length MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-3
3-19mm, as well as a % in. or ~/a in. spark plug careful when using them, as they can change
socket (depending on plug type). the amount of torque applied to the socket.
-if possible, buy various length socket drive
l Jackstands for support.
extensions. Universal-joint and wobble ex- l Oil filter wrench.
tensions can be extremely useful, but be l Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
l Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless
your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fit-
tings-for details, please refer to information on Flu-
ids and Lubricants, later in this section).
l Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless
equiooed with a sealed, maintenance-free batten/).
In addition to the above items there are several O’ A container for draining oil and other fluids.
l Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.
pi 1 others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to
have around. These include Oil Dry@ (or an equiva-
lent oil absorbent gravel-such as cat litter) and the
usual SUDDIV of lubricants. antifreeze and fluids. al-
though the.& can be purchased as needed. This is a
basic list for routine maintenance, but only your per-
sonal needs and desire can accurately determine your
Fig. 1 Ail but the most basic procedures
After performing a few projects on the vehicle,
you’ll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on
lWSl2U2 Fig, 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of
jackstands are essential for lifting and sup
porting the vehicle tm1204 Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and ptybars
are great tools to have in your toolbox
Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, us-
ing specialized brake tools will save time
Fig. 11 inductive type timing light

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENAiCE I-7
POZIDRIVE PHILLIPS RECESS
TORX@
CLUTCH RECESS
INDENTED HEXAGON HEXAGON TRIMMED HEXAGON WASHER HEAD
tccs1037
Fig. 20 Here are a few of the most common screw/bolt driver styles
GRADE 8 MADE 2 GRADE 5 QRADE 8 GRADE 7 WADE 0 ALLEN CARRIAGE
NUTS
Q e
PUIN JAM CASTLE
(CASTELLATED) SELF-LOCKINQ
SPEED
FILLISTER
LOCKWASHERS
4% 43 Q c3
INTERNAL EXTERNAL SPLIT PLAIN
Toonl
TQonl
STUD
Fig. 21 There are many different types of threaded retainers found on vehicles
In all cases, be absolutely sure you have selected
the proper replacement. Don’t be shy, you can always
ask the store clerk for helo.
Be aware that when you find a bolt with dam-
aged threads, you may also find the nut or
drilled hole it was threaded into has also
been damaged. If this is the case, you may
have to drill and tap the hole, replace the nut
or otherwise repair the threads. NEVER try to
force a replacement bolt to fit into the dam-
aaed threads.
Torque is defined as the measurement of resis-
.
tance to turning or rotating. It tends to twist a body
about an axis of rotation. A common example of this
would be tightening a threaded retainer such as a nut,
bolt or screw. Measuring torque is one of the most
common ways to help assure that a threaded retainer
has been properly fastened.
When tightening a threaded fastener, torque is ap-
plied in three distinct areas, the head, the bearing
surface and the clamp load. About 50 percent of the
measured torque is used in overcoming bearing fric-
tion This is the friction between the bearing surface of the bolt head, screw head or nut face
and the base
material or washer (the surface on which the fastener
is rotating). Approximately 40 percent of the applied
torque is used in overcoming thread friction. This
leaves only about 10 percent of the applied torque to
develop a useful clamp load (the force which holds a
joint together). This means that friction can account
for as much as 90 percent of the applied torque on a
fastener.
TORQUE WRENCHES
ti See Figures 24 and 25
In most applications, a torque wrench can be used
to assure proper installation of a fastener. Torque
wrenches come in various designs and most auto-
motive supply stores will carry a variety to suit your
needs. A torque wrench should be used any time we
supply a specific torque value for a fastener. A torque
wrench can also be used if you are following the gen-
eral guidelines In the accompanying charts. Keep in
mind that because there is no worldwide standardiza-
tion of fasteners, the charts are a general guideline
A - Length
B - Diameter (major diameter)
C - Threads per inch or mm
D - Thread length
E - Size of the wrench required
F - Root diameter (minor diameter)
IccSlO3l
Fig. 22 Threaded retainer sizes are deter
mined using these measurements
E - DCTERNAL tm1016 Yg. 23 Special fasteners such as these
font@’ head bolts are used by manufactur-
?rs to discourage people from working on
rehicles without the proper tools

.
l-8 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
tccsio15 Fig. 24 Various styles of torque wrenches
are usually available at your local automo-
tive supply store
and should be used with caution. Again, the general
rule of “if you are using the right tool for the job, you
should not have to strain to tighten a fastener” ap-
plies here.
Beam Type
# See Figure 26
The beam type torque wrench is one of the most
popular types. It consists of a pointer attached to the
head that runs the length of the flexible beam (shaft)
to a scale located near the handle. As the wrench is
pulled, the beam bends and the pointer indicates the
torque using the scale.
Click (Breakaway) Type
$ See Figure 27
Another popular design of torque wrench IS the
click type. To use the click type wrench you pre-ad-
just it to a torque setting. Once the torque is reached,
the wrench has a reflex signaling feature that causes
a momentary breakaway of the torque wrench body,
sending an impulse to the operator’s hand.
Pivot Head Type
# See Figure 27 and 28
Some torque wrenches (usually of the click type)
may be equipped with a pivot head which can allow it
to be used in areas of limited access. BUT, it must be
used properly. To hold a pivot head wrench, grasp
the handle lightly, and as you pull on the handle, it
should be floated on the pivot point. If the handle
comes in contact with the yoke extension during the
process of pulling, there is a very good chance the
torque readings will be inaccurate because this could
alter the wrench loading point. The design of the han-
dle is usually such as to make it inconvenient to de-
liberately misuse the wrench.
*It should be mentioned that the use of any
U-joint, wobble or extension will have an ef-
fect on the torque readings, no matter what
type of wrench you are using. For the most
accurate readings, install the socket directly
on the wrench driver. If necessary, straight
extensions (which hold a socket directly un-
der the wrench driver) will have the least ef-
fect on the torque reading. Avoid any exten-
sion that alters the length of the wrench from
the handle to the head/driving point (such as
a crow’s foot). U-joint or wobble extensions
can greatly affect the readings; avoid their
use at all times.
U.S. Bolts
UEonlr
Iy*
lU2 5 tw7
I*cll*olwu
Q c
tbqn2lamlu
am~mkr. @ 63
HaaIm Toqw mdmuo TORW
(h&l!&, RA&. m 111 R./U. If410 lm m TolqW
R.Abs.
I(n Hm
'I4 - 20 i 0.7 68 8 1.1 10.8 10 1.4 13.5
-28 08 8.1 10 1.4 13.6
%s-18 11 1.5 14.9 17 2.3 23.0 19 2.6 25.8
-24 13 1.8 17.6 19 2.6 25.7
S-16 18 2.5 24.4 31 4.3 42.0 34 4.7 46.0
-24 20 2.75 27.1 35 4.8 47.5
%s-14 28 3.8 37.0 49 8.8 66.4 55 7.6 74.5
-20 30 42 40.7 55 7.6 74.5
'h-13 39 5.4 52.8 75 10.4 101.7 85 11.75 115.2
-20 41 5.7 55.6 85 117 115.2
'h-12 51 7.0 69.2 110 15.2 149.1 120 16.6 162.7
-18 55 7.6 74.5 120 16.6 162.7
H-11 83 11.5 112.5 150 20.7 203.3 167 23.0 226.5
-18 95 13.1 128.8 170 23.5 230.5
s-10 105 14.5 142.3 270 37.3 366.0 280 36.7 379.6
-16 115 15.9 155.9 295 40.8 400.0
VD- 9 160 2.: 216.9 395 54.6 535.5 440 60.9 596.5
-14 175 237.2 435 80.1 589.7
l- 6 iti 32.5 318.6 lE 81.6 799.9 660 91.3 894.8
-14 34.6 338.9 91.3 849.8
Metric Bolts
4.6,4.8 8.8
c
@ w
mm04 iEn% (nnr) I*rdn*lrTwlr rullllllnl~
RJU.
I(n llm RAk
m mu
6x1.0 2-3 2-.4 3-4 3-6 4-.8 5-8
8x 1.25 6-8 .6-l 8-12 9-14 12-1.9 13-19
10X1.25 12-17 1.5-2.3 16-23 20-29 2.7-4.0 27-39
12x125 21-32 2.9-4.4 29-43 35-53 4.8-7.3 47-72
14x 1.5 35-52 4.8-7.1 48-70 57-65 7.8-11.7 77-110
16x 1.5 51-77 7.0-10.6 67-100 90-120 12.4-16.5 130-W
18x 1.5 74-110 10.2-15.1 100-150 130-170 17.9-23.4 MO-230
20x 1.5 llO-140 15.1-19.3 150-190 190-240 26.2-46.9 160-320
22x 1.5 150-190 22.0-26.2 200-260 250-320 34.5-44.1 340-430
24x 1.5 190-240 26.2-48.9 260-320 310-410 42.7-56.5 420-550
lccs1098 :ig. 25 Standard and metric bolt torque specifications based on bolt strengths-WARNING:
Ise only as a guide
1
PIVOTEO HANDLE
BEAU OR MEASURING ELEMENT
Yg. 26 Example of a beam type torque wrench . tccslo3~

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-9
Fig. 27 A click type or breakaway torque
wrench-note that this one has a pivoting
head
v
WRONG WRONG
PIVOTED HANDLE TOR(IUE WRENCH tccS1041 Fig. 28 Torque wrenches with pivoting
heads must be grasped and used properly
to prevent an incorrect reading
Rigid Case (Direct Reading)
# See Figure 29
A rigid case or direct reading torque wrench is
equipped with a dial indicator to show torque values.
One advantage of these wrenches is that they can be
held at any position on the wrench without affecting
accuracy. These wrenches are often preferred be-
cause they tend to be compact, easy to read and have
a great degree of accuracy.
lccs1042 Fig. 29 The rigid case (direct reading)
torque wrench uses a dial indicator to show
torque
TORQUEANGLEMETERS
# See Figure 30
Because the frictional characteristics of each fas-
tener or threaded hole will vary, clamp loads which
are based strictly on torque will vary as well. In most
applications, this variance IS not significant enough
to cause worry. But, in certain applications, a manu-
facturers engineers may determine that more precise
clamp loads are necessary (such is the case with :ig. 30 Some specifications require the use
rf a torque angle meter (mechanical pro.
ractor)
many aluminum cylinder heads). In these cases, a
torque angle method of installation would be speci-
fied. When installing fasteners which are torque angle
tightened, a predetermined seating torque and stan- dard torque wrench are usually used first to remove
any compliance from the joint. The fastener is then
tightened the specified additional portion of a turn
measured in degrees. A torque angle gauge (mechan-
ical protractor) is used for these applications.
) See Figure 31
Throughout this manual, specifications are given to
help you determine the condition of various compo-
nents on your vehicle, or to assist you in their installa-
tion. Some of the most common measurements in-
clude length (in. or cm/mm), torque (ft. Ibs., inch Ibs.
or Nm) and pressure (psi, in. Hg, kPa or mm Hg). In
most cases, we strive to provide the proper measure-
ment as determined by the manufacturers engineers.
Though, in some cases, that value may not be con-
veniently measured with what is available in your
toolbox. Luckily, many of the measuring devices
CONVERSION FACTORS
LENGTH-DISTANCE Inches (I”.) x 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) x .0394 = Inches
Feet (ft.) x ,305
= Meters (m) x 3.281 = Feet
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometers (km) x .0621
= Miles
VOLUME Cubic Inches (in3) x 16.387 = Cubic Centimeters x .061 = in3
IMP Pints (IMP pt.) x .568 = Liters (L) x 1.76
= IMP pt.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt.) x 1.137 = Liters (L) x .88 = IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) x 4.546 = Liters (L) 7, .22
= IMP gal.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt ) x 1.201 = US Quarts (US qt.) x ,833 = IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) x 1.201
= US Gallons (US gal.) x ,833
= IMP gal.
Fl. Ounces x 29.573 = Millihters x 034
= Ounces
us Pints (Us pt.) x ,473 = Liters (L) x 2.113 = Pints
US Quarts (US qt.) x .946 = Liters (L) x 1.057
= Quarts
US Gallons (US gal.) x 3.785 = Liters (L) x ,264 = Gallons
MASS-WEIGHT
Ounces (oz.) x 28.35
= Grams (g) x ,035
= Ounces
Pounds (lb ) x ,454 = Kdograms (kg) x 2.205
= Pounds
PRESSURE ’ Pounds Per Sq. In. (psi) x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x ,145 = psi
Inches of Mercury (Hg) x .4912
= psi x 2.036 = Hg
Inches of Mercury (Hg) x 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa) x .2961
= Hg
Inches of Water (H,O)
x .07355 = Inches of Mercury x 13 783 = H,O
Inches of Water (H,O) x .03613 = psi x 27.684
= Hz0
Inches of Water (H,O) x ,248
= Kilopascals (kPa) x4026
= H,O
TORQUE Pounds-Force Inches (in-lb)
x ,113 = Newton Meters (N.m) x 8.85 = in-lb
Pounds-Force Feet (ft-lb)
x 1.356 = Newton Meters (N*m) x ,738 = ft-lb
VELOCITY Miles Per Hour (MPH)
x 1.609 = Kilometers Per Hour (KPH) x .621 = MPH POWER Horsepower (Hp) x ,745 = Kdowatts x 1.34
= Horsepower FUEL CONSUMPTION’ Mdes Per Gallon IMP (MPG) x .354
= Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
x 2.352 = IMP MPG
Miles Per Gallon US (MPG) x ,425
= Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kdometers Per Liter (Km/L) x 2.352
= US MPG
*It 1s common to covert from miles per gallon (mpg) to hters/lOO kilometers (l/100 km), where mpg (IMP) x l/ID0 km
= 282 and mpg (US) x l/lo0 km = 235.
TEMPERATURE Degree Fahrenheit CF) = (“C x 1.8) + 32
Degree Celsms (‘C)
= CF - 32) x 56
tccsio4d
Fig. 31 Standard and metric conversion factors chart

l
1-18 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
the clamps and remove the cables, negative cable
first. On batteries with posts on top, the use of a
puller specially made for this purpose is recom-
mended. These are inexoensive and available in most alternator or turn the adjusting bolt to adjust belt ten-
sion. Once the desired value is reached, secure the
bolt or locknut and recheck tension.
d”t” lJdlL> X”lt;>. 31°C LtXlllllldl lJdllt2)’ MLJIC, dlt’ X- cured with a small bolt. ST& I REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal I
with a wire brush, until all corrosion, grease, etc., is
removed and the metal is shinv. It is esneciallv imnnr-
tant to c
knife is useful nere), since a smart
material or oxidation there will pre Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal
with a wire brush, until all corrosion, grease, etc., is
removed and the metal is shiny. It is especially impor-
tant to clean the inside of the clamp thoroughly (an old
knife is useful here), since a small deposit of foreign
material or oxidation there will prevent a sound electri-
cal connection and inhibit either starting or charging.
Special tools are available for cleaning these parts,
one type for conventional top post batteries and an-
other type for side terminal batteries. It is also a good
idea to apply some dielectric grease to the terminal, as
this will aid in the prevention of corrosion,
After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall
the cables, negative cable last; DO NOT hammer the
clamps onto battery posts. Tighten the clamps se-
curely, but do not distort them. Give the clamps and
terminals a thin external coating of grease after in-
stallation, to retard corrosion.
Check the cables at the same time that the terminals
are cleaned. If the cable insulation is cracked or bro-
ken, or if the ends are frayed, the cable should be re-
placed with a new cable of the same length and gauge.
CHARGING
the cables, negative cable last; DO NOT hammer the
curely, but do not distort them. Give the clamps and
terminals a thin external coating of grease after in-
stallation, to retard corrosion.
Check the cables at the same time that the terminals
are cleaned. If the cable insulation is cracked or bro-
ken, or if the ends are frayed, the cable should be re-
placed with a new cable of the same length and aauae.
CHARGING
Fig. 62 mere are typically 3 types of ac-
cessory drive belts found on vehicles today 1. Loosen the alternator support nut.
2. Loosen the adjuster lock bolt.
3. Rotate the adjuster bolt counter clockwise to
I .I , . . . * . .
I Tn i”et*ll* Fig. 62 There are typically 3 types of ac-
Fig. 64 Deep cracks in this belt will cause
flex, building up heat that will eventually 11, 1.8L, 2.OL and 2.4L Engines
cal connection and inhibit either starting or charging.
Special tools are available for cleaning these parts,
one type for conventional top post batteries and an-
other type for side terminal batterin, I+ if QI@* 3 nnnd
idea to apply some dielectric grr
this will aid in the prevention of ,,vIIuaIUII.
After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall 1.5L, 1.6
AL TERNA TOR BE1 T
e See Figures 67,68, and 69
1. Loosen the alternator support nut.
2. Loosen the adjuster lock bolt.
3. Rotate the adjuster bolt counter clockwise to
release the tension on the belt.
4. Remove the belt.
To install:
5. Install the belt on the pulleys.
6. Rotate the adjuster bolt clockwise until the
proper tension is reached.
7. Tighten the adjuster lock bolt and the alternator
support nut.
POWER STEERING BELT
8 See Figures 70 and 71
1. Remove the alternator belt as described above.
2. Loosen the power steering pump adjusting
bolts.
3. Remove the power steering oumo fixed bolt on
R Rntatn the cxiillrtm hnit A&+,& until the r -r- .- .- ._.. ._ .______
7. Tighten the adjuster lock bolt and the alternator
support nut.
POWER STEERING BELT
1 ..“‘.I ““..Y...Y up II”“. ..IU. ..m.*
1 lead to belt failure V.
I
I
The chemical reaction which takes place in - 1 the rear of the bracket.
4. Rotate the pump toward the engine and remove
the belt.
all batteries generates explosive hydrogen
gas. A spark can cause the battery to explode
and splash acid. To avoid serious personal
injury, be sure there is proper ventilation and
take appropriate fire safety precautions when
connecting, disconnecting, or charging a bat-
tery and when using jumper cables. To fnstall:
5. Install the belt on the pulleys.
A battery should be charged at a slow rate to keep
the plates inside from getting too hot. However, if
some maintenance-free batteries are allowed to dis-
charge until they are almost “dead,” they may have to
be charged at a high rate to bring them back to “life.”
Always follow the charger manufacturers instructions
on charging the battery. 85 The cover of this belt ex-
Fig. is worn,
REPLACEMENT
When it becomes necessary to reolace thn haeoN
‘” yyL’“‘J’ I or oreMer
select one with an amperage rating equal tc .
a ----
than the battery originally installed. Deterioration and
just plain aging of the battery cables, starter motor,
and associated wires makes the battery’s job harder
in successive years. The slow increase in electrical
resistance over time makes it prudent to install a new
battery with a greater capacity than the old. 1 Fig. 67 Loosen the adjuster lock bolt . . .
I ‘-
I -. -_ tm1217 Fig. 66 Installing too wide a belt can resylt
in serious belt wear and/or breakage
the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive
belts should be replaced immediately. It is best to re-
place all drive belts at one time, as a preventive
uring this service operation. maintenance measure, d
- ADJUSTMENT : *
INSPECTION Excessive belt tension will cause damage to the al-
e See Figures 62, 83, 64, 65, and 88
Inspect the belts for signs of glazing or cracking. A
glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage,
while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric
visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of pulley bearings, while, on
It tension will
Droduce slin ternator and water pump
the other hand, loose be
r ------ r
and premature wear on the belt. Therefore, be sure to
adjust the belt tension to the proper level.
To
adjust the tension ’ ’ ’ ” ’ ‘* adjusting bolt or fixing b
alternator bracket or tens on a onve Den. loosen me I Fig. 68 . . . then
from the engine remove the alternator
bolt locknut on the alternator,
iion pulley. Then move the

.
l-20 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
INSPECTION
# See Figures 74 thru 81
All engines covered by this manual utilize timing
belts to drive the camshaft from the crankshafts turn-
ing motion and to maintain proper valve timing.
Some manufacturers schedule periodic timing belt
replacement to assure optimum engine performance,
to make sure the motorist is never stranded should
the belt break (as the engine will stop instantly) and
for some (manufacturers with interference motors) to
prevent the possibility of severe internal engine dam-
age
St10Ula the Delt break. Although the 1.5L and 1.8L engines are not listed
as an interference motors (it is not listed by the man-
ufacturer as a motor whose valves might contact the
pistons if the camshaft was rotated separately from
the crankshaft) the first 2 reasons for periodic re-
placement still apply and the timing belt should be
replaced at 60,000 miles (96,000 km). The 1.6L,
2.01,2.4L, 3.OL, and 35L engines are listed as inter-
ference motors, so the timing belt MUST be replaced
at 60,000 miles (96,000 km) to avoid severe engine
damage if the belt should break.
But whether or not you decide to replace the tim-
ing belt in the manufacturers schedule, you would be
wise to check it periodically to make sure it has not
become damaged or worn. Generally speaking, a se-
verelv worn belt mav cause enaine oerformance to
drop~dramatically, but a damaged belt (which could
give out suddenly) may not give as much warning. In
general, any time the engine timing cover(s) is (are)
removed you should inspect the belt for premature
parting, severe cracks or missing teeth. Also, an ac-
cess plug is provided in the upper portion of the tim-
ing cover so that camshaft timing can be checked
without cover removal. If timing is found to be off,
cover removal and further belt inspection or replace-
ment is necessary.
tml245 Fig. 76 look for noticeable cracks or wear
on the belt face
_
For the timing belt removal and installation proce-
dure, please refer to Section 3 of this manual. Fig. 74 Check for premature parting of the
belt
INSPECTION
. 75 Check if the teeth are cracked or
fig. 77 You may only have damage on one
side of the belt; if so, the guide could be
the culprit
b See Figures 82,8S, 84, and 85 .
Upper and lower radiator hoses, along with the
heater hoses, should be checked for deterioration,
leaks and loose hose clamps at least every 30,000
miles (48,000 km). It is also wise to check the hoses
periodically in early spring and at the beginning of
the fall or winter when you are performing other
maintenance. A quick visual inspection could dis-
cover a weakened hose which might have left you
stranded if it had remained unrepaired.
Whenever you are checking the hoses, make sure
the engine and cooling system are cold. Visually in-
spect for cracking, rotting or collapsed hoses, and w-
place as necessary. Run your hand along the length
of the hose. If a weak or swollen spot is noted when
squeezing the hose wall, the hose should be re- Fig. 78 Foreign materials can get in be- Fig. 79 Inspect the timing belt for c
tween the teeth and cause damage fraying, glazing or damage of any kind
Fig. 80 Damage on only one side of the tim-
I I Fig. 81 ALWAYS replace the timing belt at
ing belt may indicate a faulty guide
the interval specified by the manufacturer
, L placed.

l-24 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
b%slZl2 Fig. 97 A variety of tools and gauges are
needed for spark plug service tm2903 Fig. 98 Checking the spark plug @au with a tccs2904 feeler gauge. - Fig. 99 Adjusting the spark plug gap
ig. 100 If the standard plug Is in good con-
ftlon, the electrode may be filed flat- the two ends. Take the length and multiply it by 6,000
to achieve the maximum resistance allowable in each
wire, resistance should not exceed this value. If resis-
tance does exceed this value, replace the wire.
*Whenever the high tension wires are re- ’
moved from the plugs, coil, or distributor,
silicone grease must be applied to the boot
before reconnection. Coat the entire Interior
surface with a suitable silicone grease.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figures 90,103 and 104
1. Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
2. If eouiooed, remove the center cover from the
WARNING: do not file platinum plugs
valve covei.
3. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of
should go through easily, while the larger one its routing.
I’ shouldn’t go through at all. Wire gapping tools usu-
ally have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust
the side electrode until the proper distance is ob-
tained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center
electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side elec- *Don’t rely on wiring diagrams or sketches
for spark plug wire routing. Improper
arrangement of spark plug wires will induce
voltage between wires, causing misfiring
and surging. Be careful to arrange spark plug
wires properly.
4. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the
spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from
the coil pack or distributor cap.
To install:
5. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the olc
wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
6. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielec-
tric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make
sure the wire snaps into place.
a 7. Route the wire in the exact path as the original
nd connect the wire to the spark plug.
8. Repeat the process for each remaining wire,
iorking from the longest wire to the shortest.
9. Install the air cleaner inlet tube.
trode too far or too often as it may weaken and break
off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylin-
der head to retrieve it.
TESTING
# See Figures 191 and 102
At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the
spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the in-
sulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the dis-
tributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged wiring.
Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the
resistance of the wires should be checked with an
ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause
misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to start in
damp weather.
To check resistance, an ohmmeter should be used ’
on each wire to test resistance between the end con-
nectors. Remove and install/replace the wires in or- ’
der, one-by-one.
Resistance on these wires should be 4,000-6,000
ohms per foot. To properly measure this, remove the
wires from the plugs and the coil pack. Do not pierce
any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from Fig. 103 Remove the spark plug wires from
tcG1009 Fig. 102 Checking individual plug wire re-
sistance with a digital ohmmeter
Fig. 104 Remove the plug wires from the
wire dividers

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-25
osen the distributor cap retain-
Fig. 106. . . then remove the cap from the
distributor
Fig. 107 Grasp the rotor and pull it straight
off of the distributor shaft
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
*Depending on the reason for removing the
distributor cap, it may make more sense to Fig. 108 The rotor must be aligned correctly
to the distributor shaft before installation
other physical damage. Make sure the distributor
cap’s center button is free of damage. Check the cap
terminals for dirt or corrosion. Always check the rotor
blade and spring closely for damage. Replace any
comoonents where damaae is found.
smmE
ALGNME
LOCATOR
b See Figures 105,106,107, and 108 GENERAL INFORMATION
b See Figures 111 and 112
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of
crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark
plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in
degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the
compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be
ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes
I 1 COMBUSTION
ENDS 23’ ATDC
SPEED INCREASES
9ir&1$?6
Fig. 111 Advancing the ignition timing
’
CCURS
COMBUSTION
DC
ENDS 23 ATDC
3. Remove the distributor cap retaining screws or
clips and remove the cap from the distributor.
4. Note its installed position, then remove the ro-
tor from the distributor shaft. leave the spark plug wires attached. This is
handy if you are testing spark plug wires, or
if removal is necessary to access other com-
ponents, and wire length allows you to repo-
sition the cap out of the way.
2. Label and disconnect the spark plug wires
from the distributor cao.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
INSPECTION
u See Figures 109 and 110
9mg27
After removing the distributor cap and rotor, clean
the components (both inside and outside of the cap)
using soap and water. If compressed air is available,
carefully dry the components (wearing safety gog-
gles) or allow the parts to air dry. You can dry them
with a clean, soft cloth, but don’t leave any lint or
moisture behind.
Once the cap and rotor have been thoroughly Inspection points for the dis Fig. 112 Retarding the tgnttion timing
cleaned, check for cracks, carbon tracks, burns or

.
l-30 GENERAL'INFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
n Pylon@ inserts, the clip
be removed prior to siidi then the insert can be re
After installing the replacement
strip and pull up while twisting counterclockwise.
The backing strip will snap out of the retaining tab.
Do this for the remaining tabs until the refill is free of
the blade. The length of these refills is molded into
the end and they should be replaced with identical
types. cate the front end is out of alignment or that the tires
are out of balance.
TIRE ROTATION
# See Figures 137 and 138
Tires must be rotated periodically to equalize wear
patterns that vary with a tire’s position on the vehicle.
Tires will also wear in an uneven way as the front
1 Fin 1% Tha Trinlarlna@
cle might have any kind. Aftermarket blades and arms
rarely use the exact same type blade or refill as the
original equipment. Here are some typiel aftermarket
blades; not all may be available for your vehicle:
The Anco@ type uses a release button that is
pushed down to allow the refill to slide out of the
yoke jaws. The new refill slides back into the frame
,
and locks in place.
Some Trico@ refills are removed by locating where
the metal backing strip or the refill is wider. Insert a
small screwdriver blade between the frame and metal
backing strip. Press down to release the refill from
the retaining tab.
Other types of Trico@’ refills have two metal tabs
which are unlocked by squeezing them together. The
rubber filler can then be withdrawn from the frame
iaws. A new refill is installed bv insertina the refill lowed to touch the olass steering/suspension system wears to the point where
the alianment should be reset.
# See Figure 138
Common sense and good driving habits will af-
ford maximum tire life. Fast starts, sudden stops
and hard cornering are hard on tires and will
shorten their useful life span. Make sure that you
don’t overload the vehicle or run with incorrect
pressure in the tires. Both of these practices will in-
crease tread wear.
*For optimum tire life, keep the fires prop
eriy inflated, rotate them often and have the
wheel alignment checked periodically.
Inspect your tires frequently. Be especially care-
ful to watch for bubbles in the tread or sidewall,
deep cuts or underinflation. Replace any tires with
bubbles in the sidewall. If cuts are so deep that they
penetrate to the cords, discard the tire. Any cut in
the sidewall of a radial tire renders it unsafe. Also
look for uneven tread wear patterns that may indi- Rotating the tires will ensure maximum life for the
tires as a set, so you will not have to discard a tire
early due to wear on only part of the tread. Regular
DIRECTIONAL TIRES DIRECTIONAL TIRES
jnto the front frame jaws and &ding it rearward to
engage the remaining frame jaws. There are usually
four jaws; be certain when installing that the refill is
engaged in all of them. At the end of its travel, the
tabs will lock into place on the front jaws of the wiper
blade frame.
Another type of refill is made from polycarbonate.
The refill has a simple locking device at one end
which flexes downward out of the groove into which
the jaws of the holder fit, allowing easy release. By
sliding the new refill through all the jaws and push-
ing through the slight resistance when it reaches the
end of its travel, the refill will lock into position.
To replace the Tridon@ refill, it is necessary to re-
move the wiper blade. This refill has a plastic backing
strip with a notch about 1 in. (25mm) from the end.
Hold the blade (frame) on a hard surface so that the
frame is tightly bowed. Grip the tip of the backing Fig. 138 A label with information concern-
ing the tires is typically located on one of
the door pillars
tion”

.
1-32 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
CONDITION
EFFECT
CAUSE
CORRECTION UNDER-INFLATION
EXCESSIVE SPEED’ WORN OR OUT-
OF-ALIGNMENT
ADJUST PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS WHEN
TIRES ARE COOL
ROTATE TIRES
/ BALANCE WHEELS INSPECT SUSPENSION
HAVE TIRE INSPECTED FOR FURTHER USE.
lCCSi267 ig. 144 Common tire wear patterns and causes
1~~~1265 Fig. 145 Tread wear indicators will appear
when the tire is worn
inflation, do not drive more than a mile before check-
ing. A cold tire is generally one that has not been dri-
ven for more than three hours.
A plate or sticker is normally provided somewhere
in the vehicle (door post, hood, tailgate or trunk lid)
which shows the proper pressure for the tires. Never
counteract excessive pressure build-up by bleeding
off air pressure (letting some air out). This will cause
the tire to run hotter and wear quicker.
Never exceed the maximum tire pressure
embossed on the tire! This is the pressure to
be used when the tire is at maximum load-
ing, but it is rarely the correct pressure for
everyday driving. Consult the owner’s man-
ual or the tire pressure sticker for the correct
tire pressure.
Once you’ve maintained the correct tire pressures
for several weeks, you’ll be familiar with the vehicle’s
braking and handling personality. Slight adjustments
in tire pressures can fine-tune these characteristics,
1~~~1264 Fig. 146 Accurate tread depth indicators are
inexuensive and handv
Fig. 147 A penny works well for a quick
check of tread death
but never change the cold pressure specification by
more than 2 psi. A slightly softer tire pressure will
give a softer ride but also yield lower fuel mileage. A
slightly harder tire will give crisper dry road handling
but can cause skidding on wet surfaces. Unless
you’re fully attuned to the vehicle, stick to the recom-
mended inflation pressures.
All tires made since 1968 have built-in tread wear
indicator bars that show up as j/2 in. (13mm) wide
smooth bands across the bre when V,~ in. (1.5mm) of
tread remains. The appearance of tread wear indica-
tors means that the tires should be replaced. In fact,
many states have laws prohibiting the use of tires
with less than this amount of tread.
You can check your own tread depth with an inex-
pensive gauge or by using a Lincoln head penny.
Shp the Lrncoln penny (with Lincoln’s head upside- down) into several tread grooves. If you can see the
top of Lincoln’s head in 2 adjacent grooves, the tire
has less than V,~ in. (1.5mm) tread left and should be
replaced. You can measure snow tires in the same
manner by using the “tails” side of the Lincoln
penny. If you can see the top of the Lincoln memor-
ial, its time to replace the snow tire(s).
CAREOFSPECIALWHEELS
If you have invested money in magnesium, alu-
minum alloy or sport wheels, special precautions
should be taken to make sure your investment is not
wasted and that your special wheels look good for the
life of the vehicle.
Special wheels are easily damaged and/or
scratched. Occasionally check the rims for cracking,
impact damage or air leaks. If any of these are found,
replace the wheel. But in order to prevent this type of
damage and the costly replacement of a special
wheel, observe the following precautions:
l Use extra care not to damage the wheels dur-
ing removal, installation, balancing, etc. After re-
moval of the wheels from the vehicle, place them on a
mat or other protective surface. If they are to be
stored for any length of time, support them on strips
of wood. Never store tires and wheels upright; the
tread may develop flat spots.
l When driving, watch for hazards; it doesn’t take
much to crack a wheel.
l When washing, use a mild soap or non-abra-
sive dish detergent (keeping in mind that detergent
tends to remove wax). Avoid cleansers with abrasives
or the use of hard brushes. There are many cleaners
and polishes for special wheels.
l If possrble, remove the wheels during the win-
ter. Salt and sand used for snow removal can se-
verely damage the finish of a wheel.
l Make certain the recommended lug nut torque
is never exceeded or the wheel may crack. Never use
snow chains on special wheels; severe scratching
will occur.