Round plug JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Repair Manual

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUNK NOISE FROM
DRIVELINE ON
CLOSED THROTTLE
4-3 DOWNSHIFT1. Transmission Fluid Low. 1. Add Fluid.
2. Throttle Cable Mis-adjusted. 2. Adjust cable.
3. Overdrive Clutch Select Spacer
Wrong Spacer.3. Replace overdrive piston thrust plate spacer.
3-4 UPSHIFT
OCCURS
IMMEDIATELY AFTER
2-3 SHIFT1. Overdrive Solenoid Connector or
Wiring Shorted.1.
Test connector and wiring for loose connections,
shorts or ground and repair as needed.
2. TPS Malfunction. 2. Test TPS and replace as necessary. Check with
DRBTscan tool.
3. PCM Malfunction. 3. Test PCM with DRBTscan tool and replace
controller if faulty.
4. Overdrive Solenoid Malfunction. 4. Replace solenoid.
5. Valve Body Malfunction. 5. Remove, disassemble, clean and inspect valve
body components. Make sure all valves and plugs
slide freely in bores. Polish valves with crocus
cloth if needed.
WHINE/NOISE
RELATED TO ENGINE
SPEED1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks.
2. Shift Cable Incorrect Routing. 2. Check shift cable for correct routing. Should not
touch engine or bell housing.
NO 3-4 UPSHIFT 1. O/D Switch In OFF Position. 1. Turn control switch to ON position.
2. Overdrive Circuit Fuse Blown. 2. Replace fuse. Determine why fuse failed and
repair as necessary (i.e., shorts or grounds in
circuit).
3. O/D Switch Wire Shorted/Open
Cut.3. Check wires/connections with 12V test lamp
and voltmeter. Repair damaged or loose
wire/connection as necessary.
4. Distance or Coolant Sensor
Malfunction.4. Check with DRBTscan tool and repair or
replace as necessary.
5. TPS Malfunction. 5. Check with DRBTscan tool and replace if
necessary.
6. Neutral Sense to PCM Wire
Shorted/Cut.6. Test switch/sensor as described in service
section and replace if necessary. Engine no start.
7. PCM Malfunction. 7. Check with DRBTscan tool and replace if
necessary.
8. Overdrive Solenoid Shorted/
Open.8. Replace solenoid if shorted or open and repair
loose or damaged wires (DRBTscan tool).
9. Solenoid Feed Orifice in Valve
Body Blocked.9. Remove, disassemble, and clean valve body
thoroughly. Check feed orifice.
10. Overdrive Clutch Failed. 10. Disassemble overdrive and repair as needed.
11. Hydraulic Pressure Low. 11. Pressure test transmission to determine
cause.
12. Valve Body Valve Stuck. 12. Repair stuck 3-4 shift valve, 3-4 timing valve.
13. O/D Piston Incorrect Spacer. 13. Remove unit, check end play and install
correct spacer.
14. Overdrive Piston Seal Failure. 14. Replace both seals.
15. O/D Check Valve/Orifice Failed. 15. Check for free movement and secure
assembly (in piston retainer). Check ball bleed
orifice.
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 23
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
SLIPS IN OVERDRIVE
FOURTH GEAR1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks.
2. Overdrive Clutch Pack Worn. 2. Remove overdrive unit and rebuild clutch pack.
3. Overdrive Piston Retainer Bleed
Orifice Blown Out.3. Disassemble transmission, remove retainer and
replace orifice.
4. Overdrive Piston or Seal
Malfunction.4. Remove overdrive unit. Replace seals if worn.
Replace piston if damaged. If piston retainer is
damaged, remove and disassemble the
transmission.
5. 3-4 Shift Valve, Timing Valve or
Accumulator Malfunction.5. Remove and overhaul valve body. Replace
accumulator seals. Make sure all valves operate
freely in bores and do not bind or stick. Make sure
valve body screws are correctly tightened and
separator plates are properly positioned.
6. Overdrive Unit Thrust Bearing
Failure.6. Disassemble overdrive unit and replace thrust
bearing (NO. 1 thrust bearing is between
overdrive piston and clutch hub; NO. 2 thrust
bearing is between the planetary gear and the
direct clutch spring plate; NO. 3 thrust bearing is
between overrunning clutch hub and output shaft).
7. O/D Check Valve/Bleed Orifice
Failure.7. Check for function/secure orifice insert in O/D
piston retainer.
DELAYED 3-4
UPSHIFT (SLOW TO
ENGAGE)1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks.
2. Throttle Valve Cable Mis-
adjusted.2. Adjust throttle valve cable.
3. Overdrive Clutch Pack
Worn/Burnt.3. Remove unit and rebuild clutch pack.
4. TPS Faulty. 4. Test with DRBTscan tool and replace as
necessary
5. Overdrive Clutch Bleed Orifice
Plugged.5. Disassemble transmission and replace orifice.
6. Overdrive Solenoid or Wiring
Shorted/Open.6. Test solenoid and check wiring for loose/
corroded connections or shorts/grounds. Replace
solenoid if faulty and repair wiring if necessary.
7. Overdrive Excess Clearance. 7. Remove unit. Measure end play and select
proper spacer.
8. O/D Check Valve Missing or
Stuck.8. Check for presence of check valve. Repair or
replace as required.
TORQUE
CONVERTER LOCKS
UP IN SECOND
AND/OR THIRD
GEARLockup Solenoid, Relay or Wiring
Shorted/Open.Test solenoid, relay and wiring for continuity,
shorts or grounds. Replace solenoid and relay if
faulty. Repair wiring and connectors as necessary.
HARSH 1-2, 2-3, 3-4
OR 3-2 SHIFTSLockup Solenoid Malfunction. Remove valve body and replace solenoid
assembly.
21 - 24 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)

OPERATION
NOTE: Refer to the Hydraulic Schematics for a
visual aid in determining valve location, operation
and design.
CHECK BALLS
CHECK BALL NUMBER DESCRIPTION
1 Allows either the manual valve to put line pressure on the 1-2 governor plug or
the KD Valve to put WOT line pressure on the 1-2 governor plug.
2 Allows either the manual valve to put line pressure on the 2-3 governor plug or
the KD Valve to put WOT line pressure on the 2-3 governor plug.
3 Allows either the Reverse circuit or the 3rd gear circuit to pressurize the front
clutch.
4 Allows either the Manual Low circuit from the Manual Valve or the Reverse
from the Manual Valve circuit to pressurize the rear servo.
5 Directs line pressure to the spring end of the 2-3 shift valve in either Manual
Low or Manual 2nd, forcing the downshift to 2nd gear regardless of governor
pressure.
6 Provides a by-pass around the front servo orifice so that the servo can release
quickly.
7 Provides a by-pass around the rear clutch orifice so that the clutch can release
quickly.
8 Directs reverse line pressure through an orifice to the throttle valve eliminating
the extra leakage and insuring that Reverse line pressure pressure will be
sufficient.
9 Provides a by-pass around the rear servo orifice so that the servo can release
quickly.
ECE (10) Allows the lockup clutch to used at WOT in 3rd gear by putting line pressure
from the 3-4 Timing Valve on the interlock area of the 2-3 shift valve, thereby
preventing a 3rd gear Lock-up to 2nd gear kickdown.
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 139
VALVE BODY (Continued)

VALVE BODY UPPER HOUSING
(1) Note location of check balls in valve body upper
housing (Fig. 305). Then remove the one large diam-
eter and the six smaller diameter check balls.
(2) Remove governor plug and shuttle valve covers
(Fig. 307).
(3) Remove E-clip that secures shuttle valve sec-
ondary spring on valve stem (Fig. 306).
(4) Remove throttle plug, primary spring, shuttle
valve, secondary spring, and spring guides (Fig. 307).
(5) Remove boost valve retainer, spring and valve
if not previously removed.
(6) Remove throttle plug and 1-2 and 2-3 governor
plugs (Fig. 294).
(7) Turn upper housing around and remove limit
valve and shift valve covers (Fig. 308).
(8) Remove limit valve housing. Then remove
retainer, spring, limit valve, and 2-3 throttle plug
from limit valve housing (Fig. 308).(9) Remove 1-2 shift control valve and spring (Fig.
308).
(10) Remove 1-2 shift valve and spring (Fig. 308).
(11) Remove 2-3 shift valve and spring from valve
body (Fig. 308).
(12) Remove pressure plug cover (Fig. 308).
(13) Remove line pressure plug, sleeve, throttle
pressure plug and spring (Fig. 308).
Fig. 305 Check Ball Locations In Upper Housing
1 - SMALL DIAMETER CHECK BALLS (6)
2 - LARGE DIAMETER CHECK BALL (1)
Fig. 306 Shuttle Valve E-Clip And Secondary Spring
Location
1 - E-CLIP
2 - SECONDARY SPRING AND GUIDES
3 - SHUTTLE VALVE
21 - 162 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either
part has sustained physical damage (dented,
deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of
the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the
screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibra-
tion and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the
filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do
not try to remove the filter as this will damage the
valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or
damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing,
lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer
plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean
and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and
transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls
and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
The only serviceable valve body components are
listed below. The remaining valve body components
are serviced only as part of a complete valve body
assembly. Serviceable parts are:
²dual solenoid and harness assembly
²solenoid gasket
²solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder
bolt
²switch valve and spring
Fig. 310 Accumulator Housing Components
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 166 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

(9) Remove the oil pump valve retainers and asso-
ciated valve and spring one at a time (Fig. 93) (Fig.
94). Mark the combination of components as a group
and tag them as to the location from which they were
removed.
CLEANING
Clean pump and support components with solvent
and dry them with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Check condition of the seal rings and thrust
washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings
do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or
severely worn.
Inspect the pump and support components. Replace
the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or
machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or dam-
aged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn
chipped, or damaged.Inspect the pump reaction shaft support bushings.
Replace either bushing only if heavily worn, scored or
damaged. It is not necessary to replace the bushings
unless they are actually damaged.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the oil
pump cover. Use a penlight to view the bore interi-
ors. Replace the oil pump if any bores are distorted
or scored. Inspect all of the valve springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Fig. 93 Oil Pump Valve Body
1 - T/C REGULATOR VALVE
2 - T/C LIMIT VALVE
3 - REGULATOR VALVE
4 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
Fig. 94 T/C Switch Valve
1 - RETAINER
2 - T/C SWITCH VALVE
3 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
21 - 252 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
OIL PUMP (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the valve housings, valves, plugs, springs,
and separator plates with a standard parts cleaning
solution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any
type of caustic solution. (Fig. 131)
Do not immerse any of the electrical components in
cleaning solution. Clean the electrical components by
wiping them off with dry shop towels only.
Dry all except the electrical parts with compressed
air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from
obstructions.Do not use rags or shop towels to
dry or wipe off valve body components. Lint
from these materials can stick to valve body
parts, interfere with valve operation, and clog
filters and fluid passages.
INSPECTION
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.
Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
Inspect the valves and plugs (Fig. 132) for
scratches, burrs, nicks, or scores. Minor surface
scratches on steel valves and plugs can be removed
with crocus cloth butdo not round off the edges
of the valve or plug lands.Maintaining sharpness
of these edges is vitally important. The edges prevent
foreign matter from lodging between the valves and
plugs and the bore.
Fig. 130 Valve Body Components
1 - SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE
2 - MANUAL VALVE
3 - LOW REVERSE SWITCH VALVE
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR
5 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
6 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
7 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
8 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
9 - CHECK BALLS (7)
Fig. 131 Valve Body Components
1 - SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE
2 - MANUAL VALVE
3 - LOW REVERSE SWITCH VALVE
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR
5 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
6 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
7 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
8 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
9 - CHECK BALLS (7)
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 277
VALVE BODY (Continued)

FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT AND DRIVE CHAIN
(1) Remove oil pickup tube from rear case (Fig.
17).
(2) Remove drive gear snap-ring (Fig. 18).
(3) Disengage drive gear (Fig. 18). Pry gear
upward and off mainshaft as shown.
(4) Remove front output shaft, drive chain and
drive gear as assembly (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove output shaft drive gear snap ring.
(6) Remove output shaft drive gear from output
shaft.
SHIFT FORKS AND MAINSHAFT
(1) Remove detent plug, O-ring, detent spring and
detent plunger (Fig. 19).
(2) Remove shift rail from shift fork and transfer
case housing.
(3) Rotate range shift fork until it disengages from
shift sector.
(4) Remove mainshaft and shift fork from input
gear pilot bearing.
NOTE: Loose needle bearings are used to support
the drive sprocket hub on the mainshaft. Do not lift
mainshaft by drive sprocket hub or needle bearings
will become dislodged.
(5) Wrap rag around mainshaft underneath drive
sprocket hub and remove drive sprocket hub from
mainshaft. Be sure to retrieve all the drive sprocket
hub needle bearings.
(6) Remove snap ring holding clutch sleeve onto
mainshaft.
Fig. 17 Oil Pickup Tube Removal
1 - OIL PICKUP TUBE
Fig. 18 Front Output Shaft, Drive Gear And Chain
Removal
1 - REAR HOUSING
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT AND SPROCKET
3 - MAINSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - SNAP-RING
5 - DRIVE CHAIN
Fig. 19 Detent Plug, Spring And Plunger Removal
1 - DETENT PLUG
2 - DETENT SPRING
3 - DETENT PLUNGER
4 - PLUG O-RING
WJTRANSFER CASE - NV247 21 - 321
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Connect lock cylinder switch, if equipped.
(2) Position lock cylinder in door handle.
(3) Position lock cylinder retainer and install
screw (Fig. 13).
(4) Install outside door handle, refer to (Refer to
23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/EXTERIOR HANDLE -
INSTALLATION).
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove trim plug from mirror flag bezel.
(2) Remove screws attaching trim panel to door
(Fig. 14).
(3) Using trim remover (C-4829 or equivalent),
detach trim panel perimeter push-in fasteners from
door inner panel.
(4) Lift trim panel upward and separate from door.
(5) If equipped, disconnect harness connectors for
power accessories.
(6) Disconnect latch rods from inside handle actua-
tor.
(7) Separate trim panel from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect latch rods to inside handle actuator.
(2) If equipped, connect harness connectors to
power accessories.
(3) Position trim panel on door inner panel.
(4) Press trim panel push-in fasteners inward
around perimeter of door.
(5) Install screws attaching trim panel to door
(Fig. 14).
(6) Install trim plug in mirror flag bezel.
WATERDAM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove door trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
(2) Peel the waterdam from door.
(3) Route all harnesses and linkage rods through
waterdam as necessary.
(4) Separate waterdam from door (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Waterdam contact surface must be free of con-
taminants. Clean as necessary.
(2) Route all harnesses and linkage rods through
waterdam as necessary.
(3) Position waterdam on door and align all holes.
(4) Press waterdam on door (Fig. 15).
(5) Install door trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - INSTALLA-
TION).Fig. 14 Front Door Trim Panel
1 - HARNESS CONNECTOR
2 - NUTSERT
3 - TRIM PLUG
4 - TRIM PANEL
5 - PUSH-IN FASTENER
6 - HARNESS CONNECTOR
7 - LATCH RODS
Fig. 15 Front Door Waterdam
1 - INSULATOR PAD
WJDOOR - FRONT 23 - 17
LOCK CYLINDER (Continued)