overheating JEEP YJ 1995 Service And User Guide

CAUTION: Do not operate the engine with a spark
plug shorted for more than a minute. The catalytic
converter may be damaged.
Isolate the compression leak by shorting each
spark plug to the cylinder block. The gauge pointer
should stop or decrease vibration when spark plug
for leaking cylinder is shorted. This happens because
of the absence of combustion pressure.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST (WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER)
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow for thermostat re-
moval. Refer to Thermostat Replacement. Disconnect
the water pump drive belt.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the ther-
mostat housing. Remove the housing and thermostat.
Install the thermostat housing.
Add coolant to the radiator to bring the level to
within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate the
engine for an excessive period of time. Open the
draincock immediately after the test to eliminate
boil over of coolant.
Start the engine and accelerate rapidly three times
(to approximately 3000 rpm) while observing the
coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leak-
ing into the cooling system, bubbles will appear in
the coolant. If bubbles do not appear, there is no in-
ternal combustion gas leakage.
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW SYSTEM
The system works along with the radiator pressure
cap. This is done by using thermal expansion and
contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/adjust-
ing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover mi-
nor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and re-
turned to a proper level in the radiator.
The coolant reserve/overflow system consists of a
radiator mounted pressurized cap, a plastic reserve/
overflow tank (Figs. 22, 23 or 24), a tube (hose) con-
necting the radiator and tank, and an overflow tube
on the side of the tank.
Fig. 22 Reserve/Overflow TankÐYJ Models
Fig. 23 Reserve/Overflow TankÐXJ ModelsÐExcept
Right Hand Drive
7 - 24 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (FIG. 27). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. AL-
WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 28). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.XJ MODELS WITH 2.5L 4-CYLINDER ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Observe the previousWARNINGS.Remove ra-
diator cap.
(3) Position drain pan under draincock. Open radi-
ator draincock. Drain radiator.
(4) Remove radiator upper and lower hose clamps
(Figs. 27 and 28). Remove hoses.
(5) Remove E-clip from alignment dowel at radia-
tor lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(6) Disconnect coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from radiator.
(7) Remove four radiator fan shroud mounting
bolts (Fig. 29). Push shroud back against front of en-
gine.
(8) If equipped, disconnect and plug automatic
transmission fluid cooler lines. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(9) Remove two radiator top mounting bolts (Fig.
29).
(10) (a) If equipped with air conditioning, remove
the radiator grille mounting screws and remove grill.
Refer to Group 23, Body for procedures.
(b) If equipped, remove the air conditioning con-
denser-to-radiator mounting bolt. Use an open end
wrench to remove bottom bolts (Fig. 30).
(11) Lift radiator straight up and out of vehicle.
Take care not to damage radiator fins. When remov-
ing radiator, note position of the rubber seals located
on the top, bottom and sides of radiator (Fig. 29). To
prevent possible overheating, these seals must be in-
stalled to their original positions.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install radiator behind air conditioning con-
denser with bottom alignment dowel inserted into ra-
diator lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(2) Install E-clip to radiator alignment dowel (Fig.
29).
(3) Tighten the four condenser-to-radiator mount-
ing bolts to 6.2 Nzm (55 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) If removed, install radiator grille.
(5) Tighten radiator top mounting bolts to 6 Nzm
(55 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) If equipped, connect automatic transmission
fluid cooler lines to radiator. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(7) Install the radiator fan shroud.
(8) Connect the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose.
(9) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamps.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
(11) Close the draincock.
(12) Fill cooling system with correct coolant.
(13) Install radiator cap.
(14) Check and adjust automatic transmission
fluid level (if equipped).
Fig. 27 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 28 Clamp Number/Letter Location
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 27

WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 28). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Observe the previousWARNINGS.Remove the
radiator cap.
(3) Position drain pan under draincock. Open radi-
ator draincock and drain radiator.
(4) Remove radiator upper and lower hose clamps
(Figs 27 and 28). Remove radiator hoses.
(5) Disconnect coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from radiator.
(6) Remove the four fan shroud mounting bolts
(Fig. 35). On some models the power steering fluid
reservoir tank is attached to the side of the fan
shroud. Tie the reservoir back to prevent spillage. Po-
sition the fan shroud back over the fan blades.
(7) If equipped, disconnect and plug automatic
transmission fluid cooler lines.(8) Remove six radiator mounting bolts. Position
the front axle vent hose (Fig. 35) to the side.
(9) Lift radiator straight up and out of vehicle tak-
ing care not to damage radiator fins.
When removing radiator, note position of the rub-
ber seals located on the top and bottom of radiator
(figure 35 on certain models only). To prevent possi-
ble overheating, these seals must be installed to their
original positions.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the radiator. Install and tighten the
six mounting bolts (Fig. 35) to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Close radiator draincock.
(3) Position fan shroud and power steering reser-
voir tank (if equipped). Install and tighten four
mounting bolts to 8 Nzm (72 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) If equipped, remove plugs and connect auto-
matic transmission fluid cooler lines.
(5) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamps.
(6) Connect negative battery cable.
(7) Fill cooling system with correct coolant. Refer
to the Coolant section of this group.
(8) Connect reserve/overflow tank hose.
(9) Install radiator cap.
Fig. 35 RadiatorÐRemove/InstallÐYJ Models
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 31

(10) Check and adjust automatic transmission
fluid level (if equipped).
COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
Rubber hoses route coolant to and from the radia-
tor, intake manifold and heater core. All XJ models
equipped with air conditioning have a coolant control
valve. This is located in-line with the heater core in-
let and outlet hoses. It controls coolant flow to the
heater core when the air conditioning system is in
operation.
Radiator lower hoses are spring-reinforced to pre-
vent collapse from water pump suction at moderate
and high engine speeds.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (FIG. 36). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. AL-
WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 37). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.
Inspect the hoses at regular intervals. Replace
hoses that are cracked, feel brittle when squeezed, or
swell excessively when the system is pressurized.
For all vehicles: In areas where specific routing
clamps are not provided, be sure that hoses are posi-
tioned with sufficient clearance. Check clearance
from exhaust manifolds and pipe, fan blades, drive
belts and sway bars. Improperly positioned hoses can
be damaged, resulting in coolant loss and engine
overheating.Ordinary worm gear type hose clamps (when
equipped) can be removed with a straight screw-
driver or a hex socket.To prevent damage to
hoses or clamps, the hose clamps should be
tightened to 4 Nzm (34 in. lbs.) torque. Do not
over tighten hose clamps.
When performing a hose inspection, inspect the ra-
diator lower hose for proper position and condition of
the internal spring.
COOLING SYSTEM FANS
Also refer to either the Viscous Fan Drive and/or
the Auxiliary Electric Cooling FanÐXJ Models With
4.0L Engine sections for additional information.
All models are equipped with a mechanical temper-
ature controlled fan. This thermal viscous fan drive
(Fig. 38) is a torque-and-temperature-sensitive clutch
unit. It automatically increases or decreases fan
speed to provide proper engine cooling. XJ models
equipped with a 4.0L 6-cylinder engine may also
have an auxiliary electrical cooling fan. This is with
models that have air conditioning and/or heavy duty
cooling.
REMOVAL
Some engines have the mechanical fan/viscous fan
drive assembly mounted directly to the water pump
hub (Fig. 38). It may also be mounted to a hub/bear-
ing attached to an aluminum bracket on the right
front side of engine (Fig. 39).
(1) Loosen but do not remove at this time, the four
fan hub mounting nuts (Figs. 38 or 39).
Fig. 36 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 37 Clamp Number/Letter Location
7 - 32 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain in-
sulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
25). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 1000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
SPARK PLUG SECONDARY CABLES
TESTING
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition cables or secondary wires. The cables
transfer electrical current from the distributor to in-
dividual spark plugs at each cylinder. The spark plug
cables are of nonmetallic construction and have a
built in resistance. The cables provide suppression of
radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.
Fig. 24 Preignition Damage
Fig. 25 Spark Plug Overheating
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine tune-ups.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or me-
chanical (e.g., a strange noise).
Refer to the Service DiagnosisÐPerformance chart
and the Service DiagnosisÐMechanical chart for pos-
sible causes and corrections of malfunctions. Refer to
Group 14, Fuel System for the fuel system diagnosis.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. In-
formation concerning additional tests and diagnosis
is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test.
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test.
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis.
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
METHOD 1
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM'S, the area of the suspected
leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
Refer to Engine Specifications for the correct en-
gine compression pressures.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE
DIAGNOSIS
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually re-
sults in loss of power, loss of coolant and engine mis-
firing.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be located
between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and
the adjacent water jacket.
²An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between
adjacent cylinders is indicated by a loss of power
and/or engine misfire.
²An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between a
cylinder and an adjacent water jacket is indicated by
coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant.
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders; follow the proce-
dures outlined in Cylinder Compression Pressure
Test. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between
adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-
70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE
TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Remove the radiator cap.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the
engine thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak ex-
ists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pres-
sure tester and pressurize the coolant system.
If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into
the water jacket, the tester pointer will pulsate with
every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
JENGINES 9 - 5

EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD
CONTENTS
page page
EXHAUST SYSTEM....................... 1
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS............. 2SERVICE PROCEDURES................... 3
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS................ 10
EXHAUST SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
The basic exhaust system consists of an engine ex-
haust manifold, exhaust pipe with oxygen sensor, cat-
alytic converter, exhaust heat shield(s), muffler and
exhaust tailpipe (Fig. 1).
The exhaust system uses a single muffler with a
single monolithic-type catalytic converter.
The 4.0L engines use a seal between the engine ex-
haust manifold and exhaust pipe to assure a tight
seal and strain free connections.
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to
prevent stress, leakage and body contact. If the sys-
tem contacts any body panel, it may amplify objec-tionable noises originating from the engine or body.
When inspecting an exhaust system, critically in-
spect for cracked or loose joints, stripped screw or
bolt threads, corrosion damage and worn, cracked or
broken hangers. Replace all components that are
badly corroded or damaged. DO NOT attempt to re-
pair.
When replacement is required, use original equip-
ment parts (or their equivalent). This will assure
proper alignment and provide acceptable exhaust
noise levels.
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention com-
pounds or undercoating materials to exhaust sys-
tem floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray
near the edges is permitted. Application of coating
will result in excessive floor pan temperatures and
objectionable fumes.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is de-
signed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If un-
burned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct the
cause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid contami-
nating the catalyst core.
EXHAUST HEAT SHIELDS
Exhaust heat shields are needed to protect both the
vehicle and the environment from the high tempera-
tures developed by the catalytic converter. The cata-
lytic converter releases additional heat into the
exhaust system. Under severe operating conditions,
the temperature increases in the area of the con-
Fig. 1 Typical Exhaust System
JEXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 1

CAUTION: When disconnecting the cruise control
connector at the throttle body, DO NOT pry the con-
nector off with pliers or screwdriver. Use finger
pressure only. Prying the connector off could break
it.
(9) Disconnect the electrical connectors. Pull the
harnesses away from the manifold.
²The throttle position sensor.
²The idle speed control motor.
²The coolant temperature sensor at the thermostat.
²The manifold air temperature sensor at the intake
manifold.
²The fuel injectors.
²The oxygen sensor.
(10) Disconnect the crankcase ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose and manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor vacuum hose connector at the intake mani-
fold.
(11) Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum port on
the intake manifold.
(12) Disconnect CCV hose at the cylinder head
cover (Fig. 12).
(13) Remove the molded vacuum harness.
(14) Disconnect the vacuum brake booster hose at
the intake manifold.
(15) Remove bolts 2 through 5 securing the intake
manifold to the cylinder head (Fig. 11). Slightly
loosen bolt No.1 and nuts 6 and 7.
(16) Remove the intake manifold and gaskets.
Drain the coolant from the manifold.
CLEANING
Clean the intake manifold and cylinder head mat-
ing surfaces.DO NOT allow foreign material to
enter either the intake manifold or the ports in
the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the new intake manifold gasket over the
locating dowels.
(2) Position the manifold in place and finger
tighten the mounting bolts.
(3) Tighten the fasteners in sequence and to the
specified torque (Fig. 11).
²Fastener No.1ÐTighten to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.)
torque.
²Fasteners Nos.2 through 7ÐTighten to 31 Nzm (23
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect the fuel return and supply tube to the
connector next to the fuel rail. Push them into the
fitting until a click is heard. Verify that the connec-
tions are complete.
²First, ensure only the retainer tabs protrude from
the connectors.
²Second, pull out on the fuel tubes to ensure they
are locked in place.
(5) Connect the molded vacuum hoses to the vac-
uum port on the intake manifold and the cylinder
head cover.
(6) Connect the electrical connectors.
²The throttle position sensor.
²The automatic idle speed control motor.
²The coolant temperature sensor at the thermostat
housing.
²The fuel injectors.
²The air manifold temperature sensor.
²The oxygen sensor.
(7) Connect the CCV vacuum hose and MAP sen-
sor vacuum hose connectors to the throttle body.
(8) Install the power steering pump and bracket
assembly to the water pump and intake manifold.
(9) Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control
cable to the holddown bracket and the throttle arm.
CAUTION: Ensure that the accessory drive belt is
routed correctly. Failure to do so can cause the wa-
ter pump to turn in the opposite direction resulting
in engine overheating. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
System for the proper procedure.
(10) Tension the accessory drive belt. Refer to
Group 7, Cooling System for the proper procedure.
(11) Connect the air inlet hose to the throttle body
and the air cleaner.
(12) Connect the battery negative cable.
(13) Start the engine and check for leaks.
INTAKE MANIFOLDÐ4.0L ENGINE
The intake and engine exhaust manifolds on the
4.0L engine must be removed and installed together.
The two manifolds use a common gasket at the cyl-
inder head.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 12 Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) Hose (2.5L
Engine)
11 - 8 EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLDJ

happens when the container delivery mechanism is im-
properly calibrated. Always check the lubricant level af-
ter filling to avoid an under fill condition.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level; use a drive-on hoist to en-
sure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a
minute or so before checking. These recommenda-
tions will ensure an accurate check and avoid an un-
der-or-overfill condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants, compo-
nent damage, incorrect clutch adjustment, or by a
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc.
Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear, shift
rail, synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes un-
detected for an extended period, the first indications
of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise.
Incorrect or contaminated lubricants can also con-
tribute to hard shifting. The consequence of using
non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is a frequent cause of hard
shifting. Incorrect adjustment or a worn, damaged
pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced, gear clash during
shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or re-
built transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases, this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible but only at extreme speeds.
Severe, highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the result of a lubricant problem. Insufficient,
improper, or contaminated lubricant will promote
rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails, forks and
bearings. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission into first or third gear. Then
raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Support engine with adjustable jack stand. Po-
sition wood block between jack and oil pan to avoid
damaging pan.
(3) Disconnect necessary exhaust system components.
(4) Remove skid plate.
(5) Disconnect rear cushion and bracket from
transmission (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove rear crossmember.
Fig. 5 Rear Mount Components (YJ Shown)
JAX 4/5 MANUAL TRANSMISSION 21 - 3

generally happens when the container delivery mech-
anism is improperly calibrated. Always check the lu-
bricant level after filling to avoid an under fill
condition.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level; use a drive-on hoist to en-
sure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a
minute or so before checking. These recommenda-
tions will ensure an accurate check and avoid an un-
der-or-overfill condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants, compo-
nent damage, incorrect clutch adjustment, or by a
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc.
Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear, shift
rail, synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes un-
detected for an extended period, the first indications
of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise.
Incorrect or contaminated lubricants can also con-
tribute to hard shifting. The consequence of using
non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is a frequent cause of hard
shifting. Incorrect adjustment or a worn, damagedpressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced, gear clash during
shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or re-
built transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases, this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise during
normal operation. Rotating gears can generate a mild
whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe, obviously audible transmission noise is
generally the result of a lubricant problem. Insuffi-
cient, improper, or contaminated lubricant can pro-
mote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails, forks
and bearings. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission into first or third gear.
(2) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect necessary exhaust system components.
(4) Support transmission with adjustable jack stand.
(5) Disconnect rear cushion and mounting bracket
from transmission, or transfer case (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 Rear Mount Components (YJ Shown)
JAX 15 MANUAL TRANSMISSION 21 - 35