air condition JEEP DJ 1953 User Guide

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
straight
in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly

with
a hammer until it
bottoms.

d.
When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the
bolts
evenly in each cap to
pull
it into place
without bending the
dowels
or distorting the
bearing
cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspec­ tion
and
possible
repair,
but which are directly
related
to other
engine
components (such as tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and

oil
pump) are covered later in this section.

D-35.
Cylinder
Bores

The
cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or
reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect
crank­

shaft
journals
and other
engine
parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.

Both
honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done
carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use

a
finishing
hone
to remove the glaze. Reboring the cylinders must not be attempted unless ade­
quate facilities and experienced service technicians
are
available. The amount of material to be re­moved is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426
mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available
in the following oversizes.
.010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .040" [1,016 mm.}

The
largest cylinder bore
will
determine the over­
size to which all cylinders must be rebored, since the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper
engine
balance. The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from

standard.
Measure
the cylinder diameters by making mea­
surements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft
over entire piston travel and at
bottom

of cylinder. Proceed as follows:

a.
If bores are scored; if out-of-round
exceeds
.005
"
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";

or
if taper
exceeds
.005
"
on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring
and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.

Note:
If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381
mm.] for final honing.

All
cylinder bore diameters must be within .002
"
[0,0508
mm.] after reconditioning.

b.
If bore measurements are within the above

limits,
but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders should be honed with 250 grit
stone
hone. Pump
hone
up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched

pattern
approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit
stone

hone
or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
hone
or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched

pattern
previously mentioned.

d.
Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls,
wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply
a light coat of
engine
oil. If cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.

D-36.
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two com­ pression rings and one oil control
ring.
The pistons have an extra
groove
above the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulating
groove
to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring
groove

with
hard
carbon. The piston pin is secured by the lock screw.

The
pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the
engine
as assemblies. If cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings
will
have to be in­

stalled.

Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control
ring,
and the oil control ring expander from each piston. Do not remove the
bolts
from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the
bolts
are damaged.
Clamp
each connecting rod and piston assembly

in
a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin

lock
screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod.
Clean
all
carbon,
gum, and lacquer
deposits
from both the

inner
and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting

rod,
and piston pin. Use a ring
groove
cleaner or a
broken
ring filed to a sharp square
edge
to clean
the carbon from the piston ring
grooves
and the

insulator
groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the
grooves
or make
burrs
on ring
groove
surfaces. Run a length of wire through the

oil
spray
hole
near the lower end of the connecting

rod
to clear the
hole
of hardened oil
deposits
or
foreign matter.
Carefully
inspect the pistons and
replace
any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or
rounded on the
edges;
or if the piston is scored,

scratched,
or burned so seriously that the imperfec­
tions cannot be removed with a hand honing
stone

or
crocus cloth.

Replace
the pistons as follows:

a.
After cylinder bores have been carefully checked for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70
°F.
[21°C]
by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale

Tool
No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762
mm.] thickness
gauge
%" [19 mm.] wide.

The
piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The
gauge
must extend the
full
length of the piston on the thrust side
(opposite

side from slot in piston
skirt).
Scale should register
5
to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.]
pull
to remove the
thickness
gauge
from
between
cylinder
wall
and piston. Excessive
pull
indicates need for a slightly

smaller
piston or additional honing of cylinder. In­ sufficient
pull
indicates need for fitting a larger piston. 47

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

10444

FIG.
D-14—PISTON
RING INSTALLATION D-37.
Piston Ring Application Chart

Cylinder
Bora
Ovtrsiie
Correct

Ring
Size
Ring
Gap

Fitting
End
Gap

Std.
te .009'

[•0,228
mm.]
Std.

None
.007' to
.045'
[0,1778 a
1.1430
mm.]

.010*
to .019'

[0,254
a
0,4826
mm.)
-.020'

File
fit .007'
to
.017'
[0,1778 a 0,4318 mm.]
.020'
to
.024'
[0,508 a
0,6096
mm.] -.020'

None
.007' to .029*
[0,1778 a
0,7366
mm.]
.025'
to
.029'
[0,635 a
0,7366
mm.] -.030'

File
fit

.007'
to .017*
.030' to .034*
[0,762 a
0,8636
mm.] -.030'

None
.007'to
.029'

.038'to
.039'

[0,8890
a
0,9908
mm.] -.040*

File
fit
.007'
to .017'
.040' [1,016 mm.]
-.040*
None
.007'
to .017'

D-38.
Crankshaft

The
crankshaft is machined from a heat-treated

carbon
steel forging and is carefully balanced both
dynamically
and statically. The crankshaft is
supported by three replaceable main bearings. The
front main bearing is flanged to take the end
thrust
of the crankshaft. A flanged section on the

rear
of the crankshaft acts as an oil slinger. While the crankshaft is out of the engine, handle it care­

fully
to prevent damage to the connecting rod
crankpins
and the main bearing journals. Refer
to
Fig.
D-l5.

D-39.
Crankshaft Inspection
and
Repair

Clean
out the drilled oil passages in the crankshaft

journals
with a small rifle brush making sure to get rid of all sludge or gum deposits. Blow out the passages with compressed air after cleaning.
Clean
the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent. Inspect the crankshaft for
cracks,

alignment, and condition of the crankpins and the
main
bearing journals. Use magnafuix equipment,

if
available, to check for cracks or structural flaws.
Cracks,
misalignment, and scored or worn journals

and
crankpins necessitate crankshaft repair or replacement.

Check
crankshaft counterweights to be sure they
are
not
loose.

D-40.
Checking Crankshaft Alignment

To
check alignment, mount the crankshaft in the
cylinder
block with the front and
rear
bearings in
place but with the intermediate bearing removed.
With
a dial indicator mounted on the crankcase

and
the indicator button resting on the inter­mediate bearing
journal,
slowly rotate the
crank­

shaft and
note
the reading on the indicator
dial.
Install
the intermediate bearing and remove first
the front and then the
rear
bearings to repeat the operation with the dial indicator, checking the
front and
rear
bearing journals. The maximum allowable run-out is .002"
[0,0508
mm.].

D-41.
Checking Main Bearing Journals

An
ordinary 3" [7,62 cm.] micrometer may be used.
The
standard
journal
diameter is
2.334"
to 2.333" 50

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.

i.
Check
carburetor
adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head gaskets and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800

a
960 km.] of normal operation.

k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.

I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107.
VALVE
ADJUSTMENT

Proper
valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning
of valves and poor
engine
performance.

This
adjustment consists of obtaining a specified

lash
in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should be adjusted to the proper clearance with the
engine

cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE

OPENS

9°
BTC?

FIG.
D-43-
10270

-VALVE
TIMING
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure

The
exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as neces­
sary
to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is .016" [0,406 mm.]
between
the end of the adjusting
screw and the
bottom
of the exhaust valve.

Crank
the
engine
over to
close
a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler
gauge.
To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and
turn
the adjusting

screw,
with the other.
Check
and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.

Adjust
each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm
screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457 mm.] clearance
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109.
Check
Valve
Timing

To
check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to .026"
[0,6604
mm.]
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake stroke. The intake valve
opens
9° before top center
(BTC).
Note
the distance
between
the
"TC"
and
"5°"
marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See
Fig.
D-43.
With
the crankshaft in this position, timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct

running
clearance.
D-110. Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation

Be
sure there are no air leaks at the tube connec­
tions
between
the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,

and
that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in
good

condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the
engine
or grinding valves, remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If
the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system
will
not operate and, should the valve

fail
to seat, it
will
be impossible to make the
engine

idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
D-111. Oil
Filter

The
engine
is equipped with a throw-away type

oil
filter.
This
oil filter must be serviced periodi­
cally
as outlined in the
Lubrication
Section. 69

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12713

FIG.
Dl-11—MEASURING
TELESCOPE GAUGE
1—
Telescope
Gauge
2—
Micrometer

may
be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder
gauge
dial
at zero and meas­
uring
across the
gauge
contact points with an out­side micrometer while the
gauge
is at same zero
setting. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-10 and Dl-11.

b.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly

scored,
but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is

usually
possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard
service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored,
it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfac­
tory
results.

c.
If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]

or
more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or

more,
it is advisable to rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and rings.

d.
Carefully
inspect the cylinder block for small

cracks
or fractures, and for porosity.
Rust
in any
cylinder
bore may indicate a leak.

e.
Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and

burrs.
With
a straight
edge
and feeler
gauge,
check
each
machined surface for distortion.

D1-37.
Cylinder Block Repair
If
one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or

worn
beyond prescribed limits, it
will
be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.

If
relatively few bores require correction, it
will

not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain
engine
balance, since
all
oversize pistons are held to the same weights as

standard-size
pistons. If conditions justify replace­
ment of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.

Standard-size
service pistons are high-limit, or

maximum
diameter; therefore, they can usually be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been
done
to correct slight scoring or excessive

clearances.
This
applies
primarily
to
engines
which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are also furnished in .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize. All

service
pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.

Caution:
Do not attempt to cut down oversize pis­

tons
to fit cylinder bores as this
will
destroy the

surface
treatment and affect the weight. The small­
est possible oversize service pistons should be used

and
the cylinder bores should be honed to size

for
proper clearance.

Before
honing or reboring cylinders, measure all new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpen­

dicular
to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston

for
the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction
in case the first piston tried is too

small.

If
wear at top of cylinder
does
not exceed .005" [0,127 mm.]
excess
diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.

If
wear or out-of-round
exceeds
these
limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the

fly
cutter type, then finish-honed.

When
reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in
final
assem­
bly.
Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the

way
of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When
boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]

undersize,
then finish hone to obtain the required

clearance.

When
honing cylinders, use clean sharp
stones
of
proper
grade for the amount of metal to be re­
moved. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer.
Dull
or dirty
stones
cut unevenly

and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse

or
medium grade
stones,
leave sufficient metal so
that all
stone
marks can be removed with the fine
stones
used to finish-hone to proper clearance.

When
finish-honing, pass the hone through the entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately 60 cycles per minute.
This
should produce the

desired
45-degree
cross hatch pattern on cylinder

walls.
A proper pattern
will
ensure maximum
ring
life and minimum oil consumption.

After
final
honing and before the piston is checked

for
fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thor­ oughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean

with
a power-driven fibre
brush.
If all traces of

abrasive
are not removed,
rapid
wear of new pistons

and
rings
will
result.

Note:
Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white

cloth,
moistened with SAE 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this
test
shows no sign of
dirt.

It
is of the greatest importance that refinished

cylinder
bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or
less out-of-round or taper.
Each
bore must have

a
smooth surface, without
stone
or cutter
marks.
After
final
honing and cleaning, each piston must be fitted individually to the bore in which it
will

be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked
with its cylinder number to assure correct

installation.
85

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

FIG.
D1-28—CLEANING
OR
ENLARGING
VALVE
GUIDE

1—Reamer
d.
Measure clearance of each valve stem in cor­
responding valve guide. For intake valves, this
clearance
should be .0012" to .0032" [0,0305 a

0,0813
mm.]. For exhaust valves, this clearance should be .0015" to .0035"
[0,0381
a
0,0889
mm.]
at top of guide and .002" to .004"
[0,051
a 0,102 mm.] at bottom of guide. If this clearance is exces­
sive, valve guides must be reamed with .004" [0,102 mm.] oversized reamer J-5830-1 and valves

replaced
by new valves with oversize stems.

Dl-63.
Cylinder
Head
and Valve
Repair
a.
If a valve stem has excessive clearance in its
guide, the guide must be reamed .004" [0,102 mm.]
oversize. Valves are available with oversize stems
to fit this valve guide diameter.

b.
Grind
valve faces or replace valves if necessary.

Valve
faces must be ground at an angle of 45 degrees. If a valve head must be ground to a
knife
edge
to obtain a true face, the valve should
be replaced.

c.
If necessary, grind valve seats at an angle of 45 degrees.
Grinding
a valve seat decreases valve
spring
pressure and increases the width of the seat.

The
nominal width of the valve seat is
[
1,59
mm.].
If a valve seat is wider than %" [1,98 mm.]
after grinding, it should be narrowed to specified

width
by the use of 20-degree and 70-degree stones.
Improper
operation of a hydraulic valve lifter may

result
if valve and seat are refinished to the extent
that the valve stem is raised more than .050" [1,27 mm.] above normal height. In this case, it
is necessary to grind off the end of the valve stetti or replace parts.

Note:
The normal height of the valve stem above
the valve spring seat surface of the head is
1.925"
[4,889 cm.].

d.
Lightly
lap the valves into seats with fine grind­
ing compound. The refacing and reseating should
leave the refinished surfaces smooth and true so that a minimum of lapping
will
be required. Ex­
cessive lapping
will
groove the valve face and pre­
vent
good
valve seating.
e. Test valve seats for concentricity with guides,
and
for proper valve seating. Coat a small segment
of the valve face lightly with Prussian blue pig­ ment.. Insert the valve stem into its guide and

turn
the valve face against the seat. If the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide, a
mark

will
be made all around the seat. If the seat is not concentric with the guide, a
mark
will
be made
on only one side of the seat.

Clean
all pigment from both valve and seat. .Next,
coat a small segment of the valve seat lightly with

Prussian
blue pigment. Again insert the valve stem into its guide and rotate the valve face against the
seat. If the valve face is concentric with the valve
stem, and if the valve is seating all the way around,
pigment
will
coat the valve face with a uniform
band
around its entire perimeter. Both of
these

tests
are necessary to prove that proper valve seat­
ing is obtained.
f. Inspect the valve springs visually for corrosion,

breaks,
and distortion.
With
a valve spring tester
check
each valve spring for proper tension. When

a
valve spring is compressed to a length of
1.640"
[4,166 cm.] (closed-valve condition), it should
have a tension of 64 lb. [29,03 kg.]. When a valve
spring
is compressed to a length of
1.260"
[3,200
cm.] (open-valve condition), it should have ten­ sion of 168 lb. [76,205 kg.]. Replace any valve
spring
which is visibly damaged or
does
not
meet

tension specifications.

Dl-64.
Valve Installation

Lubricate
valve stems with engine oil.
Install
valves, valve springs, spring retainers, and valve

retainers
on the cylinder head. Use the same equipment and reverse procedure used for removal.

Install
valve springs with closely wound coils to­

ward
the cylinder head. Refer to Fig. Dl-29.
FIG.
Dl-29—VALVE
SPRING

1—
Spring

2—
Close
Wound
Coils
Toward
Head
94

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl
Dl-65.
Rocker Arm Cover Cleaning
and Inspection

a.
Clean
both rocker arm covers with suitable
cleaning solvent and dry thoroughly.

b.
Inspect each rocker arm cover visually for

scratches,
bends, dents, and tears. Replace cover

if
unserviceable.

Dl-66.
Timing Chain
and
Sprocket Inspection

Inspect
the timing chain and both sprockets for
damage or excessive wear. Replace unserviceable
parts.

Dl-67.
Timing Chain Cover Cleaning and Inspection

a.
Clean
the timing chain cover with suitable clean­
ing solvent and dry with compressed air.

b.
Inspect the cover visually for breaks,
cracks,
and
other damage.
With
a straightedge, check cylinder
block, water pump, and oil pump faces for bends

and
distortion.

c.
Install
oil pump gears in oil pump cavity of
timing gear cover.
With
a straightedge and feeler
gauge,
check gear and clearance. Refer to Fig.

Dl-30.
Clearance
should be
between
.0023"
[0,0584

mm.] and .0058"
[0,1358
mm.]. If it is lower
than
.0018" [0,0457 mm.], inspect thrust surfaces
of cover which touch gears for wear.

d.
Replace the timing chain cover if unserviceable.
FIG.
Dl-30—CHECKING
OIL
PUMP
GEAR

END
CLEARANCE

1—
Feeler
Gauge
2—
Straight
Edge

3—
Pump
Body
4—
Pump
Gears
Dl-63.
Oil Pump Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Clean
gears with suitable cleaning solvent and

dry
thoroughly. Inspect for wear, scoring, and other damage. Replace either or both gears if unservice­
able.

b.
Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap, spring

and
plunger. Refer to Fig. Dl-31. Oil filter bypass
valve plunger and spring are staked in place and should not be removed. 12719

FIG.
Dl-31—OIL
PUMP
PRESSURE
RELIEF
VALVE

1—
Valve
Cap
2—
Gasket

3—
Spring

4—Valve
5—
Oil
Pump
Cover
c.
Wash valve parts thoroughly. Inspect the relief
valve plunger for wear or scoring.
Check
the spring to see that it is not worn or collapsed. Replace any
relief
valve spring that is questionable. Thoroughly

clean
the screen staked in the cover.

d.
Insert the relief valve plunger into its bore in
the cover. The plunger should have no more clear­ ance than an easy slip fit. If there is any perceptible
sideways movement, the plunger and/or the cover should be replaced.
e.
Check
oil filter bypass valve plunger for
cracks,

nicks,
or warping. The plunger should be flat and free of nicks or scratches.
f.
Lubricate
and install pressure relief valve plung­
er
and spring in bore of oil pump cover.
Install

cap and gasket. Torque cap to 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.]. Do not over-tig1 n.

Note:
Pressure relief valve cap has no tapped
hole

for installation of oil pressure switch.

H1
-69.
Crankshaft Vibration
Damper
Inspection

Inspect
the crankshaft vibration damper for
cracked,
broken, distorted, or otherwise damaged
condition. If damaged, replace.

Dl-70.
Crankshaft Pulley Inspection

Inspect
the crankshaft pulley for damage or exces­
sive wear. Replace if visibly worn or damaged.

Dl-71.
ENGINE REASSEMBLY

The
engine
assembly procedure in the following
paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the assembly procedure. The assembly procedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the operations

will
not be required.

Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the
following assembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident, and the
engine
and its parts against damage. 95

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E

FIG.
E-3—FUEL EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM- HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
A—Side
View

1—
Charcoal Canister
2— Purge
Line

3—
Fuel
Tank
4—
Fuel
Filler
Hose 5—
Non-Vented
Gas Cap
B—Plan
View

6—
Vapor
Separator
or Expansion Tank 7—
Fuel
Gauge

8—
Fuel
Line-to-Fuel Pump

9—
p.C.V.
Crankcase
Valve

10—Fuel
Pump

crankcase
vent system. The charcoal canister in­
corporates an integral demand valve
which
regu­

lates
vapors entering the canister as
well
as a
limit
fill
valve
to control air trapping during tank
fill.
The
Fuel
Evaporative Emission Control System
incorporates the following new or modified parts:

E-3.
Canister
The canister used for the vapor control system has
provisions for containing activated charcoal gran­ ules. The material used for the canister body is a

special,
fuel resistant, heat stabilized nylon. At the top of the canister there is the demand valve which
has connections; one vents the vapor to the canister
while the other connection joins the canister to the purge system. These
tubes
enter the canister on

opposite
sides of a baffle which permits uniform
vapor distribution throughout the canister. The
bottom
of the canister is fitted with a filter element
that allows fuel tank venting to atmosphere after vapors are trapped in the activated charcoal.

E-4.
Demand Valve

The
demand valve is integral with the canister. It
is essenitally a combination pressure regulator and

vacuum
relief valve.
This
valve regulates the rate
of vapor
flowing
from the fuel tank into the canister.
The
valve consists of a housing, a spring loaded
diaphragm,
a diaphragm cover, and a vacuum

relief
valve. The operation of the unit is such that
as tank vent pressure increases the diaphragm lifts,
permitting vapor to enter the canister. The pres­
sure
under which this occurs is 4" to 6"
H2O.
This

action regulates the flow of vapors into the canister
under severe soak and operation conditions (temp, changes), but generally prohibits the flow of vapor 111