tire pressure JEEP DJ 1953 Service Manual

B

LUBRICATION
B-72.
Powr-Lok
or Trac-Lok
Differential

Refer
to Par. B-53.

B-73.
PARTS
REQUIRING
NO
LUBRICATION

B-74.
Water Pump Bearing,
Clutch
Release
Bearing

The
water pump and clutch release bearings are

prelubricated
for life when manufactured and cannot be relubricated.

B-7S.
Starter
Motor
Bearings

The
starting motor bearings are lubricated at assembly to last
between
normal rebuild periods.

B-76.
Alternator Bearings

The
alternator bearings are lubricated at assembly

and
require no further lubrication.

B-77.
Springs

The
vehicle springs should not be lubricated. At assembly the leaves are coated with a long-lasting

special
lubricant which is designed to last the life
of the springs. Spraying with the usual mixture of
oil
and kerosene has a tendency to wash this
lubri­

cant
from
between
the leaves, making it necessary
to relubricate
often
to eliminate squeaking.

B-78.
Shock Absorbers

Hydraulic
direct-action shock absorbers are per­ manently sealed and require no periodic
lubrica­

tion service. Shock absorber mounting bushings
are
not to be lubricated.

B-79.
LUBRICATION
REQUIREMENTS
FOR
OFF-HIGHWAY
OPERATION

Adequate lubrication
becomes
increasingly im­ portant when vehicles are used in off-highway
operation. Under
these
conditions all operating
parts
of both the
engine
and chassis are subjected
to unusual pressures. At the same time such operation is usually under abnormal dust and
dirt

conditions making additional precautions neces­

sary.
The importance of correct lubrication for
the conditions of operation cannot be overestimated.

B-80.
Engine
Oil

It
is important, that the oil in a new or rebuilt
engine
be changed after the first
eight
or ten hours
of operation, and for heavy, dusty work, every 50

hours
thereafter. Watch the condition of the oil closely and change it immediately if it appears to
be contaminated.

i-Il.
Engine
Oil
Filter

Replace
the oil filter at the end of the first 100

hours
of service. Under extreme operating con­ ditions, more frequent replacement may be re­
quired.
The condition of the oil is a reliable

indicator
of the condition of the filter element.
If
the oil
becomes
discolored and shows evidence
of contamination, change the filter without delay.
(Refer
to
Par.
B-10, B-ll for the correct procedure
for replacing the oil filter.)

B-82.
Air Cleaner

Care
of the air cleaner is extremely vital to the life of the engine. Pay particular attention to the
amount of dust and
dirt
in the air taken into the

engine
through the air cleaner. When dust is not
noticeable in the air, service the air cleaner each scheduled maintenance period. Whenever the air is
noticeably dusty (for example when the vehicle is

driven
on secondary roads or through fields) then
service the air cleaner more frequently. Under extreme continually dusty and dirty conditions
where the vehicle operates in clouds of dust and

dirt,
service the air cleaner daily. (Refer to Par.
B-24
thru
B-26 for service procedures.)

B-83.
Chassis
Lubrication

The
period of lubrication depends entirely upon the type of work being done. Using the specified

interval
given in the Service Maintenance Schedule as a guide, lubricate at safe intervals required for
the particular type of operation. Under extremely
dusty conditions lubricate
these
points daily. Be

sure
to force enough lubricant into each fitting to force out the old lubricant which might be con­
taminated with grit and which would cause
rapid

wear
if allowed to remain.
Do not place lubricant on the various
ball
and socket joints or pivot points of the lift linkage as
dirt
will
accumulate to form an abrasive mix­

ture.
It is
best
to simply wipe
these
parts clean

with
a cloth.

B-84.
Front
Axle
Shaft Universal Joints

For
off-highway use remove the universal joints twice yearly, thoroughly clean both the housings

and
joints with a suitable solvent, and
refill
the
housings to the
fill
plug opening levels with the

correct
lubricant as given in the
Lubrication
Specifications.

B-85.
Transmission and Transfer
Case

The
combined capacity of the two housings is
small
for economy, making it important that the

lubricant
be changed at regular intervals. For off-highway use
drain
both housings every 300

hours
of operation and
refill
to the
fill
plug opening
levels. Refer to B-35 through B-37 when changing

lubricant.

B-86.
Front and
Rear
Axle
Differentials

Because of the higher pressure developed in the
axle assemblies with heavy duty operation,
drain,

flush,
and
refill
the differential assemblies each 300 hours of operation. Use only flushing oil or light
engine
oil to clean out the housings (except

Powr-Lok
and
Trac-Lok
differentials). Refer to
Par.
B-52 and B-53 for draining and flushing

differential.
18

TUNE-UP

C-29.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

POOR
FUEL ECONOMY Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted High Fuel Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage

Leaky
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level in Carburetor

Low
Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad
Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment

Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve

LACK
OF POWER
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged

Air
Cleaner Restricted Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged

Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

LOW
COMPRESSION
Leaky
Valves Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect Piston Clearance too Large

Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket

BURNED
VALVES AND SEATS Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System

Defective
Valve
Lifter
— Hydraulic
VALVES
STICKING
Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems

Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil

OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve — Dauntless V-6 Engine

POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing

Clogged
Fuel Filter Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

EXCESSIVE
OIL CONSUMPTION Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged

Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-
Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating

BEARING
FAILURE
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage

Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure

Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 34

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Lubricate
the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with
engine
oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the num­
bered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The con­
necting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.

Used
stamped nuts should be discarded and re­
placed with new
ones.
These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut.
Turn
the locking nut finger
tight and then 34
turn
more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.

D-96.
Install
Crankshaft
Pulley

Align
the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley

onto
the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood

between
one of the counterweights on the
crank­

shaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.

D-97.
Install
Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new

oil
pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in posi­
tion on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque
the attaching
bolts
12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1

kg-m.].
Install
the oil pan
drain
plug and gasket

and
tighten the plug securely.

D-98.
Install
Cylinder
Head

Make
certain that the entire top of the cylinder

block
assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder

head,
and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow

all
dirt
or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt
holes

in
the cylinder block before the cylinder head and gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer

Part
No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head gasket with the crimped
edges
of the gasket metal down (See Fig. D-31).
This
gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the
cylin­

der
head
between
the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
10102

FIG.
D-41—CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
gases
reaching
an
asbestos
portion of the cylinder
head gasket.
Install
the cylinder head bolts. Tighten

the
bolts
with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft. 8,3 a 9,7
kg-m.]
in the sequence shown in
Fig.
D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt

in
the intake
manifold
directly under the
car­

buretor
opening.

D-99.
Install
Rocker Arm Assembly

a.
Insert
ball
ends of the intake valve push rods through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.

b.
Install
the
rocker-arm
assembly on the 'four

rocker-arm-mounting
studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the
ball
ends of the intake valve tappet

adjusting
screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.

c.
Install
the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread
each nut down evenly in sequence, one

turn
at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].

d.
Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install
the cover placing an oil seal then a flat

washer
and nut on each cover stud. Cement a new gasket on the exhaust valve cover.
Install
the cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring
gaskets under the attaching screw heads.

Torque
the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft. [1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100.
Install
Distributor and
Spark
Plugs

To
correctly install the distributor, it
will
be neces­

sary
to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To
locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first

turn
the
engine
until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression

pressure
being forced through the
spark
plug open­

ing.
Turn
the
engine
slowly until the 5° before top
center
mark
on the timing gear cover is in align­
ment with the
mark
on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the
cylin­
der
block and install the distributor. Mount the

rotor
on distributor shaft and
turn
the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1
spark
plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

Connect
the core
primary
wire to the distributor.

Clean
and adjust the
spark
plugs, setting the elec­

trode
gaps
at .030" [0,762 mm.].
Install
the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the com­
bustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque
the
spark
plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6

kg-m.].

Install
spark
plug cables, placing them in the dis­

tributor
cap terminal towers starting with No. 1

and
installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2). 67

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level

in
Carburetor

Low
Compression Valves Sticking

Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe

Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points

Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points

Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap

Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation

Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings

Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham­
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close

Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

FIG.
D1-28—CLEANING
OR
ENLARGING
VALVE
GUIDE

1—Reamer
d.
Measure clearance of each valve stem in cor­
responding valve guide. For intake valves, this
clearance
should be .0012" to .0032" [0,0305 a

0,0813
mm.]. For exhaust valves, this clearance should be .0015" to .0035"
[0,0381
a
0,0889
mm.]
at top of guide and .002" to .004"
[0,051
a 0,102 mm.] at bottom of guide. If this clearance is exces­
sive, valve guides must be reamed with .004" [0,102 mm.] oversized reamer J-5830-1 and valves

replaced
by new valves with oversize stems.

Dl-63.
Cylinder
Head
and Valve
Repair
a.
If a valve stem has excessive clearance in its
guide, the guide must be reamed .004" [0,102 mm.]
oversize. Valves are available with oversize stems
to fit this valve guide diameter.

b.
Grind
valve faces or replace valves if necessary.

Valve
faces must be ground at an angle of 45 degrees. If a valve head must be ground to a
knife
edge
to obtain a true face, the valve should
be replaced.

c.
If necessary, grind valve seats at an angle of 45 degrees.
Grinding
a valve seat decreases valve
spring
pressure and increases the width of the seat.

The
nominal width of the valve seat is
[
1,59
mm.].
If a valve seat is wider than %" [1,98 mm.]
after grinding, it should be narrowed to specified

width
by the use of 20-degree and 70-degree stones.
Improper
operation of a hydraulic valve lifter may

result
if valve and seat are refinished to the extent
that the valve stem is raised more than .050" [1,27 mm.] above normal height. In this case, it
is necessary to grind off the end of the valve stetti or replace parts.

Note:
The normal height of the valve stem above
the valve spring seat surface of the head is
1.925"
[4,889 cm.].

d.
Lightly
lap the valves into seats with fine grind­
ing compound. The refacing and reseating should
leave the refinished surfaces smooth and true so that a minimum of lapping
will
be required. Ex­
cessive lapping
will
groove the valve face and pre­
vent
good
valve seating.
e. Test valve seats for concentricity with guides,
and
for proper valve seating. Coat a small segment
of the valve face lightly with Prussian blue pig­ ment.. Insert the valve stem into its guide and

turn
the valve face against the seat. If the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide, a
mark

will
be made all around the seat. If the seat is not concentric with the guide, a
mark
will
be made
on only one side of the seat.

Clean
all pigment from both valve and seat. .Next,
coat a small segment of the valve seat lightly with

Prussian
blue pigment. Again insert the valve stem into its guide and rotate the valve face against the
seat. If the valve face is concentric with the valve
stem, and if the valve is seating all the way around,
pigment
will
coat the valve face with a uniform
band
around its entire perimeter. Both of
these

tests
are necessary to prove that proper valve seat­
ing is obtained.
f. Inspect the valve springs visually for corrosion,

breaks,
and distortion.
With
a valve spring tester
check
each valve spring for proper tension. When

a
valve spring is compressed to a length of
1.640"
[4,166 cm.] (closed-valve condition), it should
have a tension of 64 lb. [29,03 kg.]. When a valve
spring
is compressed to a length of
1.260"
[3,200
cm.] (open-valve condition), it should have ten­ sion of 168 lb. [76,205 kg.]. Replace any valve
spring
which is visibly damaged or
does
not
meet

tension specifications.

Dl-64.
Valve Installation

Lubricate
valve stems with engine oil.
Install
valves, valve springs, spring retainers, and valve

retainers
on the cylinder head. Use the same equipment and reverse procedure used for removal.

Install
valve springs with closely wound coils to­

ward
the cylinder head. Refer to Fig. Dl-29.
FIG.
Dl-29—VALVE
SPRING

1—
Spring

2—
Close
Wound
Coils
Toward
Head
94

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl
Dl-104.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Late or Spark Advance Inoperative

Carburetor
Float Setting Too High
Accelerator Pump Improperly Adjusted
Fuel
Pump Pressure High

Fuel
Line
Leakage

Fuel
Pump Diaphragm Leakage
Cylinder
Compression Low
Valves Do Not Seat Properly
Spark
Plugs
Defective

Spark
Plug Cables
Defective

Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty

Brakes
Drag
Wheel Alignment Incorrect

Tire
Pressure Incorrect Odometer Inaccurate

Fuel
Tank
Cap Clogged or
Defective

Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Lack
of
Power
Cylinder
Compression Low
Ingitdon Timing Late

Carburetor
or
Fuel
Pump Clogged or
Defective

Fuel
Lines Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Valves Do Not Seat Property

Valve
Timing Late Intake Manifold or Cylinder Head
Gasket Leaks
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Spark
Plugs Dirty or
Defective

Breaker
Point Gap Incorrect
Breaker
Points
Defective
Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Electrical
Connection Loose
Broken
Valve Spring

Broken
Piston Ring or Piston
Cylinder
Head Gasket
Defective

Distributor Cap Cracked

Low
Compression
Valves Not Seating Properly Piston Rings Seal Poorly
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Piston Clearance Too Great

Cylinder
Head Gasket Leaks

Burned
Valves and
Seats
Valves Stick or Are Too Loose in Guides
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Valve
Head and Seat Have Excessive Carbon
Engine Overheats

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Lifter Seized or Collapsed
Exhaust
System Clogged
Valves Sticking

Valve
Stem Warped

Valve
Stem Carbonized or Scored

Valve
Stem Clearance Insufficient in Guide

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Spring Distorted
Oil
Contaminated

Overheating
Cooling System Inoperative
Thermostat Inoperative Ignition Timing Incorrect

Valve
Timing Incorrect
Carbon
Accumulation Excessive

Fan
Belt Loose
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Oil
System Failure
Piston Rings Worn or Scored
Popping,
Spitting,
Detonation
Ignition Timing Incorrect

Carburetion
Improper

Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Chambers Excessive
Valves Not Seating Properly
Valve
Spring Broken
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Fuel
Line
Clogged
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Excessive
Oil
Consumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Weak,
Worn,
Broken, or Incorrectly Fitted

Crankshaft
Main Bearings or
Connecting Rod Bearings Have
Excessive Clearance
Gaskets or Oil Seals
Leak

Cylinder
Bores Worn, Scored,
Out-of-Round or Tapered
Pistons Have Too Great Clearance to Cylinder Bores
Connecting Rods Misaligned High Road Speed
High Temperature

Crankcase
Ventilation System Inoperative
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough or Out-of-Round

Oil
Level Low
Oil
Leakage

Oil
Dirty
Oil
Pressure Low or Lacking
(Oil
Pump Failure)

Drilled
Passages
in Crankshaft or
Crankcase
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 105

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
there is a relief valve that
opens
to reduce high
(dangerous) pressures in the fuel tank. In con­

junction
with the pressure relief valve there is a
vacuum
relief valve to
stop
collapse of the fuel

tank
in case of a plugged system or failure of the demand valve. When replacing the gas cap, the
same type must be used as originally installed.

E-8.
System Inspection Test

The
fuel emission vent system should be checked

carefully
to ensure the absence of any leaks to the
atmosphere of either liquid or vapor which might
affect the accuracy, safety, or performance of the control system.

To
assure that the sealed system has been properly

installed,
the following
test
procedure has been
developed.
Disconnect the vent line from the fuel tank system
to the activated charcoal canister, induce l/i p.s.i.
air
pressure. If this pressure can be maintained for

a
few seconds the vent system is assured to be sealed. DO NOT add air pressure to the canister
because damage can occur to the demand valve if
care
is not taken.

E-9.
Servicing the System

Periodic
Maintenance — Replace carbon canister filter at
12,000
miles
[19,200
km.] or 12 month in­tervals (more
often
for operation in dusty areas).

This
is the only regular maintenance service

required.

Canister
Filter
Replacement — Disconnect
hoses

from
top of canister, remove canister from mount
-

t
FIG.
E-5—CARBURETOR—
F4 ENGINE,
EARLY
MODEL
1—
Choke
Clamp
Bracket

2—
Choke
Shaft and
Lever
Assembly

3—
Fuel
Inlet
Elbow

4—
Bowl
Vent Tube 5—
Idle
Air Adjusting
Needle
6—
Throttle
Lever
and Shaft Assembly
7—
Idle
Speed Adjusting Screw
8—
Fast
Idle Connector Rod ing bracket. Remove cover from
bottom
of canister
by pulling it down to
disengage
clips. Remove and
discard
polyurethane filter element
(squeeze
ele­

ment out from under retainer bar).
Install
new
filter by squeezing element under retainer bar and positioning it evenly around entire
bottom
of
canister with
edges
tucked under canister lip, snap

bottom
cover in place, reinstall canister on bracket

and
reconnect
hoses.

Vapor
line
hoses
used in this system are made of

special
rubber material.
Bulk
hoses
are available for
parts
service.
Ordinary
rubber
hose
should not be
used to service vapor lines as they are subject to deterioration and may clog the system.
Liquid

vapor separators or expansion tanks and canisters

are
serviced as complete units only.
Canister
air filters, however, are serviced separately.

E-10.
CARBURETOR
—
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

A
single-barrel manual choke, down-draft carbure­
tor (Fig. E-6) is used on the
Hurricane
F4 engine.
The
carburetor is internally vented by a tube
opening located in the air horn body of the
car­

buretor.
This
opening is connected by a rubber
tube to the air
outlet
horn of the air cleaner thus
allowing only filtered atmospheric pressure air
to enter the float chamber for balance pressure
of the carburetor fuel.

Note:
A carburetor with a specific flow character­

istic
is used for exhaust emission control. The
carburetor
is identified by a number, and the correct

carburetor
must be used, when replacement is
necessary.

Early
production models
CJ-3B,
CJ-5,
CJ-5A,
CJ-6,
and
CJ-6A
have a
Carter
YF-938SD
carbure­
tor superseding the earlier
YF-938SC,
YF-938SA,

or
YF-938S
models.

Note."
Conversion kits for changing earlier models
to SD models are available. See Par E-23. It is recommended that when a carburetor is converted
that a tag be fashioned stamped with the new model number and installed under one of the air

horn
screws.
Look
for such a tag to determine if
the carburetor has previously been converted.

Carburetors
listed above are all in the same YF
series and have only minor differences. Descriptions
and
repair procedures given in the following
para­
graphs apply equally to all
YF-series
carburetors.
YF-series
carburetors employ manual and vacuum
control of the metering rod and accelerator pump.
The
carburetor controls and vaporizes the fuel
through five separate systems: float system, low-
speed system, high-speed system, choke system,

and
accelerating-pump system. A description of the function and operation of each system provides an over all description of the carburetor.

For
identification, the series designation is stamped
on the body under the name
Carter
and the model
designation is stamped on a flange protruding
from
the body.

Note:
When checking for carburetor icing causes,
also check the vacuum-pump-to-manifold vacuum
line connector. 113

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
E-47.
Reassembly

•
Refer to Fig. E-29.
Install
the valve gaskets, valves, valve retainer and
secure them with the valve retainer screws. Make
sure that the inlet and
outlet
valves are in their proper positions. Place the diaphragm spring re­
tainer in position on the diaphragm
pull
rod
and
install diaphragm spring. Position the
dia­

phragm assembly in pump
body
and attach the
cover to pump body, with file marks aligned, with
the six attaching screws. Do not draw the screws
up tight.
Install
rocker arm spring, rocker arm

pin
washers, rocker arm and rocker arm pin.
With

rocker
arm positioned on the diaphragm rod, draw
the six pump
body
screws up evenly and securely.
Install
the filter screen, cork gasket and sediment
bowl and secure them firmly with the thumb screw
on the bowl clamp.

E-48.
Vacuum
Pump

The
double-action fuel pump resembles two single-
action pumps placed one
above
the other. A single
fuel pump rocker arm actuates the two separate diaphragms. One diaphragm is part of the fuel
delivery pump and operates as described in Par.
E-45.
The other diaphragm is part of the vacuum
pump and operates as described here.

As
the actuating lever forces the diaphragm upward against spring pressure, air is forced through the

outlet
port
into
the
engine's
intake manifold. On
the return stroke, spring pressure forces the
dia­
phragm downward, creating a
partial
vacuum and
opening the inlet valve. In this manner, air is pumped out of the windshield wiper motor and
into

the intake manifold. When the wiper motor is shut off, manifold vacuum holds the diaphragm against its spring so that the
full
motion of the actuating
lever is not accompanied by a
complete
up-and-
down motion of the diaphragm.

When
the windshield wiper motor is turned on, but manifold vacuum is greater than the vacuum
created by the
booster
pump, air
flows
from the
wiper motor through both valves of the vacuum
booster.
As manifold vacuum drops off as a result
of the
engine
operating under low
speed
and high load, the vacuum created by the vacuum
booster

will
be greater than
engine
intake manifold vacuum

and
the pump
will
operate the wiper motor when the wiper control switch is turned on.

•
Refer to Fig. E-29. Remove the
eight
cover attaching screws and
lockwashers, and remove the cover, diaphragm

spring
and spring seat. Detach the diaphragm rod
from the rocker arm and remove the diaphragm.
The
valve assemblies are pressed
into
the cover

and
body
and lightly staked. They may be removed
with the point of a knife blade. If installing new valves be sure the inlet and
outlet
valves are
correctly positioned and stake them lightly with

a
small punch.
Assemble the vacuum pump in the reverse order
of disassembly, drawing the cover attaching screws up evenly and tightly.
E-49.
Fuel
Pump
Testing

Four
tests
are presented in following paragraphs to
test
for proper operation of the fuel pump. In addi­
tion, check the following:

a.
Check
for secure mounting of the fuel pump.

The
rocker arm may be working the entire pump
up and down, rather than just the pump
dia­

phragms.
b. Remove and clean the fuel sediment bowl.
c.
Check
all fuel lines.
E-50.
Volume
Check

To
measure fuel pump capacity (amount of fuel
delivered in a given time) disconnect the pump-to-

carburetor
line at the carburetor end. Place the

open
end of the line in a suitable container.
Start

the
engine
and operate at normal idle speed.
Delivery
should be one quart U.S. [1 ltr.] within
one minute.

E-51.
Pressure
Check

To
measure fuel pump pressure (force of fuel de­

livery)
disconnect the pump-to-carburetor line
at the carburetor end. Plug a pressure
gauge
and T-fitting
into
the
open
end of this line and
into
the

carburetor.
Start
the
engine
and operate at normal
idle speed. Pressure should be 2J4 to 3% psi.
[0,716
a
0,264
kg-cm2] at 1800 rpm. and at 16"
[406 mm.]
above
the
outlet.

E-52.
Vacuum
Check

To
measure fuel pump vacuum (pull of. the pump
at the inlet side) disconnect the pump-to-fuel-tank
line at the fuel pump. Attach a vacuum
gauge
to the fuel pump inlet.
Start
the
engine,
accelerate to
specified speed, and hold this
engine
speed
while
taking a
gauge
reading. Permissible
gauge
reading
is 8* [203 mm.] of mercury [Hg] at 1200 rpm. and
10j^'
[267 mm.] at 1800 rpm.
E-53.
Vacuum
Booster
Check

To
test
the condition of the vacuum
booster
pump,
disconnect both inlet and
outlet
lines at the pump.

Attach
a vacuum
gauge
to the windshield wiper
connection at the pump.
Start
the
engine,
accelerate
to
2000
rpm., and hold this
engine
speed
while taking a
gauge
reading. Permissible
gauge
reading
is 10* to 14" [254 a 356 cm.] of mercury [Hg].
E-54.'
FUEL
PUMP
(SINGLE-ACTION)
—
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
•
Early
Models.
Vehicles with electric windshield wiper motors are
equipped with a single-action fuel pump (Fig.

E-30).
The fuel pump cam lever is activated by an eccentric on the
engine
camshaft. When the
car­

buretor float
needle
valve closes, accumulation of
fuel in the pump
extends
the diaphragm spring.

This
action causes the rocker arm linkage to be­
come
inoperative until the pressure on the
dia­
phragm and spring is reduced. The fuel pump dis­
charge pressure is thus controlled by the diaphragm

spring.
This
provides a steady supply of fuel to the
carburetor
at a fairly constant pressure. 127

G
COOLING SYSTEM
engine
connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core.
Care
must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.

G-2.
Filling
Cooling System
To
fill
the cooling system, remove the
fill
cap and

fill
the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the
engine
at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling system is filled when the
engine
is cold, recheck the coolant level after the
engine
has warmed up.
This

will
ensure that the thermostat has opened allow­ ing complete cooling system circulation.

Always
correct any cooling system leaks before installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should be used in the cooling system to prevent the forma­
tion of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.

When
the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.

Note:
Cooling system components for both V6 and

F4
engines
are shown in
Figs.
G-2 and G-3.

G-3. Draining
Cooling System

To
completely
drain
the cooling system, open the

drain
in the
bottom
of the radiator and also a

drain
on the right side of the cylinder block on the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The Dauntless V-6
engine

has two
drain
plugs, one located on each side of the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely
drain
the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.

Should
the cooling solution be lost from the system

and
the
engine
become
overheated do not
refill

the system immediately but allow the
engine
to cool or
refill
slowly while the
engine
is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the

engine
is overheated there is danger of cracking the

cylinder
block and/or cylinder head.
G-4.
Radiator Pressure
Cap

All
radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make the
engines
more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly,
the pressure cap permits pressure build-up

in
the cooling system during periods of severe heat

load.
This
pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The

effectiveness
of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note
below). The pressure cap employs a spring-
loaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pres­

sure
determines the opening pressure of the valve.

A
typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.

Note:
Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.

G-21)
for opening (relief) pressure when the ve­
hicle is equipped with either the
Hurricane
F4
or
Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required, always install a cap of the same type and pressure
rating
specified. It should never be altered or re­
placed by a plain cap.

A
vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the system
cools
down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.

Vacuum
in the system is relieved by the valve
which
opens
at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

vacuum.
A pressure tester can be used to check and
test
the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap re­ quires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of opera­ tion. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they

are
providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler
neck reseating
tools
are commercially
avail­
able to correct minor
defects
at the surface of the seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manu­

facturer.

To
remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine
coolant temperature is high or boiling, place

a
cloth over the pressure cap and
turn
counter­ clockwise about Vi
turn
until the first (pressure release)
stop
is reached. Keep the cap in this posi­
tion until all pressure is released.
Then
push cap
down and
turn
still
further until cap can be re­ moved. To install the pressure cap, place it in posi­
tion and
turn
it clockwise as far as it
will
go.

Caution:
Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. In overheated systems, the sudden release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this

flash,
or the
loosened
cap can cause serious personal

injury.

G-5.
RADIATOR

Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from

leaks.
Check
the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first.
This
exterior of the

radiator
core should be cleaned and the radiator inspected for leaks each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should be performed by blowing out with air stream or water stream directed from the
rear
of the radiator.

Visual
inspection is not sufficient as the accumula­ tion of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core openings.

Radiator
leakage occasionally results from cor­
rosion perforation of the metal but most leakage results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures
occur most
often
at the joint where the
radiator
inlet and
outlet
pipes are attached to the

tanks.
When the seams break, the entire soldered

joint
is
exposed
and can corrode, but breakage
rather
than corrosion is the
primary
cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust.
White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate 164

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT- HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—Temperature
Sending Unit

b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in
the left
rear
area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.

G-ll.
WATER PUMP

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
water pump on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is a

centrifugal
impeller type of large capacity to
cir­

culate water in the entire cooling system. The double row
ball
bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which
will
last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant
and prevent
dirt
and dust from entering.

The
bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water
seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintain­
ing a constant pressure against both and preventing

water
leakage. A
drain
hole
in the
bottom
of the
pump body precludes any water
seepage
past the

seal
from entering the bearing.
The
impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

A
centrifugal-type water pump, shown in
Fig.
G-10,

circulates
coolant through the Dauntless V-6
engine

and
its cooling system.
This
pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover.
Similar
to the
engine
cooling
fan
mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a
V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.

Coolant
enters the water pump at its center.
Centri­

fugal force then forces coolant radially outward, through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket.
This

water
pump has a sealed double row
ball
bearing
and
a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be

serviced.
In
event
of bearing or water seal failure, the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2.
Water
Pump Inspection

Check
the water pump for leaks, and excessive end play or
looseness
of the shaft in the pump. A

quick
way to check is to work the fan blades up
and
down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bear­ings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.

G-13.
Water Pump
Disassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.

a.
Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.

b.
Remove the
bolts
attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.

c.
Remove the bearing retainer spring.

d.
Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a suitable puller.

e.
Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and

bearing
slinger.

G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal
seat in the pump body and should it be rough,

install
a new pump body.

To
reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the

FIG.
G-9—WATER
PUMP-
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Fan
and Pump Pulley
2—
Bearing
and Shaft

3—
Bearing
Retainer Spring

A—Pipe
Plug 5—
Pump
Body
6—
Seal
Washer 7—
Pump
Seal
8—
Impeller

9—
Gasket
167