transmission JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512, thoroughly
clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
(1) Align crankshaft damper slot with key in
crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
(2) Assemble Special Tool 8512±A as follows, The
nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hard-
ened bearing surface of the bearingMUSTface the
nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the
threaded rod (Fig. 63). Once assembled coat the
threaded rod's threads with MopartNickel Anti-
Seize or (Loctite No. 771).
(3) Using Special Tool 8512A, press damper onto
crankshaft (Fig. 64).
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
175 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the bolts retaining structural cover
(Fig. 65).
(3) Remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all bolts retaining the cover-to-engine.
DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT
tighten at this time.
Fig. 63 Proper Assembly Method for Special Tool
8512±A
1 - BEARING
2 - NUT
3 - THREADED ROD
4 - BEARING HARDENED SURFACE (FACING NUT)
5 - HARDENED WASHER
Fig. 64 Crankshaft Damper Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512A
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 55
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 66) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 66) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud before raising engine. Failure to do so may
cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
(2) Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM for procedure.
(3) Remove the engine oil filter.
(4) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(5) Remove the four (4) cylinder block-to-insulator
mount bolts and the nut from the engine insulator
mount through bolt.
(6) Using the jack, raise the engine high enough to
remove the engine insulator mount through bolt and
the insulator mount (Fig. 67) and (Fig. 68).
Fig. 65 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 66 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 67 Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Left
1 -MOUNT
2 - NUT
3 - WIRE RETAINER
4 - FASTENER
5 - BOLT
6 - THRU BOLT
9 - 56 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the insulator mount and install the
insulator mount through bolt.
(2) Lower the engine until the cylinder block-to-in-
sulator mount bolts can be installed.
(3) Remove the jack and block of wood.
(4) Torque the cylinder block-to-insulator mount
bolts to 61 N´m ( 45 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install and torque the through bolt retaining
nut to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
NOTE: A resilient rubber cushion supports the
transmission at the rear between the transmission
extension housing and the rear support crossmem-
ber or skid plate.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle and support the transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts holding the support cushion
to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
²Remove the support cushion nuts and remove
the cushion.
²Remove the transmission support bracket bolts
and remove the bracket from the transmission.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
²Remove the support cushion bolts and remove
the cushion and the support bracket from the trans-
mission (4WD) or from the adaptor bracket (2WD).
²On 2WD vehicles, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support adaptor bracket to the trans-
mission. Remove the adaptor bracket.
INSTALLATION
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
(1) Install the transmission support bracket to the
transmission. Install the bolts and tighten to 46 N´m
(34 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the support cushion to the support
bracket. Install the nuts and tighten to 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the crossmember onto the support
cushion studs. Install the stud nuts and tighten to 22
N´m (192 in. lbs) torque.
(4) Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission support.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
(1) On 2WD vehicles, position the transmission
support adaptor bracket to the transmission. Install
the bolts and tighten to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the transmission support bracket and
support cushion to the adaptor bracket (2WD) or the
transmission (4WD). Install the bolts and tighten to
75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the crossmember onto the support
cushion studs. Install the stud nuts and tighten to 22
N´m (192 in. lbs) torque.
(4) Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission support.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pres-
sure feed type.
Fig. 68 Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Right
1 - MOUNT
2 - THRU BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - NUT
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 57
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
9s - 4 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Remove coolant bottle.
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(14) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(15) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(27) Raise vehicle.
(28) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(29) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(30) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(31) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
(32) Remove the starter.
(33) Remove the ground straps from the engine
(34) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold.
(35) Remove the structural cover, if equipped.
(36) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(37) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(38) Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove
engine mount thru bolts, for engine removal.
(39) Lower the vehicle.
(40) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(41) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine.
CAUTION: The 2.4L engine with manual transmis-
sions, can be removed without removing the man-
ual transmission. Use caution when attempting this
procedure as the clearance is tight.
(42) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
CAUTION: Use caution when installing 2.4L engine
into vehicle equipped with manual transmission, as
clearance is tight.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
into the frame mounts.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
9s - 12 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

shown in (Fig. 34). Refer to for Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). Correct
piston to bore clearance must be established in order
to assure quiet and economical operation.
NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be mea-
sured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended toolC-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 36).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.
CAUTION: Ensure all abrasives are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore
can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean.
Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
Fig. 34 Checking Cylinder Bore -Typical
Fig. 35 Piston Measurement - Typical
Fig. 36 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
KJENGINE9s-31
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

(3) Install crankshaft sprocket using Special Tool
6792 (Fig. 54).(4) Install timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
(5) Install crankshaft vibration damper (Fig. 55).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION)
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove flex plate.
(3) Insert a 3/16 flat bladed screwdriver between
the dust lip and the metal case of the crankshaft
seal. Angle the screwdriver (Fig. 56)through the dust
lip against metal case of the seal. Pry out seal.
CAUTION: Do not permit the screwdriver blade to
contact crankshaft seal surface. Contact of the
screwdriver blade against crankshaft edge (cham-
fer) is permitted.
Fig. 53 Crankshaft Front Oil Seal - Installation
1 - PROTECTOR
2 - SEAL
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 6780
Fig. 54 Crankshaft Sprocket - Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6792
2 - TIGHTEN NUT TO INSTALL
Fig. 55 Crankshaft Vibration Damper - Installation -
Typical
1 - M12±1.75 ý 150 MM BOLT, WASHER AND THRUST BEARING
FROM SPECIAL TOOL 6792
9s - 38 ENGINEKJ
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

(4) Install flex plate. Apply MopartLock & Seal
Adhesive to bolt threads and tighten bolts to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the transmission.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of a cast aluminum alloy.
The pistons have pressed-in pins attached to forged
powdered metal connecting rods. The pistons pin is
offset 1 mm (0.0394 in.) towards the thrust side of
the piston. The connecting rods are a cracked cap
design and are not repairable. Hex head cap screws
are used to provide alignment and durability in the
assembly. The pistons and connecting rods are ser-
viced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The piston and connecting rod is the link between
the combustion force to the crankshaft.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Cylinder Head must be removed before Pis-
tons and Rods. Refer to Cylinder Head Removal in
this section.
(1) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons
covered during this operation. Mark piston with
matching cylinder number (Fig. 60).
(2) Remove oil pan. Scribe the cylinder number on
the side of the rod and cap (Fig. 61) for identification.
(3) Pistons have a directional stamping in the
front half of the piston facing towards thefrontof
engine.
(4) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. Rotate crankshaft so that
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
(5) Remove Balance Shaft Assembly. Refer to Bal-
ance Shaft Removal in this section.
(6) Remove connecting rod cap bolts. Push each
piston and rod assembly out of cylinder bore.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
(8) Piston and Rods are serviced as an assembly.
Fig. 59 Rear Crankshaft SealÐInstallation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6926±2 INSTALLER
Fig. 60 Piston Markings
1 - DIRECTIONAL ARROW WILL BE IMPRINTED IN THIS AREA
9s - 40 ENGINEKJ
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

STRUCTURAL COLLAR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove structural collar attaching bolts.
(3) Remove collar.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Torque procedure for the structural collar
must be followed or damage could occur to oil pan
and collar.
(1) Perform the following steps for installing struc-
tural collar.
²Step 1: Position collar between transmission and
oil pan. Install collar to transmission bolts,hand
start only.
²Step 2: Install collar to oil pan bolts,hand snug
only.
²Step 3: Tighten collar to transmission bolts.
²Step 4: Tighten collar to oil pan bolts.
(2) Lower vehicle.
ENGINE MOUNTING
DESCRIPTION
The engine mounting system consist of three
mounts; right and a left side support the powertrain,
and rear mount to control powertrain torque. The
mounts are of molded rubber material.
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the front engine mount through bolt
from the insulator.
(3) Remove the engine front mount bolts and
remove the insulator assembly.
(4) Remove the front mounting bracket from
engine, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the insulator mount assembly (Fig.
72)and (Fig. 73).
(2) Tighten the mount to engine bolts.
(3) Loosely install the front engine mount through
bolt to the insulator.
(4) Lower the engine.
(5) Tighten the through bolt.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 72 LH ENGINE MOUNT
1 - ENGINE MOUNT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT BOLT (3)
3 - ENGINE MOUNT THROUGH BOLT
Fig. 73 RH ENGINE MOUNT
1 - ENGINE MOUNT BOLT (4)
2 - ENGINE MOUNT THROUGH BOLT
3 - ENGINE MOUNT
9s - 44 ENGINEKJ