tires JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

REMOVAL - LEFT SIDE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the left side tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the upper ball joint nut.
(4) Separate the upper ball joint from the steering
knuckle using tool C-4150A.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - REMOVAL).
(7) Unclip the power center and move it to the side
out of the way.
(8) Remove the battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - REMOVAL).
(9) Disconnect the battery temperature sensor
from the battery tray.
(10) Remove the upper control arm rear bolt by
using a ratchet and extension under the steering
shaft and positioned by the power steering reservoir.
(Fig. 10)
(11) Remove the upper control arm front bolt.
(12) Remove the upper control arm from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - RIGHT SIDE
(1) Install the upper control arm to the vehicle.
(2) Install the upper control arm front bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.).
(3) Install the upper control arm rear bolt. Tighten
the bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the cruise control servo mounting nuts.(5) Install the air box (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the upper ball joint nut. Tighten the nut
to 81 N´m (60 ft.lbs.).
(7) Install the right side tire and wheel assembly.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Set the toe and center the steering wheel
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - LEFT SIDE
(1) Install the upper control arm to the vehicle.
(2) Install the upper control arm front bolt (Fig.
11). Tighten the bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.).
(3) Install the upper control arm rear bolt (Fig.
11). Tighten the bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.).
(4) Reconnect the battery temperature sensor to
the battery tray.
(5) Install the battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reclip and mount the power center.
(8) Install the upper ball joint nut (Fig. 11).
Tighten the nut to 81 N´m (60 ft.lbs.).
(9) Install the left side tire and wheel assembly.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Set the toe and center the steering wheel
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 10 REAR BOLT
1 - STEERING SHAFT
2 - REAR BOLT
3 - RATCHET WITH AN EXTENSION
Fig. 11 UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJFRONT 2 - 15
UPPER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SUSPENSION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.2. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Weak or broken spring. 1. Replace spring.
2. Alignment. 2. Align vehicle to specifications.
3.Tires. 3. Replace tires.
4. Brakes. 4. Repair as necassary.
KNOCKING, RATTLING
OR SQUEAKING1. Worn shock bushings. 1. Replace shock.
2. Loose shock mounting. 2. Tighten to specifications.
3. Shock valve. 3. Replace shock.
4. Loose upper ball joint. 4. Replace ball joint.
5. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.5. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
IMPROPER TRACKING 1. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.1. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
2. Bent axle. 2.Replace axle.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 108 80 Ð
Shock Absorber Lower Nut 115 85 Ð
Suspension Arm Upper Ball Joint Nut 95 70 Ð
Suspension Arm Upper Frame Bolts 100 74 Ð
Rear Upper Ball Joint Bracket Bolts 136 100 Ð
Suspension Arms Lower Body/Axle Bracket Nut 163 120 Ð
Suspension Arms Lower Frame Bracket Nut 163 120 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Bolts 99 73 Ð
KJREAR 2 - 17
REAR (Continued)

LOWER BALL JOINT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(2) Remove the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the tie rod from the steering
knuckle (Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE
ROD END - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the steering knuckle (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Move the halfshaft to the side and support the
halfshaft out of the way (If Equipped).
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.
(6) Secure the steering knuckle in a vise.
(7) Press the ball joint from the steering knuckle
using special tools C-4212±F (PRESS), 8859-2
(RECEIVER) and 8859-1 (DRIVER) (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.(1) Install the ball joint into the steering knuckle
and press in using special tools C-4212±F (press),
8859-3 (driver) and 6761 (receiver) (Fig. 8).
(2) Install the ball joint boot.
(3) Remove the support for the halfshaft and
install into position (If Equipped).
(4) Install the steering knuckle (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE ROD END -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install and tighten the halfshaft nut to 136
N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Check the vehicle ride height (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(10) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 7 LOWER BALL JOINT
1 - 8859-1 DRIVER
2 - C-4212F PRESS
3 - 8859-2 RECEIVER
Fig. 8 LOWER BALL JOINT
1 - 6761 RECEIVER
2 - 8859-3 DRIVER
3 - C-4212F PRESS
KJSUSPENSION 2s - 5

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT......................1
HALF SHAFT...........................10
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA....................19REAR AXLE - 198RBI.....................49
REAR AXLE-81/4.......................86
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPELLER
SHAFT...............................1
STANDARD PROCEDURES - PROPELLER
SHAFT ANGLE........................3
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPELLER SHAFT....................6
SPECIAL TOOLS........................6
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
REMOVAL.............................6INSTALLATION..........................6
PROPELLER SHAFT - REAR
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................8
ASSEMBLY.............................9
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPELLER
SHAFT
VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round, or wheels that are
unbalanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Brake rotors that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration.Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective joints or an
incorrect propeller shaft angle, are usually the cause
of such a vibration.
KJDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1. Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1. Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2. Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2. Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3. Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3. Install new yoke.
4. Incorrect driveline angularity. 4. Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5. Worn joint. 5. Install new joint.
6. Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.6. Installl new propeller shaft.
7. Broken rear spring. 7. Install new rear spring.
8. Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.8. Re-index propeller shaft, test, and
evaluate.
9. Excessive drive pinion gear shaft
runout.9. Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
10. Excessive axle yoke deflection. 10. Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
11. Excessive transfer case runout. 11. Inspect and repair as necessary.
Joint Noise 1. Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1. Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2. Lack of lubrication. 2. Replace joints as necessary.
BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.If the pro-
peller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, are properly installed, and are cor-
rectly aligned with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.
(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 CLAMP AT POSITION 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTKJ
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - PROPELLER
SHAFT ANGLE
The procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMPS AT SAME POSITION
Fig. 3 CLAMPS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
KJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT....10
REMOVAL.............................10
INSTALLATION.........................11
SPECIFICATIONS
HALF SHAFT.........................11SPECIAL TOOLS.......................12
CV JOINT/BOOT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................13
CV JOINT/BOOT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................17
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
Check for grease at the inboard and outboard C/V
joint. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or a vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of a damaged or worn
C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the
inner/outer joint which has allowed the grease to be
lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of a worn/damaged
inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper
wheel alignment may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(4) Remove stabilizer link (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 STABILIZER BAR LINK
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
3 - 10 HALF SHAFTKJ

When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
2). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
Fig. 2 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA (Continued)

rear propeller shaft is connected to the pinion gear
which rotates the differential through the gear mesh
with the ring gear bolted to the differential case. The
engine power is transmitted to the axle shafts
through the pinion mate and side gears. The side
gears are splined to the axle shafts.
STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL
During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 2).
When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
3). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
TRAC-LOKŸ DIFFERENTIAL
The Trac-lokŸ clutches are engaged by two concur-
rent forces. The first being the preload force exerted
through Belleville spring washers within the clutch
packs. The second is the separating forces generated
by the side gears as torque is applied through the
ring gear (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 DIFFERENTIAL-STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 3 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
Fig. 4 TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
1 - CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DRIVE PINION
4 - PINION GEAR
5 - MATE SHAFT
6 - CLUTCH PACK
7 - SIDE GEAR
8 - CLUTCH PACK
3 - 50 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lift/jack under the axle and secure
axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft and suspend under the
vehicle.
(6) Remove brake drums, parking brake cables and
speed sensor from the axle.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the body junction
block.
(8) Remove brakes and backing plates.
(9) Remove vent hose from the axle shaft tube.
(10) Remove the stabilizer bar (Fig. 5).
(11) Remove upper control arm ball joint pinch
bolt from bracket (Fig. 6).
(12) Remove shock absorbers from axle brackets
(Fig. 7).
(13) Loosen all lower control arms mounting bolts
(Fig. 8).
(14) Lower axle enough to remove coil springs and
spring insulators.
(15) Remove lower control arm bolts from the axle
brackets.
(16) Lower and remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before the lower control arms
are tightened. This must be done to maintain vehi-
cle ride height and prevent premature bushing fail-
ure.(1) Raise the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Install lower control arms onto the axle brack-
ets and loosely install the mounting bolts.
(3) Install coil spring isolators and spring.
(4) Raise axle up until springs are seated.
(5) Install upper control arm ball joint into axle
bracket and tighten pinch bolt to torque specification.
(6) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to
torque specification.
(7) Install stabilizer bar and tighten nuts to torque
specification.
(8) Install brake backing plates, parking brake
cables, brake drums and speed sensor.
(9) Install brake hose to the body junction block
and bleed the brakes.
Fig. 5 STABILIZER BAR MOUNTS
1 - STABILIZER BAR MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 6 BALL JOINT PINCH BOLT
1 - UPPER BALL JOINT
2 - PINCH BOLT
Fig. 7 SHOCK ABSORBER
1 - UPPER MOUNTING BOLT
2 - LOWER MOUNTING BOLT
3 - 54 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)