part time JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

FOREWORD
This manual is designed as a supplement to be used along with the 2002 Liberty service manual,
81-370-02060. It includes information related to the 2.4L gas engine installed in this vehicle by
DaimlerChrysler Corporation. For diagnosis or service procedures relating to other components or systems,
refer to the 2002 Liberty Service Manual.
The information contained in this service manual has been prepared for the professional automotive tech-
nician involved in daily repair operations. Information describing the operation and use of standard and
optional equipment is included in the Owner's Manual provided with the vehicle.
Information in this manual is divided into groups. These groups contain description, operation, diagnosis,
testing, adjustments, removal, installation, disassembly, and assembly procedures for the systems and compo-
nents. To assist in locating a group title page, use the Group Tab Locator on the following page. The solid bar
after the group title is aligned to a solid tab on the first page of each group. The first page of the group has
a contents section that lists major topics within the group. If you are not sure which Group contains the infor-
mation you need, look up the Component/System in the alphabetical index located in the rear of this manual.
A Service Manual Comment form is included at the rear of this manual. Use the form to provide
DaimlerChrysler Corporation with your comments and suggestions.
Tightening torques are provided as a specific value throughout this manual. This value represents the
midpoint of the acceptable engineering torque range for a given fastener application. These torque values are
intended for use in service assembly and installation procedures using the correct OEM fasteners. When
replacing fasteners, always use the same type (part number) fastener as removed.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation reserves the right to change testing procedures, specifications, diagnosis,
repair methods, or vehicle wiring at any time without prior notice or incurring obligation.

INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install anewaxle seal with Installer C-4076-B
and Handle C-4735-1. When the tool contacts the
axle tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(4) Install the axle shaft.
(5) Check and fill gear lubricant.
(6) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(7) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the axle tube with
a small pry bar (Fig. 22).
NOTE: The seal and bearing can be removed at the
same time with the bearing removal tool.
(4) Remove axle shaft bearing with Bearing
Removal Tool Set 6310 and Adapter Foot 6310-9 (Fig.
23).
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install axle shaft bearing with Installer C-4198
and Handle C-4171.NOTE: Install bearing with part number against the
installer.
(3) Install anewaxle seal with Installer C-4198
and Handle C-4171. When the tool contacts the axle
tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(4) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(5) Install the axle shaft.
(6) Check and fill gear lubricant.
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Mark the universal joint, pinion yoke and pin-
ion shaft for installation reference.
(3) Remove propeller shaft from pinion yoke.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove the brake drums.
(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
Fig. 22 Axle Seal
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - AXLE SEAL
3-PRYBAR
Fig. 23 Axle Shaft Bearing
1 - NUT
2 - GUIDE PLATE
3 - GUIDE
4 - THREADED ROD
5 - ADAPTER
6 - FOOT
7 - AXLE TUBE
3 - 102 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
AXLE SHAFT SEALS (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE COMPONENTS
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Disc Brake Rotor
VentilatedMax. Runout
0.12 mm (0.005 in.)
Disc Brake Rotor
VentilatedMax. Thickness Variation
0.013 mm (0.0005 in.)
Disc Brake Rotor
VentilatedMin. Thickness
22.7 mm (0.8937 in.)
Disc Brake Caliper Sliding
Brake Drum 9 in. or 10 in.
Brake Booster Dual Diaphragm
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components
if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the
springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Over-
heating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support
plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are
worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is
bent or distorted.
(1) Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with carburetor cleaner followed by
final rinse with brake cleaner.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 10).
(5) Lubricate the adjuster screw threads and pivot
with spray lube.
(6) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(7) Attach the parking brake cable to lever (if
removed).
(8) Install the brake shoes on support plate.
Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and
retainers.
(9) Install the parking brake strut and spring.(10) Install the guide plate and adjuster cable on
anchor pin.
(11) Install the adjuster cable guide on the shoe.
(12) Install the primary and secondary return
springs.
(13) Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
(14) Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever
and connect to adjuster cable.
(15) Adjust the shoes to the drum (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(16) Install the brake drum.
(17) Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower
vehicle (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self-ad-
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the
only time adjustment is required is when the shoes
are replaced, removed for access to other parts, or
when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE
(1) Be sure parking brakes are fully released.
(2) Raise rear of vehicle and remove wheels and
brake drums.
(3) Verify that left and right automatic adjuster
levers and cables are properly connected.
(4) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge
until gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 11).
(5) Reverse gauge and install it on brake shoes.
Position gauge legs at shoe centers as shown (Fig.
12). If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), adjust
shoes.
(6) Pull shoe adjuster lever away from adjuster
screw star wheel.
(7) Turn adjuster screw star wheel (by hand) to
expand or retract brake shoes. Continue adjustment
until gauge outside legs are light drag-fit or 30 thou-
sands of an inch clearence on the shoes.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower
vehicle.
(9) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
Fig. 10 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

BRAKES - ABS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION.........................32
OPERATION...........................32
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ANTILOCK
BRAKING SYSTEM....................33
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING...........................33
SPECIFICATIONS.......................33
ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION.........................34
OPERATION...........................34FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................34
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................35
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
DESCRIPTION.........................35
OPERATION...........................35
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM
The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent
wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip. Pre-
venting lockup helps maintain vehicle braking action
and steering control.
The antilock CAB activates the system whenever
sensor signals indicate periods of high wheel slip.
High wheel slip can be described as the point where
wheel rotation begins approaching 20 to 30 percent of
actual vehicle speed during braking. Periods of high
wheel slip occur when brake stops involve high pedal
pressure and rate of vehicle deceleration.
Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB ignition ter-
minal when the ignition switch is turned to Run posi-
tion. The CAB performs a system initialization
procedure at this point. Initialization consists of a
static and dynamic self check of system electrical
components.
The static check occurs after the ignition switch is
turned to Run position. The dynamic check occurs
when vehicle road speed reaches approximately 30
kph (18 mph). During the dynamic check, the CAB
briefly cycles the pump and solenoids to verify oper-
ation.
If an ABS component exhibits a fault during ini-
tialization, the CAB illuminates the amber warning
light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor
memory.
ELECTRONIC BRAKE DISTRIBUTION
The electronic brake distribution (EBD) functions
like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD system usesthe ABS system to control the slip of the rear wheels
in partial braking range. The braking force of the
rear wheels is controlled electronically by using the
inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU.
OPERATION
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM
During normal braking, the master cylinder, power
booster and wheel brake units all function as they
would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU compo-
nents are not activated.
During antilock braking fluid pressure is modu-
lated according to wheel speed, degree of slip and
rate of deceleration. A sensor at each wheel converts
wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are
transmitted to the CAB for processing and determi-
nation of wheel slip and deceleration rate.
The ABS system has three fluid pressure control
channels. The front brakes are controlled separately
and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input
signal indicating a high slip condition activates the
CAB antilock program. Two solenoid valves are used
in each antilock control channel. The valves are all
located within the HCU valve body and work in pairs
to either increase, hold, or decrease apply pressure as
needed in the individual control channels. The sole-
noid valves are not static during antilock braking.
They are cycled continuously to modulate pressure.
Solenoid cycle time in antilock mode can be mea-
sured in milliseconds.
ELECTRONIC BRAKE DISTRIBUTION
Upon entry into EBD the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure the outlet valve for
5 - 32 BRAKES - ABSKJ

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The clutch pedal position switch is located under
the instrument panel. It is attached to the clutch
master cylinder push rod (Fig. 10). The wiring har-
ness connection for the switch is made in the engine
compartment (Fig. 10).
The clutch pedal position switch override relay is
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
Refer to PDC cover label for location within PDC.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed.
4WD Feature:The clutch pedal position switch
override relay will inhibit operation of the position
switch when the vehicle transfer case is in the four±
wheel±drive (4WD) low-range position (only). This
feature will allow operation of the starter motor,
without the need for depressing the clutch pedal, for
certain off-road applications. If any Diagnostic Trou-
ble Codes (DTC's) for either the override relay or
transfer case switch are stored, the override relay
feature will be inhibited.
An input from this switch is also used to either
shut down and/or prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
(1) Locate switch 2±wire electrical connector in
engine compartment (Fig. 10). Disconnect wiring at
this point.
(2) Check for switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal up and down. Continu-ity should be broken and reapplied each time pedal is
pressed.
(3) If continuity is not present, or is always
present at any pedal position, replace switch. Switch
is not serviced separately. Replace clutch master
cylinder.
Fig. 10 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
3 - CLUTCH PEDAL PIN
4 - MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD
5 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION (IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT)
KJCLUTCH 6 - 11

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BELT BROKEN (NOTE: IDENTIFY
AND CORRECT PROBLEM
BEFORE NEW BELT IS
INSTALLED)1. Excessive tension. 1. Replace belt and automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Incorrect belt. 2. Replace belt.
3. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation.3. Replace belt.
4. Severe misalignment. 4. Check and replace.
5. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure. 5. Replace defective component
and belt.
NOISE (OBJECTIONABLE
SQUEAL, SQUEAK, OR RUMBLE
IS HEARD OR FELT WHILE
DRIVE BELT IS IN OPERATION)1. Belt slippage. 1. Replace belt or automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Bearing noise. 2. Locate and repair.
3. Belt misalignment. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt-to-pulley mismatch. 4. Install correct belt.
BELT TENSIONERS
REMOVAL - 3.7L ENGINE
(1) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tensioner assembly from engine front
cover (Fig. 2).WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING TENSION,
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTOMATIC
TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN ASSEMBLY
(EXCEPT FOR PULLEY ON TENSIONER).
(3) Remove pulley bolt. Remove pulley from ten-
sioner.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L ENGINE
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) An indexing slot is located on back of tensioner.
Align this slot to the head of the bolt on the front
cover. Install the mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Check belt indexing marks (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
DRIVE BELTS - 3.7L
REMOVAL - 3.7L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
Fig. 2 Automatic Belt Tensioner
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - BOLT TORQUE TO 41 N´m (30 FT LBS)
3 - AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
KJACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 17
ACCESSORY DRIVE (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP
BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAM-
AGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts its stop.
Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into
the freearm position. (Fig. 3).INSTALLATION - 3.7L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Check condition of all pulleys.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction (Fig. 3).
(2) Install new belt (Fig. 3). Route the belt around
all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the ten-
sioner arm until it contacts its stop position. Route
the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner
rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto
all pulleys.
(3) With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt
wear indicator (Fig. 4). On 3.7L Engines the gap
between the tang and the housing stop ( measure-
ment A ) must not exceed 24 mm (.94 inches).
Fig. 3 Belt Routing - 3.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
Fig. 4 Accessory Drive Belt Wear Indicator
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
7 - 18 ACCESSORY DRIVEKJ
DRIVE BELTS - 3.7L (Continued)