drain bolt JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

13330

FIG.
B-4—ENGINE
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

1—
Rocker
Arm Shaft
2—
Main
Oil
Line

3—
Oil
Inlet where it is connected by a drilled passage in the

cylinder
crankcase to an oil screen housing and
pipe assembly. The screen is submerged in the oil supply and has ample area for all operating condi­
tions. If the screen should
become
clogged
for any reason, oil may be drawn into the system over the
top
edge
of the screen, which is held clear of the

sheet
metal screen housing.

Oil
is drawn into the pump through the screen and
pipe assembly and a drilled passage in the
crank­

case, which connects to drilled passages in the
timing chain cover. All oil is discharged from the
pump to the oil pump cover assembly. The cover
assembly consists of an oil pressure relief valve,
an
oil filter bypass valve and a nipple for installa­
tion of an oil filter. The spring loaded oil pressure

relief
valve limits the oil pressure to a maximum
of 30 pounds [13.607 kg.] per square inch. The

oil
filter bypass valve
opens
when the filter has
become
clogged
to the
extent
that
4V2
to 5 pounds [2.04 a 2.27 kg.] pressure difference exists
between

the filter inlet and exhaust to bypass the oil filter
and
channel unfiltered oil directly to the main oil galleries of the engine.

A
full flow oil filter is externally mounted to the

oil
filter cover nipple on the right side of the en­ gine, just below the alternator. Normally, all
engine

oil
passes through the filter element; however, if
the element
becomes
restricted, a spring loaded bypass valve
opens
as mentioned above. The main

oil
galleries run the full length of the crankcase
and
cut into the valve lifter guide
holes
to supply

oil
at full pressure to the lifters. Connecting pas­
sages
drilled in the crankcase permit delivery of

oil
at full pressure to all crankshaft and camshaft
bearings.
Holes drilled in the crankshaft
carry
oil from the
crankshaft
bearings to the connecting rod bearings.
Pistons and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil
forced through a small notch in the bearing parting
surface on the connecting rod, which registers with
the
hole
in the crankpin
once
in every revolution. Piston pins are lubricated by splash.

Drilled
holes
in the camshaft connect the front camshaft bearing
journal
to the key slot in the front
of the camshaft. Oil flows from the
journal
into
the keyslot over the woodruff key in the space

between
the key and the camshaft sprocket and fuel pump eccentric.

The
forward end of the fuel pump eccentric in­ corporates a relief which allows the oil to escape

between
the fuel pump eccentric and the camshaft

distributor
gear. The oil stream strikes the distri­
butor shaft gear
once
each camshaft revolution, and provides ample lubrication of the timing chain and
sprockets by splash.

The
rocker arms and valves on each cylinder head

are
supplied with oil from the oil galleries through

holes
drilled in the front of the cylinder block and

cylinder
head. The
hole
drilled in the cylinder
head ends beneath the front rocker
arm
shaft brack­ et. A notch cast in the base of the rocker arm shaft

bracket
allows the oil to flow up inside the bracket

in
the space
between
the bracket and bolt, to the
hollow rocker arm shaft which is plugged at both
ends.
Each
rocker arm receives oil through a
hole

in
the underside of the shaft. Grooves in the rocker

arm
provide lubrication of the bearing surface. Oil
is metered to the push rod seat and valve stem
through
holes
drilled in the rocker arm. Excess
oil
drains off and returns to the oil pan through
passages in the cylinder head and block. Refer to
the
Lubrication
Chart
for lubrication frequency and

lubrication
type and grade.

B-7.
Chassis
Lubrication

Chassis
and
engine
should be serviced at periodic
intervals.
Most chassis lubricating points, whether
long-life or conventional, have standard lubrication
fittings. Refer to the
Lubrication
Specifications and

Service
Maintenance Schedule for specific points

and
lubricating time intervals. It is not necessary
to disassemble prepacked joints to lubricate them.

Merely
add new lubricant, as described in Par.
B-3,
to remove all old lubricant.

At
the appropriate interval, clean each lubrication
fitting indicated on the Lubrication
Chart
and
Service
Maintenance Schedule. Use a pressure gun
to lubricate. Be sure the grease channels are open
to provide complete lubrication of bearing surfaces.
In
some
cases it may be necessary to disassemble
to clear plugged channels.

When
vehicles are driven primarily in abnormally dusty or wet areas or when a vehicle is subject to
severe operating conditions, perform
these
services
more frequently. Under
these
conditions, no definite interval can be recommended because of the great variety of
uses
and conditions of use. 11

B
LUBRICATION B-3.
SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

Perform
the following operations at the mileage shown. Two thousand miles equals
3,200
km.

SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

OPERATION
VEHICLE
^ n>
MILEAGE
IN
THOUSANDS

6 8 10 12 24 30
Check Wheel Nut Torque*
Check
Fluid
Level
in Battery X Check
Fluid
Level
in Brake Master Cylinder0. X
Service
Cooling
System X Service Tires X

Lubricate
Distributor
Cam Lubricator (F4-134) X
Lubricate
Steering Linkage X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft
Slip
Joints ; X
Lubricate
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets................................... X Change Engine
Oil
and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (F4 134 Engine)** X
Change Engine Oil and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (V6-225 Engine)**....
Check Brake Operation and Pedal
Free
Play X Check
Clutch
Pedal
Free
Play. .... X
Check all
V-Belt
Tensions X
Check Exhaust Emission System
(If
so equipped)*** \ X
Service Positive
Crankcase
Vent
Valve
and Breather . .' X
Road Test
Including
a Check of all Instrument
Lights
and Controls X Tune-up Engine
Check Operation of
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve

Clean
Exterior of Radiator

Align
Headlights • Check Brake
Linings
,
Check Exhaust System for Leaks Replace Canister Air
Filter
(F. E. E. C. System)
Check
Axle
U-Bolt
Torque. Check Lubricaunt
Level
of Front
Axle
Universal Joints
Check Shock Absorber Mountings and Bushings Check Front and
Rear
Spring Bushings

Lubricate
Distributor
(V6-225).
Replace Spark, Plugs
Check Charging and Starting Circuits
Lubricate
Tailgate Latch, Supports and Hinges.

Lubricate
Door and
Hood
Hinge Pivots ;
Lubricate
Glove Compartment Door Latch

Lubricate
Heater Controls •

Lubricate
Windshield
Wiper and Washer Controls
Clean,
Repack and
Adjust
Wheel Bearings
Change Transmission and Transfer Lubricant. .
Replace
Dry-Type
Air Cleaner • Check Lubricant
Level
of
Differential

Lubricate
Transfer
Case
Shift
LeArer
Control
C«se.
. , . . . . . . . .
Continuing
each
2,000 miles

Continuing
each
6,000 miles

Continuing
each
24,000 miles

X
Continuing
each
30,000 miles
•Check after the
first
200 miles [320
km.
J
of operation.
If
wheel or wheels are changed for any
reason,
have
wheel nut torque rechecked after an additional two hundred miles of operation
••Service mileage shown or every 60 days, whichever occurs
first.

•••Maintenance check on emission system must be performed per
information
in this manual. "See text for brakes.

"Nj
^Miles
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Kilometers

3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400 48,000

B-9.
Engine Oil

For
maximum
engine
protection under all driving conditions encountered during the recommended

oil
change intervals, it is necessary to use only

"MS"
certified
sequence-tested
oils. The term
"MS"
must appear on the oil container singly or

in
conjunction with other designations. "MS" des­
ignated oils are heavy-duty detergent oils that are
formulated to withstand all service conditions in
modern powerplants. Engine oils designated only
as
"ML"
and/or
"MM"
are not recommended and should not be used except in an emergency when

"MS"
oil is not available. Certified
sequence-tested

engine
oils are described on their containers by

such
phrases as:
meets,
exceeds,
excels, or has
proven superior in the
test
requirements,
test
sequences, MS Service
tests,
standards, and service

requirements,
of automotive manufacturers, auto­
makers,
or car manufacturers for MS service or
Service
MS.
It
may be necessary to change
engine
oil more
frequently than normally recommended, depending upon the type and quality of oil used, the severity
of operation conditions, if the
engine
is used for
short
periods in cold weather, or if the
engine
is allowed to idle for excessive periods.

Always
drain
the crankcase while the
engine
is hot since
dirt
and contaminants are then more
likely
to be held in suspension and therefore
will

drain
out more completely.
Drain
the crankcase as follows:

a.
Position the
drain
receptacle under the
drain

plug.

b.
Remove the
drain
plug using the correct size

wrench.
Be careful of hot oil.
c.
Carefully
clean the
drain
plug. Inspect and

replace
the gasket, if deteriorated.
d.
When the oil has drained, replace and tighten
the crankcase
drain
plug. 12

B

LUBRICATION
Note:
Hard
shifting of the transmission gear in
cold weather is a positive indication that the
lubri­

cant
is of the wrong viscosity or of poor quality

which
allows it to congeal.

B-38.
Optional
4-Speed
Transmission
and
Transfer Case

The
four-speed transmission and transfer case re­

quire
separate lubrication for each unit as
they
have no cross-over oil passage. At each transmission
service check, the
fill
plugs of
both
four-speed

transmission
and transfer case should be pulled
and
the lubricant refilled to level if necessary.

B-39.
Transfer
Case
Linkage

The
transfer case shift linkage should be lubricated

periodically.
All
bearing surfaces that are assembled
with
studs and cotter pins should be disassembled, cleaned, and coated with a
good
waterproof grease.

The
bearing surfaces that cannot be disassembled
should be lubricated with a lubricant that
will
penetrate the bearing
area.
These bearings include
the two on the cross shaft assembly and the
threaded stud.

The
type
of penetrating lubricant recommended is
DuPont
"PM 7", No. 2911, or its equivalent.

B-40.
Brake Master Cylinder

Clean
the top of the
fill
cap and also the housing

area
around it. Remove the cap and observe the
fluid
level. It should be
half
an inch
below
the top
of the fill-hole. If not, add brake fluid to
half
inch
[1,3 cm.]
below
the top of the fill-hole. Use
only heavy-duty brake fluid conforming to speci­
fication
SAE-J-1703.
Be sure to handle the brake

fluid
in clean dispensers and containers that
will
not introduce even the
slightest
amount of other

liquids
or foreign particles. Replace and tighten
the
fill
cap.

B-41.
Adjust Brakes

Refer
to Section P.
B-42.
Brake Linings

Refer
to Section P.

B-43.
Adjust Clutch

Refer
to Section I.

B-44.
Clutch Cross Shaft (Lever Type)

Lubricate
the clutch cross shaft in accordance with
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see
Item
1. Chassis Bearings.

B-45.
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets

The
tie rod and drag
link
sockets
are equipped

with
lubrication
fittings
and should be lubricated

per
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see Item 1. Chassis Bearings.
B-46.
Front
and
Rear Spring
Bushings

The
condition of the spring bushings is indicated
by the alignment of the spring pivot and spring
shackle
bolts.
Check
the alignment of
these
bolts,

and
check that nuts are
tightened
securely.

B-47.
Spring
Shackles

Rubber
bushings are provided on the spring
shackles.
These rubber bushings have no lubrication
fitting and it is very important that
they
never be lubricated.

B-48.
Shock Absorbers

Visually
check for broken mounts or bolts, worn

or
missing bushings on the shock absorbers. Refer
to Section S.

B-49.
Front and
Rear
Axle
U-Bolts

Torque
the front and
rear
axle U-bolts. Refer to Section S.

B-50. Front
and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Lubricant Levels

The
lubricant
level of all front and
rear
differentials should be at the level of the fill-hole.

B-51.
Front and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Changing
Lubricant
B-52.
Conventional Differentials

To
remove the lubricant from the front or
rear
differential,
it is necessary to remove the housing cover. Let the lubricant
drain
out, and then flush
the differential with a flushing oil or light
engine

oil
to clean out the housing
(except
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differentials). Do not use water, steam,
kerosene, or
gasoline
for flushing.

Reinstall
the housing cover, replacing the gasket whenever necessary, torquing the cover
bolts
to 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4 kg-m.].
Remove the filler plug, and
refill
the differential
housing as specified in the
Lubrication
Specifica­
tions.

B-53.
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok Differential

Some vehicles may be equipped with the
Powr-Lok

or
Trac-Lok
Differential as optional equipment.
Special
lubricant and ordinary multipurpose gear

lubricants
must
not be used. Use only
'Jeep*
Differ­

ential
Oil,
Part
No. 94557.

Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
differentials may be cleaned
only by disassembling the unit and wiping with
clean
rags. Do not flush the unit. Refer to Sec­
tion N.

B-54.
Front Axle Universal Joint
—
Lube

Check
the level of the front axle universal joint
lubricant
at each front wheel by removing the
fill-hole plug. The lubricant should be level with
the fill-hole. If required, add lubricant as specified

in
Lubrication
Specifications.

B-55.
Front
Axle
Universal
Joint
— Service

On
all 4-wheel drive vehicles the front axle
uni­

versal
joint should be serviced by removing the shaft and thoroughly cleaning the universal joints

and
housing. For the correct procedures, refer to
Section M. 16

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
insulator
mountings attached to the frame side

rail
brackets. The
rear
of the engine-transmission
assembly is supported by a rubber insulator
mounting under the
rear
of the transmission on
the frame center cross member.
This
cross member
is bolted to the frame side
rails
so that it can be
dropped when removing the transmission or engine-

transmission
assembly. The rubber insulators allow
free side and vertical oscillation to effectively

neutralize
engine
vibration at the source.

The
rubber
insulator mountings should be inspected
for separation and deterioration by jacking the
power plant away from the frame, near the sup­
ports. Vibration cannot be effectively absorbed by
separated or worn insulators. They should be re­ placed if faulty.

D-4.
Engine
Ground
Strap

To
be sure of an
effective
ground for the electrical

circuits,
a ground strap bridges the right front

engine
support to the chassis. The connections of this strap must be kept clean and tight for proper
operation of the electrical system.

D-5. ENGINE REMOVAL

Should
the
engine
require overhauling, it is neces­

sary
to remove it from the vehicle. The following procedure covers removal of the
engine
only.

The
engine, transmission and transfer case may be
removed as a unit by removing (in addition to the following procedure) the radiator guard and the
access plates in the floor pan.

a.
Drain
the cooling system by opening the
drain
cocks at the
bottom
of the radiator and lower right
side of the cylinder block.

b.
Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal
to avoid the possibility of short
circuit.

c. Remove the air cleaner horn from the carburetor
and
disconnect the breather
hose
at the oil filler
pipe.

d.
Disconnect the carburetor choke and throttle controls by loosening the clamp
bolts
and set
screws.

e. Disconnect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at the fuel pump by unscrewing the connecting nut.
f- Plug the fuel line to prevent fuel leakage.
g. Remove the radiator and radiator grille support

rods.

h. Remove the upper and lower radiator
hoses
by
loosening the
hose
clamps and slipping the clamps
back
on the
hose.
If so equipped, remove the heater

hoses
(one to the water pump, one to the
rear
of
the cylinder head) in the same manner.

i.
Remove the four
bolts
from the fan hub and re­

move
the fan hub and fan blades.

j.
Remove the four radiator attaching screws. Re­
move
the radiator and shroud as one unit, k. Remove the starting motor cables. Remove the

starting
motor.

I.
Disconnect the wires from the alternator or
generator. Disconnect the ignition
primary
wire
at the ignition coil.
NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL, REMOVE THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTION
MANI­
FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)

VALVE.
SEE SECTION
Fl
FOR PROCEDURE.
m.
Disconnect the oil pressure and temperature
sending unit wires at the units.

n.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold by removing the stud nuts.

o.
Disconnect the
spark
plug cables at the plugs

and
remove the cable bracket from the rocker arm cover stud.

p.
Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the
attaching stud nuts.

q.
Attach a lifting bracket to the
engine
using
existing head bolt locations. Be sure the
bolts
selected
will
hold the
engine
with the weight

balanced.
Attach lifting bracket to a boom hoist,

or
other lifting device, and take up all slack,
r.
Remove the two nuts and
bolts
from each front

engine
support. Disconnect the
engine
ground strap.
Remove the
engine
supports.
Lower
the
engine
slightly to permit access to the two top
bolts
on
the flywheel housing.
s. Remove the
bolts
which attach the flywheel
housing to the engine.

t.
Pull
the
engine
forward, or
roll
the vehicle back­

wards,
until the clutch clears the flywheel housing.

Lift
the
engine
from the vehicle.

D-6. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also ap­
plicable
separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,

provided
that wherever necessary the part of the

engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by
removal
of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed

with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly

and
the oil has been drained.
In
addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the
engine
out of the vehicle,

special
instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is
done
with the
engine
installed.

During
disassembly operations, the
engine
should
be mounted in a suitable
engine
repair
stand. Where

practicable,
modify or adapt an existing repair

stand
as necessary to accommodate the engine. If

an
engine
repair stand is not used, take care to

perform
disassembly operations in a manner that

will
protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.

NOTE:
If the
engine
is being disassembled because
of possible valve failure, check the valve tappet
clearance
before disassembly. Improper valve

clearance
could be the possible cause of valve

failure,
indicating a need for more frequent valve
checks and adjustments. 41

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-6—F4-134
ENGINE

1— Rocker Arm Shaft and Plug
2— Rocker Shaft
Lock
Screw
3—
Cylinder
Head Bolt
4— Nut
5—
Left
Rocker Arm
6— Rocker Shaft Support Stud
7— Nut
8— Rocker Arm Shaft Spring
9— Right Rocker Arm
10— Nut
11— Rocker Arm Cover Stud
12—
Plain
Washer
13— Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket
14— Intake Valve Tappet Adjusting Screw
15— Intake Valve Spring Retainer

Lock

16—
Oil
Seal
17— Intake Valve Spring Retainer
18— Intake Valve Spring
19—
Flared
Tube Connector
20— Pipe Plug H'

21—
Pipe Plug W
22—
Cylinder
Head
23— Intake Valve Push Rod
24— Intake Valve Guide
25— Intake Valve 26— Piston
27— Connecting Rod
28— Connecting Rod Cap Bolt
29— Connecting Rod Bearing Set
30—
Exhaust
Valve

31—
Exhaust
Valve Guide 32—
Cylinder
Block
33—
Cylinder
Block
Drain
Lock

34— Tappet Adjusting Screw
35—
Exhaust
Valve Tappet
36—
Crankshaft
Rear
Bearing Seal
37—
Crankshaft
Bearing Dowel
38—
Front
Bearing Set
39— Center Bearing Set
40—
Rear
Bearing Set
41—Bolt 42— Dowel
43—
Crankshaft

44—
Rear
Bearing Cap Packing
45—
Rear
Main Bearing Cap
4 6—Lockwasher
47— Bolt
48—
Lock
Nut
49— Connecting Rod Cap Nut
50— Center Main Bearing Cap
51—
Front
Main Bearing Cap
52— Screw and Lockwasher 53— Screw and Lockwasher
54—
Oil
Pump
55— Gasket
56—
Crankshaft
Shim
57—
Crankshaft
Thrust Washer
58— Gasket
59— Stud
60—
Exhaust
Valve Spring Cover 61— Gasket
62— Valve Spring Retainer Lower

Lock

63— Roto-Cap 64—
Exhaust
Valve Spring
65— Camshaft Front Bushing
66—
Timing
Gear
Oil Jet
67— Camshaft
68— Camshaft Thrust Plate
69— Spacer 70— Bolt and Lockwasher
71— Thermostat
72— Gasket 73— Water Outlet Fitting
74— Screw and Lockwasher

10675

Inspect
tapped
openings.
Repair any
damaged

threads. Replace any broken
studs.

b.
Check the cylinder
bores
for
out-of-round
and
taper to
determine
if the
bores
require
honing
or reboring. For detail information refer to Par. D-35.
c. If
there
is any reason to
believe
that
any of the main bearing cap
dowels
have
been
bent
during
bearing cap removal, install new
ones.
The
dowels
must
fit
tightly
to ensure cap
alignment
and as
they

are hardened
they
may be difficult to grip and re­

move.
To simplify the operation,
file
a
notch
on
each
side
of the
dowel
to
accommodate
a pair of
diagonal cutters. Using a
piece
of bar
stock
under the
diagonals
for
leverage,
work the
dowel
out. Be­

fore
installing a new
dowel
in the cylinder block, make sure the
dowel
hole
is clean. Start the
dowel
46

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-2
5
—
OIL
FILTER,
OIL PAN, OIL PUMP AND
LINES

1—
Oil
Filler Cap
2— Gasket

3—Oil
Filler Tube

4—Bolt
5— Bracket 6—
Oil
Line (Crankcase to Cylinder Head) 7— Screw
8—
Oil
Line Bracket
9— ^Fastener
10— Gasket
11—
Pin
12— Driven Gear (Oil Pump)
13—
Oil
Pump
14— Shaft and Rotors 15— Cover Gasket
16— -Cover (Oil Pump)
17—
Oil
Pan Gasket
18—
Oil
Pan 19—
Drain
Plug Gasket
20—
Oil
Pan Drain Plug
21— Lockwasher
22—
Fan
Pulley Shield 23— Spacer 24— Stud (Oil Filter Bracket)
25— Lockwasher 26— Retainer
27— Gasket
28— Shim 29— Spring 30— Plunger
31— Gasket
32—
Oil
Float Support 33—
Oil
Float Assy.
34— Cotter Pin
35— Elbow Fitting 36—
Oil
Filter Tube (Inlet)
37—
Oil
Filter Tube (Outlet)
38—
Jam
Nut
39— Bracket
40—
Oil
Filter Base 41—
Oil
Filter Brace
42—
Oil
Filter Assy.
43— Clamp 58

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D

10262

FIG.
D-26—FLOATING OIL INTAKE AND PAN 1—
Oil
Float

2—
Gasket

3—
Oil
Float Support

4—
Screw and Lockwasher 5—
Oil
Pan Gasket
6—
Oil
Pan 7—
Bolt
and Lockwasher
8—
Drain
Plug
9—
Drain
Plug Gasket
place it with the gasket in position. The rotors
should then rotate freely, providing that end float of the rotors is
less
than the thickness of the gasket
when compressed or .004" [0,102 mm.]. After as­
sembling the gear on the pump shaft, check the
running
clearance
between
the gear and pump body with a feeler
gauge.
This
clearance should be

from
.022" to .051" [0,559 a 1,295 mm.].

Pump
output is controlled by a pressure relief valve.

CAUTION:
The oil pressure relief spring is
cali­

brated.
Never stretch this spring to alter the relief valve pressure setting. Adjust this setting by the use of shims only. Shims are available that can be
added
between
the retainer and the spring to in­
crease pressure. When shims are present, removing
shims
will
decrease pressure.

This
adjustment
will
change the pressure at higher

speeds
but not at idle speed. Safe minimum pres­

sure
is 6 psi. [0,4 kg-cm2] at idle, at which point
the oil pressure light
goes
out; and 20 psi. [1,4
kg-cm2] at
2000
rpm. (32 mph. [51 kph.]).

D-66.
Oil Pan

Examine
the oil pan carefully for evidence of cor­

rosion,
dents, or other damage. Special attention
should be given to the mounting flange to be sure of proper alignment and a tight seal at the cylinder
block, oil pan, and
engine
front plate. Whenever
the oil pan is removed, it is
best
to install a new

oil
pan gasket.

D-67.
Flywheel

The
flywheel is mounted on the
rear
flange of the
crankshaft.
The crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch
assembly are statically and dynamically balanced
separately and as a unit; therefore,
these
com­

ponents
should be assembled in their original
rela­

tive positions to maintain this balance.

D-68.
Flywheel Inspection

Clean
the flywheel thoroughly with cleaning sol­ vent. Inspect the clutch face of the flywheel for

a
burned or scuffed condition or rivet grooves.

Check
the flywheel for run-out or improper mount­
ing according to the installation procedure given

in Par.
D-87.

If
the inner ends of the flywheel ring gear
teeth
are
only slightly burred cr snubbed, remove the burrs
and
reshape the
teeth
using a small emery wheel. 59

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Lubricate
the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with
engine
oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the num­
bered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The con­
necting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.

Used
stamped nuts should be discarded and re­
placed with new
ones.
These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut.
Turn
the locking nut finger
tight and then 34
turn
more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.

D-96.
Install
Crankshaft
Pulley

Align
the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley

onto
the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood

between
one of the counterweights on the
crank­

shaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.

D-97.
Install
Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new

oil
pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in posi­
tion on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque
the attaching
bolts
12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1

kg-m.].
Install
the oil pan
drain
plug and gasket

and
tighten the plug securely.

D-98.
Install
Cylinder
Head

Make
certain that the entire top of the cylinder

block
assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder

head,
and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow

all
dirt
or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt
holes

in
the cylinder block before the cylinder head and gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer

Part
No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head gasket with the crimped
edges
of the gasket metal down (See Fig. D-31).
This
gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the
cylin­

der
head
between
the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
10102

FIG.
D-41—CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
gases
reaching
an
asbestos
portion of the cylinder
head gasket.
Install
the cylinder head bolts. Tighten

the
bolts
with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft. 8,3 a 9,7
kg-m.]
in the sequence shown in
Fig.
D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt

in
the intake
manifold
directly under the
car­

buretor
opening.

D-99.
Install
Rocker Arm Assembly

a.
Insert
ball
ends of the intake valve push rods through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.

b.
Install
the
rocker-arm
assembly on the 'four

rocker-arm-mounting
studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the
ball
ends of the intake valve tappet

adjusting
screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.

c.
Install
the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread
each nut down evenly in sequence, one

turn
at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].

d.
Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install
the cover placing an oil seal then a flat

washer
and nut on each cover stud. Cement a new gasket on the exhaust valve cover.
Install
the cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring
gaskets under the attaching screw heads.

Torque
the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft. [1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100.
Install
Distributor and
Spark
Plugs

To
correctly install the distributor, it
will
be neces­

sary
to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To
locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first

turn
the
engine
until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression

pressure
being forced through the
spark
plug open­

ing.
Turn
the
engine
slowly until the 5° before top
center
mark
on the timing gear cover is in align­
ment with the
mark
on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the
cylin­
der
block and install the distributor. Mount the

rotor
on distributor shaft and
turn
the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1
spark
plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

Connect
the core
primary
wire to the distributor.

Clean
and adjust the
spark
plugs, setting the elec­

trode
gaps
at .030" [0,762 mm.].
Install
the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the com­
bustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque
the
spark
plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6

kg-m.].

Install
spark
plug cables, placing them in the dis­

tributor
cap terminal towers starting with No. 1

and
installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2). 67

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12710

FIG.
D1
-3—HYDRAULIC VALVE
LIFTER
ASSEMBLY, CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW
1—
Snap
Ring
6—Ball Retainer

2— Rod
Seat
7—Plunger Spring

3—
Oil
Inlets
8—Lifter
Body

4—
Plunger
9—Bronzed
Cap
5— Feed
Hole
sages
in the block and cylinder head.

The
water cooled system is pressurized to provide efficient
engine
cooling. It consists of a centrifugal-
type water pump, mounted on the timing chain cover, and is driven by the
engine
fan pulley. The
pump provides coolant flow equally to both
cylin­
der banks under control of a thermostat. Coolant
flow is around the cylinders and through the
cylinder
head to dispel the heat of combustion in
the engine.

Dl-3.
Engine Mounts

The
engine-transmission unit is mounted to the chassis at three points by rubber pads. The two
front mounts are bolted to the
engine
cylinder
block and the frame members. These mounts sup­ port most of the
engine
weight, and absorb
vibra­

tion which would otherwise be caused by changes
in
engine
output torque. The single
rear
mount is
placed
between
the transmission and the trans­ mission support. It supports part of the engine'

and
transmission weight, and locates the
rear
of
the
engine
with respect to the centerline of the
vehicle.

Dl-4. ENGINE REMOVAL
To
remove the
engine
from the vehicle follow the
procedurers listed below:

a.
Remove hood. b. Disconnect battery cables from battery and
engine. c. Remove air cleaner.

d.
Drain
coolant from radiator and engine.
e.
Drain
engine
oil.
f. Disconnect alternator wiring harness from con­ nector at regulator.

cj.
Disconnect the fuel evaporative purge line con­ nected to the
P.C.V.
valve.

h.
Disconnect upper and lower radiator
hoses
from
the engine.

i.
Remove right and left radiator support
bars,

j.
Remove radiator from the vehicle.

k.
Disconnect
engine
wiring harnesses from con­
nectors located on
engine
firewall.
I.
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission con­

trol,
remove the air pump, air distribution manifold,

and
anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2 for
procedure.

m.
Disconnect battery cable and wiring from en­

gine
starter assembly.

n.
Remove
engine
starter assembly from engine,

o.
Disconnect
engine
fuel
hoses
from fuel lines at

right
frame
rail,
p. Plug fuel lines.

q.
Disconnect choke cable from carburetor and cable support bracket mounted on engine,
r.
Disconnect exhaust pipes from right and left

engine
manifolds.
s. Place
jack
under transmission and support trans­
mission weight.
f. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to front motor mounts.

u.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using hoist, support
engine
weight.
v. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to flywheel housing.
w. Raise
engine
slightly and slide
engine
forward
to remove transmission main shaft from clutch plate spline.

Note:
Engine and transmission must be raised
slightly to release the main shaft from the clutch
plate while sliding the
engine
forward.
x. When
engine
is free of transmission shaft raise

engine
and remove from vehicle,
y. Place
engine
on suitable blocking or
engine
stand and remove sling from engine.

Dl-5.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some of the operations of the procedure are also appli­cable separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,
provided that wherever necessary the part of the
engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by removal of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed
with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have
been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly and
the oil has been drained.