length JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
OPERATION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID
The automatic transmission fluid is selected based
upon several qualities. The fluid must provide a high
level of protection for the internal components by
providing a lubricating film between adjacent metal
components. The fluid must also be thermally stable
so that it can maintain a consistent viscosity through
a large temperature range. If the viscosity stays con-
stant through the temperature range of operation,
transmission operation and shift feel will remain con-
sistent. Transmission fluid must also be a good con-
ductor of heat. The fluid must absorb heat from the
internal transmission components and transfer that
heat to the transmission case.
FLUID CAPACITIES
SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
FUEL TANK 18.5 U.S. Gallons (70
Liters)****
ENGINE OIL
Engine Oil - with Filter -
2.4L2.4L (5.0 qts.)
Engine Oil - with Filter -
3.7L3.7L (5.0 qts.)
Engine Oil - With Filter -
2.5L Diesel6.5L (6.9 qts.)
ENGINE COOLANT
Cooling System - 2.4L 9.6L (10.1 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.7L 12.3L (13.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 2.5L
Diesel12.5L (13.2 qts.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Service Fill - 45RFE 4.73L (10.0 pts)
O-haul Fill - 45RFE 13.33L (28.0 pts)
Dry fill capacity Depending on type and size of
internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler
lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may
vary. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
AUTOMATIC/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
TRANSFER CASE
NV231 1.4L (2.95 pts.)
NV242 1.6L (3.4 pts.)
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
NV1500 (Approximate dry
fill or fill to bottom edge of
the fill plug hole.)2.28L (2.41 qts.)
NV3550 (Approximate dry
fill or fill to bottom edge of
fill plug hole.)2.28L (2.41 qts.)
FRONT AXLE
186 FIA (Model 30) 1.24L (41.9 fl. oz.)
REAR AXLE
198 RBI (Model 35) 1.78L (60.2 fl. oz.)*
8 1/4 2.08L (4.4 pts.)*
* When equipped with Trac-lok, include 4.0 ounces of
Friction Modifier.
****Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation
may be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to
manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEKJ
FLUID TYPES (Continued)

(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - PROPELLER
SHAFT ANGLE
The procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMPS AT SAME POSITION
Fig. 3 CLAMPS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
KJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install differential case bearings with Installer
C-3716-A and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 45).
(2) Install differential into the housing.
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring gear and pinion are serviced as a
matched set. Never replace ring gear without
replacing the matched pinion gear.
(1) Raise and support vehicle
(2) Mark pinion companion flange and propeller
shaft for installation alignment.
(3) Remove propeller shaft from pinion companion
flange and tie propeller shaft to underbody.
(4) Remove axle assembly from the vehicle.
(5) Remove differential from axle housing.
(6) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw (Fig. 46).
(7) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
(8) Driver ring gear off the differential case with a
rawhide hammer (Fig. 46).(9) With Spanner Wrench 6958 and a short length
of 1 in. pipe, hold pinion companion flange and
remove pinion nut (Fig. 47).
Fig. 45 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL
3 - BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
Fig. 46 RING GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - HAMMER
Fig. 47 PINION COMPANION FLANGE
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
3 - 44 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS (Continued)

(10) Use Flange Wrench 6958, a length of 1 in.
pipe and a torque wrench set at 678 N´m (500 ft. lbs.)
and crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is
taken up (Fig. 58).
(11) Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N´m (5 ft. lb.)
increments until the required rotating torque is
achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to
avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer (Fig. 59).
(12) Rotate the pinion a minimum of ten times.
Verify pinion rotates smoothly and check rotating
torque with an inch pound torque wrench (Fig. 59).
Pinion gear rotating torque is:
²Original Bearings: 1 to 2.25 N´m (10 to 20 in.
lbs.).
²New Bearings: 1.69 to 2.82 N´m (15 to 25 in.
lbs.).
(13) Invert the differential case and start two ring
gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt
hole alignment.
(14) Invert the differential case in the vise. Install
newring gear bolts and alternately tighten to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 60).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. The
bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
(15) Install differential in housing and verify dif-
ferential bearing preload, gear mesh and contact pat-
tern. Refer to Adjustment for procedure.
(16) Install differential cover and fill with gear
lubricant.
(17) Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(18) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
Fig. 58 PINION FLANGE NUT
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
Fig. 59 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 60 RING GEAR BOLTS
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - RING GEAR BOLTS
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - 48 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing. The diaphragms are connected to
the booster primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting
at one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 33).
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 34).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
Fig. 32 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - CLIP
4 - BRAKE PEDAL
5 - BOOSTER ROD
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
PEDAL (Continued)

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain
case/cover. The machined surfaces may be dam-
aged resulting in leaks.
(11) Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gas-
ket.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough
turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump
body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
The water pump on 3.7L engines is bolted directly
to the engine timing chain case cover.
(1) Clean gasket mating surfaces.
(2) Using a new gasket, position water pump and
install mounting bolts as shown. (Fig. 20). Tighten
water pump mounting bolts to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Spin water pump to be sure that pump impel-
ler does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
(4) Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
(5) Relax tension from belt tensioner. Install drive
belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/
DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not,
engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in
wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 21) for correct belt
routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located
in the engine compartment. The correct belt with
correct length must be used.
(6) Position upper fan shroud and fan blade/vis-
cous fan drive assembly.
(7) Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan
shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow
through the radiator.
(8) Install two fan shroud-to-radiator screws.
(9) Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between
tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
(10) Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to
water pump shaft (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(11) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 20 Water Pump InstallationÐ3.7L
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 21 Belt Routing 3.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
KJENGINE 7 - 31
WATER PUMP (Continued)

(3) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register only a fraction of an ohm resistance.
High or infinite resistance indicates a damaged or
open antenna conductor. If OK, go to Test 3. If not
OK, isolate and test each of the individual antenna
conductor components. Replace only the faulty
antenna conductor component.
TEST 3
Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body
ground connection. To begin this test, proceed as fol-
lows:
(1) This test must be performed with the battery
positive cable disconnected from the battery. Discon-
nect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable
first.
(2) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean
ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other
test lead to the battery negative terminal post. Check
the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
(4) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register less than one ohm resistance. High or
infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
damaged connection between the battery negative
terminal and the vehicle body. If OK, go to Test 4. If
not OK, check the battery negative cable connection
to the vehicle body and the radio noise suppression
ground strap connections to the engine and the vehi-
cle body for being loose or corroded. Clean or tighten
these connections as required.
TEST 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the connection
between the antenna coaxial cable shield and the
vehicle body ground as follows:
(1) Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial
cable connector behind the right side kick panel.
(2) Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean
ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other
test lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial
cable connector. Check the ohmmeter reading for con-
tinuity.
(3) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register less than one ohm resistance. High or
infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
damaged connection between the antenna body and
the vehicle body or between the antenna body and
the antenna coaxial cable shield. If not OK, clean the
antenna body to fender mating surfaces and tighten
the antenna cap nut to specifications.
(4) Check the resistance again with an ohmmeter.
If the resistance is still more then one ohm, replace
the faulty antenna body and cable.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the antenna mast.
(3) Remove cover (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove mounting nut.
(5) Remove bezel adapter.
(6) Remove right kick panel trim.
(7) Disconnect antenna body and cable from the
instrument panel cable. Attach a wire or string
(approximately 2 feet in length) to the cable to aid in
installation of the new cable.
(8) Remove the upper fender mounting bolts.
Loosen the two fender mounting bolts located near
the upper door hinge (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/FRONT FENDER - REMOVAL).
(9) Carefully pull fender out to access the antenna
body and cable. Pull cable up through the opening
with wire attached.
INSTALLATION
(1) Attached wire to new cable. Pull fender out and
insert cable into opening.
(2) Pull cable through hole in kick panel area
using the attached wire.
(3) Connect antenna body cable to the instrument
panel cable.
(4) Install right kick panel trim.
(5) Install bezel adapter.
(6) Install mounting nut. Tighten to 12 N´m (105
in. lbs.).
(7) Install cover.
Fig. 3 ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
1 - ANTENNA MAST
2 - ANTENNA COVER
3 - ANTENNA BASE MOUNTING NUT
4 - ANTENNA BEZEL ADAPTER
5 - ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
8A - 6 AUDIOKJ
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE (Continued)

ness routing and retention, connector pin-out infor-
mation and location views for the various wire
harness connectors, splices and grounds.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the instrument panel center trim
panel.
(3) Remove the radio mounting screws (Fig. 7).
(4) Disconnect the antenna cable by pulling the
locking antenna connector away from the radio (Fig.
8).
(5) Disconnect the electrical harness connector(s).
(6) Remove radio from instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the wire harness connector(s).
(2) Connect the antenna cable.
(3) Install the radio to the instrument panel.
(4) Install the radio mounting screws.
(5) Install the instrument panel center trim panel.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION
GROUND STRAP
DESCRIPTION
Radio noise suppression devices are factory-in-
stalled standard equipment on this vehicle. Radio
Frequency Interference (RFI) and ElectroMagnetic
Interference (EMI) can be produced by any on-board
or external source of electromagnetic energy. These
electromagnetic energy sources can radiate electro-
magnetic signals through the air, or conduct them
through the vehicle electrical system.
When the audio system converts RFI or EMI to an
audible acoustic wave form, it is referred to as radio
noise. This undesirable radio noise is generally man-
ifested in the form of ªbuzzing,º ªhissing,º ªpopping,º
ªclicking,º ªcrackling,º and/or ªwhirringº sounds. In
most cases, RFI and EMI radio noise can be sup-
pressed using a combination of vehicle and compo-
nent grounding, filtering and shielding techniques.
This vehicle is equipped with factory-installed radio
noise suppression devices that were designed to min-
imize exposure to typical sources of RFI and EMI;
thereby, minimizing radio noise complaints.
Factory-installed radio noise suppression is accom-
plished primarily through circuitry or devices that
are integral to the factory-installed radios, audio
power amplifiers and other on-board electrical com-
ponents such as generators, wiper motors, blower
motors, and fuel pumps that have been found to be
potential sources of RFI or EMI. External radio noise
suppression devices that are used on this vehicle to
control RFI or EMI, and can be serviced, include the
following:
²Engine-to-body ground strap- This length of
braided ground strap has an eyelet terminal connec-
tor crimped to each end. One end is secured to the
engine cylinder head(s). The other is secured to the
plenum.
²Resistor-type spark plugs- This type of spark
plug has an internal resistor connected in series
between the spark plug terminal and the center elec-
trode to help reduce the production of electromag-
netic radiation that can result in radio noise.
Fig. 7 RADIO
Fig. 8 ANTENNA TO RADIO
1 - RADIO
2 - LOCKING ANTENNA CONNECTOR
3 - INSTRUMENT PANEL ANTENNA CABLE
KJAUDIO 8A - 9
RADIO (Continued)