Plugs JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual
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Page 1223 of 1803

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Leaking valve guide seals. 5. Replace valve guide seals.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(5) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(8) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner.
(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
9 - 8 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1225 of 1803

²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove mechanical cooling fan.
(7) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(9) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(10) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(11) Drain cooling system.
(12) Remove coolant bottle.
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(14) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(15) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(16) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(17) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(18) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(19) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(20) Remove coil over plugs.
(21) Release fuel rail pressure.
(22) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick con-
nect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
(23) Remove the PCV hose.
(24) Remove the breather hoses.
(25) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(26) Disconnect knock sensors.
(27) Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
(28) Remove intake manifold.
(29) Install engine lift plate.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1226 of 1803

NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate
before removing engine.
(30) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(31) Raise vehicle.
(32) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(33) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(34) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(35) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front prop-
shaft for access to the starter and left side exhaust
flange.
(36) Remove the starter.
(37) Remove the ground straps from the left and
right side of the block.
(38) Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at
the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove
from the vehicle.
NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot
be reused. New clamps must be used or leaks may
occur.
NOTE: For manual transmission vehicles, the trans-
mission must be removed from the vehicle, before
the engine can be removed. The manual transmis-
sion will contact the floorpan before the engine
clears the motor mounts, so it must be removed.
(39) Remove the structural cover.
(40) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(41) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(42) Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove
engine mount thru bolts, for engine removal.
(43) Lower the vehicle.
(44) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(45) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine
lift plate.
(46) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
onto engine.
(3) Raise the vehicle.(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
(8) Install the starter.
(9) Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install the engine block heater power cable, if
equipped.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(11) Install the structural cover.
NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust man-
ifold flanges. Failure to use new clamps may result
in exhaust leaks.
(12) Install the left and right exhaust pipes.
(13) Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Remove the engine lift plate.
(16) Connect the knock sensors.
(17) Connect the engine to body ground straps at
the left side of the cowl.
(18) Install the intake manifold.
(19) Install the engine oil dipstick tube.
(20) Install the power brake booster vacuum hose.
(21) Install the breather hoses.
(22) Install the PCV hose.
(23) Install the fuel rail.
(24) Install the coil over plugs.
(25) Connect the engine wiring harness at the fol-
lowing points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(26) Connect lower radiator hose.
(27) Connect upper radiator hose.
(28) Connect throttle and speed control cables.
(29) Install the heater hose assembly.
(30) Install coolant recovery bottle.
(31) Install the power steering pump.
(32) Install the generator.
(33) Install the A/C compressor.
(34) Install the drive belt.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1237 of 1803

(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylin-
der head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components (Fig. 8). (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be
examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down the bolts should be replaced. The M8 head
bolts, should not be reused. Use new M8 bolts.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge
against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale, the bolt should be replaced (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper
because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use
only a wooden or plastic scraper.
(1) Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block
mating surfaces (Fig. 10).(2) Position the new cylinder head gasket on the
locating dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting
bolts require sealant to be added to them before
installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
Fig. 7 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
Fig. 8 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 9 Checking Cylinder Head Bolts for Stretching
(Necking)
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)
Page 1255 of 1803

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 33).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING - FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 34) (Fig. 35). Check the
bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving,
fatigue and pitting (Fig. 36). Replace any bearing
that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Fig. 33 Bore GaugeÐTypical
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
Fig. 34 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 - UPPER BEARING HALF
2 - MATING EDGES
3 - GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING
JOURNAL DURING INSTALLATION
4 - WEAR PATTERN Ð ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER
BEARING
5 - LOWER BEARING HALF
9 - 40 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1275 of 1803

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and
main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 70)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb IdleÐ25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpmÐ170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
9 - 60 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
LUBRICATION (Continued)
Page 1276 of 1803

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
Fig. 70 Oil Pressure Sending Unit -Typical
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 61
LUBRICATION (Continued)
Page 1293 of 1803

Fig. 102 Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 103 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
Fig. 104 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
9 - 78 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)
Page 1298 of 1803

ENGINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
ENGINE - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION..........................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
TEST................................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST.........3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
LEAK INSPECTION.....................4
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE.......5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE............5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
MECHANICAL.........................7
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE
AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS...............9
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS..........9
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE......................9
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-
PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS.........10
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION........11
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING
PLASTIGAGE.........................11
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY...........12
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY........12
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - 2.4L ENGINE.........13
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE............16
SPECIAL TOOLS
2.4L ENGINE.........................17
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL - 2.4L........................19
INSTALLATION - 2.4L....................19
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET............................19
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD.............20
CLEANING............................20
INSPECTION..........................21
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD..........21CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL(S)
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................22
CAMSHAFT(S)
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................23
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CAMSHAFT
END-PLAY...........................23
REMOVAL.............................24
CLEANING............................24
INSPECTION..........................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
REMOVAL.............................26
CLEANING............................26
INSPECTION..........................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS
DESCRIPTION.........................27
CLEANING............................27
VALVE SPRINGS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD ON.........27
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD OFF........27
INSPECTION..........................28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD ON.....28
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD OFF....28
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LASH ADJUSTER
(TAPPET) NOISE DIAGNOSIS............28
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
ROCKER ARMS
REMOVAL.............................29
INSPECTION..........................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION.........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON TO
CYLINDER BORE FITTING..............30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER
BORE HONING.......................31
CLEANING............................31
INSPECTION..........................32
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD - FITTING...........32
KJENGINE 9s - 1
Page 1300 of 1803

ENGINE - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4 Liter (148 cu. in.) in-line four cylinder
engine is a double over head camshaft with hydraulic
lifters and four valve per cylinder design. The engine
is free-wheeling; meaning it has provisions for piston-
to-valve clearance. However valve-to-valve interference
can occur, if camshafts are rotated independently.
The cylinders are numbered from front of the
engine to the rear. The firing order is 1±3±4±2.
The engine identification number is located on the
rear of the cylinder block (Fig. 1).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.
(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gage adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer with cable adaptors to the DRBIIIt.
Fig. 1 ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
1 - ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
KJENGINE9s-3