air condition JEEP DJ 1953 Workshop Manual

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
Note:
Pinion clearance cannot be adjusted. If
clearance is not correct, motor must be disassem­
bled and checked for the above mentioned defects.

Any
defective parts must be replaced.
H-118. Starting Motor Test —
Genera!

To
obtain
full
performance data on a starting motor, or to determine the cause of abnormal
operation, the motor should be submitted to no-
load and locked armature
tests,
with equipment designed for such
tests.
A high-current variable resistance is required to obtain the specified volt­
age at the starting motor.
This
is necessary since
a
small variation in the
voltage
will
produce a
marked
difference in the current
drawn.

H-119.
Starting Motor No-Load Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter capable of
read­

ing
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC ammeter

with
maximum range of several hundred amperes,
a
high-current variable resistance, an rpm. in­

dicator,
and a fully-charged, 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal
and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid.
Con­
nect voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (positive) and motor frame (negative, ground).

Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series

between
positive terminal of battery and battery

terminal
of solenoid. Set up rpm. indicator to show starting motor speed.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to a value of
approximately .25 ohm. To complete the
circuit,

connect negative terminal of battery to motor

frame.
Adjust variable resistance to obtain a volt­ meter reading of 10.6 volts;
note
speed of starting motor and ammeter reading. Motor speed should
be
6750
to
10,500
rpm.; ammeter reading should
be 50 to 80 amperes.
c. Rated speed and current indicate normal condi­
tion of the starting motor. Low speed and high
cur­
rent
may show friction; this could be caused by
tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent armature shaft,

or
a
loose
field
pole
shoe
dragging against the

armature.
It could also be caused by a short-cir­ cuited armature, or by grounded armature or field
coils.

d.
Failure
to operate and high current indicates

a
direct short circuit to ground at either the battery

terminal
or field coils.
e.
Failure
to operate and no current are usually
caused by broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation
between
commutator
bars,
or
some
other
condition preventing
good
contact
between
the brushes and commutator. It can also be caused by
open circuit in either the field coils or armature coils.
f. Low speed and low current show high resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty com­
mutator, or one of the conditions mentioned in e,
above.
g. High speed and high current indicates a short
circuit
in the field coils. H-120-
Locked
Armature Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter with range ap­

propriate
to read
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC
ammeter with maximum range of several hundred
amperes, a high-current variable resistance, a
clamping fixture to lock
together
the motor shaft

and
case, and a fully-charged 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect
voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (posi­
tive) and motor frame (negative, ground). Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series
between
positive terminal of battery and battery terminal
of solenoid.
Install
clamping fixture to lock motor
shaft and case
together
securely.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to approxi­
mately .05 ohm. To complete the
circuit,
connect
negative terminal of battery to motor frame. Ad­

just
variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter
read­
ing of 4.0 volts. Ammeter reading should be 280
to 320 amperes.

H-121.
Solenoid Starter Switch — Delco

The
solenoid-type switch is mounted directly on
the starting motor.
This
type of switch is energized
by turning the ignition key to the extreme right position. Should the solenoid switch
fail
in service

it
is necessary to install a new assembly.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the

starter
switch contacts due to corrosion or burning.

Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage
at the
battery across the terminals. The
voltage
drop
should not exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
In
order to remove the starter solenoid, it is neces­

sary
to remove the starter assembly.

H-122.
ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS

H-123.
Fuel
Gauge —
CJ-3B

The
fuel
gauge
circuit is composed of the indicating

unit,
mounted on the instrument panel, and the
fuel tank unit, connected by a single wire through the ignition switch.

Should
the
gauge
fail
to register, check all wire con­ nections to be sure they are tight and clean; also
be sure both units are well grounded. If, after this
check, the
gauge
does
not indicate properly, remove
the wire from the tank unit and connect it to a
new tank unit which must be grounded to the tank

or
frame for
test.
Turn
the ignition switch "ON"
and
move
the float arm through its range of travel,
watching the dash unit to determine if it indicates
correctly.
If it fails to do so the trouble is probably

in
the dash unit and it should be replaced.

Should
a new tank unit be unavailable for this
test,
disconnect tank unit wire at the instrument panel

gauge.
Connect one lead of a 12 V, 1 CP
test
light
to the instrument panel unit terminal and with the
ignition switch
"ON"
ground the other lead. If the
unit is operating correctly the pointer
will
move

approximately three-quarter across the
dial.
Do not attempt to repair either unit; replacement
is the only precedure. 211

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

J
THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
J-l
TRANSMISSION
SHIFTING
CONTROL.
. J-2
TRANSMISSION
REMOTE
CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
J-3

REMOTE
CONTROL
DISASSEMBLY
J-4

REMOTE
CONTROL
REASSEMBLY.
. . . . J-5
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
J-6

SEPARATING
TRANSMISSION
AND
TRANSFER
CASE
J-7
SUBJECT
PAR.

DISASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-8, J-12, J-16
Transmission
Cleaning and
Inspection J-10, J-18

Transmission
Interlocking Sleeve Inspection J-9

REASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-ll,
J-14, J-19

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
J-20

TRANSMISSION
SPECIFICATIONS
J-21
J-1.
GENERAL
A
three speed synchromesh transmission is standard
equipment on all 'Jeep' Universal vehicles.
The
models T90 and T96 transmissions are used

with
the
Hurricane
F4 engine, and models
T86AA
and
T14A transmissions are used with the Daunt­
less
V-6 engine. All model transmissions are similar

in
design with exception of the T14A which is a

fully
synchronized (all forward gears) transmission

with
helical drive gears throughout.
The
transmission assembly is attached to the
rear

face of the flywheel bell housing and is supported on a rubber insulator at the frame center cross member which forms the
rear
engine
support.

All
4-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a
transfer
case attached to the
rear
of the trans­mission.
Transfer
case service and repair procedures

are
described in Section
K.

Models
CJ-5A,
and
CJ-6A
are equipped with the
same transmission, but with a remote control shift.
Models DJ-5 and DJ-6 are equipped with a similar

transmission,
however, the construction is
some­
what different because it is not designed to receive a transfer case for four-wheel drive.

For
DJ-5 and DJ-6 2WD vehicles, the trans­ mission repair procedures begin with Par. J-12.
J-2.
TRANSMISSION SHIFTING CONTROL
The
shift of the three-speed transmission is smooth

and
positive. The cane control lever shifts the trans­
mission gears direct from the shift control housing
mounted to the top side of the transmission housing.

The
remote control lever shifts the transmission
gears through remote control rods attached to the

adjusting
levers of the shift shafts protruding from the left side of the transmission housing. Poppet
balls and springs retain the transmission gears in mesh and an interlocking mechanism prevents
shifting into two gears at the same time.
J-3.
Transmission Remote Control Adjustment
•
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A

First
disconnect the transmission shift rods from the remote control levers.
Check
for binding of
the remote control shaft on the steering column

and
make the necessary corrections to eliminate any binding condition.

If
the shift is not smooth and positive, first make

sure
the gears are in neutral position then remove
the shift rods at the transmission by removing
clevis pins, Fig. J-l No. 17, and slip a short piece
of snug fitting 34" [6,35 mm.] aligning rod, through
the gearshift levers and housing as shown in insert
drawing.

This
places the clutch and shift lever assemblies

in
the neutral position. Adjust the shift rod yokes
at the transmission end, so clevis pins can be in­ stalled freely without moving the shift levers on the
transmission after which remove alignment pin.
If
shifting from first to second is difficult or trans­
mission hangs in first gear, shorten the low and
reverse shift rod one
turn
at a time until the con­
dition is corrected. Usually three turns are re­

quired.

Should
the fault continue after completing the above adjustment, check further as outlined below.

First
remove the lubricating fitting. Use a narrow
feeler
gauge
which
will
enter the opening for the
lubricator
and check the clearance
between
the
faces of the shifting clutches.
This
clearance should
be .015" to .031", [W to W]
[0,397-0,794
mm.]. If
this clearance is greater the assembly must be removed for adjustment. The shift dog, which

engages
the clutch slots, should not have more than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance in the slots. If the clear­
ance
between
the clutch
grooves
and cross pins is
too great,
these
parts must be replaced.
J-4.
Removal
of
Remote Control
m
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A

•
Refer to Fig. J-l

To
remove the remote control the following pro­ cedure is
suggested:

a.
Remove shifting rods from the transmission

and
also from the steering remote control clutch levers. 239

THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

FIG.
J-l—TRANSMISSION

REMOTE
CONTROL
CJ-5
A,
CJ-6A

1— Stop Screw
2—
Bias
Spring

3—
Gearshift
Lever
4—
Lever
Ball

5—
Steering
Wheel 6—
Horn
Button 7—
Column
and Bearing
8—
End
Huts
9—
Shift
Rod
Ends

10—
Shift
Rod
11—
Shift
Rod
12—
Cross-Shift
Bracket

13—
Control
Shaft
14—
Lubrication
Fitting
15—
Lever
and
Clutch

16—
Adjusting
Yoke

17—
Aligning
Rod 11706

b.
Remove gearshift lever fulcrum pin and the
gearshift lever.

c.
Remove plates on the toe board at the steer­
ing
post.

d.
Remove two screws holding remote control
housing to the steering
post
and lift the housing
from
the positioning pin.

e.
Remove the assembly down through the floor
pan.

f. Remove the lower clutch and shift lever from the housing by turning counterclockwise.
g. Remove upper clutch and shift lever in the same

manner.

h. Wash all parts in a suitable cleaning solution.

J-5.
Reassembly of
Remote
Control
•
Refer to
Fig.
J-l

Check
clearance of shift dog which
engages
in slot
of clutches, and if found to be greater than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance, replace the worn parts.
Assemble upper clutch lever assembly in housing
making
sure that the alignment
hole
in the housing
faces toward the engine.
Turn
the upper lever as­
sembly in as far as it
will
go and then back off one

full
turn
until the
hole
in the clutch lever aligns

with
hole
in the housing.
Assemble the lower clutch lever assembly in hous­ ing until faces of clutches contact then back off
not more than one-half
turn
which should bring
the aligning
hole
in the lever in line with the
hole
in
the housing. If the one-half
turn
does
not bring
the alignment
hole
in proper position, it
will
be
necessary to grind off (square with axis not to exceed .015") [0,397 mm.] the face of the lower

clutch;
in other words, backing off not more than
one-half
turn
from face to face contact
gives
the

proper
clearance of .015" to .031"
[0,397-0,794
mm.]

between
the two clutches.
Assemble the unit to the steering
post
in reverse

order
of dismantling and adjust remote control

rods.
After
assembly, if the shift dog catches on the
edge

of the slot in the clutch when moving the lever up

and
down, disconnect the shift rod at the
transmission
end and either lengthen or shorten it
slightly to correct this condition.

J-6.
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
The
following repair procedures given in Par. J-7
through J-ll for the standard
3-speed
transmission
apply
in general to all models listed. Minor dif­
ferences
between
models that affect the procedure

are
noted. Procedure for the optional
4-speed
trans­mission
begins
with Section
J-l.

Removal
is as follows:

a.
Drain
the transmission and transfer case. Re­ place the
drain
plugs.

b.
Remove the floor pan inspection plate.

c.
Remove the shift lever and shift housing as­ sembly and its gasket from the transmission. On 240

L

PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS

move
the snap rings, pinch the ends
together
with

a
pair
of pliers. If the rings do not readily snap
out of the groove, tap the end of the bearing lightly
which
will
relieve pressure against the rings.
After
removing the snap rings, press on the end of
one bearing until the
opposite
bearing is pushed
from
the yoke arm.
Turn
the joint over and press
the first bearing back out of that arm by pressing
on the
exposed
end of the
journal
shaft. Use a
soft
ground drift with a flat face about [0,8 mm.]

smaller
in diameter than the
hole
in the yoke arm
and
drive it out, otherwise there is danger of damag­ing the bearing.

Repeat
this operation for the other two bearings,
then lift out
journal
assembly by sliding it to one
side.

L-4.
Snap
Ring
Type Assembly

Wash
all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parte
after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive
wear.
It is advisable to install new gaskets
on the
journal
assembly regardless of the condition of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease

channel
in each
journal
trunnion is open.

Pack
the bearing
cones
one-third
full
of lubricant
and
install the rollers.
Draw
the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold
the bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles
from dropping out until the joint is as­ sembled. If the joint binds when assembled, tap
the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the bear­
ings at the end of the
journal.

L-5.
U-Bolt
Type Disassembly

Removal
of the attaching "U"-bolt releases one set
of bearing races. Slide the propeller shaft into the
yoke flange to remove them using care not to
lose
the rollers.
After
the removal of the one set of bearing races,
release the other set by removing the snap rings

in
the
sleeve
yoke by pinching the ends
together

with
a
pair
of pliers. Should the rings
fail
to snap
readily
from the groove, tap the end of the bearing
lightly,
which
will
relieve the pressure against them.

Press
on the end of one bearing, until the
opposite
bearing
is pushed out of the yoke arm.
Turn
the

universal
joint over and press the first bearing out
by pressing on the
exposed
end of the
journal
as­
sembly. Use a
soft
ground drift with a flat face about
\{i
[0,8 mm.] smaller in diameter than the
hole
in the yoke
arm
and drive out the bearing.
Lift

the
journal
out by sliding to one side.
Clean
all
parts
and check for wear.

L-6.
U-Bolt Type Assembly

Wash
all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parts
after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive
wear.
It is advisable to install new gaskets
on the
journal
assembly regardless of the condition
of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease
channel
in each
journal
trunnion is open.

Pack
the bearing
cones
one-third
full
of lubricant
and
install the rollers.
Draw
the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold the
bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles
from dropping out until the joint is as­
sembled. If the joint binds when assembled, tap the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the
bearings at the end of the
journal.
Tighten the
U-bolts equally. U-bolt torque wrench reading is 15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,76 kg-m.].

When
installing the assembly in the vehicle be sure
that the arrows on the propeller shaft and yoke

sleeve
are in alignment as shown in Fig. L-2, or
that the unmarked joints are aligned with the yokes in the same parallel plane.

SPECIFICATIONS

L-7.
PROPELLER
SHAFTS
AND
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
PROPELLER
SHAFTS:

Make
SPICER

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
Front

Rear

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
O.D.

Length

O.D.
Length

Dimensions:

F4
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5
A
— 3 Speed.
......
4 Speed

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed 4 Speed

CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6
Engine Vehicles:
CJ-5,
CJ-5A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
— 3 Speed.

CJ-5
— 4 Speed
1M"
[3,175 cm.]

1M*
[3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.]
1M*
[3,175 cm.] [3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.]

\W
[3,175 cm.] [3,175 cm.] 22^" [57,78 cm.]

28H"
[72,39 cm.]
22M*
[57,78 cm.]

mW
[72,39 cm.]

33He"
[85,57 cm.]

21W
[55,25 cm.]
21%"
[55,25 cm.]

2&* [68,10
cm.]
IK"
[4,45 cm.]

1M#
[4,45 cm.]

\%"
[4,45 cm.]

\%"
[4, 45cm.]

IW
[4,45 cm.]

1M*
[4,45 cm.]

3*
[7,62 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
l%" [4,45 cm.]
182£"
[45,95 cm.]
WW
[34,131
cm.]

3SJ4*
[97,79 cm.]

33%"
[84,69 cm.] 19546*
[50,64
cm.]
24^"
[61,60
cm.]

44M*
[112,40
cm.]

19%?
[50,64
cm.] 39* [99,06 cm.]

U%"
[37,47 cm.l

UNIVERSAL
JOINTS:
Make
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

Type
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

Bearing
Spicer

Cardan
Cross
Antifriction

276

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

M
M-19.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE
REMEDY

Hard Steering
Lack
of
Lubrication
Lubricate
Tires
Soft.
. Inflate

Tight
Steering. Adjust. See "Steering" Section

Low Speed Shimmy
or
Wheel Fight
Spring
Clips and Shackles Loose
Front
Axle Shifted Insufficient Toe-In

Improper
Caster
Steering System Loose or Worn
Twisted Axle

High Speed Shimmy
or
Wheel Fight
Check
Conditions Under "Low Speed Shimmy"

Tire
Pressures Low or not
Equal

Wheel Out of Balance
Wheel Runout
Radial
Runout of Tires
Wheel Camber
Front
Springs
Settled
or Broken
Bent Steering Knuckle
Arm..................

Shock Absorbers not Effective
Steering
Gear
Loose on Frame

Front
Springs too Flexible

Tramp
Wheels Unbalanced

Wandering
Improper
Toe-in

Broken
Front Spring Main
Leaf

Axle Shifted Loose Spring Shackles or Clips
Improper
Caster

Tire
Pressure Uneven
Tightness in Steering System
Loose Wheel Bearings
Front
Spring
Settled
or Broken
Axle
Noisy
on
Pull
Pinion and Ring
Gear
Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Bearings Rough.

Axle Noisy
on
Coast
Excessive Back
Lash
at Ring and Pinion Gears.

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . . Rough Bearing.

Axle Noisy
on
Coast
and
Pull
Ring
and Pinion Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Set too
Deep
in Ring
Gear
Pinion Bearing Loose or Worn

Back Lash
Axle Shaft Universal Joint Worn
Axle Shaft Improperly Adjusted

Worn
Differential Pinion Washers
Worn
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints.
Readjust
or Replace

Broken
Spring Center Bolt

Adjust
Reset

Adjust
or Overhaul Steering
Gear,
Front Axle or
Steering Parts
Straighten or Adjust
Inflate
Balance
Straighten Mount Properly
Same on Both Wheels
Repair
or Replace
Straighten or Replace
Replace or Repair Tighten

Over
Lubricated

Check
and Balance

Adjust—Check
for Bent Steering Knuckle Arm Replace

Spring
Center Bolt Broken
Adjust
or Replace
Reset Inflate

Adjust
Adjust
Repair
or Replace

Readjust

Replace

Readjust
Readjust

Replace

Readjust Readjust
Readjust
or Replace
Replace
Readjust

Replace

Repair

Emergency
Where difficulty is experienced with front axle differential making the vehicle inoperative,

remove
axle driving
flanges.
This will allow bringing vehicle in under its own power. Be sure the transfer
case
shift lever is in the neutral
(disengaged)
position.
285

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N

FIG.
N-2
2—END
YOKE PULLER

FIG.
N-23—REMOVING
CONE
AND
ROLLER
WITH
PULLER
N-13. Pinion
and
Differential
Case

Bearing
Removal

To
remove the differential bearing
cones
and rollers

and
pinion inner bearing
cone
and roller,
use
Bear­
ing Puller W-104-B with proper adapters
as
shown

in
Fig. N-23 and N-24. Use of the
puller
and

adapters assures easy removal
of
bearings without
damage
to
cone
rollers as pulling pressure
is
applied
directly
to the
bearing
cone.
The information
out­

lined
below
references
the
axle model and adpater
plate number used with Puller W-104-B when
re­

moving tapered roller bearings from
the
axle
as­
sembly components.

Axle Model Axle Shaft Bearing Pinion Bearing Differential (Tapered Shaft) Side Carrier Bearing
27
#
41
Adapter
#
40 Adapter
#
39
Adapter with
SP-1100

44
#13
Adapter
#21
Adapter
#
18
Adapter with SP-1100
FIG.
N-24—PULLING PINION
INNER
BEARING

1— Puller Tool W-104-B
2—
-Adapters
N-14. Pinion Bearing
Cup
Removal

Note:
The differential
carrier
housing
has recesses

in
the
casting
to
permit
the use of a
brass drift
to

drive
the
inner
and
outer bearing cups from
the

housing.

a.
Using
a
brass drift, drive
the
pinion inner bear­
ing
cup and
shims from
the
housing.
Even
if

mutilated,
these
shims should
be
kept
for
proper
assembly
of
differential.
b. Using
a
brass drift, drive
the
outer pinion
cup

from
the
housing.
N-15. Cleaning
and
Inspection

a. Clean
all
parts
in
fast evaporating mineral
spirits or
a
dry cleaning solvent and with
the
excep­
tion
of
bearings,
dry
with compressed air.
b. Inspect differential bearing
cones,
cups
and

rollers
for
pitting, galling
or
other visible damage.
c. Inspect differential case
for
elongated
or en­
larged pinion shaft hole.
The
machined thrust
washer surface areas
and
counterbores must
be
smooth
and
without metal
deposits
or
surface
im­

perfections.
If any of the
above
conditions exist,
satisfactory correction must
be
made
or the
case replaced. Inspect case
for
cracks
or
other visible
damage which might render
it
unfit
for
further
service.

d.
Inspect differential pinion shaft
for
excessive

wear
in
contact area
of
differential pinions. Shaft should
be
smooth
and
round with
no
scoring
or
metal pickup

e.
Inspect differential side gears and pinions;
they

should have
smooth
teeth
with
a
uniform contact
pattern without
excessive
wear
or
broken surfaces.
The
differential side gear and pinion thrust washers
should
be
smooth
and
free from
any
scoring
or
metal pickup.
295

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P The
standard parking brakes (Fig. P-3) consist of
cable-controlled linkage for applying the rear wheel

brake
shoes
mechanically. A single cable from the

parking
brake control lever is connected, by means of an equalizer, to cables leading to individual rear

brakes.
A lever attached to the secondary
shoe,

with a link acting against the
primary
shoe,
expands the
shoes
into
contact with the drums.
P-4.
Transmission Brake

The
transmission brake is mechanically operated
by a hand lever through a cable and conduit and is mounted at the rear output bearing housing on the
transfer case. The transmission brake and its
linkage are shown in Fig. P-4.
P-5.
Brake Maintenance
No brake can be
expected
to work well when grease
or oil is allowed to leak
into
the drum from the rear axle. Little braking friction can be obtained

between
brakes and drums when the surface is
covered with grease and oil. For this reason, take
care
not to over-lubricate wheel bearings, forcing

lubricant
past seals. Also, check condition of seals

if
leak is suspected or whenever brake drums

are
pulled.
Whenever
wheels
are removed, it is advisable to
wash the drums with a suitable solvent so that all
grease and dirt are removed. Linings with any
evidence of grease or oil on them should be replaced.
The
hydraulic system should be kept free of dirt

and
moisture.
Use only SAE standard J-1703 Hydraulic
Brake
Fluid.

Caution:
Keep mineral oils, gasoline, or kerosene
out of the system as
they
cause rubber cups to

soften,
swell, and distort, resulting in failure.
P-6.
Brake
Service

To
service the brakes,
follow
the procedure
below:

a.
Check the fluid level in the brake master cylin­
der.
See Lubrication Section, Par. B-40.
b. Check brake pedal adjustment. See Par. P-9.
c. Check brake pedal travel. If the pedal travels more than halfway to the floor, the brake system
must be checked and the self adjusting star wheel mechanisms checked for binding, also the brake
linings should be inspected as
they
may be badly

worn.
How much lining is
left
can only be deter­ mined by visually inspecting the linings. See Par.
P-l6 for relining brakes.

d.
If the brakes pull to one side after adjustment, check tire pressures. All tires must be inflated to recommended pressures to ensure even braking. If
the condition persists, examine the brake linings
for foreign material and clean as necessary. If clean­
ing
does
not correct the condition the linings should be replaced. If the side pull persists, check front
wheel alignment and balance.
e. Check the brake system for leaks by applying a steady pressure on the brake pedal. A leak in the
system
will
allow the pedal to "fall away". If the pedal "falls away" check for a leaking wheel cylin­
der.
Remove
wheels
and drums and carefully check
each cylinder. Also examine all lines and fittings.

Rebuild
or replace all wheel cylinders (Par. P-21)

if
one is
defective
as
they
are all probably in poor condition. If the leak has allowed brake fluid to get
on the linings, the linings
will
have to be replaced.
f. A
"spongy"
brake pedal indicates the pressure of air in the hydraulic system.
This
condition must
be corrected by bleeding the brakes. See Par. P-7.
g. Should the brakes
become
locked so that the vehicle cannot be moved, the brakes may be re­
leased by opening the bleeder screw on any one of the wheel cylinders. Before the vehicle is driven, correct the cause of the condition. The cause may
3
14 15 16 17 18
4
10796

1—
Cable
and Conduit
2—
Hand
Brake
Clip

3—
Hand
Brake
Bracket
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle Assembly 5—
Rear
Cap
6—
Drive
Gear
Bushing
7—
Driven
Gear

8—
Driven
Gear
Sleeve
FIG.
P-4—TRANSMISSION
BRAKE

9—Backing
Plate
10— Shoe and
Lining

11—
Lever
End Return Spring
12—
Brake
Drum
13— Bolt 14—
Rear
Companion Flange
15—
Washer

16— Nut 17— Propeller Shaft Flange Yoke
18—
Rear
Propeller Shaft
19—
Adjusting
End Spring
20—
Adjusting
Screw Bracket
21—
Operating
Lever

22—
Clevis

23—
Retracting
Spring
Clip

24—
Retracting
Spring
Link
325

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
lengthening of the brake master cylinder eye bolt.

This
is
done
so the primary cup
will
clear the by­
pass port when the piston is in the off position,
otherwise the compensating action of the master

cylinder
for expansion and contraction of the fluid
in
the system, due to temperature changes,
will

be destroyed and cause the brakes to drag.

Note:
Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may
develop
side

movement
of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One
way to
compensate
for this wear is to install a pedal

slack
adjuster kit,
Part
No.
921936.
FIG.
P-6—HAND
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT

P-10.
Hand Brake

On
Model DJ-5 and DJ-6 vehicles the rear brake

shoes
are operated through cables and conduits to
form the hand or parking brake. A brake cable
equalizer and adjusting rod, Fig. P-6, is located directly back of the frame center cross member.

P-11.
Parking Brake Adjustment

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6.

The
foot
brakes must be satisfactorily adjusted be­
fore attempting adjustment of the hand brake.

To
adjust the hand brake raise both rear
wheels

free of the floor.
Pull
up three
notches
on the hand

brake
lever and tighten the adjustment until the

rear
brakes drag slightly. Release the hand brake
lever and check the rear
wheels
for drag. The

wheels
must turn freely with the lever released.

P-12.
Transmission Brake Adjustment
The
transmission brake is located on the propeller
shaft at the rear of the transfer case, see Fig. P-4.
The
brake is operated by a cable connection from
the brake handle mounted on the instrument panel.

To
adjust the transmission brake, the following

sequence
should be followed:
Make
sure that the brake handle on the instrument
panel is fully released. Give due attention to the
cable and operating linkage to see that
they
do
not bind. If necessary free up the cable and
lubri­
cate it. Rotate the brake drum until one pair of the
three
sets
of
holes
are over the
shoe
adjusting screw

wheels
in the brake. Use the
edge
of the
holes
in
the brake drum as a fulcrum for suitable adjusting

tool
or a screwdriver, rotate each notched adjusting
screw by moving the handle of the
tool
away from
the center of the drive shaft until the
shoes
are
snug in the drum.
Back
off seven
notches
on the
adjusting screw
wheels
to secure proper running clearance
between
the
shoes
and the drum. Refer
to Fig. P-8.

P-13.
Relining Transmission Brake
Note:
The condition of the brake lining on the
transmission brake can be visually checked through
the adjusting
holes
in the brake drum.
FIG.
P-7—REMOVING
TRANSMISSION

BRAKE
DRUM

1— Tool W-172
2—
Adapter

3—
Brake
Drum
a.
To reline the brake
shoes
and make a major ad­
justment, first remove the four universal joint at­ taching nuts and lower the propeller shaft. Remove
the retracting spring clevis pin and the spring clip.
Remove the hug lock nut, the nut and washer from
the transfer case output shaft. Both the universal
joint companion
flange
and the brake drum may be readily removed by using puller Tool No. W-172

which
is illustrated in Fig. P-7. Remove the two

brake
shoe
retracting springs and the
shoes.

b. Clean all parts with a suitable cleaning solution

and
examine them for damage or wear.

Brake
shoes
may be distorted by improper lining
installation and the lining should be ground true
after installation on the
shoes.
For this reason it
is recommended that new or replacement
shoe
and
lining assemblies be installed.
c. To reassemble, first turn both adjusting screw

wheels
away from the center to "all off" position.
Place a light film of grease on the brake actuating

cam
and install the
shoes.
Install the black
shoe
re­

turn
spring next to the cam and the yellow spring next to the notch adjusting wheel screw. Place the
brake
drum and universal joint
flange
in position

and
install the transfer case output shaft washer,
nut and hug lock nut. 327

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
f. On vehicles without a transmission brake hold
the brake
shoes
in their relative position and
engage
the parking brake cable
into
the parking

brake
lever.
g. On vehicles without a transmission brake in­
stall
the parking brake strut and spring
between

the parking brake lever and the primary
shoe.

h.
Place the brake
shoes
on the backing plate and

install
the retainer pins, springs and retainers.

i.
Install the anchor pin plate.

j.
Install the lever and
sleeve
on the primary
shoe
then install the secondary return spring, then the
primary
return spring.

Important:
A
"L"
or "R" is located on the hex­

agon
side of the lever crank for identification. The
lever crank marked "R" applies to the primary
shoe
on the
left
rear brake assembly. The lever
crank
marked
"L"
applies to the primary
shoe
on
the right rear brake assembly.
k. Place the upper linkage rod in the
groove
of the
anchor pin and
engage
the hook of the link rod
into

the adjusting lever.

I.
Install the brake drum. Install the wheel and

tire
assembly.
m. Adjust the brakes as described
below.

P-19.
Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment —

a.
Should wheel brake units have
been
disassem­ bled for any reason, an initial adjustment
MUST
be made
before
drum installation.

b.
When the brake parts have
been
installed in
their correct position, initially adjust the adjusting
screw assemblies to a point where approximately Y% [9,53 mm.] of threads are
exposed
between
the

star
wheel and star wheel nut.

Note:
Following the initial adjustment and final
assembly, check brake pedal height to ensure

brake
operation. Then drive the car in reverse and
FIG.
P-12—BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
1—
Star
Wheel
2—
Lever

3—
Screwdriver
4—
Brake
Adjusting Tool
forward,
making 10 to 15 brake applications prior
to road testing.
This
action balances the adjust­
ment of the four brake units and raises the brake
pedal.
c. Adjustment may be made manually by remov­ing the access
slot
cover and using a brake adjust­
ing
tool
or screw driver to rotate the star wheel
until
the wheel is in the locked position. To tighten, rotate the star wheel in the clockwise direction.
Then
back off the star wheel at least 15 to 20

notches
(clicks).

d.
To back off the star wheel on the brake, insert
ice pick or thin blade screw driver in adjusting screw
slot
to hold lever away from adjusting screw.

Back
off on adjusting screw until wheel and drum

turn
freely. Replace adjusting
hole
cover.

Caution:
DO NOT attempt to back off on ad­
justing screw without holding adjuster lever away from screw as adjuster
will
be damaged.
P-20. Master Cylinder Reconditioning —
Dual
System

Refer
to Fig. P-13.

DISASSEMBLY
a.
Remove the filler cap and empty all fluid.
b.
Remove the snap ring, push rod assembly, and
the primary and secondary piston assemblies. Air pressure applied in the piston
stop
hole
will
help
facilitate the removal of the secondary piston as­
sembly.
c. The residual check valves are located under
the front and rear fluid
outlet
tube
seats.

d.
The
tube
seats
must be removed with the
self-

tapping screws supplied in the repair kit to permit removal of the check valves. Screw the self-tapping
screws
into
the
tube
seats
and place two screw

driver
tips under the screw head and force the
screw upward as shown in Fig. P-14.
e. Remove the expander in the rear secondary cup, secondary cups, return spring, cup protector,
pri­

mary
cup, and washer from the secondary piston.
f. The primary piston, with the rubber cups in­ stalled, is supplied in the repair kit.

CLEANING
a.
After disassembly, immersion of all metal parts
in
clean brake fluid or a brake system cleaner is
recommended. Use air
hose
to blow out dirt and cleaning solvent from recesses and internal pas­

sages.
When overhauling a hydraulic brake unit,
use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard
all
old rubber parts.

b.
After cleaning, place
all"
hydraulic
system parts
on clean paper or in a clean pan.

INSPECTION
Inspect all other parts for damage or
excessive

wear.
Replace any damaged, worn, or chipped
parts.
Inspect hydraulic cylinder bore for
signs
of
scoring, rust, pitting, or etching. Any of
these
will
require
replacement of the hydraulic cylinder. 331