Plugs JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Service Manual
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Page 1329 of 1803
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Tool C119 or equivalent (Fig.
37) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 37). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD - FITTING
(1) For measuring connecting rod bearing clear-
ance procedure and use of Plastigage(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE). For bearing
clearance refer to Engine Specifications. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)
NOTE: The rod bearing bolts should not be reused.
(2) Before installing theNEWbolts the threads
should be oiled with clean engine oil.
(3) Install each bolt finger tight then alternately
torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
(4) Tighten the bolts to 27 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (20
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn)Do not use a torque
wrench for last step.
(5) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance (Fig. 38). Refer to clearance specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is made of nodular cast iron and
includes five main bearing journals and four connect-
ing rod journals (Fig. 39). The number three journal
is the location for the thrust bearing. The mains and
connecting rod journals have undercut fillet radiuses
that are rolled for added strength. To optimize bear-
ing loading, eight counterweights are used.
Fig. 37 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
Fig. 38 Connecting Rod Side Clearance
9s - 32 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1363 of 1803
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen the nuts from the clamp that hold the
catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe flange connec-
tion.
11 - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)
Page 1369 of 1803
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen and remove the nuts from the clamp
that hold the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe
flange connection.
11s - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)
Page 1467 of 1803
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 2 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)
Page 1468 of 1803
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessivewear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
KJBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)
Page 1621 of 1803
INTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
4WD FLOOR SHIFT BOOT
REMOVAL............................156
INSTALLATION........................156
A-PILLAR TRIM AND GRAB HANDLE
REMOVAL............................156
INSTALLATION........................156
COWL TRIM COVER
REMOVAL............................157
INSTALLATION........................157
DOOR SILL SCUFF PLATE
REMOVAL............................157
INSTALLATION........................157
ASSIST HANDLE
REMOVAL............................157
INSTALLATION........................157
B-PILLAR LOWER TRIM
REMOVAL............................157
INSTALLATION........................157
B-PILLAR UPPER TRIM
REMOVAL............................157
INSTALLATION........................158
CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS
REMOVAL............................158
INSTALLATION........................158
SHIFT BEZEL
REMOVAL............................158
INSTALLATION........................158FLOOR CONSOLE
REMOVAL............................158
INSTALLATION........................158
FLOOR CONSOLE LID LATCH
REMOVAL............................158
INSTALLATION........................158
HEADLINER
REMOVAL............................159
INSTALLATION........................159
QUARTER TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL............................159
INSTALLATION........................159
REAR DOOR SCUFF PLATE
REMOVAL............................160
INSTALLATION........................160
SUN VISOR
REMOVAL............................160
INSTALLATION........................160
SUN VISOR SUPPORT
REMOVAL............................160
INSTALLATION........................160
REAR VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL............................161
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION......................161
INSTALLATION - REARVIEW MIRROR
SUPPORT BRACKET..................161
4WD FLOOR SHIFT BOOT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the shift lever and remove the boot
from the lever. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/TRANSFER CASE/SHIFT LEVER -
REMOVAL)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the shift boot onto the shift lever and
install the lever. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/TRANSFER CASE/SHIFT LEVER -
INSTALLATION)
A-PILLAR TRIM AND GRAB
HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Using a small pry tool or equivalent, remove
the grab handle trim plugs.
(2) Remove the two grab handle screws.
(3) Remove the grab handle and a-pillar trim from
the a-pillar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Snap a-pillar trim and grab handle into the
a-pillar.
(2) Install the two screws and install the grab han-
dle trim plugs.
23 - 156 INTERIORKJ
Page 1685 of 1803
HVAC HOUSING
REMOVAL
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL
AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.(2) Remove the instrument panel from the vehi-
cle(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL -
REMOVAL).
(3) If the vehicle is not equipped with air condi-
tioning, go to Step 6. If the vehicle is equipped with
air conditioning, recover the refrigerant from the
refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - REFRIGERANT RECOVERY)
(4) Disconnect the liquid line refrigerant line fit-
ting from the evaporator inlet tube (Fig. 5). (Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C LINE COU-
PLERS)
(5) Disconnect the accumulator inlet tube refriger-
ant line fitting from the evaporator outlet tube.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C LINE
COUPLERS) Install plugs in, or tape over all of the
opened refrigerant line fittings.
(6) Drain the engine cooling system(Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 5 HVAC CASE ASSEMBLY
1 - BLOWER MOTOR AND CAGE
2 - RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR LINKAGE
3 - RECIRCULATION DOOR VACUUM ACTUATOR
4 - CASE RETAINER SCREW
5 - BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR MOUNTING SCREWS
6 - ELECTRIC BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
7 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR FOR BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
8 - HEATER CORE RETAINER TABS (4) AND SCREWS (2)9 - HEATER CORE
10 - HVAC CASE RETAINER CLIP
11 - HEATER CORE INPUT AND OUTPUT CONNECTIONS
12 - EVAPORATOR CONNECTION FLANGE
13 - HVAC CASE RETAINER SCREWS
14 - HVAC HOUSING
KJDISTRIBUTION 24 - 33
Page 1686 of 1803
(7) Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater
core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened
heater core tubes.
(8) Unplug the HVAC system vacuum supply line
connector from the engine side harness.
(9) Remove the nuts from the HVAC housing
mounting studs.
(10) Remove the HVAC housing from inside the
vehicle taking care not to allow any remaining cool-
ant to drain on the vehicles interior.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle
and place it on the workbench. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - REMOVAL)
(2) Unplug the vacuum harness connectors from
the mode and recirculation door actuators and the
recirculation door actuator.
(3) Disengage the vacuum harness from any rout-
ing clips located on the lower half of the HVAC hous-
ing.
(4) Remove the blower motor and blower wheel
unit from the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
BLOWER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(5) Pop out the grommet onl the vacuum supply
line and slide hole in housing.
(6) Carefully remove the foam seals from the
heater core and evaporator coil tube mounting flange
of the HVAC housing. If the either seal is deformed
or damaged it must be replaced.
(7) Use a screwdriver to pry off the four snap clips
that help secure the upper and lower HVAC housing
halves together.
(8) Remove the screws that secure the upper and
lower HVAC housing halves together.
(9) Carefully separate the upper HVAC housing
from the lower half.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Assemble the upper HVAC housing half to the
lower half. During assembly, be certain of the follow-
ing.
(a) That each of the mode door pivot shaft ends
and the two temperature blend door shafts are
properly engaged in there pivot holes.
(b) That the blower motor venturi ring is prop-
erly indexed and installed.
(c) If the unit is equipped with air conditioning,
that the evaporator coil tube rubber seal is prop-
erly positioned in the grooves in both the upper
and lower HVAC housing halves.
(2) Install the screws and four snap clips that
secure the upper and lower HVAC housing halves toeach other. Tighten the screws to 2.2 N´m (20 in.
lbs.).
(3) Install the blower motor and wheel unit in the
HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CON-
DITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/BLOWER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the foam seals on the flanges around
the heater core and evaporator coil tube mounting
flange of the HVAC housing.
(5) Insert the vacuum supply line and connector
through the foam seal on the heater core and evapo-
rator coil tube mounting flange of the HVAC housing.
Check that the vacuum grommet is securely seated
into the housing hole flange.
(6) Engage the vacuum harness to the routing
clips and plug in the vacuum harness connector at
the floor door actuator and, if the unit is so equipped,
at the recirculation air door actuator.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AIR
CONDITIONING, REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND
CAUTIONS IN PLUMBING BEFORE PERFORMING
THE FOLLOWING OPERATION. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - WARNING)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - CAUTION) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION -
REFRIGERANT HOSES/LINES/TUBES PRECAU-
TIONS)
(1) Position the HVAC housing to the dash panel.
Be certain that the evaporator condensate drain tube
and the housing mounting studs are inserted into
their correct mounting holes.
(2) Install and tighten the nuts onto the HVAC
housing mounting studs. Tighten the nuts to 6.2 N´m
(55 in.lbs.).
(3) Connect the HVAC system vacuum supply line
connector.
(4) Unplug or remove the tape from the heater
core tubes. Connect the heater hoses to the heater
core tubes and fill the engine cooling system(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(5) If the vehicle is not equipped with air condi-
tioning, go to Step 10.
(6) Unplug or remove the tape from the liquid line
and the evaporator inlet tube fittings. Connect the
liquid line coupler to the evaporator inlet tube. (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C LINE COU-
PLERS)
(7) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
24 - 34 DISTRIBUTIONKJ
HVAC HOUSING (Continued)
Page 1695 of 1803
(3) To duplicate a high-ambient temperature condi-
tion (high head pressure), restrict the air flow
through the condenser. Install a manifold gauge set
to be certain that the discharge pressure does not
exceed 2760 kPa (400 psi).
(4) Check the refrigerant system plumbing for
incorrect routing, rubbing or interference, which can
cause unusual noises. Also check the refrigerant lines
for kinks or sharp bends that will restrict refrigerant
flow, which can cause noises. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAU-
TION)
(5) If the noise is from opening and closing of the
high pressure relief valve, evacuate and recharge the
refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIG-
ERANT SYSTEM CHARGE) If the high pressure
relief valve still does not seat properly, replace the
compressor.
(6) If the noise is from liquid slugging on the suc-
tion line, replace the accumulator. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/AC-
CUMULATOR - REMOVAL) Check the refrigerant oil
level and the refrigerant system charge. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
REFRIGERANT OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - SPECIFICATIONS - CHARGE
CAPACITY) If the liquid slugging condition continues
following accumulator replacement, replace the com-
pressor. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
REMOVAL)
(7) If the noise continues, replace the compressor
and repeat Step 1.
REMOVAL
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
The compressor may be removed and repositioned
without disconnecting the refrigerant lines or dis-
charging the refrigerant system. Discharging is not
necessary if servicing the compressor clutch or clutch
coil, the engine, the cylinder head, or the generator.
(1) Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant
system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE -
REFRIGERANT RECOVERY)(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
(5) Remove the suction and discharge refrigerant
line manifold from the compressor. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
SUCTION LINE - REMOVAL) (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
DISCHARGE LINE - REMOVAL) Install plugs in, or
tape over all of the opened refrigerant fittings.
(6) Remove the bolts that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket (Fig. 2) or (Fig. 3) or (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket.
Fig. 2 A/C COMPRESSOR - 2.4L ENGINE
1 - COMPRESSOR BOLT
2 - COMPRESSOR BOLT
3 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH AND PULLY
4 - IDLER PULLEY
5 - ENGINE BLOCK
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
KJPLUMBING 24 - 43
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)
Page 1696 of 1803
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION) (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
CAUTION - REFRIGERANT HOSES/LINES/TUBES
PRECAUTIONS)
The compressor may be removed and repositioned
without disconnecting the refrigerant lines or dis-
charging the refrigerant system. Discharging is not
necessary if servicing the compressor clutch or clutch
coil, the engine, the cylinder head, or the generator.
NOTE: If a replacement compressor is being
installed, be certain to check the refrigerant oil
level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL) Use only
refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the
compressor in the vehicle. (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL -
DESCRIPTION)(1) Install the compressor to the mounting bracket.
Tighten the three mounting bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft.
lbs.), (2.4L gasoline and 2.5L diesel engines only).
(2) On the 3.7L gasoline engine install and tighten
the bolts in the following sequence (Fig. 5):
²The number one bolt (rear) is hand tightened
first then tightened to 55 N´m (41 ft. lbs.)
²The number three bolt is then hand tightened
and torqued to 40 N´m ( 30 ft. lbs.)
²The number two bolt is also hand tightened and
torqued to 55 N´m ( 41 ft. lbs.)
(3) Remove the tape or plugs from all of the
opened refrigerant line fittings. Install the suction
and discharge line manifold to the compressor.
Tighten the fastener to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).(Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
SUCTION LINE - INSTALLATION) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
DISCHARGE LINE - INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the serpentine drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
Fig. 3 A/C COMPRESSOR - 3.7L ENGINE
1 - COMPRESSOR BOLT #1
2 - COMPRESSOR BOLT #2
3 - COMPRESSOR BOLT #3
4 - A/C COMPRESSOR
5 - A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH AND PULLEY
6 - COMPRESSOR MOUNT
Fig. 4 A/C COMPRESSOR - 2.5L DIESEL ENGINE
1 - SUCTION LINE MOUNTING NUT
2- SUCTION LINE MOUNTING CLIP
3- SUCTION LINE
4- MOUNTING SCREW FOR SUCTION LINE
5- SUCTION LINE MOUNTING FLANG
6- MOUNTING SCREW FOR DISCHARGE LINE
7- DISCHARGE LINE MOUNTING FLANG
8- A/C PRESSURE SENSOR
9- A/C DISCHARGE LINE
10- A/C COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY
11- A/C DISCHARGE LINE SERVICE PORT
24 - 44 PLUMBINGKJ
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)