Group 8W JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 2002, Model line: GRAND CHEROKEE, Model: JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.GPages: 2199, PDF Size: 76.01 MB
Page 1503 of 2199

LINKAGE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
LINKAGE
DESCRIPTION
STEERING LINKAGE ± RIGHT HAND DRIVE
(RHD) VEHICLES......................26
DESCRIPTION........................26
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................28
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING LINKAGE...................28
DAMPER
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................29
DRAG LINK
DESCRIPTION.........................29OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
PITMAN ARM
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................30
TIE ROD END
DESCRIPTION.........................30
OPERATION...........................30
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
LINKAGE
DESCRIPTION
STEERING LINKAGE ± RIGHT HAND DRIVE
(RHD) VEHICLES
Vehicles equipped with right hand drive (RHD)
steering utilize the same components of left hand
drive vehicles. The RHD Steering linkage is designed
as a mirror image of left hand drive linkage with the
exception of the steering damper (Fig. 1), which is
mounted on the same side of the vehicle weather
RHD or LHD. See figure below for reference. All
specifications are the same as LHD. Refer to Group
19, Steering of the gasoline engine service manual for
additional information.
DESCRIPTION
The steering linkage consists of a pitman arm,
drag link, tie rod, and steering dampener (Fig. 2) .
An adjustment sleeve on the tie rod is used to set
wheel toe position. The sleeve on the drag link is
used for steering wheel centering.
CAUTION: If any steering components are replaced
or serviced an alignment must be performed, to
ensure the vehicle meets all alignment specifica-
tions.
CAUTION: Components attached with a nut and cot-
ter pin must be torqued to specification. Then if the
slot in the nut does not line up with the cotter pin
hole, tighten nut until it is aligned. Never loosen the
nut to align the cotter pin hole.
19 - 26 LINKAGEWJ
Page 1518 of 2199

INSTALLATION - 3/8(PRESSURE HOSE
NOTE: Lubrication and a new o-ring must be used
when reinstalling.
(1) Install the hoses to the vehicle.
(2) Reconnect the high pressure hose to the
hydraulic fan motor (Fig. 10) Tighten the hose to
22.5 N´m (17 ft.lbs.).
(3) Reconnect the high pressure hose to the power
steering gear (Fig. 10) Tighten the hose to 22.5 N´m
(17 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the hose to the clipped position on the
fan shroud.
(5) Install the metal skid plate.
(6) Install the air box,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the
system,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - 3/8(RETURN HOSE
(1) Install the hoses to the vehicle.
(2) Reconnect the rubber hose to the steering
cooler outlet tube (Fig. 12) Tighten the hose clamp.
(3) Reconnect the rubber hose to the power steer-
ing reservoir (Fig. 12) Tighten the hose clamp.
(4) Install the air box,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the
system,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - 3/8(GEAR OUTLET HOSE
NOTE: Lubrication and a new o-ring must be used
when reinstalling.
(1) Install the hoses to the vehicle.
(2) Reconnect the rubber hose to the steering
cooler inlet tube (Fig. 11) Tighten the hose clamp.
(3)
Reconnect the metal tube to the power steering
gear (Fig. 11) Tighten the hose to 22.5 N´m (17 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the air box,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the
system,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - INLET COOLER HOSE
(1) Install the cooler hose to the vehicle.
(2) Reconnect the cooler hose at the gear.
(3) Reconnect the lower hose at cooler (Fig. 6).
Tighten the hose to 22.5 N´m (17 ft.lbs.)
(4) Install the bracket holding the cooler hoses
(Fig. 13).(5) Install the air box,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the grille opening reinforcement panel
(7) Install the front fascia grille assembly, (Refer to
13 - FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT
FASCIA - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(9) Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the
system,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - OUTLET COOLER HOSE
(1) Install the cooler hose to the vehicle.
(2) Reconnect the cooler hose at the reservoir.
(3) Reconnect the upper hose at the cooler (Fig. 6).
Tighten the hose to 22.5 N´m (17 ft. lbs.)
(4) Install the bracket holding the cooler hoses
(Fig. 13). Tighten the bracket to 22.5 N´m (17 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install the air box,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the grille opening reinforcement panel
(7) Install the front fascia grille assembly, (Refer to
13 - FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT
FASCIA - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(9) Refill the power steering fluid and bleed the
system,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
PULLEY
DESCRIPTION
POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY - 3.1L
DIESEL
To service the power steering pump pulley on the
3.1L turbo diesel engine. Refer to the power steering
pump removal and installation procedure in this
group. The pulley must be removed to service the
pump assembly. Detailed instructions are provided in
the pump procedure.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with the 4.0L or
4.7L, Do not reuse the old power steering pump
pulley it is not intended for reuse. A new pulley
must be installed if removed.
(1) Remove pump assembly.
(2) Remove pulley from pump with Puller C-4333
or equivalent puller (Fig. 14).
WJPUMP 19 - 41
HOSES - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1535 of 2199

leaks are generally deposited on the housing and not
on the converter.
TORQUE CONVERTER LEAK POINTS
Possible sources of converter leaks are:
(1) Leaks at the weld joint around the outside
diameter weld (Fig. 12).
(2) Leaks at the converter hub weld (Fig. 12).
CONVERTER HOUSING AREA LEAK CORRECTION
(1) Remove converter.
(2) Tighten front band adjusting screw until band
is tight around front clutch retainer. This prevents
front/rear clutches from coming out when oil pump is
removed.
(3) Remove oil pump and remove pump seal.
Inspect pump housing drainback and vent holes for
obstructions. Clear holes with solvent and wire.
(4) Inspect pump bushing and converter hub. If
bushing is scored, replace it. If converter hub is
scored, either polish it with crocus cloth or replace
converter.(5) Install new pump seal, O-ring, and gasket.
Replace oil pump if cracked, porous or damaged in
any way. Be sure to loosen the front band before
installing the oil pump, damage to the oil pump seal
may occur if the band is still tightened to the front
clutch retainer.
(6) Loosen kickdown lever pin access plug three
turns. Apply LoctiteŸ 592, or PermatextNo.2to
plug threads and tighten plug to 17 N´m (150 in. lbs.)
torque.
(7) Adjust front band.
(8) Lubricate pump seal and converter hub with
transmission fluid or petroleum jelly and install con-
verter.
(9) Install transmission and converter housing
dust shield.
(10) Lower vehicle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DIAGNOSIS
CHARTS
The diagnosis charts provide additional reference
when diagnosing a transmission fault. The charts
provide general information on a variety of transmis-
sion, overdrive unit and converter clutch fault condi-
tions.
The hydraulic flow charts in the Schematics and
Diagrams section of this group, outline fluid flow and
hydraulic circuitry. Circuit operation is provided for
PARK, NEUTRAL, FIRST, SECOND, THIRD,
FOURTH, MANUAL FIRST, MANUAL SECOND,
and REVERSE gear ranges. Normal working pres-
sures are also supplied for each of the gear ranges.
Fig. 11 Converter Housing Leak Paths
1 - PUMP SEAL
2 - PUMP VENT
3 - PUMP BOLT
4 - PUMP GASKET
5 - CONVERTER HOUSING
6 - CONVERTER
7 - REAR MAIN SEAL LEAK
Fig. 12 Converter Leak Points - Typical
1 - OUTSIDE DIAMETER WELD
2 - TORQUE CONVERTER HUB WELD
3 - STARTER RING GEAR
4 - LUG
21 - 16 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)
Page 1749 of 2199

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID AND FILTER
REPLACEMENT
For proper service intervals (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHED-
ULES - DESCRIPTION).
REMOVAL
(1) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(2) Place a large diameter shallow drain pan
beneath the transmission pan.
(3) Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to
transmission.
(4)
Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.
(5) Slowly separate front of pan away from trans-
mission allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.
(6) Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts hold-
ing pan to transmission.
(7) While holding pan level, lower pan away from
transmission.
(8) Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
(9)
Remove screw holding filter to valve body (Fig. 60).
(10) Separate filter from valve body and oil pump
and pour fluid in filter into drain pan.
(11) Remove and discard the oil filter seal from the
bottom of the oil pump.
(12) If replacing the cooler return filter, use Oil
Filter Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the
transmission.
(13) Dispose of used trans fluid and filter(s) prop-
erly.
INSPECTION
Inspect bottom of pan and magnet for excessive
amounts of metal. A light coating of clutch material
on the bottom of the pan does not indicate a problemunless accompanied by a slipping condition or shift
lag. If fluid and pan are contaminated with excessive
amounts of debris, refer to the diagnosis section of
this group.
CLEANING
(1) Using a suitable solvent, clean pan and mag-
net.
(2) Using a suitable gasket scraper, clean original
sealing material from surface of transmission case
and the transmission pan.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new primary oil filter seal in the oil
pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with the
butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool.
CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to
the transmission will result.
(2) Place replacement filter in position on valve
body and into the oil pump.
(3) Install screw to hold filter to valve body (Fig.
60). Tighten screw to 4.5 N´m (40 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install new cooler return filter onto the trans-
mission, if necessary. Torque the filter to 14.12 N´m
(125 in.lbs.).
(5) Place bead of MopartRTV sealant onto the
transmission case sealing surface.
(6) Place pan in position on transmission.
(7) Install bolts to hold pan to transmission.
Tighten bolts to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and fill transmission with
MopartATF +4, type 9602 fluid.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TRANSMISSION
FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid
change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
(1) Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in
transmission fill tube.
(2) Add following initial quantity of MopartAT F
+4 to transmission:
(a) If only fluid and filter were changed, add10
pints (5 quarts)of ATF +4 to transmission.
(b) If transmission was completely overhauled,
torque converter was replaced or drained, and
cooler was flushed, add24 pints (12 quarts)of
ATF +4 to transmission.
(3) Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC -
45RFE/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE) and
adjust as required.
Fig. 60 Transmission Filters - 4X4 Shown
1 - PRIMARY OIL FILTER
2 - COOLER RETURN FILTER
3 - COOLER RETURN FILTER BYPASS VALVE
4 - VALVE BODY
21 - 230 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)
Page 1771 of 2199

(9) Remove the oil pump valve retainers and asso-
ciated valve and spring one at a time (Fig. 93) (Fig.
94). Mark the combination of components as a group
and tag them as to the location from which they were
removed.
CLEANING
Clean pump and support components with solvent
and dry them with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Check condition of the seal rings and thrust
washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings
do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or
severely worn.
Inspect the pump and support components. Replace
the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or
machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or dam-
aged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn
chipped, or damaged.Inspect the pump reaction shaft support bushings.
Replace either bushing only if heavily worn, scored or
damaged. It is not necessary to replace the bushings
unless they are actually damaged.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the oil
pump cover. Use a penlight to view the bore interi-
ors. Replace the oil pump if any bores are distorted
or scored. Inspect all of the valve springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Fig. 93 Oil Pump Valve Body
1 - T/C REGULATOR VALVE
2 - T/C LIMIT VALVE
3 - REGULATOR VALVE
4 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
Fig. 94 T/C Switch Valve
1 - RETAINER
2 - T/C SWITCH VALVE
3 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
21 - 252 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
OIL PUMP (Continued)
Page 1874 of 2199

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1
Page 1875 of 2199

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)
Page 1955 of 2199

PAINT TOUCH-UP
DESCRIPTION
When a painted metal surface has been scratched
or chipped, it should be touched-up as soon as possi-
ble to avoid corrosion. For best results, use Mopart
Scratch Filler/Primer, Touch-Up Paints and Clear Top
Coat. Refer to Introduction group of this manual for
Body Code Plate information.
WARNING: USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING
FILTER WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN
A CONFINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
OPERATION
(1) Scrape loose paint and corrosion from inside
scratch or chip.
(2) Clean affected area with MopartTar/Road Oil
Remover, and allow to dry.
(3) Fill the inside of the scratch or chip with a coat
of filler/primer. Do not overlap primer onto good sur-
face finish. The applicator brush should be wet
enough to puddle-fill the defect without running. Do
not stroke brush applicator on body surface. Allow
the filler/primer to dry hard.
(4) Cover the filler/primer with color touch-up
paint. Do not overlap touch-up color onto the original
color coat around the scratch or chip. Butt the new
color to the original color, if possible. Do not stroke
applicator brush on body surface. Allow touch-up
paint to dry hard.
(5) On vehicles without clear coat, the touch-up
color can be lightly finesse sanded (1500 grit) and
polished with rubbing compound.
(6) On vehicles with clear coat, apply clear top coat
to touch-up paint with the same technique as
described in Step 4. Allow clear top coat to dry hard.
If desired, Step 5 can be performed on clear top coat.
WARNING: AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT
WITH PETROLEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEAN-
ING SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH PETRO-
LEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEANING SOL-
VENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
FINESSE SANDING/BUFFING &
POLISHING
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not remove more than .5 mils of
clearcoat finish, if equipped. Base coat paint must
retain clear coat for durability.
Use a Paint Thickness Gauge #PR-ETG-2X or equiv-
alent to determine film thickness before and after
the repair.
Minor acid etching, orange peel, or smudging in
clearcoat or single-stage finishes can be reduced with
light finesse sanding, hand buffing, and polishing.If
the finish has been finesse sanded in the past,
it cannot be repeated. Finesse sanding opera-
tion should be performed by a trained automo-
tive paint technician.
23 - 82 PAINTWJ
Page 1968 of 2199

INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW ALL WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THIS GROUP BEFORE PRECEDING WITH
INSTALLATION.
CAUTION: Open a window before installing wind-
shield. This will avoid pressurizing the passenger
compartment. If a door or liftgate is slammed before
urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old ure-
thane bonding material. Support spacers should be
cleaned and properly installed on weld studs or
repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
(1)
Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening. Position glass in the center of the opening
against the support spacers. Mark the glass at the sup-
port spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape and
ink pen to use as a reference for installation. Remove
replacement windshield from windshield opening (Fig. 6).
(2) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 7).
(3) Clean inside of windshield with Mopar Glass
Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(4) Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-
free cloth.
(5)
Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on
top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bottom
of windshield. Allow at least three minutes drying time.
(6) Position windshield spacers on lower fence
above support spacers at the edge of the windshield
opening (Fig. 4).
(7)
Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around
perimeter of windshield along the inside of the mold-
ings. Apply two beads along the bottom edge.
(8) Install upper molding onto windshield.
(9) Apply fence primer around the perimeter of the
windshield opening fence. Allow at least 18 minutes
drying time.
(10) With aid of a helper, position windshield over
windshield opening. Align reference marks at bottom
of windshield to support spacers.
(11) Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield
opening fence. Guide top molding into proper position
if necessary. Push windshield inward to fence spacers
at bottom and until top molding is flush to roof line.
(12) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
Mopar Super Clean or equivalent.
(13) Install windshield side moldings.
(14) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(15) Install inside rear view mirror.
(16) After urethane has cured, water test wind-
shield to verify repair.
Fig. 6 Center Windshield and Mark at Support Spacers
1 - A-PILLAR
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - MARKS
4 - SUPPORT SPACER
5 - COWLFig. 7 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 - WINDSHIELD AND MOULDINGS
2-
URETHANE BEAD AROUND GLASS 7mm (.3 in.) FROM EDGE
3 - BLOCKS
Fig. 5 Cut Urethane Around WindshieldÐTypical
1 - COLD KNIFE
2 - WINDSHIELD
WJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 95
WINDSHIELD (Continued)
Page 1969 of 2199

SUNROOF
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION.........................96
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF......96
DRAIN TUBE
REMOVAL............................100
INSTALLATION........................100
CONTROL MODULE
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
DRIVE MOTOR
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
WIND DEFLECTOR
REMOVAL............................102INSTALLATION........................102
GLASS PANEL
REMOVAL............................102
INSTALLATION........................103
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENTS - FIT.................103
ADJUSTMENT - TIMING...............103
SUNSHADE
REMOVAL............................103
INSTALLATION........................103
HOUSING ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL............................104
INSTALLATION........................104
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: Keep fingers and other body parts out
of sunroof opening at all times.
The sunroof features a power sliding glass panel
and a sunshade which can be manually positioned
anywhere along its travel, rearward of glass panel
front edge.
The sunroof is electrically operated from a switch
located on the mini overhead console. To operate the
sunroof the ignition switch must be in the On/Run
position. The sunroof has both manual and Express
Open modes of operation when opening. To open the
sunroof in the Express Open mode, the switch is
pressed rearward for less than1 second.This causes
the sunroof glass to automatically retract and stop at
a position slightly forward of full open that reduces
low speed wind buffeting. The sunroof can also be
opened manually by pressing and holding the switch
rearward. Once the switch is held reward for more
than1 second,the glass will retract in the manual
mode. Releasing the switch at any time during travel
will cause the sunroof to stop at the current position.
To close the sunroof from an open position, the
switch must be pushed forward and held until the
sunroof glass comes to a complete stop. Releasing the
switch at any time in this mode will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current position.
To vent the sunroof from the closed position, the
switch is pushed forward and held. Releasing theswitch at any time during travel will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current vent position. To reach the
fully vented position, continue to hold the switch for-
ward until vent motion stops. To close the sunroof
from the vent position, push and hold the switch
rearward until the glass comes to a complete stop.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF
CAUTION: The sunroof motor is only to be powered
through the vehicle battery and vehicle wire har-
ness. Applying power to the sunroof motor leads
will cause failure of the sunroof control unit.
Before beginning sunroof diagnostics verify that all
other power accessories are in proper operating con-
dition. Refer to Sunroof Diagnostic Chart for possible
causes. If not, a common electrical problem may
exist. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams, of this
publication for circuit, splice and component descrip-
tions. Check the condition of the circuit protection
(20 amp high current fuse (battery feed) located in
the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Check the
cover of the PDC for location of the fuse. Check for
correct operation of the sunroof delay relay. Inspect
all wiring connector pins for proper engagement and
continuity. Check for battery voltage at battery and
ignition pins of the power sunroof express module
wiring connector. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Dia-
grams, for circuit information. The controller will not
operate at less than 10 volts. Check the ground at
the sunroof express module.
Before beginning diagnosis for wind noise or water
leaks, verify that the problem was not caused by
23 - 96 SUNROOFWJ