wheel bolt torque JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual

CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Mark position of pressure plate on flywheel
with paint or a scriber for assembly reference, if
clutch is not being replaced.
(3) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly and in rota-
tion to relieve spring tension and avoid warping the
plate.
(4) Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate
and disc.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit
emery cloth, then clean with a wax and grease
remover.
(2) Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease or equivalent.
(3) Check runout and operation ofnewclutch disc.
NOTE: Disc must slide freely on transmission input
shaft splines.
(4) With the disc on the input shaft, check face
runout with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub
6 mm (1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing. Obtain
another clutch disc if runout exceed 0.5 mm (0.020
in.).
(5) Position clutch disc on flywheel with side
marked flywheel against the flywheel.
NOTE: If not marked, the flat side of disc hub goes
towards the flywheel on the 3.7L engine and
towards the transmission on 2.4L engine.
(6) Insert clutch alignment tool through the clutch
disc and into the pilot bearing (Fig. 1).
(7) Position clutch pressure plate over disc and on
the flywheel (Fig. 1).
(8) Install pressure plate bolts finger tight.
CAUTION: Use only the factory bolts to mount the
pressure plate. The bolts must be the correct size.
If bolts are too short, there isn't enough thread
engagement, if too long bolts interfere with the Dual
Mass Flywheel.
(9) Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly and in rota-
tion a few threads at a time.
CAUTION: The bolts must be tightened evenly and
to specified torque to avoid distorting the pressure
plate.(10) Tighten pressure plate bolts to 31 N´m (23 ft.
lbs.) on 2.4L engines and 50 N´m (37ft. lbs.) on 3.7L
engines.
(11) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to clutch disc hub and
splines of transmission input shaft.
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
will result in grease contamination of disc.
(12) Install transmission.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Disconnect release bearing from release lever
and remove the bearing (Fig. 2).
(3) Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(4) Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure
pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer
spring if bent or damaged.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease or equivalent. Apply
grease to end of long shank, small diameter flat
blade screwdriver. Then insert tool through clutch
disc hub to reach bearing.
Fig. 1 ALIGNING CLUTCH DISC
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH DISC ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 6 CLUTCHKJ

On a Dual Mass Flywheel the additional secondary
mass coupled to the transmission lowers the natural
frequency of the transmission rotating elements. This
decreases the transmission gear rattle. The damper
springs between the two flywheel masses replace the
clutch disc damper springs and assist in a smooth
transfer of torque to the transmission.
CAUTION: The Dual Mass Flywheel is serviced as
an assembly only and should never be taken apart.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing with an internal (blind
hole) puller.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease or equivalent.
(2) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig. 5).
(3) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(4) Install clutch disc and pressure plate.
(5) Install the transmission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 6).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips, if
applicable.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight to avoid spilling fluid during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts
(Fig. 7).
(8) Disengage captured bushing on clutch master
cylinder actuator from pivot pin on pedal arm.
Fig. 5 Pilot Bearing Installer
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHKJ
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(2) Reinstall the battery thermal guard onto the
battery case. Refer to Thermal Guard for the proper
battery thermal guard installation procedures.
(3) Position the battery and the battery thermal
guard onto the battery tray as a unit. Ensure that
the battery positive and negative terminal posts are
correctly positioned. The battery cable terminal
clamps must reach the correct battery terminal post
without stretching the cables (Fig. 17).
(4) Reinstall the battery holddowns onto the bat-
tery. Refer to Battery Holddown for the proper instal-
lation procedure.
CAUTION: Be certain that the battery cable terminal
clamps are connected to the correct battery termi-
nal posts. Reversed battery polarity may damage
electrical components of the vehicle.
(5) Clean the battery cable terminal clamps and
the battery terminal posts. Refer to Battery System
Cleaning for cleaning procedure.
(6) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 45 in. lbs.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 45 in. lbs.
(8) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery holddown hardware includes a plastic
holddown bracket and retaining bolt. The battery
holddown bracket meshes with the battery tray to
secure the battery to the battery tray.
When installing a battery into the battery tray, it
is important that the holddown hardware is properly
installed and that the fastener is tightened to the
proper specifications. Improper holddown fastener
tightness, whether too loose or too tight, can result in
damage to the battery, the vehicle, or both. Refer to
Battery Holddown for the proper installation proce-
dure, including the proper holddown fastener torque
specifications.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-
tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post.
(4) Remove the battery hold down bracket retain-
ing bolt from the threaded insert in the battery tray
assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery hold down hard-
ware. Refer to Battery Cleaning for the proper bat-
tery system component cleaning procedures, and
Battery Inspection for the proper battery system
component inspection procedures.
(2) Position the battery hold down bracket onto the
battery tray.
Fig. 17 Battery Cables - Typical
1 - RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
2 - WHEELHOUSE INNER PANEL
3 - NEGATIVE CABLE
4 - POSITIVE CABLE
5 - BATTERY
KJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 17
BATTERY (Continued)

INSTALLATION
2.4L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 2.4L
4±cylinder engine is bolted to the right-front side of
the cylinder head.Sensor position (depth) is
adjustable.
(1) Remove plastic, upper timing belt cover (timing
gear cover) (Fig. 11) by removing 3 bolts. Before
attempting to remove cover, remove electrical connec-
tor from Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
(Fig. 11). This will prevent damage to sensor.
(2) Rotate (bump over) engine until camshaft tim-
ing gear and target wheel (tonewheel) are positioned
and aligned to face of sensor as shown in (Fig. 12).If
not positioned as shown in (Fig. 12), damage to
both sensor and target wheel will occur when
attempting to start engine. Face of sensor
MUST be behind target wheel while adjusting.
(3) Position sensor to cylinder head and install 2
sensor mounting bolts finger tight.
(4)SENSOR AIR GAP: .030ºSet air gap between
rear of target wheel and face of sensor to .030º. This
can best be accomplished using an L-shaped, wire-
type spark plug gapping gauge (Fig. 13). A piece of
.030º brass shim stock may also be used.
(5) Gently push sensor forward until it contacts
gapping gauge.Do not push hard on sensor.
Tighten 2 sensor mounting bolts. Refer to torque
specifications.CAUTION: After tightening sensor mounting bolts,
recheck air gap and adjust as necessary. Retorque
bolts.
(6) Install upper timing belt cover and 3 bolts.
(7) Connect electrical connector to ECT sensor.
(8) Connect electrical connector to CMP sensor.
Fig. 11 UPPER TIMING BELT COVER/BOLTS-2.4L
1 - UPPER TIMING BELT COVER
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR (ECT)
3 - MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
Fig. 12 CMP FACE AT TARGET WHEEL-2.4L
1 - CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR
2 - TARGETWHEEL (TONEWHEEL)
3 - FACE OF CMP SENSOR
4 - CUTOUT (NOTCH)
Fig. 13 CMP ADJUSTMENT - 2.4L
1 - FACE OF SENSOR
2 - WIRE GAPPING TOOL
8I - 8 IGNITION CONTROLKJ
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (Continued)

VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold. Refer to proce-
dure.
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to proce-
dure.
(8) Remove the fan shroud. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM.
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft
one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper. Refer to pro-
cedure.
(14) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to pro-
cedure.
(15) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Hold-
ing Fixture.NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(16) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
(17) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in this
section.
(18) Remove the cylinder head access plug.
(19) Remove the right side secondary chain guide.
Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in this section.
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(20) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel
can result in a vehicle no start condition.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with twelve bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder
head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components (Fig. 22). (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 31
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If measure-
ments exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cyl-
inder head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be
examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down the bolts should be replaced.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge
against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale, the bolt should be replaced.
CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper
because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use
only a wooden or plastic scraper.
(1) Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block
mating surfaces.
(2) Position the new cylinder head gasket on the
locating dowels.CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts
require sealant to be added to them before install-
ing. Failure to do so may cause leaks. Do not reuse
the old M8 bolts, use new M8 bolts.
(4) Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with
clean engine oil and install the eight M10 bolts.
(5) Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with
Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesivethen install the
bolts.
The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an
angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a
torque-to-yield design.
(6) Tighten the bolts in sequence using the follow-
ing steps and torque values:
²Step 1: Tighten bolts 1±10, 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
²Step 2: Tighten bolts 1±10, 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
Tighten bolts 11±14, 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
²Step 3: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees. Tighten
bolts 11±14, 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(7) Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft
drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on
either side of the V6 mark on the gear then using
Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, position the
gear onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Fail-
ure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt result-
ing in bolt failure.
(8) Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(9) Install the right side secondary chain guide.
(10) Install the cylinder head access plug.
(11) Re-set and install the right side secondary
chain tensioner.
(12) Remove Special Tool 8429.
(13) Install the timing chain cover.
(14) Install the crankshaft damper.Tighten damper
bolt 175 N´m (130 Ft. Lbs.).
(15) Install accessory drive belt.
(16) Install the fan shroud.
(17) Install the cylinder head cover.
(18) Install the intake manifold.
Fig. 22 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
9 - 32 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

(19) Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
(20) Refill the cooling system.
(21) Raise the vehicle.
(22) Install the exhaust pipe onto the right
exhaust manifold.
(23) Lower the vehicle.
(24) Reconnect battery negitive cable.
(25) Start the engine and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT(S)
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel
lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four
bearing journals are machined into the camshaft.
Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls
that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters
the hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubri-
cates every intake lobe rocker through a drilled pas-
sage in the intake lobe.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8379
will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over exten-
sion, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set
the tensioner ratchet.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to CYL-
INDER HEAD COVER in this section.
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could
cause a vehicle no start condition.
(4) Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against
sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
(5) Position Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge
between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the ten-
sioner arm and guide.
(6) Remove the camshaft position sensor.
(7) Hold the camshaft with Special Tool 8428 Cam-
shaft Wrench, while removing the camshaft sprocket
bolt and sprocket.
(8) Starting at the outside working inward, loosen
the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at
a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps.
CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAM-
SHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL
OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS.
NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker
arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms
before removing camshaft.
(9) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the
camshaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine
oil.
NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the
camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock
position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral
position easing the installation of the camshaft
bearing caps.
(2) Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
(3) Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten
the retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the
stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical
order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the
engine. All caps should be installed so that the
stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front
of the engine.
(4) Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the
bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle
cap working outward (Fig. 23).
(5) Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 33
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. Refer to Engine Assembly
in this section for procedure.
(2) Remove the engine oil pump. Refer to Oil
Pump in this section for procedure.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the two stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are shown below.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 41) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinderblock main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.
(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washer for scor-
ing, scratches or blueing. If either condition exist
replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. Refer to
Crankshaft Main Bearings in this section for proper
bearing selections.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
(2) Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 22 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 42).
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface must be coated with MoparTEngine RTV
sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will
cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopart
Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate
mating surface as shown.
(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 43
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain, two secondary
timing chain drives and a counterbalance shaft drive.
OPERATION
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
chain type. The primary chain drives the large 40
tooth idler sprocket directly from a 20 tooth crank-shaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by
a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed
guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic
wear faces for low friction and long wear. The pri-
mary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the
secondary chain drive and designed oil pump leak-
age. The idler sprocket assembly connects the pri-
mary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and the
counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly
consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 40 tooth
sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the
assembly. The spline joint for the 40 tooth sprocket is
a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral
ring is installed on the outboard side of the fifty
tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengagement. The
idler sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler
shaft. The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cyl-
inder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorprates a controled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing
Chain Cover in this section for procedure.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 71
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKET(S
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING SYS-
TEM for procedures.
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers.
Refer to CYLINDER HEAD COVER.
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM for procedure.
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft
damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(Fig. 103) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke) and the cam-
shaft sprocket ªV6º marks are at the 12 o'clock posi-
tion (Fig. 102).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(6) Remove power steering pump. Refer to STEER-
ING for procedure.
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 104).
(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain
cover. Refer to procedures.
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position and crankshaft
position sensors (Fig. 105) and (Fig. 106).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77