oil type JEEP DJ 1953 User Guide

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

B
Reinstall
the axle shafts, and
refill
the housings to
plug level using the universal joint lubricant
specified in
Lubrication
Specifications.

B-56.
Front
Axle Wheel Bearings

To
lubricate the wheel bearings, it is necessary
to remove, clean, repack, and adjust them. When
front wheel hubs and bearings are removed for
lubrication,
they should be thoroughly washed in a
suitable cleaning solvent. The bearings should be
carefully
dried and then given a thorough cleaning

and
inspection. Use a clean brush to remove all

particles
of old lubricant from bearings and hubs.

After
the bearings are cleaned, inspect them for
pitted races and rollers. Also, check the hub oil
seals.

Note:
Wheel bearing lithium base lubricants are
used at the factory for
initial
fill
of
these
bearings.
When
lithium base and sodium base lubricants are

mixed,
the result is a thinned-out mixture that
can
bleed through seals. It is therefore important
that lubricants with the correct base be used when

lubricating
the wheel bearings.
Should
leaks occur at wheel bearing seals, the leaks

may
be caused by a mixture of two
types
of
lubri­

cants.
In such cases, the old lubricant should be
completely removed before new lubricant is added.

Wheel
bearings should be thoroughly cleaned,
lubricated
with lithium base and reinstalled.

Repack
the bearing
cones
and rollers with grease

and
reassemble hub in the reverse order of the
disassembly. Test the bearing adjustment as out­

lined
in Section Q.

B-57.
Rear
Axle Wheel Bearings

The
Rear
wheel bearings an early models equipped

with
lubrication fittings with a vent opening
through the housings above each fitting should be
lubricated
sparingly, each
2,000
miles
[3.200
km.].

Use
a hand compressor and wheel bearing grease,
forcing
the grease through each lubrication fitting

until
it flows from the vent. Vent should be kept
clear
of obstruction or grease
will
back up into the

brakes.
Do not add grease after it flows from the
vent for it may be forced through the wheel key-
way
onto
the outside of the wheel and possibly

onto
the brake linings.
Rear
wheel bearings that do
not have lubrication fittings should be removed
each
12,000
miles
[19.200
km.] and the bearing
cleaned, inspected and repacked. Refer to proce­

dure
in Par. B-56.

Note:
When servicing the Flanged Axle Unit
Bear­

ing Assembly, refer to Section N, Par. N-5 for

proper
lubrication procedures.

B-58.
Propeller Shafts
and
Universal Joints

The
propeller shaft slip joints and universals should
be lubricated with a hand compressor grease gun so as to not damage the bearing seals. The units
should be lubricated with a
good
quality grease.

Refer
to the
Lubrication
Chart
for lubrication fre­
quency and lubricant type and grade. B-59.
Lights
and
Controls

a.
Check
all interior and exterior lights and light
switches for proper operation, including: parking
lights, headlamps (high beam and low beam),

tail
lights, brake lights, directional lights, and in­ strument panel lights.

b.
Check
all instrument panel controls and
instru­

ments for proper operation.

B-60.
Speedometer Cable

Remove the
speedometer
cable from its housing every
12,000
miles
[19.300
km.].
Clean
it thor­
oughly and coat it with a
good
quality light graphite grease.

B-61.
Headlights

Refer
to Section H.

B-62.
Heater Controls

Apply
Lubriplate
130-A to all friction points and
pivot points on the heater controls panel unit as well as the pivot points at the dashpot. Apply

a
few drops of penetrating oil all along the Bowden
cable.
This
oil
will
penetrate into the center wire.

B-63.
Windshield Wiper and
Washer Controls

Lubricate
the friction points and the pivot points
on the windshield wiper transmission and linkage

arms
with a slight amount of
Lubriplate
130-A.

B-64.
Rotate Tires

Refer
to Section Q for the correct method of rotat­ ing the tires.

B-65.
Body Lube Points
•
Refer to Par. B-66 through B-68.

B-66.
Hood Hinge Pivot Points

Lubricate
the frictional points of the hood hinge
pivot points with a few drops of light-weight
engine

oil.
B-67.
Glove Compartment Door Latch
Sparingly
wipe
Lubriplate
130-A on the
glove
com­
partment door latch.

B-68.
Tailgate Hinges

Lubricate
the friction points of the tailgate hinges

with
a few drops of light-weight
engine
oil.

B-69.
LUBRICATION
OF
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

B-70.
Pintle Hook

When
lubricating the vehicle, place a few drops of oil on the pintle hook and safety latch pivot pins.

B-7!.
Centrifugal Governor

Check
the oil level in the governor housing at each
vehicle lubrication. Use the same seasonal grade
oil
as is used in the
engine
and change oil at each

engine
oil change. Do not
fill
the housing above
the level indicating plug opening. Keep the vent

in
the filler plug open at all times. 17

B

LUBRICATION
B-72.
Powr-Lok
or Trac-Lok
Differential

Refer
to Par. B-53.

B-73.
PARTS
REQUIRING
NO
LUBRICATION

B-74.
Water Pump Bearing,
Clutch
Release
Bearing

The
water pump and clutch release bearings are

prelubricated
for life when manufactured and cannot be relubricated.

B-7S.
Starter
Motor
Bearings

The
starting motor bearings are lubricated at assembly to last
between
normal rebuild periods.

B-76.
Alternator Bearings

The
alternator bearings are lubricated at assembly

and
require no further lubrication.

B-77.
Springs

The
vehicle springs should not be lubricated. At assembly the leaves are coated with a long-lasting

special
lubricant which is designed to last the life
of the springs. Spraying with the usual mixture of
oil
and kerosene has a tendency to wash this
lubri­

cant
from
between
the leaves, making it necessary
to relubricate
often
to eliminate squeaking.

B-78.
Shock Absorbers

Hydraulic
direct-action shock absorbers are per­ manently sealed and require no periodic
lubrica­

tion service. Shock absorber mounting bushings
are
not to be lubricated.

B-79.
LUBRICATION
REQUIREMENTS
FOR
OFF-HIGHWAY
OPERATION

Adequate lubrication
becomes
increasingly im­ portant when vehicles are used in off-highway
operation. Under
these
conditions all operating
parts
of both the
engine
and chassis are subjected
to unusual pressures. At the same time such operation is usually under abnormal dust and
dirt

conditions making additional precautions neces­

sary.
The importance of correct lubrication for
the conditions of operation cannot be overestimated.

B-80.
Engine
Oil

It
is important, that the oil in a new or rebuilt
engine
be changed after the first
eight
or ten hours
of operation, and for heavy, dusty work, every 50

hours
thereafter. Watch the condition of the oil closely and change it immediately if it appears to
be contaminated.

i-Il.
Engine
Oil
Filter

Replace
the oil filter at the end of the first 100

hours
of service. Under extreme operating con­ ditions, more frequent replacement may be re­
quired.
The condition of the oil is a reliable

indicator
of the condition of the filter element.
If
the oil
becomes
discolored and shows evidence
of contamination, change the filter without delay.
(Refer
to
Par.
B-10, B-ll for the correct procedure
for replacing the oil filter.)

B-82.
Air Cleaner

Care
of the air cleaner is extremely vital to the life of the engine. Pay particular attention to the
amount of dust and
dirt
in the air taken into the

engine
through the air cleaner. When dust is not
noticeable in the air, service the air cleaner each scheduled maintenance period. Whenever the air is
noticeably dusty (for example when the vehicle is

driven
on secondary roads or through fields) then
service the air cleaner more frequently. Under extreme continually dusty and dirty conditions
where the vehicle operates in clouds of dust and

dirt,
service the air cleaner daily. (Refer to Par.
B-24
thru
B-26 for service procedures.)

B-83.
Chassis
Lubrication

The
period of lubrication depends entirely upon the type of work being done. Using the specified

interval
given in the Service Maintenance Schedule as a guide, lubricate at safe intervals required for
the particular type of operation. Under extremely
dusty conditions lubricate
these
points daily. Be

sure
to force enough lubricant into each fitting to force out the old lubricant which might be con­
taminated with grit and which would cause
rapid

wear
if allowed to remain.
Do not place lubricant on the various
ball
and socket joints or pivot points of the lift linkage as
dirt
will
accumulate to form an abrasive mix­

ture.
It is
best
to simply wipe
these
parts clean

with
a cloth.

B-84.
Front
Axle
Shaft Universal Joints

For
off-highway use remove the universal joints twice yearly, thoroughly clean both the housings

and
joints with a suitable solvent, and
refill
the
housings to the
fill
plug opening levels with the

correct
lubricant as given in the
Lubrication
Specifications.

B-85.
Transmission and Transfer
Case

The
combined capacity of the two housings is
small
for economy, making it important that the

lubricant
be changed at regular intervals. For off-highway use
drain
both housings every 300

hours
of operation and
refill
to the
fill
plug opening
levels. Refer to B-35 through B-37 when changing

lubricant.

B-86.
Front and
Rear
Axle
Differentials

Because of the higher pressure developed in the
axle assemblies with heavy duty operation,
drain,

flush,
and
refill
the differential assemblies each 300 hours of operation. Use only flushing oil or light
engine
oil to clean out the housings (except

Powr-Lok
and
Trac-Lok
differentials). Refer to
Par.
B-52 and B-53 for draining and flushing

differential.
18

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the main bearing caps to the cylinder block. Use
a
lifting bar beneath the ends of each bearing cap.

Be
careful not to exert too much pressure to cause
damage to the cap or
dowels
and pry the caps free.

CAUTION:
If main bearing caps are not removed
carefully
by raising both sides of each cap evenly

until
free of the dowels, the
dowels
may be bent.

A
bent main bearing cap dowel can cause misalign­ ment of the cap and resultant
rapid
bearing wear
necessitating replacement. Therefore, remove each
main
bearing cap carefully. If there is reason to
believe any of the
dowels
have been bent during
the bearing cap removal, remove them and install
new
dowels
as detailed in Par. D-34c.
Remove the upper
half
of the
rear
main bearing

oil
seal from the cylinder block and the lower
half

from
the oil seal
groove
in the
rear
main bearing

cap.
Install
the main bearing caps and bearings on
the cylinder block in their original positions.

Note;
Removal of the crankshaft may be ac­
complished only with the
engine
out of the vehicle.

D-27.
Remove
Exhaust
Valves and Springs
Access to the valve chamber is obtained by re­ moving the attaching parts and the valve spring
cover and gasket from the cylinder block. Use cloths
to block off the three
holes
in the exhaust valve
chamber to prevent the valve retaining locks falling
into the crankcase, should they be accidentally dropped.

With
a valve
/
spring compressor, compress the valve springs on
those
valves which are in the
closed position (valve seated against cylinder

block).
Remove the exhaust valve spring retainer

locks,
the exhaust valve spring retainer, and the exhaust valve spring. Close the other valves by
rotating the camshaft and repeat the above opera­
tion for the other valves in the same manner.
Lift

out all the exhaust valves and tag or place them in
a
rack
to indicate the location where each was re­moved from the cylinder block. If a valve sticks in
the guide and cannot be easily lifted out,
pull
the valve upward as far as possible and remove the

spring.
Lower
the valve and remove any carbon

deposits
from the valve stem.
This
will
permit re­ moval of the valve.

For
intake valve and spring removal, see
Par.
D-l7.

D-28.
Remove Camshaft

a.
Push the intake and exhaust valve tappets into the cylinder block as far as possible so the ends of
the tappets are not in contact with the camshaft. b. Secure each tappet in the raised position by in­
stalling a common clip-type clothes pin on the

shank
of each tappet or tie them up in the valve
chamber.

c. Remove the camshaft thrust plate attaching
screws.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate and

spacer.

d.
Pull
the camshaft forward out of the cylinder
block using care to prevent damage to the cam­
shaft bearing surfaces.
D-29.
Remove Valve Tappets
Remove the intake and exhaust valve tappets from
the
bottom
or crankshaft side of the cylinder block
after the camshaft has been removed. Tag each
tappet or place them in a marked
rack
so they may be reassembled in their original positions.

D-30.
Remove Oil
Gallery
Plugs
Remove the plug at each end of the oil gallery in the cylinder block.
This
operation is only applicable
when the
engine
is out of the vehicle and
will
allow access to the oil gallery so it may be cleaned.

D-31. ENGINE INSPECTION
AND
REPAIR
The
inspection and repair procedures detailed here­

in
are recommended to be followed when a com­
plete
engine
overhaul is to be made with the
engine

out of the vehicle. These instructions can generally be applied individually with the
engine
in the
vehicle. Wherever the procedure differs due to
the
engine
being in the vehicle, the necessary

special
instructions are provided. Inspection and

repair
instructions are included to cover the

cylinder
block, cylinder head, crankshaft and bearings, connecting rods and bearings, oil pump, valves and tappets, pistons and rings, flywheel,
timing gears, and the camshaft and bearings. In addition, fitting operations for
these
engine
com­

ponents
are included.

Important:
Before the inspection and repair pro­
cedures listed below are begun, the
engine
serial
number must be checked for the presence of
code

letters denoting undersize bearings or oversize
pistons. Refer to Par. D-2.

D-32.
Cylinder
Block

The
cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and repaired as detailed in the following

paragraphs.

D-33.
Cleaning

The
cylinder block may be steam cleaned or cleaned

with
a suitable solvent. A scraper is recommended
to remove
hard
deposits, except on highly finished surfaces. Special attention must be directed to the
cleaning of the oil passages, valve chamber,
crank­

case, and cylinder walls to remove all sludge,
dirt

and
carbon deposits. After cleaning, use air pressure to dry the block thoroughly.
D-34. Inspection

Examine
the cylinder block for minute cracks and

fractures.
Rusted valve springs or evidence of rust

in
the valve chamber or the cylinder walls is a
good

indication of a possible
crack
in the block,

a.
Examine all machined surfaces of the cylinder block for
burrs
and scores.
Check
for cylinder block
distortion by placing a straight
edge
along the
length of the cylinder head surface of the block.
With
a feeler
gauge,
check for clearance
between
the straight
edge
and the block, particularly be­
tween adjacent cylinders. Maximum permissible
out of line for service is .010"
[0,254
mm.] over the
full
length of the block. 45

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
straight
in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly

with
a hammer until it
bottoms.

d.
When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the
bolts
evenly in each cap to
pull
it into place
without bending the
dowels
or distorting the
bearing
cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspec­ tion
and
possible
repair,
but which are directly
related
to other
engine
components (such as tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and

oil
pump) are covered later in this section.

D-35.
Cylinder
Bores

The
cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or
reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect
crank­

shaft
journals
and other
engine
parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.

Both
honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done
carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use

a
finishing
hone
to remove the glaze. Reboring the cylinders must not be attempted unless ade­
quate facilities and experienced service technicians
are
available. The amount of material to be re­moved is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426
mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available
in the following oversizes.
.010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .040" [1,016 mm.}

The
largest cylinder bore
will
determine the over­
size to which all cylinders must be rebored, since the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper
engine
balance. The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from

standard.
Measure
the cylinder diameters by making mea­
surements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft
over entire piston travel and at
bottom

of cylinder. Proceed as follows:

a.
If bores are scored; if out-of-round
exceeds
.005
"
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";

or
if taper
exceeds
.005
"
on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring
and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.

Note:
If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381
mm.] for final honing.

All
cylinder bore diameters must be within .002
"
[0,0508
mm.] after reconditioning.

b.
If bore measurements are within the above

limits,
but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders should be honed with 250 grit
stone
hone. Pump
hone
up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched

pattern
approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit
stone

hone
or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
hone
or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched

pattern
previously mentioned.

d.
Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls,
wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply
a light coat of
engine
oil. If cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.

D-36.
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two com­ pression rings and one oil control
ring.
The pistons have an extra
groove
above the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulating
groove
to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring
groove

with
hard
carbon. The piston pin is secured by the lock screw.

The
pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the
engine
as assemblies. If cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings
will
have to be in­

stalled.

Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control
ring,
and the oil control ring expander from each piston. Do not remove the
bolts
from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the
bolts
are damaged.
Clamp
each connecting rod and piston assembly

in
a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin

lock
screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod.
Clean
all
carbon,
gum, and lacquer
deposits
from both the

inner
and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting

rod,
and piston pin. Use a ring
groove
cleaner or a
broken
ring filed to a sharp square
edge
to clean
the carbon from the piston ring
grooves
and the

insulator
groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the
grooves
or make
burrs
on ring
groove
surfaces. Run a length of wire through the

oil
spray
hole
near the lower end of the connecting

rod
to clear the
hole
of hardened oil
deposits
or
foreign matter.
Carefully
inspect the pistons and
replace
any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or
rounded on the
edges;
or if the piston is scored,

scratched,
or burned so seriously that the imperfec­
tions cannot be removed with a hand honing
stone

or
crocus cloth.

Replace
the pistons as follows:

a.
After cylinder bores have been carefully checked for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70
°F.
[21°C]
by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale

Tool
No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762
mm.] thickness
gauge
%" [19 mm.] wide.

The
piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The
gauge
must extend the
full
length of the piston on the thrust side
(opposite

side from slot in piston
skirt).
Scale should register
5
to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.]
pull
to remove the
thickness
gauge
from
between
cylinder
wall
and piston. Excessive
pull
indicates need for a slightly

smaller
piston or additional honing of cylinder. In­ sufficient
pull
indicates need for fitting a larger piston. 47

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D

FIG.
D-ll—CHECKING PISTON
AND
CONNECTING
ROD
ALIGNMENT 1—
Feeler
Gauge

2—
Fixture

the
opposite
side from the oil spray
hole
in the
bearing
end of the connecting rod. See Fig. D-10.

Install
the piston pin lock screw and torque 35 to
41 lb-ft. [4,8 a 5,7 kg-m.].

d.
Place piston and rod assembly in a connecting

rod
aligning fixture and check alignment of the
assembly as shown in
Fig. D-ll.
Follow instructions

furnished
with the fixture.
e. Using a feeler
gauge
and new piston rings, check the width of the two compression ring
grooves
and
the oil ring groove. Replace the piston if the widths of the
grooves
are not with the limits given in
the specifications.
Insert
feeler
gauge
between
ring and piston to back
of groove. Replace piston if ring
grooves
are not

within
allowable tolerances. If a feeler
gauge
larger
FIG.
D-l 2—CHECKING PISTON RING

SIDE
CLEARANCE
1—
Feeler
Gauge
2—
Piston
Ring
FIG.
D-13—PISTON
RING
GAP
than
.006" [0,152 mm.] can be inserted
J^6"
[1,6
mm.]
between
piston and upper compression
ring,

groove
is worn excessively bell-mouthed and
piston should be replaced.
f.
Check
piston ring end gap by placing compres­ sion ring in cylinder bore below ring travel using head of an inverted piston as a plunger to push

ring
in squarely. End gap must be as shown in

Par.
D-37 for all rings. If less, file ends to obtain
minimum
gap.
With
cylinders bored to an exact

ring
oversize of
+.020", +.030",
or
+.040"
[0,508-

0,762-1,016
mm.] the proper end clearance as given in Par. D-37
will
result. If end
gaps
are
not within the limits given in Par.
D-3
7, rings are
of the wrong size or were incorrectly filed for fitting.

g.
Install
a new ring set using either production replacement rings or service type oil control rings.
Production
type replacement piston rings are the
same as the original factory-installed rings while
service oil control ring
sets
have different com­
ponents, notably the oil ring expander. Follow
instructions of
manufacturer
for proper installation.

Use
a piston ring expander to install rings on pistons. Do not expand rings more than necessary
to install, also be careful not to
burr
the piston

with
ends of rings.
Install
bottom
(oil) ring first, center ring second, and top ring last.

The
width of the compression rings is [2,38
mm.] and that of the oil control ring is f^" [4,78

mm.].
While the compression rings are of the same
size, they are different in construction and must
not be interchanged.
Install
these
rings as shown

in
Fig. D-14. The upper compression ring has an
inside beveled
edge
which must be installed toward
the piston top. The face of the lower compression

ring
is tapered approximately .001" [0,025 mm.].
The
letters T or TOP on the upper
edge
indicate
how the ring is to be installed. 49

-Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

E>
[5,928 a
5,926
cm.] for all main bearings. Allowable
taper or out-of-round of the journals is .001"
[0,0254
mm.].

D-42.
Checking Connecting Rod
Crankpins

Check
the crankpin diameters with a micrometer
to ensure that they are not out-of-round or tapered more than .001"
[0,0254
mm.] The standard
crank-

pin
diameter is
1.9383*
to
1.9375"
[4,9233
a
4,9213

cm.].
D-43.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

The
crankshaft rotates on three main bearings

with
a running clearance of .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076
a
0,0736
mm.].

These
bearings are positioned and prevented from
rotating in their supports in the cylinder block by
dowel pins. Dowel pins are used in both the center

and
the
rear
bearing caps. No dowel pins are used

in
the front bearing cap because the bearing has
a
flange. The front main bearing takes the end

thrust
of the crankshaft. The main bearings are of premium type which provides long bearing life.
They
are replaceable and when correctly installed, provide proper clearance without filing, boring,

scraping,
or shimming. Crankshaft bearings can
be removed from this
engine
only with the
engine

out of the vehicle. Crankshaft bearings must be replaced as a complete set of three bearings, each
bearing consisting of two halves.
Main
bearings
are
available in the standard size and the following
undersizes:
.001" [0,025mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.] .002" [0,051mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010" [0,254mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize main bearings are
for use with standard size crankshafts having
slightly worn
journals.
The .010", .020", and .030" undersize bearings are for use with undersize

crankshafts
in
those
sizes. The .012" undersize
bearings are for use with .010" undersize
crank­
shafts having slightly worn journals. Bearing sizes

are
rubber stamped on the reverse side of each
bearing half.
D-44. Crankshaft
Main
Bearing Inspection

The
crankshaft
journals
must be carefully inspected
as detailed previously in Par. D-41. Worn journals

will
require undersize bearings. Scored, flaked, or

worn
bearings must be replaced. Measure the main
bearing bores in the cylinder block using a
telescope

gauge
and micrometer. Measure the bores at right
angles to the split line and at 45° to the split line.

The
bores should not be over .001"
[0,0254
mm.]
out-of-round or .001" in taper from end to end.

Also,
the bores should not be more then .001"
oversize, considering the average diameter of the
bore.

D-45.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Plastigage

After
wiping and carefully inspecting the bearing bore, install the proper bearing. See that the oil

hole
in the bearing upper half registers properly

with
the oil
hole
in the block, and that the bearing
lock fits properly in the notch in the block.
Install

the crankshaft if replacing bearings with the
engine

out of the vehicle. The desired running fit (dif­
ference
between
the diameter of the crankshaft

journal
and the inside diameter of the fitted bear­ ing) for a main bearing is .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076

a
0,0736
mm.]. With a dimension in
excess
of this
standard
running fit, a satisfactory bearing replace­ment cannot be made and it
will
be necessary to

regrind
the crankshaft.
Install
the bearing lower

half
and the bearing cap and draw the nuts down
equally and only slightly tight. Rotate the
crank­

shaft by hand to be sure it turns freely without

drag.
Pull
the nuts tighter, first one then the other,
a
little at a time, intermittently rotating the
crank­

shaft by hand until the recommended torque of
35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and lubricated with
light oil before installation, the crankshaft should
turn
freely in the bearings. If the crankshaft cannot
be turned, a larger bearing is
required.
If there is no binding or tightness, it is still necessary to check
clearance to guard against too
loose
a fit. Never file
either the bearing cap or the bearing to compensate
for too much clearance. Do not use shims under a
bearing cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a
new bearing half with a worn bearing half. The use
of "Plastigage" of the proper size to measure .001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for check­
ing crankshaft main bearing clearance. The method
of checking clearance is as follows:

a.
Remove the bearing cap and carefully wipe

all
oil from the bearing and the
journal.
b.
Lay a piece of "Plastigage" y%" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing across the

journal
(lengthwise of the crankshaft).

c.
Install
the bearing and cap and tighten first
one nut, then the other, a little at a time to the specified torque. As the bearing
tightens
down

around
the
journal,
the "Plastigage" flattens to a
width that indicates the bearing clearance.

d.
Remove the cap and measure the width of
the flattened "Plastigage," using the scale printed
on the
edge
of the envelope. The proper size "Plasti­
gage"
will
accurately measure clearance down to .001".
e. If the flattened "Plastigage" tapers toward the middle, or toward the end, or both ends, there
is a difference in clearance, indicating a taper, a
low
spot,
or other irregularity of the bearing or

journal.

D-46.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Shim Stock

Thin
feeler or shim stock may be used instead of "Plastigage" to check bearing clearances. The
method is simple, but care must be taken to protect
the bearing metal surface from
injury
by too much pressure against the feeler stock,

a.
Cut a piece of .001" [0,025 mm.] thick, by Yl [12,7 mm.] wide, feeler stock }4" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing. Coat this 51

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

10442

FIG.
D-l6—SHIM
STOCK
IN
POSITION
ON
MAIN
BEARING

1—0.001"
Feeler Stock H' Wide feeler stock with light
engine
oil and lay it on the

bearing
in the cap, as shown in
Fig.
D-16.
With
the

shim
in this position, install the bearing and cap
on the crankshaft.

b.
Tighten the bearing cap nuts, first one and
then the other, a little at a time to 35 to 45 lb-ft. torque [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.].

c.
Turn
the crankshaft by hand not more than
one inch in either direction.

Caution:
Turning
the crankshaft more may imbed the shim stock in the bearing, giving a false indica­
tion of fit and damaging the bearing.

If
the bearing clearance is correct, the piece of .001"
feeler stock should produce a light to heavy drag.
If
there is little or no drag the bearing fit is too

loose.
If the crankshaft
will
not
turn
there is not
enough clearance. In either case another bearing must be selected to provide the proper fit.

d.
After the bearing has been correctly fitted, remove the shim stock, wipe the bearing and

journal
carefully and apply clean
engine
oil to the
surfaces.
Replace the cap and tighten the nuts first one, then the other, a little at a time, to the
prescribed
torque. The crankshaft should now
turn

freely without drag.
FIG.
D-l
7—CONNECTING
ROD
OFFSET
D-47.
Connecting Rod Bearings

The
connecting rod bearings, like the crankshaft
main
bearings, are of the replaceable type. When

correctly
installed, the bearings provide proper
clearance
without filing, boring, scraping, or

shimming.

Main
bearings with maximum wearing surfaces
are
obtained through the use of
offset
connecting

rods.
When the rods are installed, the
offset
"A"

in
Fig. D-l7 is placed away from the nearest main

bearing
"B".
The
oil spray
hole
should be on the "follow" side

or
away from the camshaft, toward the right side
of the vehicle. Because of the
offset
and oil spray
hole, No. 1 and 2 or No. 3 and 4 connecting rods cannot be interchanged for if they are reversed,
the oil spray
hole
will
be on the wrong side. No. 1
and
3 or No. 2 and 4 can be interchanged.

Connecting
rod bearings should be replaced as a complete set.
Each
bearing consists of two halves.

Connecting
rod bearing
sets
are available in stand­

ard
size and the following undersize:
.001" [0,025 mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.]
.002"
[0,051
mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize bearings are for use

with
standard size crankshafts having slightly

worn
crankpins that do not require grinding. The .012" undersize bearings are for use with slightly

worn
crankshafts that have been previously ground for .010" undersize bearings.

Should
it be necessary to replace the bearings due to wear, replacement of piston rings and piston
pins is also recommended.

NOTE:
Should it be necessary to replace a scored

or
burned No. 1 connecting rod bearing, see Par. D-92 regarding timing gear oil jet.

D-48.
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection

The
bearing fits may be roughly checked by shaking the connecting rod by hand,
prior
to removal of
the bearing cap, to determine if it is
loose
on the
crankshaft.
The crankpins must be carefully in­
spected as detailed previously in Par. D-41.
Worn
crankpins
will
require undersize bearings. Scored,
flaked,
or
worn bearings must be replaced.

D-49.
Installing Connecting Rod Bearings
New bearings must be installed so that the oil

spray
hole
in the upper bearing
half
aligns with
the oil spray
hole
in the connecting rod.
Each

bearing
cap must be installed to seat evenly on the connecting rod from which it was removed, and in
the same position. After wiping and carefully in­ specting the bearing bore in the connecting rod,

install
the proper bearing. Never file either the
bearing
cap or the bearing to compensate for too
much
clearance. Do not use shims under a bearing
cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a new

bearing
half
with a worn half.

The
desired running fit (difference
between
the diameter of the
crankpin
and the inside diameter
of the fitted bearing) for a connecting rod bearing
is .0003" to .0025"
[0,0076
a
0,0635
mm.].
With
a dimension in
excess
of this standard running fit, a 52

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57