check engine JEEP XJ 1995 Service And Repair Manual

VALVE COMPONENT REPLACEÐCYLINDER HEAD
NOT REMOVED
ROCKER ARMS AND PUSH RODS
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot
assembly (Fig. 2). Alternately loosen the capscrews
one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.
(3) Check for rocker arm bridges which are causing
misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 2). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or ex-
cessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessivelyworn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for ob-
struction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and in-
stall push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the
pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge
above each cylinder in their originally position.
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
VALVE STEM SEAL AND SPRING REPLACEMENT
This procedure can be done with the engine cylin-
der head installed on the block.
REMOVAL
Each valve spring is held in place by a retainer and
a set of conical valve locks. The locks can be removed
only by compressing the valve spring.
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove capscrews, bridge and pivot assemblies
and rocker arms for access to each valve spring to be
removed.
(3) Remove push rods. Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same order
and position as removed.
(4) Inspect the springs and retainer for cracks and
possible signs of weakening.
(5) Remove the spark plug(s) adjacent to the cylin-
der(s) below the valve springs to be removed.
(6) Connect an air hose to the adapter and apply
air pressure slowly. Maintain at least 621 kPa (90
psi) of air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves
against their seats. For vehicles equipped with an air
conditioner, use a flexible air adaptor when servicing
the No.1 cylinder.
(7) Tap the retainer or tip with a rawhide hammer
to loosen the lock from the retainer. Use Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A to compress the spring
and remove the locks (Fig. 3).
(8) Remove valve spring and retainer (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 Rocker Arm Assembly
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 65

(9) If equipped, disconnect the power steering
pump bracket. Set the pump and bracket aside. DO
NOT disconnect the hoses.
(10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release
procedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(11) Remove the fuel lines and vacuum advance
hose.
(12) Remove the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds from the engine cylinder head (refer to Group
11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the
proper procedures).
(13) Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the
spark plugs.
(14) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(15) Remove the ignition coil and bracket assem-
bly.
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt
No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved for-
ward (Fig. 6). Pull bolt No.14 out as far as it will go
and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape
around the bolt).
(17) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 6).
(18) If this was the first time the bolts were re-
moved, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(19) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cylin-
der bores.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cyl-
inder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and
engine exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head
mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material and car-
bon.
Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material
has fallen into the tappet bore area.Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and top of the pistons.
INSPECTION
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the
flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mating
surfaces.
INSTALLATION
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition
gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY.DO NOT
use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and
the original valves used, measure the valve stem di-
ameter. Only standard size valves can be used with a
service replacement engine cylinder head unless the
replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed
to accommodate oversize valve stems. Remove all
carbon buildup and reface the valves.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder
bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with
the numbers facing up) onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be re-
used only once. Replace the head bolts if they were
used before or if they have a paint dab on the top
of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around
bolt), install the engine cylinder head. Remove the
tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite
592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in se-
quence according to the following procedure (Fig. 7):
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts (in sequence):
²Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolt 11 to 13 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence,
bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than
the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt
No.11.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the cor-
rect torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt
with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you en-
Fig. 6 Engine Cylinder Head Assembly
9 - 68 4.0L ENGINEJ

counter bolts which were painted in an earlier ser-
vice operation, replace them.
(6) Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly.
(7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(8) Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 Nzm
(27 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect the ignition wires.
(9) Install the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds (refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake
Manifold for the proper procedures).
(10) Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance
hose.
(11) If equipped, attach the power steering pump
and bracket.
(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and
bridges in the order they were removed (refer to
Rocker Arms and Push Rods in this section).
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(14) Attach the air conditioner compressor mount-
ing bracket to the engine cylinder head and block.
Tighten the bolts to 40 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Attach the air conditioning compressor to the
bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed
correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water
pump to turn in the opposite direction causing the
engine to overheat.
(16) Install the serpentine drive belt and correctly
tension the belt (refer to Group 7, Cooling System for
the proper procedure).
(17) Install the air cleaner and ducting.
(18) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(19) Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat
housing and fill the cooling system to the specified
level (refer to Group 7, Cooling Systems for the
proper procedure).
(20) The automatic transmission throttle linkage
and cable must be adjusted after completing the en-
gine cylinder head installation (refer to Group 21,
Transmissions for the proper procedures).(21) Install the temperature sending unit and con-
nect the wire connector.
(22) Connect the fuel line.
(23) Connect negative cable to battery.
(24) Connect the upper radiator hose and heater
hose at the engine thermostat housing.
(25) Fill the cooling system. Check for leaks.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN DIRECT
LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT HANDS NEAR
THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
(26) Operate the engine with the radiator cap off.
Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine
until the engine thermostat opens. Add coolant, if re-
quired.
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
This procedure is done with the engine cylinder
head removed from the block.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head from the cyl-
inder block.
(2) Use Valve Spring Compressor Tool
MD-998772A and compress each valve spring.
(3) Remove the valve locks, retainers, springs and
valve stem oil seals. Discard the oil seals.
(4) Use an Arkansas smooth stone or a jewelers
file to remove any burrs on the top of the valve stem,
especially around the groove for the locks.
(5) Remove the valves, and place them in a rack in
the same order as removed.
VALVE CLEANING
Clean all carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers, valve ports, valve stems, valve stem
guides and head.
Clean all grime and gasket material from the en-
gine cylinder head machined gasket surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect for cracks in the combustion chambers and
valve ports.
Inspect for cracks on the exhaust seat.
Inspect for cracks in the gasket surface at each
coolant passage.
Inspect valves for burned, cracked or warped
heads.
Inspect for scuffed or bent valve stems.
Replace valves displaying any damage.
VALVE REFACING
(1) Use a valve refacing machine to reface the in-
take and exhaust valves to the specified angle.
Fig. 7 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening
Sequence
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 69

INSPECTION
Inspect the cam lobes for wear.
Inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear pat-
tern or finish.
Inspect the bearings for wear.
Inspect the distributor drive gear for wear.
If the camshaft appears to have been rubbing
against the timing case cover, examine the oil pres-
sure relief holes in the rear cam journal. The oil
pressure relief holes must be free of debris.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the camshaft with Mopar Engine Oil
Supplement, or equivalent.
(2) Carefully install the camshaft to prevent dam-
age to the camshaft bearings (Fig. 8).
(3) Install the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket retaining preload
bolt. Tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring
and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(6) Install the timing case cover with a replace-
ment oil seal (Fig. 9). Refer to Timing Case Cover In-
stallation.
(7) Install the vibration damper (Fig. 9).
(8) Install the hydraulic valve tappets.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head.
(10) Install the push rods.
(11) Install the rocker arms and pivot and bridge
assemblies. Tighten each of the capscrews for each
bridge alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid dam-
aging the bridge.
(12) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(13) Position the oil pump gear. Refer to Distribu-
tor in the Component Removal/Installation section of
Group 8D, Ignition Systems.(14) Install the distributor and ignition wires. Re-
fer to Distributor in the Component Removal/Instal-
lation section of Group 8D, Ignition Systems.
(13) Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to
the specified tension (refer to Group 7, Cooling Sys-
tem for the proper procedure).
During installation, lubricate the hydraulic
valve tappets and all valve components with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent.
The Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiva-
lent must remain with the engine oil for at
least 1 609 km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement
need not be drained until the next scheduled
oil change.
(16) Install the A/C condenser and receiver/drier
assembly, if equipped (refer to Group 24, Heating and
Air Conditioning).
CAUTION: Both service valves must be opened be-
fore the air conditioning system is operated.
(17) Install the radiator, connect the hoses and fill
the cooling system to the specified level (refer to
Group 7, Cooling System for the proper procedure).
(18) Check the ignition timing and adjust as neces-
sary.
(19) Install the grille and bumper, if removed.
(20) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT PIN REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the radiator. DO NOT waste reusable
coolant. Drain the coolant into a clean container.
Fig. 9 Timing Case Cover ComponentsFig. 8 Camshaft
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 75

(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gasket
material from the cover.
(10) Remove the thrust pin and tension spring
from the preload bolt head.
(11) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
10).
(12) Remove the camshaft sprocket preload retain-
ing bolt and washer.
(13) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(14) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(15) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.
(16) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.(17) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(18) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(19) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
bearing (smallest). This permits easier removal and
installation of the camshaft. The camshaft bearings
are pressure lubricated.
It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and in-
stallation tools are available.
Camshaft end play is maintained by the load
placed on the camshaft by the sprocket preload bolt
tension spring and thrust pin.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the camshaft pin hole.
(2) Compress the center of the replacement spring
pin with vise grips.
(3) Carefully drive the pin into the camshaft pin
hole until it is seated.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 10).
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 11. Count the
number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(6) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(7) Tighten the camshaft sprocket preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Check the valve timing.
(9) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring
and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(10) Coat both sides of the replacement timing case
cover gasket with gasket sealer. Applya3mm(1/8
inch) bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent to the joint formed at the oil pan
and cylinder block.
(11) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
Fig. 10 Timing Chain AlignmentÐTypical
9 - 76 4.0L ENGINEJ

OIL PUMP
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil to
bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
5).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder bore
location. The connecting rods and caps are stamped
with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 2).
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
Fig. 5 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 81

SIDE CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connect-
ing rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to En-
gine Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace
the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.
PISTON FITTING
BORE GAUGE METHOD
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, Special Tool 6879 or equivalent, ca-
pable of reading in .00019INCREMENTS with gauge
ring Special Tool 6884 is required. If a bore gauge is
not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Set the bore gauge to the gauge ring and zero
gauge.
(3) Remove gauge from ring and check cylinder as
shown in (Fig. 8) bore and record reading.
(4) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 58.725 mm (2-5/16 inches) below top
of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees)
to the axis of the crankshaft at point B and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point A.
(5) Recheck bore gauge in gauge ring, bore gauge
should read zero. If gauge does not read zero, reset
gauge and start over with procedure.
The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston
pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.The coated
piston connecting rod assembly can be used to
service previous built engines and MUST be re-
placed as complete sets.Tin coated pistons should
not be used as replacements for the new coated pistons.
The coating material is applied to the piston after
the final piston machining process. Measuring the
outside diameter of a coated piston will not provide
accurate results. Therefore, measuring the inside di-
ameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is
MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper sizepiston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading
.00019increments is required.
Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires
slightly more pressure than that required for non-
coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will
give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cyl-
inder bore.
PISTON PIN
Piston pins are press-fitted into the connecting rods
and require no locking device. The piston, piston pin
and connecting rod are replaced as an assembly.
PISTON RING FITTING
(1) Carefully clean the carbon from all ring
grooves. Oil drain openings in the oil ring groove and
pin boss must be clear. DO NOT remove metal from
the grooves or lands. This will change ring-to-groove
clearances and will damage the ring-to-land seating.
(2) Be sure the piston ring grooves are free of nicks
and burrs.
(3) Measure the ring side clearance with a feeler
gauge fitted snugly between the ring land and ring
(Fig. 11). Rotate the ring in the groove. It must move
freely around circumference of the groove.
(4) Place ring in the cylinder bore and push down
with inverted piston to position near lower end of the
ring travel. Measure ring gap with a feeler gauge fit-
ting snugly between ring ends (Fig. 12). The correct
compression ring end gap is 0.25-0.51 mm (0.010-
0.020 inch). The correct oil control ring end gap is
0.381-1.397 mm (0.015-0.055 inch).
Fig. 8 Bore Gauge
Fig. 9 Piston Size Chart
Fig. 10 Piston Dimensions
9 - 84 4.0L ENGINEJ

ward position. The upper main bearing inserts are
grooved to provide oil channels while the lower in-
serts are smooth.
Each bearing insert pair is selectively fitted to its
respective journal to obtain the specified operating
clearance. In production, the select fit is obtained by
using various-sized color-coded bearing insert pairs
as listed in the Main Bearing Fitting Chart. The
bearing color code appears on the edge of the insert.
The size is not stamped on bearing inserts used
for engine production.
The main bearing journal size (diameter) is identi-
fied by a color-coded paint mark on the adjacent
cheek. The rear main journal, is identified by a color-
coded paint mark on the crankshaft rear flange.
When required, upper and lower bearing inserts of
different sizes may be used as a pair. A standard size
insert is sometimes used in combination with a 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to reduce the clear-
ance by 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).Never use a pair
of bearing inserts with greater than a 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch) difference in size (Fig. 4).
When replacing inserts, the odd size inserts
must be either all on the top (in cylinder block)
or all on the bottom (in main bearing cap).
Once the bearings have been properly fitted, pro-
ceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
BEARING-TO-JOURNAL CLEARANCE (CRANKSHAFT
INSTALLED)
When using Plastigage, check only one bearing
clearance at a time.
Install the grooved main bearings into the cylinder
block and the non-grooved bearings into the bearing
caps.
Install the crankshaft into the upper bearings dry.
Place a strip of Plastigage across full width of the
crankshaft journal to be checked.
Install the bearing cap and tighten the bolts to 108
Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
DO NOT rotate the crankshaft. This will
cause the Plastigage to shift, resulting in an in-
accurate reading. Plastigage must not be per-
mitted to crumble. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.Remove the bearing cap. Determine the amount of
clearance by measuring the width of the compressed
Plastigage with the scale on the Plastigage envelope
(Fig. 5). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper
clearance.
Plastigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If clearance var-
ies, it may indicate a tapered journal or foreign ma-
terial trapped behind the insert.
If the specified clearance is indicated and there are
no abnormal wear patterns, replacement of the bear-
ing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage
from the crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Pro-
ceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
If the clearance exceeds specification, install a pair
of 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) undersize bearing inserts
and measure the clearance as described in the previ-
ous steps.
The clearance indicatewith the 0.025 mm (0.001
inch) undersize insert pair installed will determine if
this insert size or some other combination will pro-
vide the specified clearany.
FOR EXAMPLE:If the clearance was 0q762 mm
(0.003 inch) originally, a pair of 0.0254 mm (0.001
inch) undersize inserts would reduce the clearance by
0.0254 mm (0.001 inch). The clearance would then be
0.0508 mm (0.002 inch) and within the specification.
A 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize bearing insert
and a 0.0254 mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert would
reduce the original clearance an additional 0.0127
mm (0.0005 inch). The clearance would then be
0.0381 mm (0.0015 inch).
CAUTION: Never use a pair of inserts that differ
more than one bearing size as a pair.
FOR EXAMPLE:DO NOT use a standard size up-
per insert and a 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize
lower insert.
Fig. 4 Bearing Insert Pairs
Fig. 5 Measuring Bearing Clearance with Plastigage
9 - 88 4.0L ENGINEJ

If the clearance exceeds specification using a pair
of 0.051 mm (0.002 inch) undersize bearing inserts,
measure crankshaft journal diameter with a mi-
crometer. If the journal diameter is correct, the
crankshaft bore in the cylinder block may be mis-
aligned, which requires cylinder block replacement or
machining to true bore.
Replace the crankshaft or grind to accept the ap-
propriate undersize bearing inserts if:
²Journal diameters 1 through 6 are less than
63.4517 mm (2.4981 inches)
²Journal 7 diameter is less than 63.4365 mm
(2.4975 inches).
Once the proper clearances have been obtained,
proceed to Crankshaft Main BearingÐInstallation.
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT
REMOVED)
Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block (re-
fer to Cylinder Block - Disassemble).
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper and out of round is
0.013 mm (0.0005 inch). Compare the measured di-
ameter with the journal diameter specification (Main
Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to ob-
tain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block (refer
to Cylinder Block - Assemble and Crankshaft Main
Bearings - Installation).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the bearing surface of each insert
with engine oil.
(2) Loosen all the main bearing caps. Install the
main bearing upper inserts.
(3) Install the lower bearing inserts into the main
bearing caps.
(4) Install the main bearing cap(s) and lower in-
sert(s).
(5) Tighten the bolts of caps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, and 7 to
54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Now tighten these bolts to
95 Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Finally, tighten these
bolts to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Push the crankshaft forward and backward.
Load the crankshaft front or rear and tighten cap
bolt No.3 to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque. Then tighten
to 95 Nzm (70 ft. lbs.) torque and finally tighten to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Rotate the crankshaft after tightening each
main bearing cap to ensure the crankshaft rotates
freely.
(8) Check crankshaft end play. Crankshaft end
play is controlled by the thrust bearing which is
flange and installed at the No.2 main bearing posi-
tion.(a) Attach a magnetic base dial indicator to the
cylinder block at either the front or rear of the en-
gine.
(b) Position the dial indicator rod so that it is
parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.
(c) Pry the crankshaft forward, position the dial
indicator to zero.
(d) Pry the crankshaft forward and backward.
Note the dial indicator readings. End play is the
difference between the high and low measurements
(Fig. 6). Correct end play is 0.038-0.165 mm
(0.0015-0.0065 inch). The desired specifications are
0.051-0.064 mm (0.002-0.0025 inch).
(e) If end play is not within specification, inspect
crankshaft thrust faces for wear. If no wear is ap-
parent, replace the thrust bearing and measure
end play. If end play is still not within specifica-
tion, replace the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft was removed, install the crank-
shaft into the cylinder block (refer to Cylinder Block -
Assemble).
(9) Install the oil pan.
(10) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that ef-
fectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
Fig. 6 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 89

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
outlet. Ensure that the locator on the converter
aligns with the notch on the muffler, if so equipped.
Install the clamp and tighten the nuts finger tight.
(2) Install the exhaust tailpipe into the muffler
outlet. Ensure that the locator on the exhaust
tailpipe aligns with the notch on the muffler, if so
equipped. Install the clamp and tighten the nuts fin-
ger tight.
(3) Install the front exhaust tailpipe supports and
the rear exhaust tailpipe hanger. Ensure that the ex-
haust tailpipe has sufficient clearance from the floor
pan and shields.
(4) Tighten the nuts on the muffler-to-catalytic
converter and the muffler-to-exhaust tailpipe clamps
to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and contact with the body panels and shields.
ENGINE EXHAUST MANIFOLDÐ2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove all components attached to the intake
manifold.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the engine
exhaust manifold.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove fasteners 2 through 5 and remove the
intake manifold (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove fasteners 1, 6 and 7 and remove the
engine exhaust manifold (Fig. 11).
CLEANING
Clean the intake and engine exhaust manifolds and
cylinder head mating surfaces.DO NOT allow for-eign material to enter either the intake mani-
fold or the ports in the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new intake manifold gasket over the
alignment dowels on the cylinder head.
(2) Install the engine exhaust manifold assembly.
Exhaust manifold must be centrally located
over the end studs and spacer (Fig. 11).
(3) Tighten bolt No.1 to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque
(Fig. 11).
(4) Install the intake manifold on the cylinder
head dowels (Fig. 11).
(5) Install bolts 2 through 5 (Fig. 11). Tighten
these bolts to 31 Nzm (23 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install new engine exhaust manifold spacers
over the engine exhaust manifold mounting studs in
the cylinder head (Fig. 11).
(7) Tighten nuts 6 and 7 to 31 Nzm (23 ft. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 11).
(8) Install all components to the intake manifold.
(9) Raise the vehicle.
(10) Connect the exhaust pipe to the engine ex-
haust manifold. Tighten the bolts to 31 Nzm (23 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Connect the battery negative cable.
(13) Start the engine and check for leaks.
ENGINE EXHAUST MANIFOLDÐ4.0L ENGINE
The intake and engine exhaust manifolds on the
4.0L engine must be removed and installed together.
The manifolds use a common gasket at the cylinder
head.
Refer to Intake ManifoldÐ4.0L Engine in this sec-
tion for the proper removal and installation proce-
dures.
INTAKE MANIFOLDÐ2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the air inlet hose from the throttle
body and air cleaner.
(3) Loosen the accessory drive belt tension and re-
move the belt from the power steering pump.
(4) Remove the power steering pump and brackets
from the water pump and intake manifold. Support
power steering pump and bracket with mechanics
wire attached to the radiator upper crossmember.
(5) Remove the fuel tank filler cap to relieve the
fuel tank pressure.
(6) Install the fuel tank filler cap.
(7) Disconnect fuel supply and return tube from
the fuel rail (refer to Group 14, Fuel System - Quick
Connect Fittings).
(8) Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throt-
tle body and the holddown bracket.
Fig. 11 Intake/Engine Exhaust Manifold Installation
(2.5L Engine)
JEXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 7