cable JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

(11) Bleed fuel system. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold.
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor. Refer to
FUEL SYSTEM.
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence.
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail.
(9) Install ignition coil towers.
(10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system.
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds (Fig. 87) are log style with
a patented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high sili-
con molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite
exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing
to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are cov-
ered by a three layer laminated heat shield for ther-
mal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields
(Fig. 88) are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shield (Fig. 89).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
Fig. 87 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
1 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 69
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 90).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
Fig. 88 EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELDS
1 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
3 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
Fig. 89 EXHAUST MANIFOLD RIGHT
1 - Heat Shield
2 - Nuts
3 - Manifold Flange
Fig. 90 EXHAUST MANIFOLD LEFT
1 - Heat Shield
2 - Nuts
3 - Manifold Flange
9 - 70 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

BALANCE SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains. Refer to TIMING CHAIN and SPROCKET.
NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as
an assembly. Do not attempt to remove the gear
from the balance shaft.Remove the retaining bolt
from the counterbalance shaft thrust plate (Fig. 96).
(2) Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft
remover/installer tool, remove the counterbalance
shaft from the engine (Fig. 97).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as
an assembly. Do not attempt to remove the gear
from the balance shaft.
(1) Coat counterbalance shaft bearing journals
with clean engine oil.
NOTE: The balance shaft is heavy, and care should
be used when installing shaft, so bearings are not
damaged.(2) Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft
remover/installer tool, carefully install counterbal-
ance shaft into engine.
(3) Install Counterbalance shaft thrust plate
retaining bolt finger tight.Do not tighten bolt at this
time.
(4) Position the right side of the thrust plate with
the right chain guide bolt, install bolt finger tight.
(5) Torque the thrust plate retaining bolt to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(6) Remove the chain guide bolt so that guide can
be installed.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud
assembly.
(4) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(6) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
Fig. 95 Camshaft Sprocket V6 Marks
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
9 - 74 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean tim-
ing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing alco-
hol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no
wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers,
or damage to surfaces could result.
(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface
using rubbing alcohol.
CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the timing cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service repairs,
MoparTEngine RTV must be used as a substitute.
(2) Inspect the water passage o-rings for any dam-
age, and replace as necessary.
(3) Apply MopartEngine RTV sealer to front cover
(Fig. 100).
(4) Install cover. Tighten fasteners in sequence as
shown in (Fig. 101) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT
TENSIONERS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Install both heater hoses.(11) Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan
drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN
DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 99 Timing Chain Cover Fasteners - Typical
Fig. 100 TIMING COVER SEALANT
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - WATER PASSAGE ORING
3 - MOPARTENGINE RTV SEALER
Fig. 101 Timing Chain Cover Fasteners - Typical
9 - 76 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKET(S
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING SYS-
TEM for procedures.
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers.
Refer to CYLINDER HEAD COVER.
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM for procedure.
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft
damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(Fig. 103) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke) and the cam-
shaft sprocket ªV6º marks are at the 12 o'clock posi-
tion (Fig. 102).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(6) Remove power steering pump. Refer to STEER-
ING for procedure.
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 104).
(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain
cover. Refer to procedures.
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position and crankshaft
position sensors (Fig. 105) and (Fig. 106).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77

CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage
camshaft target wheel. Do not hold target wheel
while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket.
Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic
source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized tar-
get wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or
crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging
intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure
negative battery cable is disconnected to guard
against accidental starter engagement.
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral posi-
tion.
(15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
right camshaft sprocket.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank
sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the pri-
mary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and
chain guides.
(19) Remove chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner tensioner arm and chain should
be replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required.
Fig. 105 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - CAMSAHFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - SCREW
Fig. 106 Crankshaft Position Sensor
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 79
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

(20) After installing all chains, it is recommended
that the idler gear end play be checked (Fig. 112).
The end play must be within 0.10±0.25 mm (0.004±
0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear
must be replaced.
(21) Install timing chain cover and crankshaft
damper. Refer to procedures.
(22) Install cylinder head covers. Refer to proce-
dures.
NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylin-
der head, the plug must be coated with sealant to
prevent leaks.(23) Coat the large threaded access plug with
MopartThread Sealant with Teflon, then install
into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N´m
(60 ft. lbs.).
(24) Install the oil fill housing.
(25) Install access plug in left cylinder head.
(26) Install power steering pump.
(27) Fill cooling system.
(28) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 111 Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKETFig. 112 Measuring Idler Gear End Play
1 - IDLER SPROCKET ASSEMBLY
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
9 - 82 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

ENGINE - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4 Liter (148 cu. in.) in-line four cylinder
engine is a double over head camshaft with hydraulic
lifters and four valve per cylinder design. The engine
is free-wheeling; meaning it has provisions for piston-
to-valve clearance. However valve-to-valve interference
can occur, if camshafts are rotated independently.
The cylinders are numbered from front of the
engine to the rear. The firing order is 1±3±4±2.
The engine identification number is located on the
rear of the cylinder block (Fig. 1).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.
(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gage adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer with cable adaptors to the DRBIIIt.
Fig. 1 ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
1 - ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
KJENGINE9s-3

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Remove coolant bottle.
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(14) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(15) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(27) Raise vehicle.
(28) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(29) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(30) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(31) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
(32) Remove the starter.
(33) Remove the ground straps from the engine
(34) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold.
(35) Remove the structural cover, if equipped.
(36) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(37) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(38) Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove
engine mount thru bolts, for engine removal.
(39) Lower the vehicle.
(40) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(41) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine.
CAUTION: The 2.4L engine with manual transmis-
sions, can be removed without removing the man-
ual transmission. Use caution when attempting this
procedure as the clearance is tight.
(42) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
CAUTION: Use caution when installing 2.4L engine
into vehicle equipped with manual transmission, as
clearance is tight.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
into the frame mounts.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
9s - 12 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)