Interior light JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

8W-44 INTERIOR LIGHTING
Component Page
Ash Receiver Lamp.................. 8W-44-10
Automatic Zone Control Module........ 8W-44-10
Body Control Module..... 8W-44-2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10
Cargo Lamp........................ 8W-44-4
Driver Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch...... 8W-44-7
Driver Door Module................ 8W-44-7, 9
Driver Front Door Courtesy Lamp....... 8W-44-9
Driver Heated Seat Switch............ 8W-44-10
Fuse 7............................. 8W-44-8
Fuse 8....................... 8W-44-2, 3, 4, 8
G106.............................. 8W-44-8
G200............................. 8W-44-10
G300............................ 8W-44-6, 7
G301.......................... 8W-44-5, 6, 7
Glove Box Lamp..................... 8W-44-8
Junction Block............. 8W-44-2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8
Left Courtesy Lamp.................. 8W-44-8
Left Door Handle Courtesy Lamp........ 8W-44-3
Left Liftgate Ajar Switch.............. 8W-44-5Component Page
Left Multi-Function Switch............ 8W-44-10
Left Rear Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch . . . 8W-44-6
Left Visor/Vanity Lamp................ 8W-44-2
Liftgate Flip-Up Ajar Switch............ 8W-44-5
Manual Temperature Control.......... 8W-44-10
Overhead Map/Courtesy Lamp.......... 8W-44-3
Passenger Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch . . . 8W-44-7
Passenger Door Module.............. 8W-44-7, 9
Passenger Front Door Courtesy Lamp.... 8W-44-9
Passenger Heated Seat Switch......... 8W-44-10
Radio............................. 8W-44-10
Right Courtesy Lamp................. 8W-44-8
Right Door Handle Courtesy Lamp....... 8W-44-3
Right Liftgate Ajar Switch............. 8W-44-5
Right Rear Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch . . 8W-44-6
Right Visor/Vanity Lamp............... 8W-44-2
Shifter Assembly.................... 8W-44-10
Underhood Lamp.................... 8W-44-8
WJ8W-44 INTERIOR LIGHTING 8W - 44 - 1

OPERATION
To apply the clutch, pressure is applied between
the clutch retainer and piston. The fluid pressure is
provided by the oil pump, transferred through the
control valves and passageways, and enters the
clutch through the hub of the reaction shaft support.
With pressure applied between the clutch retainer
and piston, the piston moves away from the clutch
retainer and compresses the clutch pack. This action
applies the clutch pack, allowing torque to flow
through the input shaft into the driving discs, and
into the clutch plates and pressure plate that are
lugged to the clutch retainer. The waved snap-ring is
used to cushion the application of the clutch pack.
When pressure is released from the piston, the
spring returns the piston to its fully released position
and disengages the clutch. The release spring also
helps to cushion the application of the clutch assem-
bly. When the clutch is in the process of being
released by the release spring, fluid flows through a
vent and one-way ball-check-valve located in the
clutch retainer. The check-valve is needed to elimi-
nate the possibility of plate drag caused by centrifu-
gal force acting on the residual fluid trapped in the
clutch piston retainer.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove waved snap-ring and remove pressure
plate, clutch plates and clutch discs (Fig. 92).
(2) Compress clutch piston spring with Compressor
Tool C-3575-A (Fig. 93). Be sure legs of tool are
seated squarely on spring retainer before compress-
ing spring.
(3) Remove retainer snap-ring and remove com-
pressor tool.
(4) Remove spring retainer and clutch spring. Note
position of retainer on spring for assembly reference.
(5) Remove clutch piston from clutch retainer.
Remove piston by rotating it up and out of retainer.
(6) Remove seals from clutch retainer piston bore
and clutch retainer hub. Discard both seals as they
are not reusable.
INSPECTION
Inspect the front clutch components. Replace the
clutch discs if warped, worn, scored, burned or
charred, or if the facing is flaking off. Replace the
steel plates if heavily scored, warped, or broken. Be
sure the driving lugs on the plates are in good con-
dition. The lugs must not be bent, cracked or dam-
aged in any way.
Replace the clutch spring and spring retainer if
either is distorted, warped or broken.Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
steel plates should slide freely in the slots. Replace
the retainer if the grooves are worn or damaged.
Check action of the check ball in the retainer (Fig.
94). The ball must move freely and not stick.
NOTE: Inspect the clutch retainer bushings care-
fully (Fig. 95). The retainer bushings are NOT ser-
viceable. It will be necessary to replace the retainer
if either bushing is scored, or worn.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The 42RE transmission uses four plates and
discs for the front clutch.
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seals in the clutch retainer lower
groove and on outer diameter of the retainer hub. Be
sure lip of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(3) Lubricate lips of the retainer seals with liberal
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub, bore and piston with light coat of trans-
mission fluid.
(4) Install clutch piston in retainer (Fig. 96). Use
twisting motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip.
(5) Position spring in clutch piston (Fig. 97).
(6) Position spring retainer on top of piston spring.
Make sure retainer is properly installed (Fig. 92).
(7) Compress piston spring and retainer with Com-
pressor Tool C-3575-A (Fig. 93). Then install new
snap-ring to secure spring retainer and spring.
(8) Install clutch plates and discs (Fig. 92). Install
steel plate then disc until all plates and discs are
installed. The front clutch uses 4 clutch discs and
plates in a 42RE transmission.
(9) Install pressure plate and waved snap-ring
(Fig. 92).
Clearance should be 1.70 to 3.40 mm (0.067 to
0.134 in.). If clearance is incorrect, clutch discs,
plates, pressure plates and snap-ring may have to be
changed.
21 - 74 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
FRONT CLUTCH (Continued)

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 227) and (Fig.
228).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 229). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 226).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 230). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 230). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 225).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
225).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
(15) Using a suitable gauge bar and dial indicator,
measure clutch pack clearance (Fig. 231).
(a) Position gauge bar across the clutch drum
with the dial indicator pointer on the pressure
plate (Fig. 231).
(b) Using two small screw drivers, lift the pres-
sure plate and release it.
Fig. 226 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 120 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either
part has sustained physical damage (dented,
deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of
the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the
screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibra-
tion and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the
filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do
not try to remove the filter as this will damage the
valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or
damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing,
lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer
plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean
and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and
transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls
and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
The only serviceable valve body components are
listed below. The remaining valve body components
are serviced only as part of a complete valve body
assembly. Serviceable parts are:
²dual solenoid and harness assembly
²solenoid gasket
²solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder
bolt
²switch valve and spring
Fig. 310 Accumulator Housing Components
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 166 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
Inspect all the accumulator bores in the valve body.
Use a penlight to view the bore interiors. Replace the
valve body if any bores are distorted or scored.Inspect all of the accumulator springs. The springs
must be free of distortion, warpage or broken coils.
Inspect all the fluid seals on the valve body (Fig.
133). Replace any seals that are cracked, distorted, or
damaged in any way. These seals pass fluid pressure
directly to the clutches. Any pressure leak at these
points, may cause transmission performance prob-
lems.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate valves, springs, and the housing
valve bores with clean transmission fluid.
(2) Install solenoid switch valve, manual valve,
and the low/reverse switch valve into the valve body.
(3) Install the retainers to hold each valve into the
valve body.
(4) Install the valve body check balls into their
proper locations.
(5) Position the transfer plate onto the valve body.
(6) Install the screws to hold the transfer plate to
the valve body. Tighten the screws to 5.6 N´m (50 in.
lbs.).
(7) Install the accumulator pistons and springs
into the valve body in the location from which they
were removed. Note that all accumulators except the
overdrive have two springs. The overdrive accumula-
tor piston has only one spring.
Fig. 132 Valve Body Components
1 - SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE
2 - MANUAL VALVE
3 - LOW REVERSE SWITCH VALVE
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR
5 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
6 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
7 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
8 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
9 - CHECK BALLS (7)
Fig. 133 Valve Body Seals
1 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
2 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
3 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
5 - LOW/REVERSE PASSAGE SEAL
6 - 2ND CLUTCH PASSAGE SEAL
7 - 4TH CLUTCH PASSAGE SEAL
8 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR (1 SPRING)
21 - 278 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 92).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.
(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion flange.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
93).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 94). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and tighten nut to
122-176 (90-130 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 92 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 93 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
Fig. 94 Front Output Seal Installation
1 - INSTALLER 6952-A
2 - TRANSFER CASE
21 - 310 TRANSFER CASE - NV242WJ

(6) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool.Garter spring on
seal goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 36). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool bottoms
against case.
(7) Remove the output shaft rear bearing with the
screw and jaws from Remover L-4454 and Cup 8148
(Fig. 37).(8) Install new bearing with Tool Handle C-4171
and Installer 5066 (Fig. 38).The bearing bore is
chamfered at the top. Install the bearing so it is
flush with the lower edge of this chamfer (Fig.
39).
Fig. 37 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Removal
1 - REAR CASE
2 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4454-1 AND L-4454-3
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8148
Fig. 36 Front Output Seal Installation
1 - INSTALLER 6952-A
2 - TRANSFER CASE
Fig. 38 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Installation
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT INNER BEARING
3 - INSTALLER 5066
Fig. 39 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Installation Depth
1 - BEARING (SEATED) AT LOWER EDGE OF CHAMFER
2 - CHAMFER
WJTRANSFER CASE - NV247 21 - 327
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 72).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion shaft.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
73).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 74). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and torque nut to
122-176 N´m (90-130 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Installer, Bearign - 8128
Installer, Seal - 7884
Fig. 72 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 73 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
21 - 338 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)