 of 376

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
G
cation period. It is
good
preventive maintenance to
replace a badly frayed, worn or cracked fan belt
before it breaks in operation.
To
replace the fan belt,
loosen
the attaching
bolts
at each generator or alternator brace-to-engine mounting and pivot the alternator or generator toÂ
ward
the
engine
to gain slack needed to install the new belt Remove the old belt. Position the new
belt over the fan pulley, over the crankshaft pulley,
then over the generator or alternator pulley.
Pull
the generator or alternator away from the
engine
until
belt tension is
firm.
Then tighten the generator
or
alternator mounting
bolts
and check the tension
as indicated above. Reset the generator or alternator as necessary for correct belt tension.
Finally,
torque
the generator or alternator mounting
bolts
25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
Note:
On the Dauntless V-6
engine
when adjusting
the fan belt tension, the alternator mounting
bolts
should be torqued 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,14 to 5,53
kg-m.].
If a fan belt tension
gauge
(W-283) is
availÂ
able, proper tension should be 80 pounds [36,2 kg.].
G-l
9. Engine Overheating
An
engine
will
not be damaged by high coolant
temperatures unless the coolant boils. The presÂ
surized
cooling system on the 'Jeep' vehicles raises the boiling point of the coolant solution. Should
overheating be encountered, and the fault is beÂ
lieved to be in the cooling system check for the
following:
a.
Proper coolant level. See
Filling
Cooling SysÂ
tem Par. G-2.
b. Poor air flow.
Check
for dirty radiator core. (See Radiator Par. G-5).
Check
for faulty belt
pulley operation, worn or
loose
fan belt, or dam aged fan.
Clean,
repair, replace or adjust as necesÂ
sary.
c. Foaming coolant.
Check
for air leaks at water
pump,
hose
connection and filler cap. Tighten, reÂ
pair
or replace as necessary.
d.
Surging or "after boil".
Check
pressure cap and
replace if valves or gasket are faulty.
e.
External
leaks.
Check
the following for leaks:
Hoses and clamps, water pump, radiator, head gasÂ
ket, core plugs and drain cocks, as well as the cylin der head or block for
cracks.
f.
Internal
leaks.
Check
for faulty head gasket,
cracked
cylinder head or block.
g. Poor coolant flow.
Check
hose
condition, water pump, fan belt, and repair or replace as necessary. Inspect block for rust or scale, and clean and flush
the system, if necessary.
h.
Check
the temperature
gauge.
169
Page 230 of 376

CLUTCH
is deeply scored or grooved, the part should be
replaced.
b. Inspect driven plate for wear or damage to facÂ
ings,
loose
rivets, broken or
loose
torsion springs,
and
flattened cushion springs. If facings are worn
near
rivets or are oily, replace the plate assembly.
A
slight amount of oil on clutch facings
will
cause
clutch
grab and chatter; excessive oil on facings
will
cause slippage. It is not practical to remove
oil
with solvents or by buffing since oil
will
conÂ
tinue to bleed from facing material when hot. If
oil
is found on driven plate facings, examine transÂ
mission drainback hole, pilot bushing,
engine
rear
main
bearing and other points of possible oil leakage. Test the fit of driven plate hub on transÂ
mission main drive gear for an easy sliding fit.
c. Inspect clutch release bearing for scoring or ex cessive wear on front contact face. Test for roughÂ
ness
of balls and races by pressing and turning
front race slowly. Inspect main drive gear pilot
bushing in crankshaft. Replace bushing if it is rough or worn. Regardless of whether the old plate
or
a new plate is to be installed, check the plate
for runout. Slide the driven plate, front side first,
over the transmission main drive gear shaft so that
it
is tight on the spline. Index a
dial
indicator to the plate facing as shown in
Fig.
1-9. While holding
firmly
against front end of main drive gear, to take up play in main drive gear bearing, slowly
rotate driven plate and observe the amount of
runÂ
out shown by indicator. If runout of front facing
exceeds
.025" [0,635 mm.], replace the plate. It
is not practical to correct excessive runout by bending. 12769
FIG.
1-9—RUNOUT
CHECK
—
CLUTCH
PLATE
1—
Front
Facing
(Flywheel
Side)
2—
Dial
Indicator
Set
d.
Check
clutch pilot bushing for excessive wear
or
damage. Replace pilot bushing, if necessary, with
special
removal and installation
tools.
(See
Figs.
1-6 and 1-7). 1-13.
SERVICING
CLUTCH
PRESSURE
PLATE
AND
DISC
—
BORG
&
BECK
V6
(Late
Models)
The
Borg & Beck clutch is a single plate, dry disk
type. It provides smooth
engagement
of
engine
power to the wheels. The clutch consists of a presÂ
sure
plate assembly with pressure springs and
release levers, and driven plate assembly. The
driven
plate assembly
uses
spring center vibration
neutralizes and two flexible facings.
The
clutch driven plate is spring cushioned with a facing riveted to both sides. The coil springs around
the hub absorb the power shocks and cushion the
driving
mechanism. The clutch throw-out bearing is of the
ball
type, packed at time of manufacture,
and
requires no further lubrication.
No adjustment for wear is provided in the clutch itself. An individual adjustment is built into the
clutch
cover to adjust the height of the release
levers.
This
adjusting nut is locked in position
and
should never be disturbed unless the clutch assembly has been disassembled for the replaceÂ
ment of worn parts or to correct the height of the release levers.
When
the clutch pedal is depressed (disengaged),
the release bearing is moved toward the flywheel
and
contacts the inner ends of the release levers.
Each
lever is pivoted on a floating pin which reÂ
mains stationary in the lever and rolls across a short flat portion of the enlarged
hole
in the eye-
bolt. The outer ends of the
eyebolts
extend
through
holes
in the stamped cover and are fitted
with
adjusting nuts to secure the levers in the
correct
position. The outer ends of the release levers
engage
the pressure plate lugs by means of ful-
crums,
which provide knife-edge contact
between
the outer ends of the levers and the lugs as shown
in
Fig.
I-10. 12190
FIG.
MO—CLUTCH
LEVER
POSITIONS
A—Clutch
Engaged
B—Clutch
Disengaged 1-14.
Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment
The
clutch pressure plate adjustment must be
checked before installing a new or reconditioned
clutch.
The proper spacer thickness and
gage
length for a particular clutch is listed in Par. 1-30.
Use
Clutch
Adjusting
Fixture
W-296. If the W-296
fixture is not available one can be fabricated as
described in Par. 1-26. 230
Page 267 of 376

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
ft
TRANSFER CASE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
. . .K-1
TRANSFER CASE REMOVAL
K-2
TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLY
K-3
Front
Bearing Cap K-4
Rear
Bearing Cap K-5
TRANSFER CASE REASSEMBLY.
. .K-6
TRANSFER CASE INSTALLATION
K-7
TRANSFER CASE LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT
K-8
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
K-9
SPECIFICATIONS
.K-10
K-1. GENERAL
All
4-wheel-drive models are equipped with a
transfer
case to connect the power to the front
axle.
It is essentially a
two-speed
transmission
located at the
rear
of the standard transmission
and
provides a low and direct gear.
The
transfer case gears are controlled by the
driver
through
one shift lever.
Early
'Jeep'
Universal
Models with the F4-134
Hurricane
engine
are equipped with two transfer case shift control levers.
a.
On vehicles equipped with one transfer case
shift
lever, the transfer case shift lever has four
positions: 2WD
High,
4WD
High,
Neutral, and
4WD
low. The forward position of the lever 2WD
High
allows the
rear
wheels only to drive. The
first
rear
position (4WD High)
engages
the 4- wheel drive and provides high range 4-wheel drive.
The
second
rear
position (Neutral)
disengages
all power to the wheels and is used for stationary
power take-off operations. The last
rear
position
(4WD
Low) provides low range 4-wheel drive.
b.
On vehicles equipped with two transfer case
shift
levers, the transfer case front axle drive lever (left hand lever)
gives
a choice of 2-wheel or 4-
wheel drive. In the forward (out) position the
vehicle is in 2-wheel drive. Move the lever to the
rear
(in) position for 4-wheel drive operation.
The
4-wheel-drive
auxiliary-range
shift lever (right
hand
lever) has three positions; low, neutral, and
high.
The forward position (low)
gives
low-range
4-wheel drive. The center position (neutral) disÂ
engages
all power to the wheels and is used for
stationary
power take-off operations. A built-in inÂ
terlock
prevents shifting into low range, 2-wheel
drive.
This
feature protects the
rear
axle from overÂ
load.
K-2.
Removal of
Transfer
Case
The
transfer case may be removed from the vehicle
without removing the transmission. Where both
transmission
and transfer case are to be removed
together,
refer to Section J. To remove only the
transfer
case from the vehicle, proceed as follows:
a.
Drain
transmission
and transfer case and replace
drain
plugs.
b.
Disconnect the brake cable.
c.
Disconnect front and
rear
propeller shafts at
the transfer case. See "Propeller Shafts and
UniÂ
versal
Joints."
d.
Disconnect
speedometer
cable at transfer case. e. Disconnect the transfer case shift levers. On
vehicles equipped with two shift levers
loosen
set screw and remove pivot pin. Use a screw
driver
to pry shift lever springs away from shift levers.
Lift
levers from transfer case. On models equipped
with
a single shift lever remove pivot pin cotter
key,
and the adjusting rod attaching nut to remove
shift
lever. See Fig. K-4.
f. Remove cover plate on
rear
face of transfer case.
Remove
cotter key, nut and washer from transÂ
mission
main shaft.
g. If possible, at this point remove the transfer case main drive gear from the transmission main
shaft.
If not possible, see
step
j below.
h.
Remove transfer case torque reaction support
bracket
bolt and nut.
i.
Remove transmission to transfer case bolts.
j.
Remove transfer case. If the transfer case main
drive
gear has not been removed in
step
g above,
proceed as follows:
Brace
the end of the transÂ
mission
main shaft so that it cannot
move
in the
transmission,
pull
the transfer case to the
rear
to 267