Plugs JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel
filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition coil rail 11. Test and replace, as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and
de-carbon. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - REMOVAL) for
correct procedure.
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit.
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING)
4. Faulty coil rail 4. Test and replace, if necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
5. Intake manifold vacuum leak 5. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses. Replace if necessary.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/
INTAKE MANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and
set gap.
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace spark plug cables.
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil rail 5. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction tube loose,
broken, bent or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or
replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon
piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 8 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Ring Side Clearance
Compression Rings 0.042 to 0.084 mm
(0.0017 to 0.0033 in.)
Oil Control Rings 0.06 to 0.21 mm
(0.0024 to 0.0083 in.)
Piston Ring Groove
Height
Compression Rings 1.530 to 1.555 mm
(0.0602 to 0.0612 in.)
Oil Control Ring 4.035 to 4.060 mm
(0.1589 to 0.1598 in.)
Piston Ring Groove
Diameter
No.1 Compression Ring 88.39 to 88.65 mm
(3.48 to 3.49 in.)
No.2 Compression Ring 87.63 to 87.88 mm
(3.45 to 3.46 in.)
Oil Control Ring 89.66 to 89.92 mm
(3.53 to 3.54 in.)
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 23.650 to 23.658 mm
(0.9312 to 0.9315 in.)
Piston Pin Diameter 23.637 to 23.640 mm
(0.9306 to 0.9307 in.)
Piston-to-Pin Clearance 0.0102 to 0.0208 mm
(0.0005 to 0.0009 in.)
Piston-to-Pin Connecting
Rod (Press Fit) 8.9 kN (2000 lbf.)
OIL PUMP
Gear-to-Body Clearance 0.051 to 0.102 mm
(Radial) (0.002 to 0.004 in.)
Gear-to-Body Clearance
(Radial) Preferred 0.051 mm (0.002 in.)
Gear End Clearance 0.051 to 0.152 mm
Plastigage (0.002 to 0.006 in.)
Gear End Clearance
Plastigage (Preferred) 0.051 mm (0.002 in.)
Gear End Clearance 0.1016 to 0.2032 mm
Feeler Gauge (0.004 to 0.008 in.)DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Gear End Clearance
Feeler Gauge (Preferred) 0.1778 mm (0.007 in.)
Oil Pressure
At Idle Speed 89.6 kPa (13 psi)
At 1600 rpm & Higher 255 to 517 kPa
(37 to 75 psi)
Oil Pressure Relief 517 kPa (75 psi)
TORQUE - 4.0L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
A/C CompressorÐBolts 28 Ð 250
Block HeaterÐNut 2 Ð 16
Camshaft SprocketÐBolt 68 50 Ð
Camshaft Thrust Plate to
Cylinder BlockÐScrews 24 18 Ð
Clutch Cover to FlywheelÐBolts 54 40 Ð
Coil Bracket to BlockÐBolts 22 Ð 192
Connecting RodÐNuts 45 33 Ð
Cylinder BlockÐDrain Plugs 34 25 Ð
Cylinder HeadÐBolts 135 100 Ð
Cylinder Head CoverÐBolts 10 Ð 85
Distributor ClampÐBolts 23 Ð 204
Engine MountsÐFront
Support Bracket Bolts 61 45 Ð
Support Cushion Bolts/Nuts 41 30 Ð
Support Cushion Bracket Bolts 54 40 Ð
Support Cushion Bracket Stud
Nuts41 30 Ð
Support Cushion Thru-Bolt 65 48 Ð
Engine MountsÐRear
Crossmember to Sill BoltsÐ
(Automatic) 41 30 Ð
Insulator Stud AssemblyÐNut 41 30 Ð
Support Cushion/
CrossmemberÐ
Nuts 22 Ð 192
Support Cushion/BracketÐNuts
(Manual) 75 55 Ð
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 17
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Transmission Support Bracket
ÐBolt (Manual) 46 34 Ð
Transmission Support Bracket/
CushionÐBolt (4WD Auto) 75 55 Ð
Transmission Support Adaptor
BracketÐBolts (2WD Auto) 75 55 Ð
Exhaust Manifold/PipeÐNuts 27 20 Ð
Intake/Exhaust Manifold
Fasteners #1-5 33 24 Ð
Fasteners #6 and 7 14 Ð 126
Fasteners #8-11 33 24 Ð
Flywheel to Converter
HousingÐBolts38 28 Ð
Flywheel to CrankshaftÐBolts 143 105 Ð
Front Cover to BlockÐBolts
1/4-20 7 Ð 60
5/16-18 22 Ð 192
Fuel RailÐBolts/Stud 12 Ð 108
GeneratorÐBolts 57 42 Ð
Generator Bracket to EngineÐ
Bolts47 35 Ð
Idler Pulley to Cylinder
HeadÐBolt47 35 Ð
Main Bearing CapÐBolts 108 80 Ð
Oil Filter 18 Ð 156
Oil Filter Connector to
Adaptor 47 35 Ð
Block 68 50 Ð
Adaptor Bolts 102 50 Ð
Oil GalleyÐPlug 41 30 Ð
Oil PanÐBolts
1/4-20 9.5 Ð 84
5/16-18 15 Ð 132
Oil PanÐDrain Plug 34 25 Ð
Oil Pump
Mounting Bolts 23 Ð 204
Cover Bolts 8 Ð 70
Rocker Arm Assembly to
Cylinder
HeadÐCapscrews 30 21 Ð
Spark Plugs 37 27 ÐDESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Starter MotorÐMounting Bolts 45 33 Ð
Thermostat HousingÐBolts 18 Ð 156
Throttle BodyÐBolts 10 Ð 90
Vibration DamperÐBolt 108 80 Ð
Water Pump to BlockÐBolts 23 17 Ð
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL - 4.0L
(1) Unlatch four clips retaining air cleaner cover to
air cleaner housing (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 Air Cleaner Assembly Ð4.0L Engine
1 - RESONATOR BOLTS
2 - CLAMPS
3 - AIR DUCT
4 - AIR CLEANER COVER
5 - CLIPS
6 - HOUSING
7 - HOUSING BOLTS (3)
8 - LOWER HOUSING NUTS (3)
9 - RESONATOR
9 - 18 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(2) Lift cover up and position to the side.
(3) Remove air cleaner element.
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
(1) Clean inside of air cleaner housing before
installing new element.
(2) Install air cleaner element into housing.
(3) Latch clips and clamp cover down to secure. Be
sure air cleaner cover is properly seated to air
cleaner housing.
AIR CLEANER HOUSING
REMOVAL - 4.0L
(1) Disconnect air cleaner cover-to-air duct clamp
(Fig. 6).
(2) Disconnect air duct at housing.
(3)Each of the 3 air cleaner housing mount-
ing bolts is attached with 2 nuts (an upper nut
and lower nut). DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS. To
prevent stripping bolts, only remove lower
nuts. The lower housing nuts are located under
left front inner fender (Fig. 6).
(a) To gain access to lower nuts, raise vehicle.
(b) Remove clips retaining rubber inner fender
shield.
(c) Pry back shield enough to gain access to
lower nuts.
(d) Remove 3 nuts.
(e) Remove air cleaner assembly from vehicle.
(4) If resonator is to be removed, disconnect
breather tube at resonator, disconnect air duct clamp
at resonator (Fig. 6)and remove 1 resonator mount-
ing bolt. Remove resonator from throttle body by
loosening clamp (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
(1) Position air cleaner assembly to body and
install 3 nuts. Tighten nuts to 10 N´m (93 in. lbs.)
torque.To prevent excessive vibration transmit-
ted through housing, the nuts must be properly
torqued. Do not overtighten nuts.
(2) If resonator was removed: Install resonator and
bolts. Tighten bolts to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten clamp at throttle body to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Position fender liner and install clips.
(4) Connect air duct at housing (Fig. 6).
(5) Tighten air duct clamp.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head is made of cast iron containing
twelve valves made of chrome plated heat resistant
steel, valve stem seals, springs, retainers and keep-
ers. The cylinder head and valve seats can be resur-
faced for service purposes.
The valve guides are integral to the cylinder head,
They are not replaceable. However, they are service-
able.
The cylinder head uses dual quench-type design
combustion chambers which cause turbulence in the
cylinders allowing faster burning of the air/fuel mix-
ture, resulting in better fuel economy (Fig. 8).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Fig. 7 RESONATOR CLAMP - 4.0L
1 - RESONATOR
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - CLAMP
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 19
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT (Continued)

(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) and disconnect the hoses
at the engine thermostat housing and the water
pump inlet. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the
solution is clean and is being drained only to service
the engine or cooling system, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER
HOUSING - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the push rods.Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same
order as removed.
(7) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts
and secure the compressor to the side.
(9) Remove the power steering pump and bracket
from the intake manifold and water pump. Set the
pump and bracket aside. DO NOT disconnect the
hoses.
(10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release
procedure. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the fuel rail.(12) Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds
from the engine cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the coil rail (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOV-
AL).
(14) Remove spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - REMOV-
AL).
(15) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt
No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved for-
ward (Fig. 9). Pull bolt No.14 out as far as it will go
and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape
around the bolt).
(17) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 9).
(18) If this was the first time the bolts were
removed, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(19) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cyl-
inder bores.
NOTE: If the valves, springs, or seals are to be
inspected/replaced at this time, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST
VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
proper inspection procedures.
Fig. 8 Cylinder Head 4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 9 Engine Cylinder
1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
9 - 20 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)