alignment JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Repair Manual

headliner hose is glued to top of the headliner and
routed along the right roof side rail to the rear of the
vehicle. At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose
passes through a hole at the rear portion of the roof
rear inner header panel and is connected to the rear
check valve. From the rear check valve, there is a
short section of hose that connects the rear check
valve to the rear washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll
stock, which must then be cut to length. The head-
liner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit
and, if faulty or damaged, the headliner unit must be
replaced. However, the headliner hose is marked
with a white cut line on the A-pillar where the hose
should be cut and spliced with a plastic in-line con-
nector fitting to facilitate headliner removal without
the need to remove the instrument panel. (Refer to
23 - BODY/INTERIOR/HEADLINER - REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION). The molded plastic washer
hose fittings cannot be repaired. If these fittings are
faulty or damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized
and fed by the washer pump/motor through the rear
washer system plumbing and fittings to the rear
washer nozzle located on the roof panel above the
rear flip-up glass opening. Whenever routing the
washer hose or a wire harness containing a washer
hose, it must be routed away from hot, sharp, or
moving parts; and, sharp bends that might pinch the
hose must be avoided.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer nozzle is a fluidic-type unit con-
structed of molded plastic (Fig. 6). The nozzle is
secured by a snap fit in a dedicated mounting hole
located in the rear edge of the roof panel above the
rear flip-up glass opening and to the right of the
Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) unit. A
rubber gasket on the back of the nozzle seals the noz-
zle to the roof panel opening. The back of the nozzle
includes an integral alignment feature on the left
side, an integral engagement tab on the top, an inte-
gral latch feature on the bottom, and the washer
plumbing nipple which are all concealed between the
outer roof panel and the rear roof inner header. The
rear washer nozzle latch feature is a one time com-
ponent, and will be damaged if the nozzle is removed
from its mounting hole for service. The rear washer
nozzle cannot be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or
damaged, the entire nozzle unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the rear flip-up glass. Pressurized washer
fluid is fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by
the washer pump/motor through a single hose, which
is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of the rear
washer nozzle. The rear washer nozzle incorporates a
fluidic design, which causes the nozzle to emit the
pressurized washer fluid as an oscillating stream to
more effectively cover a larger area of the glass area
to be cleaned.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The rear washer nozzle latch feature is a one
time component, and will be damaged if the nozzle is
removed from its mounting hole for service. If
removed from its mounting hole for any reason, the
rear washer nozzle must be replaced with a new unit.
(1) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the bottom of the rear
washer nozzle away from the roof panel until the
latch feature at the bottom of the nozzle that secures
it in the mounting hole of the roof panel snaps.
(2) Pull the rear washer nozzle out from the roof
panel far enough to access the washer hose (Fig. 7).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose from the barbed
nipple on the back of the rear washer nozzle.
(4) Discard the rear washer nozzle.
Fig. 6 Rear Washer Nozzle
1 - ENGAGEMENT TAB (TOP)
2 - GASKET
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - ALIGNMENT FEATURE
5 - ORIFICE
6 - LATCH FEATURE (BOTTOM)
7 - NIPPLE
8R - 36 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSKJ
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES (Continued)

A wiper arm cannot be adjusted or repaired. If
damaged or faulty, the entire wiper arm unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The rear wiper arm is designed to mechanically
transmit the motion from the rear wiper motor out-
put shaft to the rear wiper blade. The wiper arm
must be properly indexed to the motor output shaft
in order to maintain the proper wiper blade travel on
the glass. The wiper arm support is designed to lift
and support the rear wiper arm and blade off of the
glass when the rear wiper blade is parked. This sup-
port and the park ramp on the tailgate outer panel
below the glass also provide an alignment reference
to ensure accurate rear wiper arm and blade instal-
lation. The tapered hole in the wiper arm pivot end
is interlocks with the serrations on the outer circum-
ference of the tapered motor output shaft, allowing
positive engagement and finite adjustment of this
connection. A hex nut secures the wiper arm pivot
end to the threads on the rear wiper motor output
shaft and the pivot cover hinges and snaps over this
connection for a neat appearance. The spring-loaded
wiper arm hinge controls the down-force applied
through the tip of the wiper arm to the wiper blade
on the glass. The hook formation on the tip of the
wiper arm provides a cradle for securing and latching
the wiper blade pivot block to the wiper arm.
REMOVAL
(1) Lift the rear wiper arm pivot cover by lifting it
at the rear wiper motor output shaft end of the arm
(Fig. 9).
(2) Remove the nut that secures the rear wiper
arm to the rear wiper motor output shaft.
(3) If necessary, use a battery terminal puller to
disengage the wiper arm from the rear wiper motor
output shaft splines (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Depending upon the size and type of puller
used, it may be necessary to remove the spare tire
from the tailgate. Refer to the owner's manual in the
vehicle glove box for information on removing the
spare tire from the tailgate.
(4) Remove the rear wiper arm pivot end from the
motor output shaft.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Always install the wiper arm and blade with
the wiper motor in the Park position.
(1) The rear wiper arm must be indexed to the
motor output shaft with the rear wiper motor in the
park position to be properly installed. Place thewiper arm onto the tailgate with the wiper arm sup-
port positioned on the park ramp and the tapered
mounting hole on the pivot end of the arm positioned
over the rear wiper motor output shaft.
(2) Position the tab on the back of the rear wiper
arm support on the tailgate park ramp in the Instal-
lation Position (Fig. 11).
(3) With the wiper arm in the Installation Posi-
tion, push the tapered mounting hole on the pivot
end of the wiper arm down over the rear wiper motor
output shaft.
Fig. 9 Rear Wiper Arm Remove/Install
1 - SPARE TIRE
2 - WRENCH
3 - FLIP-UP GLASS
4 - PARK RAMP
5 - REAR WIPER ARM
6 - PIVOT COVER
Fig. 10 Wiper Arm Puller - Typical
1 - WIPER ARM
2 - WIPER PIVOT
3 - BATTERY TERMINAL PULLER
8R - 38 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSKJ
REAR WIPER ARM (Continued)

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 33).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING - FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 34) (Fig. 35). Check the
bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving,
fatigue and pitting (Fig. 36). Replace any bearing
that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Fig. 33 Bore GaugeÐTypical
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
Fig. 34 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 - UPPER BEARING HALF
2 - MATING EDGES
3 - GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING
JOURNAL DURING INSTALLATION
4 - WEAR PATTERN Ð ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER
BEARING
5 - LOWER BEARING HALF
9 - 40 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 37) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 38). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.Plas-
tigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearance varies, it may be caused by either a
tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign
material trapped between the insert and cap or
rod.
(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace-
ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove
the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing
insert. Proceed with installation.
(8) If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the
specification, determin which services bearing set to
use the bearing sizes are as follows:
Fig. 35 Locking Tab Inspection
1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 36 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
Fig. 37 Piston and Connecting Rod -Installation -
Typical
1 - ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 - RING COMPRESSOR
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 41
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Continued)

FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and
install the bolts hand tight.
(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 51).
(3) Install the transmission.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy. The top ring groove is coated with a anti-seize
coating. The connecting rods are made of forged pow-
dered metal, with a ªfractured capº design. A full
floating piston pin is used to attach the piston to the
connecting rod (Fig. 52).
1 Connecting Rod
2 Piston
3 Piston Pin
4 Oil Slinger Slot
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING - FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs. Check the bearings for normal
wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting.
Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 to install the rod and piston assem-
blies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front
of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston wrist pin
bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
Fig. 51 Flexplate Tightening Sequence
1 - FLEXPLATE
Fig. 52 PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 49

(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The
measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in
this section for procedure.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
TIMING VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the
front cover (Fig. 91). Rotate the crankshaft until the
mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the
TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at
TDC.
(3) Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into
the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each
camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position,
the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6
mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the
engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Fig. 95)
(4) If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in
the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or
both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to Timing
Chain and Sprockets procedure in this section.
(5) If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off
and the other is correct, the problem is confined to
one secondary chain. Refer to Single camshaft tim-
ing, in this procedure.(6) If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at
the twelve o'clock or the six o' clock position the
engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder
head covers.
COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT TIMING
(1) Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both
camshaft sprocket marks are in the 12 o'clock posi-
tion. (Fig. 94)
(2) Look down the left cylinder gear chain cavity.
The timing dot on the counter balance shaft drive
gear should be in the 6 o'clock position (Fig. 92).
TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT
NOTE: to adjust the timing on one camshaft, pre-
form the following procedure.
(1) Using Chain Tensioner Wedge, Special Tool
8379, stabilize the secondary chain drive. For refer-
ence purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position.
(Fig. 93)
(2) Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(3) Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from
the camshaft.
(4) Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain
until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6
mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
Fig. 91 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Mark
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

(5) Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench,
rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the
camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Fail-
ure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt
resulting in bolt failure.
(6) Position the camshaft drive gear onto the cam-
shaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining
bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with
Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench,
Tighten retaining bolt to 122N´m (90 ft. Lbs.).
(7) Remove Special Tool 8379.
(8) Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then
reverify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are
in fact aligned.
(9) Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to Cylin-
der Head Cover in this section.
Fig. 92 COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT ALIGNMENT
MARKS
1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - IDLER SPROCKET
Fig. 93 SECURING TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
USING TIMING CHAIN WEDGE
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 -SPECIAL TOOL 8379
2 - TIMING CHAIN
Fig. 94 CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR REMOVAL/INST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8279 TIMING CHAIN WEDGE
2 - CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR
3 - RETAINING BOLT
4 - CYLINDER HEAD
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 73
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKET(S
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING SYS-
TEM for procedures.
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers.
Refer to CYLINDER HEAD COVER.
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM for procedure.
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft
damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(Fig. 103) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke) and the cam-
shaft sprocket ªV6º marks are at the 12 o'clock posi-
tion (Fig. 102).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(6) Remove power steering pump. Refer to STEER-
ING for procedure.
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 104).
(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain
cover. Refer to procedures.
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position and crankshaft
position sensors (Fig. 105) and (Fig. 106).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77

NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
(11) Align left camshaft sprocket ªLº dot to plated
link on chain.
(12) Align right camshaft sprocket ªRº dot to
plated link on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
(13) Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both
sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts,
then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this
time.
(14) Verify that all plated links are aligned with
the marks on all sprockets and the ªV6º marks on
camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position.
CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left sec-
ondary chain tensioner and block is correctly
installed.
(15) Install both secondary chain tensioners.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners
are not common.(16) Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners.
CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each
tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s)
ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains,
resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
(17) Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adap-
tor Pins 8346, tighten left (Fig. 110) and right (Fig.
111). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.).
(18) Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify tim-
ing marks are at the follow locations:
²primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock
²primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6
o'clock
²secondary chain camshaft sprockets ªV6º marks
are at 12 o'clock
²counterbalancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned
to the idler sprocket gear dot
(19) Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
Fig. 109 COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT ALIGNMENT
MARKS
1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - IDLER SPROCKET
Fig. 110 Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 81
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)