eco JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Service Manual

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 8).(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
(4) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(5) Install the brake line to the brake hose inside
the engine compartment by the front control arm
bolt.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(5) Install the brake hose mounting bolt at the top
of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the body
(Fig. 6).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear brakes use a leading shoe (primary) and
trailing shoe (secondary) design (Right rear brake is
shown) (Fig. 9).
Fig. 6 BRAKE HOSE AT THE BODY
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINE
4 - COIL SPRING
Fig. 7 BRAKE HOSE AT THE AXLE
1 - REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - VENT HOSE
4 - BRAKE LINES
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 8 BRAKE HOSE MOUNTED
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - FRONT OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

OPERATION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
When the brake pedal is depressed hydraulic pres-
sure pushes the rear brake wheel cylinder pistons
outward. The wheel cylinder push rods then push the
brake shoes outward against the brake drum. When
the brake pedal is released return springs attached
to the brake shoes pull the shoes back to there orig-
inal position (Fig. 9).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE PADS
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from the master
cylinder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.(4) Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by
prying the caliper over.
(5) Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the mount.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(7) Remove the inboard and outboard pads.
REMOVAL - DRUM BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise the vehicle and remove the rear wheels.
(2) Remove and discard the spring nuts securing
drums to wheel studs.
(3) Remove the brake drums. If drums prove diffi-
cult to remove, retract brake shoes. Remove the
access hole plug at the rear of backing plate and
back off adjuster screw with brake tool and screw-
driver.
(4) Clean the individual brake components, includ-
ing the support plate and wheel cylinder exterior,
with a find mist of water. Then wipe the brake com-
ponents clean with a dampened cloth.
(5) Remove the primary and secondary return
springs from anchor pin with the brake spring pliers.
(6) Remove the U-clip and washer securing
adjuster cable to the parking brake lever.
(7) Remove the hold-down springs, retainers and
pins with standard retaining spring tool.
(8) Remove the parking brake strut and cable
guide.
(9) Remove the adjuster lever, adjuster screw and
spring.
(10) Remove the adjuster cable.
(11) Remove the brake shoes.
(12) Disconnect the cable from the parking brake
lever and remove the lever ( if needed).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE PADS
(1) Install the inboard and outboard pads.
(2) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
INSTALLATION - DRUM BRAKE SHOES
Bonded linings should be replaced when worn to a
thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Fig. 9 BRAKE COMPONENTS
1 - SECONDARY SHOE
2 - SHOE GUIDE PLATE
3 - PRIMARY SHOE
4 - HORSE SHOE RETAINING CLIP
5 - PRIMARY RETURN SPRING
6 - PARK BRAKE STRUT
7 - HOLD DOWN SPRING AND RETAINERS
8 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
9 - ADJUSTER SCREW ASSEMBLY
10 - ADJUSTER LEVER
11 - ADJUSTER CABLE
12 - SECONDARY RETURN SPRING
13 - CABLE GUIDE
14 - WHEEL CYLINDER
15 - PARK BRAKE STRUT AND SPRING
16 - SUPPORT PLATE
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components
if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the
springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Over-
heating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support
plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are
worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is
bent or distorted.
(1) Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with carburetor cleaner followed by
final rinse with brake cleaner.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 10).
(5) Lubricate the adjuster screw threads and pivot
with spray lube.
(6) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(7) Attach the parking brake cable to lever (if
removed).
(8) Install the brake shoes on support plate.
Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and
retainers.
(9) Install the parking brake strut and spring.(10) Install the guide plate and adjuster cable on
anchor pin.
(11) Install the adjuster cable guide on the shoe.
(12) Install the primary and secondary return
springs.
(13) Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
(14) Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever
and connect to adjuster cable.
(15) Adjust the shoes to the drum (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(16) Install the brake drum.
(17) Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower
vehicle (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self-ad-
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the
only time adjustment is required is when the shoes
are replaced, removed for access to other parts, or
when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE
(1) Be sure parking brakes are fully released.
(2) Raise rear of vehicle and remove wheels and
brake drums.
(3) Verify that left and right automatic adjuster
levers and cables are properly connected.
(4) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge
until gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 11).
(5) Reverse gauge and install it on brake shoes.
Position gauge legs at shoe centers as shown (Fig.
12). If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), adjust
shoes.
(6) Pull shoe adjuster lever away from adjuster
screw star wheel.
(7) Turn adjuster screw star wheel (by hand) to
expand or retract brake shoes. Continue adjustment
until gauge outside legs are light drag-fit or 30 thou-
sands of an inch clearence on the shoes.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower
vehicle.
(9) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
Fig. 10 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The disc brake rotor can be machined if scored or
worn. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor
simultaneously with dual cutter heads. The rotor
mounting surface must be clean before placing on the
lathe. Equipment capable of machining only one side
at a time may produce a tapered rotor. A hub
mounted on-vehicle lathe is recommended. This type
of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.CAUTION: Brake rotors that do not meet minimum
thickness specifications before or after machining
must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper adapter (Fig. 30). (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub.
(2) Install the caliper mounting adapter. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
Fig. 28 Checking Rotor Runout And Thickness
Variation
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 29 Measuring Rotor Thickness
1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 30 DISC BRAKE ROTOR
1 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
4 - SHOES
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 19
ROTORS (Continued)

JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The junction block and a rear brake proportioning
valve. The valve is not repairable and must be
replaced as an assembly if diagnosis indicates this is
necessary.
OPERATION
PROPORTIONING VALVE
The proportioning valve is used to balance front-
rear brake action at high decelerations. The valve
allows normal fluid flow during moderate braking.
The valve only controls fluid flow during high decel-
erations brake stops. If the primary brake hydraulic
circuit cannot build pressure a by-pass feature is
activated allowing full flow and pressure to the rear
brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE
The valve controls fluid flow. If fluid enters the
valve and does not exit the valve the combination
valve must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the junction
block.
(3) Remove mounting nuts and bolt and remove
the junction block (Fig. 31).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the junction block on the mounting
studs.
(2) Install mounting nuts and bolt. Tighten to 14
N´m (125 in. lbs.).
(3) Install brake lines to the junction block and
tighten to 20 N´m (180 in. lbs.).
(4) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the steering coloumn
support bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash
panel. The unit is serviced as an assembly, except for
the pedal pad.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which move the booster
secondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the knee blocker under the steering
column,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
KNEE BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the retainer clip securing the booster
push rod to pedal (Fig. 32).
(3) Remove the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(5) Remove the pedal from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the pedal into the vehicle.
(2) Install the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Lubricate the brake pedal pin and bushings
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(5) Install the booster push rod on the pedal pin
and install a new retainer clip (Fig. 32).
(6) Install the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 31 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - JUNCTION BLOCK
2 - MOUNTING NUT
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEKJ

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing. The diaphragms are connected to
the booster primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting
at one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 33).
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 34).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
Fig. 32 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - CLIP
4 - BRAKE PEDAL
5 - BOOSTER ROD
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
PEDAL (Continued)

(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 35).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the wire to the fluid level switch at
the bottom of the reservoir.(2) Remove the master cylinder (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(4) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der and the HCU (abs vehicles only) or the junction
block for clearence.
(5) Disconnect the HCU from the mounts and
move to the side for clearence of the booster.
Fig. 33 Power Brake Booster±Typical
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - FRONT DIAPHRAGM
3 - REAR DIAPHRAGM
4 - HOUSING
5 - SEAL
6 - AIR FILTER7 - PRIMARY PUSH ROD (TO BRAKE PEDAL)
8 - ATMOSPHERIC INLET VALVE ASSEMBLY
9 - BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS (4)
10 - SECONDARY PUSH ROD (TO MASTER CYLINDER)
11 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUD (2)
12 - SPRING
5 - 22 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)