no start JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G User Guide

(13) Check bearing rotating torque with a inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 87). The pinion gear rotat-
ing torque should be:
²
Original Bearings: 1 to 2.25 N´m (10 to 20 in. lbs.).
²New Bearings: 2.8 to 4 N´m (25 to 35 in. lbs.).
(14) Invert the differential case and start two ring
gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt
hole alignment.
(15) Invert the differential case in the vise.
(16) Installnewring gear bolts and alternately
tighten to 129-142 N´m (95-105 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 88).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. The
bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
NOTE: If equipped with Veri-LokTdifferential install
oil feed plenum and side bearing.
(17) Install differential in housing.
CAUTION: When installing a Vari-lokTdifferential
(Fig. 89), the oil feed tube must point to the bottom
of the housing. If differential is installed with the oil
feed tube pointed toward the top, the anti-rotation
tabs will be damaged.
(18)
Verify differential bearing preload, gear mesh
and contact pattern. Refer to Ajustments for procedure.
(19) Install differential cover and fill with gear
lubricant.(20) Install the propeller shaft with the reference
marks aligned.
(21) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
Fig. 87 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION YOKE/COMPANION FLANGE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 88 RING GEAR
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - RING GEAR BOLT
3 - RING GEAR
4 - CASE
Fig. 89 VARI-LOK
1 - ANTI-ROTATION TAB
2 - OIL FEED TUBE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 129
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKESBRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the fluid level
sensor.
(2) From the same side of the master cylinder res-
ervoir release the sensor locking taps with a small
screw driver.
(3) Pull the sensor out of the reservoir from the
connector side of the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the sensor with a new o-ring into the
reservoir until the locking tabs are engaged.
(2) Install the wire connector to the fluid level sen-
sor.
RED BRAKE WARN INDICATOR
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A red warning lamp is used for the service brake
portion of the hydraulic system. The lamp is located
in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The lamp is turned on momentarily when the igni-
tion switch is turn to the on position. This is a self
test to verify the lamp is operational.
The red warning light alerts the driver if the fluid
level is low or the parking brakes are applied. A red
warning lamp with an amber warning lamp may
indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RED BRAKE
WARNING LAMP
The red warning lamp illuminates when the park-
ing brake is applied or when the fluid level in the
master cylinder is low. It will also illuminate at start
up as part of a bulb check.
If the light comes on, first verify that the parking
brakes are fully released. Then check pedal action
and fluid level. If a problem is confirmed, inspect the
brake hydraulic system for leaks.
A red warning lamp with a amber warning lamp
may indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280
Handle C-4171
Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 4).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use Snap-OntFlaring Tool
TFM-428 or equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 5). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 5).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
Fig. 4 Inverted
Fig. 5 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder with
reservoir, caliper seals, HCU and all hydraulic fluid
hoses.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and remove fluid with a
cleansuction gun.
(2) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(3) Insert the tool (Fig. 47) provided with the res-
ervoir to release the reservoir retaining tabs.
(4) Pull the reservoir straight up out of the cylin-
der.
(5) Remove and discard grommets from the cylin-
der body.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake
fluid. Install new grommets into the cylinder body.
CAUTION: Do not use tools to install the grommets.
Tools may cut, or tear the grommets. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.(2) Start reservoir in grommets then press the res-
ervoir straight down to seat the reservoir into the
cylinder grommets.
CAUTION: Do not rock the reservoir during installa-
tion.
(3) Verify retaining tabs are seated.
(4) Install the wire connector to the brake fluid
level sensor.
(5) Fill master cylinder.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder body is made of aluminum
and contains a primary and secondary piston assem-
bly. The cylinder body including the piston assem-
blies are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an
internal problem with the cylinder body, it must be
replaced as an assembly. The master cylinder has a
removable reservoir and fluid level indicator. The res-
ervoir, reservoir grommets, reservoir cap and fluid
level switch are the only replaceable parts on the
master cylinder.
Fig. 47 Release Tool
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - RELEASE TOOL
3 - RETAINING TABS
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
FLUID (Continued)

OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
NOTE: Inspect and repair any external fluid leaks
before performing test.
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2)
Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away the master cylinder or HCU may be faulty
(internal leakage).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and turn off the engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, some component of the booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 48).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm,
check valve or check valve seal/grommet is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2)
Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.(4) Apply 51-67 kPa (15-20 in.) vacuum at large
end of check valve (Fig. 49).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss the check valve and seal
should be replaced.
Fig. 48 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 49 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEWJ
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
17. Viscous fan drive not operating
properly.17. Check fan drive operation and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
18. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 18. Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). For repair, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
19. Heater core leaking. 19. Check heater core for leaks. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/HEATER CORE - REMOVAL).
Repair as necessary.
20. Hydraulic fan speed too low or
inopertive.20. Check for
DTC code.
Check fan operation speeds.
Refer to fan speed operation table.
Low power steering pump output. Refer to
power steering pump diagnosis - 4.7L engine.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES
OR IS ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. Refer to Group 8J, Instrument
cluster.
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle
is brought to a stop after heavy use
(engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of engine
operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a thermostat
to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
WJCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LEVEL
CHANGES IN COOLANT
RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. TEMPERATURE
GAUGE IS IN NORMAL
RANGE1. Level changes are to be expected
as coolant volume fluctuates with
engine temperature. If the level in
the tank was between the FULL and
ADD marks at normal operating
temperature, the level should return
to within that range after operation
at elevated temperatures.1. A normal condition. No repair is necessary.
FAN RUNS ALL THE
TIME1. Fan control sensors inoperative. 1. Check for DTC's. Verify sensor readings.
2. Fan control solenoid stuck9on9. 2. Check fan operation speeds. Refer to fan
speed operation table.
3. Fan control solenoid harness
damaged.3. Check for DTC 1499. Repair as required.
4. Transmission temperature too
high.4. Check for transmission over temp. DTC.
5. Engine coolant temperature too
high.5. (a) Check coolant level. Correct level as
required.
(b) Thermostat stuck. Replace thermostat.
(c) Water pump failed. Replace water pump.
(d) Coolant flow restricted. Clean radiator.
(e) Air flow over radiator obstructed.Remove
obstruction.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 10 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 7) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. (Fig. 8)Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
Fig. 7 Drain PlugÐ4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 12 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

(3) Install drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Check belt indexing marks (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Install tensioner assembly to mounting
bracket, align the two dowels on the tensioner with
the mounting bracket and hand start the bolt.
Tighten bolt to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: To prevent damage to coil case, coil
mounting bolts must be torqued.
(2) Install drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).(3) Check belt indexing marks (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
DRIVE BELTS - 4.0L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING ± SERPENTINE
DRIVE BELT
When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small
cracks that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib
to rib (Fig. 3), are considered normal. These are not a
reason to replace belt. However, cracks running along
a rib (not across) arenotnormal. Any belt with
cracks running along a rib must be replaced (Fig. 3).
Also replace belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords
or severe glazing.
Refer to SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CHART for further belt diagnosis.
Fig. 2 Automatic Belt Tensioner
1 - IDLER PULLEY TIGHTEN TO 47 N´m (35 FT. LBS.)
2 - AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
3 - GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
Fig. 3 Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt Wear
Patterns
1 - NORMAL CRACKS BELT OK
2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS REPLACE BELT
WJACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 17
BELT TENSIONERS (Continued)