steering wheel adjustment JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 1953, Model line: CJ, Model: JEEP CJ 1953Pages: 376, PDF Size: 19.96 MB
Page 239 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
J
THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
J-l
TRANSMISSION
SHIFTING
CONTROL.
. J-2
TRANSMISSION
REMOTE
CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
J-3
REMOTE
CONTROL
DISASSEMBLY
J-4
REMOTE
CONTROL
REASSEMBLY.
. . . . J-5
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
J-6
SEPARATING
TRANSMISSION
AND
TRANSFER
CASE
J-7
SUBJECT
PAR.
DISASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-8, J-12, J-16
Transmission
Cleaning and
Inspection J-10, J-18
Transmission
Interlocking Sleeve Inspection J-9
REASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-ll,
J-14, J-19
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
J-20
TRANSMISSION
SPECIFICATIONS
J-21
J-1.
GENERAL
A
three speed synchromesh transmission is standard
equipment on all 'Jeep' Universal vehicles.
The
models T90 and T96 transmissions are used
with
the
Hurricane
F4 engine, and models
T86AA
and
T14A transmissions are used with the Daunt
less
V-6 engine. All model transmissions are similar
in
design with exception of the T14A which is a
fully
synchronized (all forward gears) transmission
with
helical drive gears throughout.
The
transmission assembly is attached to the
rear
face of the flywheel bell housing and is supported on a rubber insulator at the frame center cross member which forms the
rear
engine
support.
All
4-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a
transfer
case attached to the
rear
of the transmission.
Transfer
case service and repair procedures
are
described in Section
K.
Models
CJ-5A,
and
CJ-6A
are equipped with the
same transmission, but with a remote control shift.
Models DJ-5 and DJ-6 are equipped with a similar
transmission,
however, the construction is
some
what different because it is not designed to receive a transfer case for four-wheel drive.
For
DJ-5 and DJ-6 2WD vehicles, the trans mission repair procedures begin with Par. J-12.
J-2.
TRANSMISSION SHIFTING CONTROL
The
shift of the three-speed transmission is smooth
and
positive. The cane control lever shifts the trans
mission gears direct from the shift control housing
mounted to the top side of the transmission housing.
The
remote control lever shifts the transmission
gears through remote control rods attached to the
adjusting
levers of the shift shafts protruding from the left side of the transmission housing. Poppet
balls and springs retain the transmission gears in mesh and an interlocking mechanism prevents
shifting into two gears at the same time.
J-3.
Transmission Remote Control Adjustment
•
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A
First
disconnect the transmission shift rods from the remote control levers.
Check
for binding of
the remote control shaft on the steering column
and
make the necessary corrections to eliminate any binding condition.
If
the shift is not smooth and positive, first make
sure
the gears are in neutral position then remove
the shift rods at the transmission by removing
clevis pins, Fig. J-l No. 17, and slip a short piece
of snug fitting 34" [6,35 mm.] aligning rod, through
the gearshift levers and housing as shown in insert
drawing.
This
places the clutch and shift lever assemblies
in
the neutral position. Adjust the shift rod yokes
at the transmission end, so clevis pins can be in stalled freely without moving the shift levers on the
transmission after which remove alignment pin.
If
shifting from first to second is difficult or trans
mission hangs in first gear, shorten the low and
reverse shift rod one
turn
at a time until the con
dition is corrected. Usually three turns are re
quired.
Should
the fault continue after completing the above adjustment, check further as outlined below.
First
remove the lubricating fitting. Use a narrow
feeler
gauge
which
will
enter the opening for the
lubricator
and check the clearance
between
the
faces of the shifting clutches.
This
clearance should
be .015" to .031", [W to W]
[0,397-0,794
mm.]. If
this clearance is greater the assembly must be removed for adjustment. The shift dog, which
engages
the clutch slots, should not have more than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance in the slots. If the clear
ance
between
the clutch
grooves
and cross pins is
too great,
these
parts must be replaced.
J-4.
Removal
of
Remote Control
m
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A
•
Refer to Fig. J-l
To
remove the remote control the following pro cedure is
suggested:
a.
Remove shifting rods from the transmission
and
also from the steering remote control clutch levers. 239
Page 277 of 376
'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
m
FRONT fiXLE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL.
M-l
4-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT
AXLE.
M-2
Maintenance
Requirements M-3
FRONT AXLE REMOVAL
.M-4
AXLE
SHAFT REMOVAL
M-5
REMOVING
AND
OVERHAULING
DIFFERENTIAL
.M-6
AXLE
SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT SERVICE
M-7
STEERING
KNUCKLE SERVICE
M-8
Replacing
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal M-10
M-1. GENERAL
The
front axle for all 'Jeep* Universal models,
which
have 4-wheel drive, is described in
Par.
M-2.
The
front axle for all DJ-5, DJ-6 models, which
have 2-wheel drive, is described in
Par.
M-l5.
M-2. 4-WHEEL-DRIVE FRONT AXLE
The
front axle is a live driving unit with hypoid
type
driving gears and spherical steering knuckles mounted m pivot pins which ride on tapered roller bearings for
ease
of steering. The drive is of the
full
floating
type
through axle shafts built integrally
with
cardan cross universal joints which revolve in the steering knuckles. The steering knuckle tie rod
arm
is made integrally with the knuckle. The
knuckles
are connected by a divided tie rod to a steering bell
crank.
A steering connecting rod con
nects
the bell
crank
to the steering gear arm. The
divided
tie rod is adjustable and the
toe-in
of each
front wheel is adjusted independently.
Camber
and
SUBJECT
PAR.
REASSEMBLY
AND
BEARING PRELOAD
M-9
AXLE
SHAFT INSTALLATION
M-ll
FRONT AXLE INSTALLATION........
.M-l2
Turning
Angle Adjustment . .M-14
Steering
Tie Rod and
Beilcrank
M-l3
2-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT AXLE
M-15
Removal
of Solid
Front
Axle M-l6
Steering
Knuckle
Service M-l7
Steering
Knuckle
Pin Replacement. ......M-l8
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
M-19
AXLE
SPECIFICATIONS.
M-20
caster
of the front
wheels
is preset.
Camber
cannot
be altered but caster can be adjusted by installing
caster
shims
between
the axle pad and the springs.
For
information on the steering
geometry
see
"Steering
Section."
Service
procedures given in this section include
the removal, installation, disassembly and assembly
of the Model
27AF
front axle assembly, the axle
shafts, steering knuckles, and
universal
joints.
Note:
All service replacement axle assemblies are
shipped from the factory without lubricant in the
differential.
Lubricant
must be added; use grade
and
quantity as specified in the lubrication chart (Section B).
M-3.
Maintenance Requirements
A
spring-loaded breather is located on the top of
the differential housing.
Each
time the differential
lubricant
is checked, the breather should be
Page 278 of 376
M
FRONT
AXLE
1— Nut
2—
Lock
Washer
3—
Bearing
Lock
Washer
4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup 5—
Cone
and Rollers
6—
Oil
Seal 7— Spindle
8— Spindle Bushing
9—
Filler
Plug
10—
Right
Knuckle and Arm
11— Shims
12— Pivot Pin
13—
Lock
Washer
14—
Cap
Screw
15— Nut
16—
Washer
17—
Universal
Joint Yoke
18—
Oil
Seal
19—
Oil
Slinger
FIG.
M-2—FRONT
AXLE
20—
Cone
and Rollers
21—
Bearing
Cup
22—
Right
Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
23—
Knuckle
Oil Seal Retainer
24— Housing Breather 25—
Front
Axle Housing
26—
Axle
Shaft with Universal Joint
27—
Oil
Seal
28—
Axle
Shaft Guide
29—
Shim
Pack
30—
Bearing
Cup
31—
Cone
and Rollers
32—
Ring
Gear
and Pinion
33—
Thrust
Washer
34—
Thrust
Washer
35—
Differential
Gears
36— Housing Cover Gasket
37— Housing Cover
38—
Fill
Plug 39—
Screw
and
Lock
Washer
40—
Bearing
Cup
41—
Cone
and Rollers
42— Shims
43—
Lock
Pin
44—
Pinion
Shaft
45—
Differential
Case
47— Bolts
48— Nut
49—
Oil
Seal and Backing Ring
50—
Thrust
Washer
51— Snap Ring
52— Stop Bolt
53— Nut 54—
Bearing
Cup
55—
Cone
and Rollers
56—
Gasket
checked, making sure it is clean and open.
The
front wheel bearings should be checked every
12,000
miles. Refer to Section Q. Front wheel toe-
in
is adjustable by lengthening or shortening the
tie rod. However, standard caster and camber of
the front
wheels
are built
into
the axle. Wheel
caster can be adjusted by placing tapered shim
plates or
wedges
between
the springs and spring
seats
welded to the axle housing. Steering
geometry
and
front wheel adjustments are discussed in Sec tion O.
The
axle housing should be checked periodically
for weld cracks and/or other damage that may cause misalignment of the front
wheels
or
loss
of lubricant. The spring clips (U-bolts) should be
inspected and torqued every
12,000
miles. Torque (spring clip) nuts 45 to 50 lb-ft. [6,2 a 6,9 kg-m.].
M-4. FRONT
AXLE
REMOVAL
a.
Raise front end of vehicle
arid
safely support the frame by placing stands under the frame at
the rear of the front spring rear hangers.
b. Place
jack
under front axle housing and relieve
axle
weight
from the springs.
c. Disconnect shock absorbers from spring clip plates.
FIG.
M-3—HUB
CAP
PULLER
d.
Disconnect steering link from tie rod socket-
joint assembly.
e. Disconnect hydraulic brake
hoses
from front
brake
lines. Disconnect
hoses
from frame brackets. 278
Page 282 of 376
FRONT
AXLE
FIG.
M-l
1—FRONT
STEERING
KNUCKLE
(With
Spicer Universal Joint)
1—
Wheel
Hub Cap
2—
Driving
Flange Cap Screw
3—
Axle
Shaft Drive Flange Gasket 4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup
5—
Front
Wheel Spindle
6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Front
Brake
Cylinder
8—
Brake
Backing Plate
9—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap
10—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11—
Pivot
Pin 12—
Pivot
Bearing Adjusting Shims
13—
Pivot
Pin Cone and Rollers
14—
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal 15—
Front
Axle Universal Joint
16—
Thrust
Washer
17—
Brake
Backing Plate Screw
18—
Brake
Shoe and
Lining
19—
Hub
Oil Seal
20—
Wheel
Hub Bolt Nut
21—
Wheel
Bearing Cone and Rollers 22—
Wheel
Bearing Washer
23—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
24—
Wheel
Adjusting Nut
Lock
Washer
25—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
26—
Snap
Ring
c.
Install
the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d.
Install
brake backing plate.
e.
Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil
seal.
Install
the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing
spindle.
Install
the wheel bearing washer
and
adjusting nut. Tighten nut with
Wrench
W-144
as shown in
Fig.
M-5, until there is a slight drag on the bearings when the hub is turned.
Then
back off approximately one-sixth of a
turn.
Install
lock
washer
and nut, tightening nut
into
place, and then bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f.
Install
drive
flange
and gasket on hub and attach
with
six cap screws and lock washers.
Install
snap
ring
on outer end of axle shaft.
g.
Install
hub cap.
h.
Install
the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i.
If
tube
was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P), and lubricate front axle
universal
joints (Section B).
M-12.
FRONT
AXLE
INSTALLATION
To
install the front axle, reverse the procedures described in
Par.
M-4 and then perform the follow
ing operations:
a.
Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).
b.
Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P).
c.
Check
axle lubricant level and
fill
as necessary, (see Section B).
d.
Check
front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e.
Check
wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13.
Steering
Tie Rod and
Bell Crank
These
parts of the front axle are covered in Sec
tion O.
M-14.
4-Wheel Drive
Turning
Angle
Adjustment
and service information regarding
turning
angles
is covered in Section O.
M-15.
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
FRONT
AXLE
The
front axle is of the reverse
Elliot
type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and ma
chined
to
close
limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through
openings
at each end of the
"I"
beam and are locked securely
in
position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles
ride
on
ball
thrust bearings for
ease
of steering. See
Figs.
M-12, M-13.
The
knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on
ball
and socket connections. The tie
rod
is adjustable to secure correct
toe-in
of the front wheels. A steering connecting rod
connects
the
left
knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.
Standard
caster and camber of the front
wheels
are
built
into
the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by
placing
tapered shims or
wedges
between
the
springs and spring seats. For
complete
information
regarding
the steering
geometry
refer to the
Section O.
M-16.
Removal of Solid
Front
Axle
Note:
The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These
variations
are
noted
in the following procedure.
a. -
Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely support the frame behind the springs.
b.
Remove the
wheels
by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.
c.
Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball
and socket connection on the steering knuckle. 282
Page 284 of 376
M
FRONT
AXLE
from
the spring shackles by removing the lower
spring
shackle bolts.
Lower
the front springs to the floor and slide the axle assembly from underneath the vehicle.
M-17. STEERING KNUCKLE SERVICE
The
following procedures are given for steering
knuckle
service when the axle is installed on the vehicle.
With
the axle removed, eliminate the ap
propriate
steps.
M-18.
Steering
Knuckle
Pin Replacement
Refer
to
Figs.
M-12, M-13.
The
only parts of the front axle, subjected to weir
which
may require replacement are the steering
knuckle
pins and bushings. To accomplish this re placement follow the procedure outlined below.
a.
Jack
up the front of the vehicle to free the
wheels.
Install
axle stands under the front axle for safety.
b.
Remove the hub cap and dust cap.
c.
Remove the wheel retaining cotter pin, nut,
and
washer.
d.
Remove the wheel with hub, bearings, and oil
retainer.
e. Disconnect the hydraulic brake tube.
f. Remove the brake backing plate. g. Remove the tapered steering knuckle pin lock.
h.
Remove the upper steering knuckle expansion
plug on early models, or the lock spring on late models.
i.
Drive the Steering
Kunckle
Pin and lower ex
pansion plug out through the bottom. When the
spindle is disassembled, do not
lose
the spacing
shim
between
the upper face of the axle and the spindle.
j.
Remove the thrust bearing and bushings,
k.
Assemble in reverse order. Be sure the oil
holes
in
the bushings are aligned with the lubrication fittings.
Ream
the bushings for running clearance
with
the steering knuckle pin.
Check
the thrust
bearing
to be sure it is not worn or damaged. When
installing
the steering knuckle pin, align the notch
for the tapered retaining pin with the pin hole.
When
assembling the knuckle, guard against lost motion
between
the axle and inner face of the
knuckle.
Adjustment is made by selective fitting
of the spacing shim
between
the upper face of the
axle and the inner face of the knuckle. Shims are
available
in the following thicknesses:
.011" [0,279 mm.] .035* [0,889 mm.] .033* [0,838 mm.]
Do not overlook bleeding the brakes after the axle
end has been reassembled. 284
Page 313 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
STEERING SYSTEM
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL......
O-l
Camber
Adjustment 0-9
Caster
Adjustment. .0-10
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments.....
.
0-6
Front
Wheel Shimmy 0-13
Front
Wheel Turning Angle Oil
Steering Knuckle Arm O-l2
Steering
Gear
Function 0-2
Steering Linkage 0-3
Toe-in
Adjustment 0-7, 8
STEERING LINKAGE SERVICE..
O-l4
Drag
Link
or Connecting Rod O-l5
Tie
Rod 0-16
Tie
Rod Removal.. O-l7
Beilcrank
Service O-l8
SUBJECT
PAR.
STEERING GEAR SERVICE
.0-22 Reassembly of Steering
Gear
0-25 Disassembly of Steering
Gear
0-24 Installation of Steering
Gear
0-26
Removal
of Steering
Gear
0-23
Steering
Gear
Adjustment. . 0-5
STEERING
COLUMN
AND
WHEEL SERVICE.
..................
.0-20
Steering Column Adjustments 0-4
Steering Wheel Installation 0-27
Steering Wheel Removal 0-21
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. 0-28
SPECIFICATIONS.
.0-29
<§>-
i©1
CJ-3B
0
0 0
®
1—
Frame
Cross Tube
(CJ-3B)
2— Steering Beilcrank Bracket
(CJ-3B)
3—
Steering Beilcrank
4—
Front
Axle Assembly 5— Steering Connecting Rod (Drag
Link)
6— Steering
Gear
Arm
7—
Steering
Gear
8—
Left
Steering Knuckle and Arm
9—
Left
Shaft and Universal Joint
FIG.
O-l—STEERING LINKAGE
10—
Left
Tie Rod Socket 11—
Left
Steering Tie Rod
12—
Left
Tie Rod Socket 13—
Right
Tie Rod Socket
14—
Beilcrank
Nut
15—
Washer
16— Bolt 17—
Beilcrank
Bearing 18—
Bearing
Spacer
(Early
Model) 19—
Washer
20—
Beilcrank
Shaft
21—
Bearing
Seal
22— Nut
23—
Lockwasher
24—
Right
Steering Tie Rod 25—
Right
Shaft and Universal Joint 26—
Right
Steering Knuckle and Arm 313
Page 314 of 376
STEERING
SYSTEM
O-L
GENERAL
The
steering system on all Jeep Universal vehicles
consists of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering column and shaft, and steering linkage.
This
section covers wheel alignment, steering linkage,
steering gear, steering column and steering wheel.
0-2. Steering
Gear
Function
The
steering gear is a reducing gear. It exchanges a
relatively
large amount of movement with a small force (applied by the driver at the steering wheel), for a much smaller amount of movement with a
greatly increased force through a cam and lever
action type steering gear. The steering gear ratio is 17.9 to 1 on vehicles equipped with the F4
engine
and
19 to 1 with the V6 engine.
0-3. Steering
Linkage
Refer
to Fig. O-l.
The
steering linkage consists of a steering arm at
tached to the steering gear, a steering connecting
rod,
(drag
link),
connecting the steering arm to the
beilcrank,
and a steering tie rod connecting the
beilcrank
to the axle tie rod. The beilcrank pivots
on a pin mounted just to the left of the frame front crossmember. The steering tie rod is connected to
the beilcrank and
extends
to the right
ball
joint as sembly of tie rod. The tie rod
extends
to the wheels,
being connected to their respective steering knuckle
arms
at the wheels.
With
this linkage arrangement,
as the steering arm
moves
rearward,
the front
wheels
turn
to the left. As the steering arm
moves
forward,
the wheels
turn
to the right.
Ball
joints are used to secure the drag
link,
steering
connecting rod and tie rod ends. The
ball
joints
assist in maintaining
good
steering control and con
stant toe-in of the front wheels under all driving conditions. If the
ball
joints
become
worn enough
to allow free motion in the linkage, they should be,
replaced.
Note:
Ball
joint replacement of the tie rod requires
resetting of the wheel toe-in adjustment.
0-4.
Steering
Column
and Gear
Alignment
When
adjusting a steering gear remove all loads
from
the unit by disconnecting the steering con
necting rod (drag
link)
from the steering arm and
also
loosen
the instrument panel bracket and the
steering gear to frame
bolts
to allow the steering
post
to correctly align itself. When retightening the
steering gear to frame
bolts
use a torque wrench
pull
of 45 to 55 lb-ft. [6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.] on the
Vk*
bolts
and 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,15 a 5,5 kg-m.] on the
Vs"
bolts. 10811
FIG.
0-2—STEERING
GEAR
1—Nut
2
—Lockwasher
3—
Steering
Gear
Arm 4—
Lever
Shaft Oil Seal
5—
Outer
Housing Bushing
6—
Inner
Housing Bushing 7—
Filler
Plug
8—
Cover
and Tube
9—
Ball
Retaining
Ring
10—Cup
11—
Ball
(Steel)
12—
Tube
and Cam
13—
Shims
14—
Upper
Cover
15—
Lockwasher
16—
Bolt
17—
Steering
Wheel 18—
Horn
Button Retainer
19—
Horn
Button
20—
Horn
Button Cap 21— Nut
22—
Spring
23—
Spring
Seat
24—
Bearing
25—
Horn
Cable
26—
Horn
Button Spring
27—
Spring
Cup
28—
Steering Column
29—
Oil
Hole
Cover
30—
Clamp
31—
Adjusting
Screw
32— Nut
33—
Bolt
34—
Side
Cover
35—
Gasket
36—
Shaft
and
Lever
37—
Housing
314
Page 315 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not
properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur
ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in
Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves
the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.
Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjustment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the
cam
groove.
Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.
Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.
Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove
is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the
adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.
Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer ing arm.
The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the
straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This
feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal
straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else
where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:
a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align
ment.
c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.
d.
Check
wheel runout.
e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.
h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.
i.
Check
caster,
j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.
I.
Check
camber.
m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,
n.
Check
frame alignment.
The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There
fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are
all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.
Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satisfactory tire life.
The
most important factors of front wheel alignment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.
Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer
together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out
ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or
rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve
hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.
These
points should be checked at regular inter
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and
knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when
checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off
set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315
Page 316 of 376
o
STEERING SYSTEM
FIG.
0-3—FRONT
WHEEL
TOE-IN
1—
Toe-in
Angle
2—
Vertical
Line
In
the absence of a wheel aligning fixture, toe-in
may
be set by measuring
between
the front wheels
at the
edge
of the rim, at the flange or at the tire
tread
center. When making this adjustment the
wheels must be in a straight ahead position.
It
is highly important that toe-in be checked regu
larly
and if found to be out of adjustment, correc tion should be made immediately.
The
correct toe-in of
these
models is found in the
specifications at the end of this section.
0-8. Toe-in Adjustment
The
toe-in may be adjusted with a line or straight
edge
as the vehicle tread is the same in front and
rear.
To set the adjustment both tie rods must be
adjusted
as outlined below:
Set the tie rod end of the steering bell-crank at
right
angles with the front axle. Place a straight
edge
or line against the left
rear
wheel and left front wheel to determine if the wheel is in a straight
ahead
position. If the front wheel tire
does
not touch the straight
edge
at both the front and
rear,
it
will
be necessary to adjust the left tie rod by loosening the clamps on each end and turning the
rod
until the tire touches the straight
edge.
Check
the right hand side in the same manner, ad
justing
the tie rod if necessary, making sure that the bell-crank remains at right angles to the axle.
When
it is determined that the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, set the toe-in by short
ening each tie rod approximately one-half
turn.
0-9.
Front
Wheel
Camber
The
purpose of camber Fig. 0-4, is to more nearly
place the weight of the vehicle over the tire con tact on the road to facilitate
ease
of steering.
The
result of excessive camber is irregular wear of
tires on outside shoulders and is usually caused by
bent axle parts.
The
result of negative or reverse camber, if ex
cessive,
will
be
hard
steering and possibly a wan
dering
condition.
Tires
will
also wear on inside shoulders. Negative camber is usually caused by
excessive wear or
looseness
of front wheel bearings, axle parts or the result of a sagging axle.
Unequal
camber may cause any or a combination
of the following conditions: unstable steering, wan- 11894-
FIG.
0-4—WHEEL CAMBER
1—Vertical
Line
2—Camber Angle
dering,
kick-back or road shock, shimmy or exces
sive tire wear. The cause of unequal camber is usu
ally
a bent steering knuckle or axle end.
Correct
wheel camber is set in the axle at the time
of manufacture and cannot be altered by any ad
justment. It is important that the camber be the same on both front wheels. Heating of any of
these
parts
to facilitate straightening usually destroys
the heat treatment given them at the factory.
Cold
bending may cause a fracture of the steel and is also
unsafe. Replacement with new parts is recom mended rather than any straightening of damaged
parts.
O-10.
Axle
Caster Caster
angle is established in the axle design by
tilting the top of the kingpin toward the
rear
and
the
bottom
of the kingpin forward so that an
imaginary
line through the center of the kingpin
would strike the ground at a point ahead of the point of tire contact.
FIG.
0-5—AXLE
CASTER
1—
Vertical
Line
2—
Caster
Angle
316
Page 317 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of
caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be
incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new
parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle
pad
and the springs.
If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check
may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly
inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it
can
usually be accomplished by installing shims
between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the outside wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel
frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to
turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king
pins.
To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607
FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.
The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a
turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and
right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to
loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.
The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.
0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm
Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the
knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below
will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:
a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.
b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.
c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.
Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble
and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.
d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one
man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or
looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.
g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.
h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken
spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring
clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and
loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bobbing of the front end.
i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not
drag.
j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317