Heating JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Repair Manual

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - SPECIFICA-
TIONS)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove air filter housing and inlet tube.
(5) Remove intake manifold.
(6) Remove heater tube support bracket from cyl-
inder head.
(7) Disconnect radiator upper and heater supply
hoses from water outlet connections.
(8) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(9) Raise vehicle and remove exhaust pipe from
manifold.
(10) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
Do not disconnect lines.
(11) Remove accessory drive bracket
(12) Remove ignition coil and wires from engine.
(13) Disconnect cam sensor and fuel injector wir-
ing connectors.
(14) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(15) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear tim-
ing belt cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
(16) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Identify rocker arm position to ensure cor-
rect re-installation in original position, if reused.
(18) Remove rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove cylinder head bolts in REVERSE
sequence of tightening.
(20) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
(21) Inspect and clean cylinder head. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSPECTION) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - CLEANING)
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
9s - 20 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen the nuts from the clamp that hold the
catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe flange connec-
tion.
11 - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)

NOTE: Do not remove nut from T-Bolt. Only remove
nut far enough, so that the T end can be removed
from the clamp.
(6) Remove the T bolt end of the fastener, from the
clamp.
(7) Spread the clamp, and remove the catalytic
converter from the vehicle.
(8) Discard the clamp (Fig. 1).
NOTE: The catalytic converter to exhaust manifold
clamp is not reusable. Always use a new clamp
when reinstalling the catalytic converter.
INSPECTION
Look at the stainless steel body of the converter,
inspect for bulging or other distortion that could be a
result of overheating. If the converter has a heat
shield attached make sure it is not bent or loose.
If you suspect internal damage to the catalyst, tap-
ping the bottom of the catalyst with a rubber mallet
may indicate a damaged core.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the catalytic converter onto the
exhaust pipe flange connection. Tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.(2) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
until the alignment tab is inserted into the align-
ment slot.
(3) Install the exhaust clamp at the muffler and
catalytic converter connection. Tighten the clamp
nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and exhaust system contact with the body panels.
Adjust the alignment, if needed.
CROSS-OVER PIPE
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with lubricant.
Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the retaining fasteners holding cross-
over pipe to exhaust pipe.
(4) Remove the fasteners from the crossover pipe
to the catalytic converter connection.
(5) Remove the crossove pipe from the hanger
insulator (Fig. 2).
INSTALLATION
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
Fig. 1 Catalyst Removal
1 - V-Clamp
2 - Catalytic Converter
3 - Flange
4 - Crossover Pipe
5 - T-Bolt
KJEXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen and remove the nuts from the clamp
that hold the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe
flange connection.
11s - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)

2.4L ENGINES
(1) Disconnect the oxygen sensors.
(2) Remove the two bolts and flanged nuts at the
manifold (Fig. 1).
(3) Lower the catalyst assembly and slide out of
the mount at the transmission (if equipped).
(4) Remove the catalyst assembly from the vehicle.
3.7L ENGINES
NOTE: Do not remove nut from T-Bolt. Only remove
nut far enough, so that the T end can be removed
from the clamp.
(1) Remove the T bolt end of the fastener, from the
clamp.
(2) Spread the clamp, and remove the catalytic
converter from the vehicle.
(3) Discard the clamp (Fig. 2).
NOTE: The catalytic converter to exhaust manifold
clamp is not reusable. Always use a new clamp
when reinstalling the catalytic converter.
INSPECTION
Look at the stainless steel body of the converter,
inspect for bulging or other distortion that could be a
result of overheating. If the converter has a heat
shield attached make sure it is not bent or loose.
If you suspect internal damage to the catalyst, tap-
ping the bottom of the catalyst with a rubber mallet
may indicate a damaged core.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the catalytic converter onto the
exhaust pipe flange connection. Tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
until the alignment tab is inserted into the align-
ment slot.
(3) Install the exhaust clamp at the muffler and
catalytic converter connection. Tighten the clamp
nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and exhaust system contact with the body panels.
Adjust the alignment, if needed.
Fig. 1 2.4L CATALYST ASSEMBLY - 4x4
1- FLANGED NUT
2- CATALYST ASSEMBLY
3- BOLT
4- HANGER
5- NUT
Fig. 2 Catalyst Removal
1 - V-Clamp
2 - Catalytic Converter
3 - Flange
4 - Crossover Pipe
5 - T-Bolt
KJEXHAUST SYSTEM 11s - 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
2.4L
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is
mounted into the rear of the intake manifold. An
o-ring is used to seal the sensor to the intake mani-
fold (Fig. 19).
(1) Clean MAP sensor mounting hole at intake
manifold.
(2) Check MAP sensor o-ring seal for cuts or tears.
(3) Position sensor into manifold.
(4) Install MAP sensor mounting screws. Tighten
screw to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect electrical connector.
3.7L
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is
mounted into the front of the intake manifold (Fig.
18). An o-ring is used to seal the sensor to the intake
manifold (Fig. 19).
(1) Clean MAP sensor mounting hole at intake
manifold.
(2) Check MAP sensor o-ring seal for cuts or tears.
(3) Position sensor into manifold.
(4) Install MAP sensor mounting bolts (screws).
Tighten screws to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect electrical connector.
OXYGEN SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Oxygen Sensors (O2S) are attached to, and
protrude into the vehicle exhaust system. Depending
on the engine or emission package, the vehicle may
use a total of either 2 or 4 sensors.
2.4L Engine:Two sensors are used: upstream
(referred to as 1/1) and downstream (referred to as
1/2). With this emission package, the upstream sen-
sor (1/1) is located just before the main catalytic con-
vertor. The downstream sensor (1/2) is located just
after the main catalytic convertor.
3.7L V-6 Engine:On this emissions package, 4
sensors are used: 2 upstream (referred to as 1/1 and
2/1) and 2 downstream (referred to as 1/2 and 2/2).
With this emission package, the right upstream sen-
sor (2/1) is located in the right exhaust downpipe just
before the mini-catalytic convertor. The left upstream
sensor (1/1) is located in the left exhaust downpipe
just before the mini-catalytic convertor. The right
downstream sensor (2/2) is located in the right
exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic con-
vertor, and before the main catalytic convertor. The
left downstream sensor (1/2) is located in the left
exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic con-
vertor, and before the main catalytic convertor.
OPERATION
An O2 sensor is a galvanic battery that provides
the PCM with a voltage signal (0-1 volt) inversely
proportional to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust.
In other words, if the oxygen content is low, the volt-
age output is high; if the oxygen content is high the
output voltage is low. The PCM uses this information
to adjust injector pulse-width to achieve the
14.7±to±1 air/fuel ratio necessary for proper engine
operation and to control emissions.
The O2 sensor must have a source of oxygen from
outside of the exhaust stream for comparison. Cur-
rent O2 sensors receive their fresh oxygen (outside
air) supply through the O2 sensor case housing.
Four wires (circuits) are used on each O2 sensor: a
12±volt feed circuit for the sensor heating element; a
ground circuit for the heater element; a low-noise
sensor return circuit to the PCM, and an input cir-
cuit from the sensor back to the PCM to detect sen-
sor operation.
Oxygen Sensor Heater Relay - 3.7L Engine:On
the 3.7L engine, 4 heated oxygen sensors are used. A
separate oxygen sensor relay is used to supply volt-
age to the sensors heating elements for only the 1/2
and 2/2 downstream sensors. Voltage for the other 2
sensor heating elements is supplied directly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through a Pulse
Width Module (PWM) method.
Pulse Width Module (PWM):Voltage to the O2
sensor heating elements is supplied directly from the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through two sepa-
rate Pulse Width Module (PWM) low side drivers.
PWM is used on both the upstream and downstream
O2 sensors on the 2.4L engine, and only on the 2
upstream sensors (1/1 and 2/1) on the 3.7L engine.
The main objective for a PWM driver is to avoid over-
heating of the O2 sensor heater element. With
exhaust temperatures increasing with time and
engine speed, it's not required to have a full-voltage
duty-cycle on the O2 heater elements.
To avoid the large simultaneous current surge
needed to operate all 4 sensors, power is delayed to
the 2 downstream heater elements by the PCM for
approximately 2 seconds.
Oxygen Sensor Heater Elements:
The O2 sensor uses a Positive Thermal Co-efficient
(PTC) heater element. As temperature increases,
resistance increases. At ambient temperatures
around 70ÉF, the resistance of the heating element is
approximately 4.5 ohms. As the sensor's temperature
increases, resistance in the heater element increases.
This allows the heater to maintain the optimum
operating temperature of approximately 930É-1100ÉF
(500É-600É C). Although the sensors operate the
same, there are physical differences, due to the envi-
14 - 40 FUEL INJECTIONKJ
MAP SENSOR (Continued)

Initial inflation of the tire forces the bead over
these raised sections. In case of rapid loss of air pres-
sure, the raised sections help hold the tire on the
wheel.
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. All aluminum and some steel wheels
have wheel stud nuts with an enlarged nose. This
enlarged nose is necessary to ensure proper retention
of the wheels. Do not use replacement studs or nuts
with a different design or lesser quality.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEELS
Inspect wheels for:
²Excessive run out
²Dents or cracks
²Damaged wheel lug nut holes
²Air Leaks from any area or surface of the rim
NOTE: Do not attempt to repair a wheel by hammer-
ing, heating or welding.
If a wheel is damaged an original equipment
replacement wheel should be used. When obtaining
replacement wheels, they should be equivalent in
load carrying capacity. The diameter, width, offset,
pilot hole and bolt circle of the wheel should be the
same as the original wheel.
WARNING: FAILURE TO USE EQUIVALENT
REPLACEMENT WHEELS MAY ADVERSELY
AFFECT THE SAFETY AND HANDLING OF THE
VEHICLE. USED WHEELS ARE NOT RECOM-
MENDED. THE SERVICE HISTORY OF THE WHEEL
MAY HAVE INCLUDED SEVERE TREATMENT OR
VERY HIGH MILEAGE. THE RIM COULD FAIL WITH-
OUT WARNING.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
REPLACEMENT
Wheels must be replaced if they have:
²Excessive runout
²Bent or dented
²Leak air through welds
²Have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or
welding are not allowed.
Original equipment wheels are available through
your dealer. Replacement wheels from any other
source should be equivalent in:
²Load carrying capacity
²Diameter
²Width
²Offset²Mounting configuration
Failure to use equivalent replacement wheels may
affect the safety and handling of your vehicle.
Replacement withusedwheels is not recommended.
Their service history may have included severe treat-
ment.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL MOUNTING
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
chrome plated wheels.
Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and han-
dling of your vehicle.
To install the wheel, first position it properly on
the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 18).
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Fig. 18 Lug Nut Tightening Pattern
22 - 10 TIRES/WHEELSKJ
WHEELS (Continued)

EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................140
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................140
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................141
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL............................141
INSTALLATION........................141
FUEL FILL DOOR/HOUSING
REMOVAL............................141
INSTALLATION........................141
GRILLE
REMOVAL............................142
INSTALLATION........................142
GRILLE OPENING REINFORCEMENT
REMOVAL............................142
INSTALLATION........................142FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL............................143
INSTALLATION........................143
LUGGAGE RACK
REMOVAL............................144
INSTALLATION........................144
REAR WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL............................144
INSTALLATION........................144
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
FRONT WHEEL OPENING FLARE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
REAR WHEEL OPENING FLARE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL............................146
INSTALLATION........................146
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove and discard the molding from the outside of
the door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean all residue from the body side
molding attachment area of the door.
(2) Wipe area clean with a 50% solution of water
and alcohol and wipe dry.
(3) Apply new body side molding using the locators
in the door and apply pressure of approximately 40
p.s.i. over the entire surface of the molding.
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hood seal.
(2) Remove the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the four plastic retainers and remove
the cowl grill.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the cowl grill and engage the nine
clips to the bottom of the windshield.
(2) Install the five plastic retainers.
(3) Install the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS - INSTAL-
LATION)
(4) Install the hood seal.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating emblem.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, behind
the emblem to separate the adhesive backing from
the body.
23 - 140 EXTERIORKJ

(4) Clean adhesive residue from body with MOPAR
Super Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of emblem.
(2) Position emblem properly on body.
(3) Press emblem firmly to body with palm of
hand.
(4) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating emblem.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wheel opening splash shield. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the fascia assembly. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the fender support bracket bolts. (Fig.
1)
(4) Remove the bolts and remove the fender. (Fig.
2)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fender assembly and install the
bolts
(2) Install the fender support bracket and install
the bolts.(3) Align the fender with adjacent body parts and
tighten the bolts to 12 N´m (9 ft. lbs.). (Refer to 23 -
BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND FLUSH -
SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) Install the fascia assembly. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA -
INSTALLATION)
(5) Install the wheelhouse splash shield. (Refer to
23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLATION)
FUEL FILL DOOR/HOUSING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the fuel cap.
(2) Remove the three screws connecting the fuel
door/housing to the filler neck.
(3) Reach in through the opening and depress the
tabs at the upper and bottom right of the door/hous-
ing. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the fuel door/housing from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fuel filler door/housing into the
vehicle and fully seat the tabs.
Fig. 1 FENDER SUPPORT BRACKET
1 - FENDER BOLTS (2)
2 - FENDER
3 - FENDER SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - SUPPORT BRACKET BOLTS (2)
5 - U-NUTS (2)
Fig. 2 FRONT FENDER
1 - HYDRAFORM
2 - U-NUTS
3 - BOLTS (3)
4 - FENDER
5 - BOLTS (2)
6 - BOLTS (2)
KJEXTERIOR 23 - 141
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES (Continued)

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................1
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
REQUIREMENTS.......................1
DESCRIPTION - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
SERVICE PORT........................2
OPERATION
OPERATION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................2
OPERATION - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
SERVICE PORT........................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C
PERFORMANCE.......................2DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE.......................6
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM
SYSTEM.............................6
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DIODE
REPLACEMENT.......................9
SPECIFICATIONS
A/C APPLICATION TABLE................9
SPECIFICATIONS.....................10
CONTROLS.............................11
DISTRIBUTION..........................29
PLUMBING.............................38
HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER
All vehicles are equipped with a common HVAC
housing assembly (Fig. 1). The system combines air
conditioning, heating, and ventilating capabilities in
a single unit housing mounted under the instrument
panel. On heater-only systems, the evaporator coil is
omitted from the housing.
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
REQUIREMENTS
To maintain the performance level of the HVAC
system, the engine cooling system must be properly
maintained. The use of a bug screen is not recom-
mended. Any obstructions in front of the radiator or
condenser will reduce the performance of the air con-
ditioning and engine cooling systems.
The engine cooling system includes the heater core
and the heater hoses. Refer to Engine Cooling for
more information before the opening of, or attempt-
ing any service to the engine cooling system.
Fig. 1 Blend Door
1 - DEFROSTER DOOR
2- HEATER CORE
3- BLEND DOORS
4- BLOWER MOTOR HOUSING
5- EVAPORATOR (A/C ONLY)
6- LOWER HVAC CASE ASSEMBLY
KJHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 1