tow JEEP XJ 1995 Service And Owner's Guide

(8) Check condition of seal at rear of master cylin-
der (Fig. 22). Clean and reposition seal if dislodged.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(9) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster (Fig. 19). Use shop towel wetted with brake
cleaner for this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar ma-
terials will prevent proper cylinder seating and could
result in vacuum leak.
(10) Position master cylinder on booster studs (Fig.
20).Be sure booster push rod is centered and
seated in master cylinder piston shank.
(11) Install and tighten master cylinder attaching
nuts to 25 Nzm (220 in. lbs.) torque.(12) Install HCU as follows:
(a) If only the HCU was removed, position HCU
in mounting bracket. Then install and tighten
three shoulder bolts that attach HCU to bracket
(Figs. 21 and 22). One bolt is used at forward end
of bracket and two at rear as shown.
(b) If HCU and bracket were removed as assem-
bly, position bracket on studs and install attaching
nuts. Tighten nuts to 10-13 Nzm (92-112 in. lbs.)
torque.
(c) On right hand drive models, If brackets were
removed, assemble brackets. Then position lower
bracket on body studs and install attaching nuts
and the one attaching bolt (Fig. 23).
(13) If HCU mounting bracket was not removed,
press solenoid harness connecter fasteners into
mounting bracket holes.
(14) Connect HCU pump motor and solenoid har-
nesses (Figs. 13 and 14).
(15) Connect brakelines to HCU. Start brakeline
fittings in HCU ports by hand to avoid cross thread-
ing (Fig. 24). Then tighten line fittings snug but not
to required torque at this time.
Fig. 18 Checking Master Cylinder Seal
Fig. 19 Cylinder Mounting Surface Of Brake Booster
Fig. 20 Master Cylinder Installation
Fig. 21 Installing HCU Front Shoulder Bolt
Fig. 22 Installing HCU Rear Shoulder Bolts
5 - 28 POWER BRAKE BOOSTERÐBRAKE PEDALÐBRAKELIGHT SWITCHJ

(11) Remove nuts attaching booster to passenger
compartment side of dash panel.
(12) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
(13) Remove dash seal from booster.
(14) If booster is only being removed for access to
other components, cover booster front opening with
clean shop towel.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION (XJ
WITHOUT ABS)
(1) If original booster is being installed, test check
valve with vacuum tool before booster installation.
Replace check valve if it will not hold vacuum.
(2) Install dash seal on booster.
(3) Align and position booster on dash panel (Fig.
17).
(4) In passenger compartment, install nuts that at-
tach booster to dash panel. Tighten nuts just enough
to hold booster in place.
(5) Slide booster push rod onto brake pedal. Then
secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining clip.
(6) Tighten booster attaching nuts to 41 Nzm (30 ft.
lbs.) on XJ and 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) on YJ.
(7) Install instrument panel lower trim cover.
(8) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder
(Fig. 18). Clean and reposition seal if dislodged. Re-
place seal if cut, or torn.
(9) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(10) Align and install master cylinder on booster
studs. Tighten cylinder attaching nuts to 13-25 Nzm
(115-220 in. lbs.) torque.
(11) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(12) Connect and secure brakelines to combination
valve and master cylinder. Start all brakeline fittings
by hand to avoid cross threading.
(13) If combination valve has integral bracket, po-
sition bracket on booster studs. Then install and
tighten bracket attaching nuts to 13-25 Nzm (115-220
in. lbs.) torque.
(14) Connect wire to combination valve switch.
(15) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
(16) Bleed brakes. Refer to procedures in section
on brake bleeding.
(17) Install engine air cleaner and hoses.
(18) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL (YJ)
(1) Disconnect brakelines at master cylinder. Then
loosen lines at combination valve and move lines
away from cylinder.
(2) Remove nuts master cylinder to booster studs.
(3) If combination valve has integral bracket, slide
bracket off studs and move valve aside.
(4) Remove master cylinder. Slide cylinder off
studs and remove it from engine compartment.
(5) Working under instrument panel, remove re-
tainer clip that secures booster push rod to brake
pedal.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose at booster check valve.
(7) On non-ABS models, remove nuts attaching
brake booster spacer to dash panel and remove
booster (Fig. 26).
(8) On ABS models, remove nuts attaching booster
to spacer and remove booster (Fig. 27).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION (YJ)
(1) Install seal on booster spacer, if equipped.
(2) Position booster on dash panel, or on spacer.
(3) Secure booster push rod to brake pedal with re-
taining clip.
(4) Install and tighten booster attaching nuts to
27-47 Nzm (20-35 ft. lbs.) torque. Nut torque applies
to both styles of booster.
Fig. 26 Booster Mounting (4-Cyl. Models)
Fig. 27 Booster Mounting (With ABS)
5 - 30 POWER BRAKE BOOSTERÐBRAKE PEDALÐBRAKELIGHT SWITCHJ

air gap should be 0.40 to 1.3 mm (0.0157 to 0.051
in.). If gap is incorrect, the sensor is either loose, or
damaged.
A rear sensor air gap adjustment is only needed
when reinstalling an original sensor. Replacement
sensors have an air gap spacer attached to the sensor
pickup face. The spacer establishes correct air gap
when pressed against the tone ring during installa-
tion. As the tone ring rotates, it peels the spacer off
the sensor to create the required air gap. Rear sensor
air gap is 0.92-1.45 mm (0.036-0.057 in.).
Sensor air gap measurement, or adjustment proce-
dures are provided in this section. Refer to the front,
or rear sensor removal and installation procedures as
required.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and turn wheel outward for easier
access to sensor.
(2) Remove sensor wire from mounting brackets.
(3) Clean sensor and surrounding area with shop
towel before removal.
(4) Remove bolt attaching sensor to steering
knuckle and remove sensor.
(5) remove sensor wire from brackets on body and
steering knuckle.
(6) Unseat sensor wire grommet in wheel house
panel.
(7) In engine compartment, disconnect sensor wire
connector at harness plug. Then remove sensor and
wire.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION
(1) Iforiginalsensor will be installed, wipe all
traces of old spacer material off sensor pickup face.
Use a dry shop towel for this purpose.
(2) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to bolt
that secures sensor in steering knuckle. Use new
sensor bolt if original bolt is worn or damaged.
(3) Position sensor on steering knuckle. Seat sen-
sor locating tab in hole in knuckle and install sensor
attaching bolt finger tight.
(4) Tighten sensor attaching bolt to 14 Nzm (11 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(5) If original sensor has been installed, check sen-
sor air gap. Air gap should be 0.40 to 1.3 mm (0.0157
to 0.051 in.). If gap is incorrect, sensor is either loose,
or damaged.
(6) Secure sensor wire to steering knuckle and
body brackets.
(7) Route sensor wire forward and behind shock
absorber. Then attach sensor wire to spring seat
bracket with grommets on sensor wire.
(8) Route sensor wire to outer sill bracket. Remove
all twists or kinks from wire.
(9) Attach sensor wire to sill bracket with grom-
met. Be sure wire is free of twists and kinks.(10) Verify sensor wire routing. Wire should loop
forward and above sill bracket. Loose end of wire
should be below sill bracket and towards brake hose.
(11) Seat sensor wire grommet in body panel and
clip wire to brake line at grommet location.
(12) Connect sensor wire to harness in engine com-
partment.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) On XJ models, raise and fold rear seat forward
for access to rear sensor connectors (Fig. 9).
(2) Disconnect sensors at rear harness connectors.
(3) Push sensor grommets and sensor wires
through floorpan.
(4) Raise vehicle.
(5) Disconnect sensor wires at rear axle connectors.
(6) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(7) Remove brake drum.
(8) Remove clips securing sensor wires to brake-
lines, rear axle and, brake hose.
(9) Unseat sensor wire support plate grommet.
(10) Remove bolt attaching sensor to bracket and
remove sensor.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION AND
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Iforiginal sensoris being installed, remove
any remaining pieces of cardboard spacer from sen-
sor pickup face. Use dry shop towel only to remove
old spacer material.
(2) Insert sensor wire through support plate hole.
Then seat sensor grommet in support plate.
(3) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to
Fig. 9 Acceleration Switch And Rear Sensor
Connections (XJ)
5 - 38 ABS OPERATION AND SERVICEJ

HCU REMOVAL (YJ)
(1) Place shop towels under master cylinder and
HCU brakelines.
(2) Disconnect flex lines at upper part of HCU.
(3) Disconnect solenoid and pump harness wires at
HCU harness connecters.
(4) Disconnect lines to front/rear brakes at lower
part of HCU.
(5) Remove shoulder bolts attaching HCU to
mounting bracket and remove HCU.
HCU INSTALLATION (YJ)
(1) Position HCU in mounting bracket (Fig. 27).
(2) Install shoulder bolts that attach HCU to
bracket.
(3) Connect brakelines to HCU. Start brakeline fit-
tings by hand to avoid cross threading. Tighten fit-
tings snug but not to torque at this time.
(4) Connect HCU pump and solenoid harness wires
to engine compartment harness.
(5) Fill and bleed brake system.
(6) Tighten brakeline fittings to 15-18 Nzm
(130-160 in. lbs.) at HCU and master cylinder, and to
18-24 Nzm (160-210 in. lbs.) at combination valve.
Fig. 27 HCU Mounting (YJ)
5 - 44 ABS OPERATION AND SERVICEJ

(8) Remove outboard shoe. Press one end of shoe
inward to disengage shoe lug. Then rotate shoe up-
ward until retainer spring clears caliper. Press oppo-
site end of shoe inward to disengage shoe lug and
rotate shoe up and out of caliper (Fig. 7).
(9) Remove inboard shoe. Grasp ends of shoe and
tilt shoe outward to release springs from caliper pis-
ton (Fig. 8). Then remove shoe from caliper.
(10) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(11) Wipe caliper off with shop rags or towels.Do
not use compressed air. Compressed air can un-
seat dust boot and force dirt into piston bore.
(12) Inspect condition of caliper piston dust boot
(Fig. 9). Overhaul caliper if there is evidence of leak-
age past piston and dust boot. Then inspect caliper
bushings and boots (Fig. 9). Replace boots if torn or
cut. If bushings or boots are damaged, replace them.
DISC BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean brakeshoe mounting ledge slide surfaces
of steering knuckle with wire brush. Then apply light
coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease to slide surfaces
(Fig. 10).
(2) Lubricate caliper mounting bolts and bushings
(Fig. 10). Use GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease.
(3) Keep new or original brakeshoes in sets. Do not
interchange them.
(4) Install inboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 11). Be sure
shoe retaining springs are fully seated in caliper pis-
ton.
(5) Install outboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 12). Start
one end of shoe in caliper. Rotate shoe downward and
into place until shoe locating lugs and shoe spring
are seated.
(6) Verify that locating lugs on outboard shoe are
seated in caliper (Fig. 6).
(7) Install caliper. Position notches at lower end of
brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge (Fig. 13). Then
Fig. 7 Removing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 8 Removing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 9 Caliper Dust Boots And Bushing Locations
Fig. 10 Caliper Lubrication Points
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 47

(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure to
ease the piston out. In addition, NEVER attempt to
catch the piston as it leaves the bore. This will re-
sult in personal injury.(4) Remove caliper piston dust boot (Fig. 17). Col-
lapse boot with suitable tool and remove and discard
boot.
(5) Remove and discard caliper piston seal with
wood or plastic tool (Fig. 18). Do not use metal tools
as they will scratch piston bore.
(6) Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots (Fig. 19).
Fig. 15 Padding Caliper Interior To Protect Piston
During Removal
Fig. 16 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 17 Removing Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 18 Removing Caliper Piston Seal
Fig. 19 Caliper Bushing And Boot
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 49

CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin and should be smooth and clean. Re-
place the piston if cracked, chipped, or scored. Do not
attempt to restore a scored, or corroded piston sur-
face by sanding or polishing. The piston must be re-
placed if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone
grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not
reuse the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts. Bolts
that are too long will partially apply the inboard
brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the caliper
and brakeshoe installation procedures for service de-
tails and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).
(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C- 4171 (Fig. 24).
(9) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
5 - 50 DISC BRAKESJ

(4) Position clutch disc on flywheel. Be sure side of
disc marked flywheel side is positioned against fly-
wheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, be sure flat side
of disc hub is toward flywheel.
(5) Inspect condition of pressure plate surface of
clutch cover (Fig. 2). Replace cover if this surface is
worn, heat checked, cracked, or scored.
(6) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc (Fig.
3).
(7) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on flywheel. Be sure disc hub is positioned
correctly. Side of hub marked Flywheel Side should
face flywheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, place flat
side of disc against flywheel.
(8) Position clutch cover over disc and on flywheel
(Fig. 3).
(9) Install clutch cover bolts finger tight.(10) Tighten cover bolts evenly and in rotation a
few threads at a time.Cover bolts must be tight-
ened evenly and to specified torque to avoid
distorting cover. Tightening torques are 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) on 2.5L engines and 54 Nzm (40 ft.
lbs.) on 4.0L engines.
(11) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to pilot bearing hub and splines of
transmission input shaft.Do not overlubricate
shaft splines. This will result in grease contam-
ination of disc.
(12) Install transmission (Figs. 4 and 5). Refer to
procedures in Group 21.
RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission as described in Group 21.
Fig. 2 Clutch Disc And Pressure Plate InspectionFig. 3 Typical Method Of Aligning Clutch Disc
Fig. 4 Manual Transmission Mounting (4.0L)
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 11

EXAMPLES:
²If the lamp (Figs. 5 or 6) flashes 1 time, pauses
and flashes 2 more times, a flashing Diagnostic Trou-
ble Code (DTC) number 12 is indicated. If this code is
observed, it is indicating that the battery has been
disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles. It
could also indicate that battery voltage has been dis-
connected to the PCM. In either case, other DTC's
may have been erased.
²If the lamp flashes 1 time, pauses and flashes 7
more times, a flashing Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) number 17 is indicated.
²If the lamp flashes 3 times, pauses and flashes 5
more times, a flashing Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) number 35 is indicated.
After any stored DTC information has been ob-
served, the display will end with a flashing DTC
number 55. This will indicate the end of all stored in-
formation.
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, the DRB scan
tool must be used to erase a DTC. Refer to the ap-
propriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service
manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
DRB SCAN TOOL
For operation of the DRB scan tool, refer to the ap-
propriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service
manual.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause.
1. PROLONGED IDLE, VERY HIGH AMBIENT
TEMPERATURE, SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE,
SLOW TRAFFIC, TRAFFIC JAMS, HIGH
SPEED, OR STEEP GRADES:
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is recom-
mended.
2. TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
3. AIR CONDITIONING; ADD-ON OR AFTER
MARKET:
A maximum cooling package should have been or-
dered with vehicle if add-on or after market A/C is
installed. If not, maximum cooling system compo-
nents should be installed for model involved per
manufacturer's specifications.
4. RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been performed
on vehicle that may effect cooling system. This may
be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts (incorrect water pump rotating in
wrong direction)
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refilling
(possibly under-filled or air trapped in system).
If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to following Cooling System Diag-
nosis charts.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to the group text for information.
Fig. 7 Data Link ConnectorÐXJ ModelsÐTypical
Fig. 8 Data Link ConnectorÐYJ ModelsÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 7 - 5

VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Also refer to the previous section on Cooling Sys-
tem Fans.
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 38 or 39) is a
silicone-fluid-filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to either the engine or the water pump shaft.
The coupling allows the fan to be driven in a normal
manner. This is done at low engine speeds while lim-
iting the top speed of the fan to a predetermined
maximum level at higher engine speeds.
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in figure 40). This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm re-
gardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the bi-
metallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again re-
acts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous dis-
engaged speed.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive
belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan
drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to
designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan
or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheat-
ing.CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced be-
cause of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
NOISE
It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very
high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is be-
ing redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
TESTING
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É-to-
105ÉC (0É-to-220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe
light).
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air con-
ditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the
plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
Fig. 40 Typical Viscous Fan Drive
7 - 34 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ