brake JEEP DJ 1953 Owner's Guide

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N

11465
FIG.
N-S—REMOVING
TAPERED
AXLE
SHAFT
1—Cone and Roller 2—Axle 3—Tool C-637

Check
the shaft oil seal
before
installing the rear
axle. If replacement is necessary, use Axle Shaft
Oil
Seal Driver W-186, Fig. N-l7.
Before installing the axle shaft nut
cotter
pin, ad­
just the wheel bearings as outlined in Section Q.
FIG.
N-6—REMOVING
AXLE
SHAFT BEARING —
TAPERED SHAFT
N-3.
Rear
Axle Shaft Removal (Sercii-Float-Flanged Shaft)
a.
Jack
up vehicle and
remove
wheels.
b. Remove brake drum.
c. Remove axle shaft
flange
cup plug by piercing
the center with a sharp
tool
and prying it out.
d. Using
access
hole
in axle shaft
flange
remove
@ ® (30) (29)

FIG.
N-7—SEMI-FLOAT REAR
AXLE
ASSEMBLY — FLANGED SHAFT
1— Differential Bearing Cup
2— Differential Bearing
3— Shims
4— Differential 5—
Ring
Gear
and Pinion 6— -Pinion Inner Bearing
7— Pinion Inner Bearing Cup
8— Pinion Shims
9— Axle Housing
10— Breather
11— Pinion Outer Bearing Cup
12— Pinion Outer Bearing 13—
Oil
Slinger
14— Pinion Oil Seal
15— Dust Shield
16—
Yoke

17—
Flat
Washer
18— Pinion Nut
19— Axle Housing Oil Seal
20— Axle Shaft Retainer Ring
21— Axle Shaft Bearing
22— Axle Shaft Oil Seal
23— Axle Shaft Retainer Plate
24— Axle Shaft Cup Plug 25— Axle Shaft
26—
Thrust
Washer
27— Differential Pinion Gears
28—
Thrust
Washer 29— Gasket
30— Housing Cover 31— Screw and Lockwasher
32—
Filler
Plug 33—
Lock
Pin 34— Differential Shaft
35—
Ring
Gear
Screw 289

N

REAR
AXLE

FIG.
N-l3—NOTCHING
BEARING
RETAINING
RING
c.
Attach puller
tool
W-343 to axle shaft flanged
end using the wheel lug nuts. Position puller
bolts

against dimples of holding ring and alternately tighten until bearing is pressed from shaft, as shown

in
Fig. N-14. 14152

FIG.
N-14—REMOVING
AXLE
SHAFT
BEARING
1—
Bolt

2—
Flange
Adapter

3—
Dimple
in Holding
Ring

4 Holding
Ring

5—
Adapter
Plates N-8.
Rear
Axle
Shaft and Bearing Installation

(Semi-Float-Flanged
Shaft)

a.
Inspect the axle shaft oil seal
journal
for
scratches and polish with fine crocus cloth if
necessary.

b.
Install
retainer plate on the axle shaft

c.
Apply grease to the new oil seal cavity
between

the seal lips and carefully slide seal, on the axle shaft seal seat. The outer face of the seal must be

toward
the axle flange.

d.
Pack
the new bearing
full
of grease
prior
to

installation,
using the proper lubricant.
e.
Install
the unit bearing on the axle shaft making
certain
the cup rib ring is facing the axle flange.
f.
Install
the new bearing retainer ring on the axle shaft.
g. Using puller
tool
W-343, press the new axle shaft bearing and retainer ring on the axle shaft
simultaneously. Tighten puller
bolts
alternately

until
the bearing and retainer ring are properly
seated
against the shaft shoulder.

Refer
to Fig. N-15 and N-16. 14154

FIG.
N-15—INSTALLING
AXLE
SHAFT
BEARING

1—
Holding
Ring

2—
Adapter

3—
Flange
Adapter
4—
Bolt

Note:
Make certain the old bearing cup has
been

removed from the axle housing
before
the axle
shaft and new unit bearing is installed
into
the
axle housing.

h.
Install
axle shaft through the backing plate
using care not to damage the axle housing
tube
inner
oil seal.

i.
Apply a thin coating of lubricant to the
outside

diameter of the bearing cup
prior
to installing in
the bearing bore.

j.
Tap end of flanged shaft lightly with a rawhide
mallet to position the axle shaft bearing in the
housing bearing bore.

k.
Attach the axle shaft retainer and brake back­
ing plate to the axle
tube
flange. Secure with nuts

and
lockwashers. Torque 25 to 35 lb. ft
[3,4-4,8

kg-m.].

I.
Install
a new cup plug
into
the axle shaft
flange

hole.

m.
Install
the brake
drum,
and
rear
wheel as­
sembly. 292

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

N

FIG.
N-l6—AXLE
SHAFT
BEARING
INSTALLED
1—
Retainer
Ring

2—
Unit
Bearing

3—
Seal

4—
Retainer
Plate
5—
Axle
Shaft
Flange
N-9.
REAR
AXLE
ASSEMBLY

The
following
paragraphs
(Pars.
N-9 through N-19)
describe the removal, disassembly, assembly and
services performed on
rear
axle assemblies having
conventional differentials.
Pars.
N-20 through N-32 describe the services to be performed on
rear
axle
assemblies having
Powr-Lok
and
Trac-Lok
dif­
ferentials.

Note:
The
full
floating front axle differential as­
sembly is similar to the
rear
axle differential and is
removed, inspected, disassembled, and assembled
in
the same manner as the
rear
axle differential
covered in this section.
FIG.
N-l
7—OIL
SEAL
DRIVER

Note:
The pinion shaft oil seal is serviced in the
vehicle when replacement is necessary. Refer to

Fig.
N-l8.
11851
j

J

FIG.
N-l8—REMOVING
PINION
SHAFT
OIL
SEAL

1—Tool
W-251 N-10. Inspection

Refer
to Fig. N-3 and N-7. Before disassembling the differential, it is advisable
to determine through inspection the cause of the

failure.
Inspection procedure is as follows:

a.
Drain
lubricant and remove housing cover and gasket.

b.
Clean
the differential parts thoroughly with sol­
vent.

c.
Carefully
inspect all parts.

Should
it be determined by inspection that the

differential
requires overhauling, the axle must first
be removed from the vehicle.

Note:
All service replacement axle assemblies are
shipped from the factory without lubricant in the

differential.
Lubricant
must be added to the dif­

ferential
before
the axles are installed in vehicles.

Use
the grade and quantity of lubricant specified
in
the
Lubrication
Chart.

After
the axle has
been
installed in the vehicle,
check
to be sure the lubricant level in the differen­

tial
is up to the filler plug opening.

N-l
1.
Rear
Axle Removal

To
remove the
rear
axle, proceed as follows:
a.
Raise the
rear
of the vehicle with a hoist. Safely
support the frame ahead of the
rear
springs.

b.
Remove the wheels.

c.
Disconnect the propeller shaft at the
rear
yoke.

d.
Disconnect the shock absorbers at the axle
mounting.
e. Disconnect the brake hydraulic
hose
at the tee
fitting on the axle just
below
the
left
frame side
rail.
Tape
ends
of
hose
to
keep
out
dirt.

f. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the frame
mounting. DJ
models
only.
g. Support the axle housing on a
jack.

h.
Remove the axle U-bolts.
i.
Slide the axle from under the vehicle. 293

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N
scribed
in
Pars.
N-ll through N-l9 for standard
axles, with the exception of the following torque
recommendations. Torque the differential case
bearing
cap screws 70 to 90 lb-ft. [9,7 a 12,4 kg-m.]

and
the cover screws 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4
kg-m.].
The ring gear screws on axles with Powr-

Lok
differentials should be torqued as follows:

Model
30 and 44 axles 35 to 55 lb-ft. [4,84 a 7,60 kg-m.].

N-24. TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
As
optional equipment
Trac-Lok
Model 44 differen­
tial
is available on all Jeep Universal vehicles equipped with semi-float flanged axle shafts.
A
conventional differential transmits all of the
ring
gear torque through the differential gears to the axle shafts. Torque is at all
times
equal on the axle shafts, and if one wheel slips, the other wheel

can
only put out as much torque as the slipping
wheel.

The
Trac-Lok
differential is similar,
except
that

part
of the torque from the ring gear is trans­ mitted through clutch packs
between
the side gears

and
differential case. The multiple disc clutches

with
radial
grooves
on the plates and concentric
grooves
on the discs are
engaged
by a preload

from
Belleville springs, plus separating forces from
the side gears as torque is applied through the
ring
gear.

The
Trac-Lok
construction permits differential action when required for turning corners and trans­mits equal torque to both
wheels
when driving

straight
ahead. However, when one wheel tries to spin due to leaving the ground, a patch of ice,
etc., the clutch packs automatically provide more
torque to the wheel which is not trying to spin.
It
can be
seen
then that the
Trac-Lok
differential
resists wheel spin on bumpy roads and provides
more pulling power when one wheel tries to slip.
In
many cases of differences in traction, pulling
power
will
be automatically provided until both
wheels
start to slip.

In
diagnosis of vehicle operators' complaints, it
is important to recognize two things:

a.
If, with unequal traction, both
wheels
slip, the

Trac-Lok
has
done
all it can possibly do.

b.
In extreme cases of differences in traction, the
wheel with least traction may spin after the
Trac-

Lok
has transferred as much torque as possible
to the non-slipping wheel.
N-25.
Lubrication

The
Trac-Lok
differential requires a special
lubri­

cant
and ordinary multipurpose gear lubricants

MUST
NOT be used. Use only 'Jeep* Differential
Oil,
Part
No. 94557.

Trac-Lok
differential may be cleaned only by disassembling the unit and wiping with clean rags. Do not flush the
Trac-Lok
unit.

Note:
The
Trac-Lok
differential is serviced at the
same time intervals as the standard differential.
N-26.
Trouble
Symptoms

If
noises
or roughness, such as chatter, are present
in
turning corners, the probable cause is incorrect

or
contaminated lubricant.
Before any differential is removed and disassem­
bled for chatter complaints, the correctness of
lubri­

cant
can and should be determined.

A
complete
lubricant
drain,
and
refill
with specified

Limited
Slip Differential lubricant
will
usually
correct
chatter.

The
following procedure is recommended to ensure

complete
removal of old lubricant.

a.
Warm
the lubricant by vehicle road operation,

or
5 minutes of operation in gear at 30 mph with
both
wheels
off the ground on a hoist.

Caution:
Never place the transmission in gear with
the
engine
running when only one wheel of a

Limited
Slip Differential equipped vehicle is raised.
The
vehicle might drive itself off the
jack
and produce damage or
injury.

b.
Drain
lubricant while
warm.
Remove
drain
plug

or
cover to
drain
completely. If cover is removed,

it
may be necessary to replace gasket at this time.

c.
Refill
axle with specified
Limited
Slip Differen­

tial
lubricant.

d.
Operate the vehicle for approximately ten miles
[16,09
km.], making at least ten figure 8 turns
to flush the old lubricant out of the clutch packs.

e.
Repeat
steps
b, c, and d, making sure to replace
the cover gasket if required in
step
c.
f. It is possible that slight chatter, requiring ad­
ditional
vehicle operation, may remain after
step
e. If chatter persists after 100 miles
[160,9
km.]
of vehicle operation, or remains severe after
step

e above, disassembly and repair
will
be necessary.
N-27.
Unit
Inoperative

Proper
performance and capabilities of
Limited
Slip
Differentials are
often
misunderstood. No
precise
methods
of measuring
Limited
Slip Dif­

ferential
performance are generally available in the field. A functioning unit can be determined by
relatively
simple vehicle operational
tests,
as
follows:

a.
Place one wheel on
good
dry pavement, and the
other on ice, mud, grease, etc.

b.
Gradually
increase
engine
rpm to obtain maxi­

mum
traction
prior
to "break-a-way." The ability
to
move
the vehicle
effectively
will
demonstrate

proper
performance.

c.
If extremely slick surfaces, such as ice or grease,

are
used
some
question may exist as to proper per­
formance at
step
b. In
these
extreme cases a prop­

erly
performing
Limited
Slip Differential
will
pro­
vide greater "pulling" power by lightly applying
the parking brake.

N-23.
Trac-Lok
Differential Disassembly
and
Reassembly

It
is recommended that the
complete
axle assembly
be removed from the vehicle, when it
becomes
necessary to remove the
Trac-Lok
from the hous­

ing.
Refer to Par. N-3 and N-12 for removal of axle shafts and differential case from axle housing. 303

m

REAR AXLE
c. Attach the brake line
hose
at tee fitting on top
of housing.

d.
Attach parking brake cables at rear of brake
backing plate. DJ
models
only.
e. Connect the shock absorbers at the axle mount­
ing pads.
f. Connect the propeller shaft at the rear universal
joint.
g. Adjust and bleed brakes. (See Section P).

h.
Install
wheels
and lower vehicle to floor.
i.
Check parking brake as described in Section P.

j.
Fill
the axle housing with the proper lubricant.

For
correct lubricant refer to the
Lubrication
Chart.

N-34.
TROUBLE
SHOOTING

The
following problems can be present with either the conventional differential,
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-
Lok
differential.
N-35. Backlash

Excessive
backlash in the vehicle drive line may be the results of
excessive
backlash in the trans­
mission, propeller shaft spline, universal joint, ring gear and pinion, the axle shaft spline, or the dif­
ferential.
Excessive
backlash in the differential may be meas­

ured
as follows:
a.
Jack
up one rear wheel.
b. Put the transmission in gear.
c. Measure the travel of the jacked-up wheel on
a
10"
[25,40
cm.] radius from the wheel center.

This
total
movement
should not
exceed
IVi" [3,17 cm.] in a new unit. In order to restrict the

backlash
to the axles only, make sure that the
yoke of the propeller shaft
does
not
move
during
the check.

d.
If all causes of backlash mentioned
above
have

been
eliminated with the exception of the differen­

tial
and that still
exceeds
the maximum allowable
movement, overhaul the differential.
N-36.
Rear
Wheel
Noise

Looseness of the rear axle shaft nut on semifloat- ing tapered rear axles may produce a clicking or
creaking
noise.
This
noise
can usually be
stopped

by torquing the wheel hub nut 150 to 175 lb-ft. [20,7 a 24,2 kg-m.]. If the condition has continued
for
some
time, slight wear may have resulted allow­
ing the
noise
to persist. In this case, coat the hub,
key, and keyway on tapered axle shafts with white
lead and torque the nut as specified. If the
noise
persists after this treatment, replace the worn parts.

N-37.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Axle
Noisy on Pull and
Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . . . Adjust

End
Play Pinion Shaft Adjust

Worn
Pinion Shaft Bearing Adjust
Pinion
Set too Deep in Bevel
Gear
too Tight..... Adjust

Wrong
Lubricant
Being Used
(Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differential) . Replace

Axle
Noisy on
Pull
Pinion
and Bevel
Gear
Improperly Adjusted Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Rough....................... Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Loose Adjust

Axle
Noisy on Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . Adjust

Improper
Tooth Contact.
....................
Adjust
Rough Bearings Replace

Back
Lash
Worn
Differential Pinion
Gear
Washers Adjust
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

Worn
Universal Joints Replace
PROBABLE REMEDY

310

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

o

STEERING
SYSTEM
10

FIG.
0-7—STEERING
CONNECTING
ROD
(DRAG
LINK)
10696

1—Cotter Pin

2>—Large
Plug

3—
Ball
Seat

4—
Ball
Seat Spring 5—
Spring
Plug
shaft,
tightness
of the steering gear in the frame,

tightness
of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steer­ ing tie rod
ball
joint ends. Adjust the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
to maximum safe
tightness

at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k.
Check
front axle caster.
This
should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be

indicated
causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct
caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.

I.
Check
the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,

m.
Check
wheel
toe-out
on turns.
This
gives
you

an
indication of the proper angularity of the steer­
ing knuckle arms and tells whether or not they have been bent and require replacing. These may be checked by comparing them with new parts. If

an
arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n.
Check
wheel camber.
This
should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,

o.
Check
the king pin inclination. See Specifica­ tions.

p.
Check
the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an accident.

0-14.
STEERING
LINKAGE
SERVICE
The
steering linkage must maintain constant toe-
in
and
good
steering control under all driving
conditions.
This
requires
ball
joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated
for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in
the linkage, the joints must be replaced. When­
ever
ball
joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset. Because
some
members of the steering system may
have
become
bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting
Rod
(Drag
Link)

The
steering connecting rod is of the
ball
and socket
type. All
ball
seat springs and adjusting plugs are 6—
-Dust
Cover

7—
Dust
Shield
8—
Small
Adjusting Plug
9—
Lubrication
Fitting
10—Connecting Rod

identical,
the only difference
between
front and
rear
end being the relative location of the springs.

The
correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod
is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled
between
the
rod
and
ball
seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring
and spacer are
between
the
ball
seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the left.

When
removing springs and
seats
for any reason,
make
sure they are reassembled as shown in the

illustration
because this method of assembly re­
lieves road shock from the steering gear in both di­
rections. To adjust the
ball
joint, screw in the plug

firmly
against the
ball,
approximately 20 ft. lb. [2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin inserted through
holes
in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust the
ball
joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the end plug firmly against the
ball,
then back off one

full
turn
and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through
holes
in the tube and the slot in the ad­

justing
plug.

The
above adjustments
will
give
the proper spring
tension and avoid any
tightness
when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right
turn.
The
ball
joints must be tight enough to prevent end

play
and yet
loose
enough to allow free movement.
0-16. Tie Rod
The
tie rods are of three piece construction con­sisting of the rod and two
ball
and socket end as­ semblies.
Ball
and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,

around
each end of the rod. Right and left hand threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.

'Jeep'
Universal models are equipped with a

divided
tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member.
With
this type con­

struction
the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted in­
dependently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".

When
wear takes place in the tie rod end
ball
and socket, it
will
be necessary to replace the
ball
and socket assembly and also the rubber seal. 318

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
BRAKES

SUBJECT
PAR

GENERAL.
. P-l
Brake
Maintenance P-5
Master
Cylinder.
P-2

Parking
Brake
P-3
Transmission
Brake
P-4

BRAKE SERVICE
.P-6 Bleeding Brakes P-7

Brake
Adjustments P-14

Brake
Hoses P-8

Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment P-l9

Brake
Shoe Installation P-l8

Brake
Pedal Adjustment P-9

Hand
Brake.
P-10 Inspection P-17
SUBJECT
PAR

Brake
Shoe Removal P-l6

Master
Cylinder Reconditioned. . P-20

Parking
Brake
Adjustment
.P-l 1
Relining
Transmission
Brake
P-13

Relining
Wheel
Brake
P-l5

Transmission
Brake
Adjustment .P-12

Wheel
Brake
Units P-14

Wheel
Cylinder Reconditioning P-21

TROUBLESHOOTING
P-2 2 Squeaky Brakes P-23
Rattles in Brakes P-24

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
P-25

SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6

P-1. GENERAL
A
double-safety
hydraulic brake system in con­
junction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard
equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The
double-safety
brake system
Is
equipped with dual
stop
light switches that op­
erate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible
stop
light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All
four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a transmission brake that operates in the drive line

and
is mounted to the rear of the transfer case. Two-wheel-drive vehicles
(DJ-5,
DJ-6)
are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates at the rear wheels.

P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System

The
master cylinder (cast integrally with the res­

ervoir)
is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal
moves
the master cylin­der piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines. 12914

FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM —
LATE
MODELS 1— Stop Light Switch and Tee (Froat)
2—
Line
Tee (Front)

3—
Master
Cylinder (Dual System
4—
Brake
Pedal Assembly 5—
Brake
Hose
6—
Line
Tee
(Rear)
7—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left
Rear)

8— Proportioning Valve
(Early
Models)
9— —Stop Light Switch and Tee
(Rear)

10—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left Front)
11—
Front
Brake
Hoses
323

p
BRAKES

13264

FIG- P-2—DOUBLE
SAFETY BRAKE
MASTER
CYLINDER
With
the Double-Safety brake system type master

cylinder,
failure
in one part of the brake system

does
not result in
failure
of the entire hydraulic
brake system. Failure in the
front
brake system
will

leave the rear brake system
still
operative or
failure
in
the rear system
will
leave the
front
brake system

operative.

A
double hydraulic
cylinder
with
two outlets, two
residual
check valves, two
fluid
reservoirs, and

two
hydraulic pistons (a
primary
and secondary)
are operated in tandem by a single hydraulic push
rod.
The
primary
outlet is connected to the
front

brakes
with
the secondary outlet connected to the rear brakes.

With
the master
cylinder
fluid
reservoirs
filled
and the
front
and rear brake system
bled,
there is a
solid
column
of
fluid
on the
forward
side of both the

primary
and the secondary pistons.

Upon
application
of the brakes, through movement

of
the brake pedal,
fluid
is displaced by the pistons

into
the wheel cylinders to activate both
front
and
rear brakes.
Upon
release
of the brakes,
fluid
re­
turns
from
the rear wheel cylinders through the secondary residual check valve to the secondary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.
Fluid
also
returns
from
the
front
wheel cylinders through the

primary
residual check valve to the
primary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.

P-3.
Parking
Brakes
— DJ-5, DJ-6

a.
The parking brake is operated by a T-handle

lever
mounted to the
left
of the steering
column
and
suspended
from
the instrument panel. When
the brake lever is
pulled
outward, tension is exerted
on
the parking brake cable leading to the brake.
The
amount of brake
grip
depends
on the number

of
notches the lever is
pulled
out. To set the park­
ing
brake,
pull
out on the parking brake
control
T-handle.
To
release
the brake,
turn
the handle

slightly
and push it
forward.

0

FIG.
P-3—PARKING
BRAKE LINKAGE
—
DJ-5,
DJ-6
1—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Front)
7—Retracting
Spring
Link
13—Brake
Lever
Bracket

2—
Clip
8—Nut
14—Clevis
Pin

3—
Grommet
9—Nut
15—Cotter
Pin
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle
Assembly
10—Equalizer
16—Clevis
Pin

5—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Rear)
11—Adjusting
Rod
17—Cotter
Pin
6—
Retracting
Spring
12—Hand
Brake
Lever
324