steering NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Owner's Guide

Steering — Part 3 155
(4) Support the rack carefully and lever back the
tabs of the ball housing lock washers. To prevent
damage to the steering gear, avoid any impact to the
steering rack.
(5) Holding the rack with an adjustable spanner,
unscrew the ball housings from the rack using a
Stillsons wrench. Remove and discard the lock wash-
ers. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Install the new lock washer to the
rack,
ensuring that the lockwasher tangs are located in the
rack end. (2) Install the ball housing as semblies to the rack.
Tighten the ball housings to the specified torque and
secure by bending the lock washer. (3) Before installing the rubber boots ensure that
the vent holes, located towards each end of the rack
near the ball housings, are clear. If necessary clear the
hole with a suitable probe. (4) Apply sealant to the la rge end of the rubber
boot and grease to the small end. and install the boots,
being careful not to damage or twist them. Secure the boots with the clamps and clip
s ensuring that the clips
are facing downwards.

(5) Install the t i e rod end locknuts and tie rod
ends to the t i e rod. Install the t i e rod ends the same
number of turns noted on removal. Tighten the lock-
nuts to the specified torque.

Install the power steerin g gear assembly to the
vehicle as described under the previous heading and
bleed the system as described under the heading In
Car Adjustments, Checks and Minor Repairs.

TO RENEW RUBBER BOOTS
The procedure to renew the rubber boots is fully
covered in the Manual Steering section under the
Steering Gear Assembly heading.

TO RENEW TIE ROD ENDS
The procedure to renew the t i e rod ends is fully
covered in the Manual Steering section under the
Steering Gear Assembly heading.

156
FRONT SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type.................. Independent MacPherson strut with
coil springs and control arms
Shock absorber .................. Hydraulic, non-repairable
Hub bearing end float (maximum) ............. 0.05 mm
Ball joint axial play (maximum) ....................0.7 mm
Ball joint turning torque (used)...............0.5-4.9 Nm
Wheel alignment:
Toe in ..................................................... 0-2 mm
Camber ........................................- 0 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
Caster ..............................................1 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
King pin inclination..................... 1 3 ° 5 5 ' ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub bearing nut..................................... 196-235 Nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle nut ...... 118 Nm
Suspension unit to body nuts ......................... 29 Nm
Piston rod nut .................................................. 72 Nm
Brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts ........... 52 Nm
Ball joint to steering knuckle bolt ................... 86 Nm
Control arm bracket bolts ............................... 98 Nm
Control arm pivot bolt ................................ 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar link nuts..................................... 44 Nm
Stabiliser bar bracket bolts .............................. 21 Nm
1. FRONT SUSPENSION TROUBLE
SHOOTING

FRONT END NOISE
(1) Loose upper suspension mounting or piston
rod: Tighten the mounting or piston rod nuts. (2) Loose or worn suspension unit lower ball
joint: Tighten or renew the lower ball joint.
(3) Noise in the suspension unit: Renew the
faulty suspension unit, preferably in pairs.
(4) Worn or loose steering gear: Overhaul the
steering gear assembly. (5) Worn front hub bearings: Renew the hub
bearings:
(6) Loose or defective stab ilizer bar, control arm
or mountings: Check, tighten or renew the mounting
rubbers.

Check the ball joints for wear and deterioration.
(7) Worn stabilizer bar link ball joints: Renew
the stabilizer bar links.
(8) Drive shafts worn or insufficiently lubri-
cated: Check the lubricant and the dust boots and
renew as necessary. (9) Drive shaft splines in the hub or the
differential worn or dama ged: Check and renew as
necessary.

NOTE: To check the front suspension com-
ponents for wear, raise the front of the
vehicle, support it on chassis stands and
allow both front wheel to hang free. With an
assistant pushing and pulling the front
wheels in and out at the top and then at the
bottom, check for excessive looseness at the
front hub bearings and lower control arm
inner pivot bushes. Noise or vibration in the
front end can also be caused by excessive
tire or wheel unbalance. Drive shaft joint
noise is usually more pronounced when
moving slowly with the steering on full lock.

POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING
ABILITY

(1) Low or uneven tire pressures: Inflate the
tires to the recommended pressures.

(2) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
unit, preferably in pairs.

Front Suspension 157


Check the stabilizer bar links for wear and damage.
(3) Incorrect front end alignment: Check and
adjust the alignment as necessary. (4) Defective stabilizer bar mounting rubbers or
worn link ball joints: Renew component as necessary. (5) Weak or broken front coil spring: Renew
both springs as a matching pair. (6) Broken or weak rear coil spring: Renew both
springs as matching pair. (7) Drive shaft bent or distorted: Check and
renew as necessary. (8) Tie rod end worn or damaged: Check and
renew as necessary.
(9) Control arm ball joint worn or damaged:
Check and renew as necessary.
(10) Control arm mounting bolts loose: Tighten
the control arm bolts. (11) Wheel hub bearing worn: Check and renew
as necessary. NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the front of the vehicle up
and down (one side at a time), the vehicle
should come to rest in a single movement. If
it bounces two or three times before stop-
ping, the suspension unit should be renewed.
If the from of the vehicle is tower on one
side than the other, remove the coil spring
and check its free length against a new
spring. If the spring is found to be unservice-
able it is good practice to install two new
springs as a matching pair. This also applies
to the springs on the rear of the vehicle.

2. DESCRIPTION
The front suspension is an independent type
comprising two Macpherson strut suspension units
mounted vertically on each side of the vehicle. The
lower end of the suspension unit is bolted to the
steering knuckle, which in turn houses the front hub
bearings. The steering knuckle pivots on the control
arm by means of a ball joint.

The control arm pivots at its inner ends on rubber
bushes.

A stabilizer bar is attached to both ends of the
control arms using ball joint links. The stabilizer bar
is attached to the front underbody by brackets and
mounting rubbers.

Each front suspension unit assembly comprises a
tubular shock absorber type suspension unit, sur-
rounded at the upper end by a coil spring. On top of
the coil spring is the upper mounting which attaches
to the underside of the inner mudguard panel. The
piston rod of the suspensi on unit is attached to the
centre of the upper mounting by a rubber mounted
bearing.

When a suspension unit is found to be defective it
is recommended that both suspension units be re-
newed as a pair.

Camber is adjusted by means of a cam on the
upper steering knuckle to suspension unit mounting
bolt.

The kingpin inclination and caster are set in
production and cannot be adjusted. Any variation in
these angles will be caused by worn or damaged
components.

3. STEERING KNUCKLE
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Wheel Bearing — Press and press plates
and suitable tubes and mandrels
To Check Hub End Float — Dial gauge
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.


Checking the control arm bolts for security.

158 Front Suspension


Installed view of the front suspension. When using a floor jack locate the head of the jack on the crossmember.
(2) Remove the cap, split pin, castellated re-
tainer and with the aid of an assistant applying the
brakes, loosen and remove the hub nut.
(3) Remove the split pin and the castellated nut
retaining the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. (4) Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering
knuckle using a suitable puller. Alternatively place a
suitable dolly or hammer against one side of the
steering knuckle eye and strike the opposite side with
a hammer.
(5) Remove the brake caliper anchor plate bolts,
withdraw the caliper from the disc and support it with
a piece of wire inside the inner mudguard. Ensure that
the brake hose is not twisted.
(6) Withdraw the brake disc from the hub.
(7) Loosely install the hub nut and tap on the nut
with a soft faced hammer to separate the drive shaft
from the hub. (8) Place a mark on the suspension unit to
steering knuckle cam head bolt to ensure correct wheel
alignment on assembly. (9) Remove the steering knuckle to suspension
unit nuts and bolts. (10) Remove the split pin and the castellated nut
retaining the lower ball joint stud to the steering
knuckle. (11) Disconnect the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller or alternatively
place a suitable dolly or hammer against one side of
the steering knuckle eye and strike the opposite side
with a hammer.

(12)
Withdraw the steering knuckle from the
vehicle taking care not to drop the drive shaft or
damage its boot. (13) Clean and check the steering knuckle for
wear, cracks and damage. (14) If necessary, dismantle the hub and check
the bearing assembly using the dismantling procedure
described later in this section. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Install the steering knuckle and hub assembly
over the drive shaft and loosely install the ball joint
stud nut and the suspension unit to knuckle bolts and
nuts.
(2) Ensure that the suspension unit to steering
knuckle cam head bolt mark s are aligned and tighten
the retaining nuts to the specified torque.
NOTE: If the cam head bolt is not installed
in its original position, a wheel alignment
should be performed.

(3) Tighten the ball joint to steering knuckle stud
bolt to the specified torque.

Front Suspension 159
(4) Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle
and tighten the castellated nut securely. Install a
new
split pin.
(5) Install the brake disc to the hub.
(6) Install the brake caliper to the steering
knuckle and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. (7) Install the hub nut and washer to the
drive
shaft and with the aid of an assistant applying the
brakes, tighten the hub nut to the specified torque. (8) Install the hub nut retainer and a new
split
pin to the drive shaft. (9) Check the hub end float as described later in
this section. (10) Install the fron t wheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
TO DISMANTLE

NOTE: The front wheel bearing assembly is
non-serviceable. If the wheel bearing is dis-
mantled for any reason it should be re-
newed.

(1) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehi-
cle as previously described. (2) Hold the steering knuckle assembly in a vice
with soft jaw guards. (3) Using a hammer and a suitable pipe or tube
that pushes on the inside of the hub, drive out the
wheel hub and outside inner race from the steering
knuckle assembly. (4) Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
that retains the outer bearing race from the wheel side
of the steering knuckle. (5) Using a suitable press and press plates,
support the steering knuckle with the outside face
downwards. To aid in dismantling, position the inside
inner race in the bearing and press the assembly from
the steering knuckle. Discard the bearing assembly. (6) Using a bearing puller and a press, remove
the inner race from the hub assembly. If the inner race cannot be removed from the hub
in this manner, it may be necessary to grind the race

using an angle grinder and split the race using a cold
chisel.

(7) Thoroughly clean and dry the steering
knuckle and hub in a suitable solvent. (8) Inspect all the components for wear, damage
and cracks and renew if necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE

Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) Apply grease to the oil seal lips of the new
bearing assembly.

NOTE: Ensure that (he inside of the outer
race of the bearing is precoated with wheel
bearing grease. If necessary, pack the outer
race of the wheel bearing with wheel bearing
grease after it is installed to the steering
knuckle.

(2) Using the press and press plates, support the
steering knuckle with the outside face uppermost.
Using a suitable diameter steel tube that contacts on
the outer race only, press the outer race full into the
steering knuckle.
(3) Install the snap ring to the groove in the
steering knuckle.
(4) Install the inner races to the steering
knuckle
and support the inner race on the press using a
suitable tube or mandrel. (5) Using the press and a suitable tube press the
hub assembly into the steerin g knuckle. When using
the press ensure that the pressing force does not
exceed 29 kN. (6) With the press exerting a force of 44.1 kN
rotate the steering knuckle from side to side several
turns to ensure that the wh eel bearings are operating
smoothly.
(7) Install the steering knuckle to the vehicle
as
previously described.
TO CHECK HUB END FLOAT

(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.
(2) Mount the dial gauge on the steering knuckle
so that the dial gauge plunger is against the wheel hub.
(3) Zero the dial gauge and attempt to move the
hub in and out. Total hub e nd float should not exceed
0.05 mm. (4) Renew the wheel bearing as previously de-
scribed if necessary.
4. SUSPENSION UNIT

Special Equipment Required:
To Dismantle — Spring compressor
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheels.
Dismantled view of the steering knuckle and hub
components.

160 Front Suspension

(2) Disconnect the flexible brake hoses from the
suspension unit bracket.
(3) Using quick drying paint, place mating
marks on the camber adjustin g cam head bolt and the
suspension unit lower mounti ng as an aid to installa-
tion. (4) Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the
suspension unit lower mounting to the steering
knuckle. (5) Open the bonnet and remove the nuts
retaining the suspension unit upper mounting to the
inner mudguard panel and remove the suspension
unit assembly from the vehicle. Use care when
removing not to damage the drive shaft boot.

(6) Remove the dust cover and loosen the piston
rod nut but do not remove it at this stage. (7) Install a spring compressor to the
suspension
unit assembly. Compress the coil spring and remove
the piston rod nut. (8) Remove the washer, upper mounting assem-
bly, the thrust washer, spring seat, insulator, coil
spring, bump rubber and dust cover from the suspen-
sion unit. (9) Check the operation of the suspension unit.
With the suspension unit in a vertical position, move
the piston rod up and down a number of times. A

Dismantled view of the front suspension unit.
uniform resistance should be felt with no abnormal
slack spots or noise evident. If the suspension unit is
defective, it should be renewed.

NOTE: It is recommended that the suspen-
sion unit on the opposite side be renewed at
the same time.

(10) Check the upper mounting assembly for
damage and fatigue. Check the thrust washer for wear.
Check all rubber components, the spring seat and
insulator for wear, damage and deterioration. Renew
worn or damaged components. (11) Check the coil spring for fatigue by compar-
ison with a new spring. Al so check the spring for
cracks and damage. If the coil spring is defective, it is
recommended that the springs on both sides be
renewed.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL

Assembly and installation is a reversal of the
removal and dismantling procedure with attention to
the following points:
View of the front suspension unit with the spring
compressor installed.

Front Suspension 161


View of the suspension unit and knuckle assembly removed as a unit to show the cam head bolt.
(1) With the piston rod fully extended, install the
coil springs. Ensure that the spring compressor is
tightened sufficiently.

NOTE: The flat coiled end of the spring
should face the top and the lower end of the
spring should be located correctly.

(2) Install the dust cover, bump rubber, insulator,
spring seat, thrust washer and mounting assembly
ensuring that the arrow on the spring seat will face the
outside of the vehicle when the suspension unit
assembly is installed.
(3) Install the piston rod nut and tighten the nut
securely.
(4) Remove the coil spring compressor from the
suspension unit assembly and tighten the piston rod
nut to the specified torque. (5) Install the suspension unit assembly to the
vehicle, holding it in position by loosely installing the
upper mounting retaining nuts. (6) Install the suspension unit assembly lower
mounting to the steering knuckle, align the mating
marks on the cam head bolt and tighten the nuts and
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: If the cam head bolt is not installed

in its original position, a wheel alignment
must be performed.

(7) Tighten the upper retaining nuts to the
specified torque.
(8) Install the brake hoses to the suspension unit.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
(9) Check the front wheel alignment and adjust
as necessary. Refer to the Suspension and Steering
Angles heading in this section.
5. CONTROL ARM
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Ball Joint and Control Arm Bushes —
Press, suitable t ubes and mandrels
To Test Ball Joint — Small torque wrench or
preload gauge, spring scale

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front
of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands.
Remove the front wheel.

(2) Remove the split pin from the ball joint
retaining nut and remove the nut.
(3) Disconnect the ball joint from the control
arm using a suitable puller, or alternatively place a
suitable dolly against one si de of the control arm eye
and strike the opposite side with a hammer until the
ball joint stud is free from the control arm eye. (4) Remove the nut retaining the stabilizer link
to the control arm.

(5) Remove the nut and through bolt from the
front control arm bush. (6) Remove the bolts from the rear control arm
bush bracket and withdraw the control arm from the
vehicle. (7) Inspect the control arm for cracks, damage
and distortion and renew if necessary. (8) Inspect the ball joint and bushes for damage,
deterioration and excessive wear. If necessary renew
BALLJOINT
View of the control arm and associated components.

Front Suspension 163
(2) Ensure that the stabilizer bar links are in
good condition. Renew if necessary.
(3) When installing the stabilizer bar ensure that
the links are installed perpendicular to the control arm
with the ball joint socket face parallel to the end of the
stabilizer bar. (4) Ensure that the brackets are installed with
the flat portion facing towards the front of the vehicle.
Tighten the retaining bolts securely.
7. SUSPENSION AND STEERING ANGLES

ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Extensive knowledge and special-
ised equipment are required to measure and
correct the suspension and steering angles
with the exception of the front wheel toe in.
Therefore, as it is not a viable proposition
for the average person to carry out a com-
plete wheel alignment, the vehicle should be
taken to a wheel alignment specialist.

Prior to carrying out a wheel alignment, a thor-
ough inspection of the steering linkage, front hub
bearings, ball joints and suspension units should be
carried out. Faulty components should be renewed or
repaired as necessary.

The tread of the front ti res should be examined
for excessive or uneven wear as certain conditions of
tire wear are indicative of damaged or worn compo-
nents in the suspension, stee ring linkage and/or wheels
and bearings. Refer to the heading Tire Wear Trouble
Shooting in the Wheels and Tires section. If the tires
are found to be defective, renew them with serviceable
lyres.

TO CHECK AND ADJUST TOE IN/OUT
NOTE: The vehicle s hould be unladen ex-
cept for the normal amount of fuel and with
the tires inflated to the correct pressures.

(1) With the vehicle on a level floor, raise the
front of the vehicle and s upport it on chassis stands.
(2) Spin each front wheel in turn and using a
piece of chalk, mark a line around the periphery of
each tire as near to the centre as possible. (3) Lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce
the front several times to stabilize the suspension. (4) Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
(5) Mark the centre chalk line on both tires at a
point approximately 200 mm above the floor and
forward of the suspension. (6) Using a tape measure, measure and record
the distance between the two marked points on the
tire centers.

Diagram indicating the front wheel toe in. Refer to
Specifications for the correct difference between
measurement A and B.
(7) Maintaining the wheels in the straight ahead
position, roll the vehicle forward until the marks are
the same distance from the floor but to the rear of the
suspension. (8) Again using the tape measure, measure and
record the distance between the marks on the tires.
(9) The difference between the front and rear
measurement will give the correct toe in/out reading.
If the larger measurement is at the front, the wheels
are in a toe out position. If the reverse is true, the
wheels are in toe in position. Compare the reading
obtained with the figure given in Specifications.
(10) If adjustment of the to e in/out is necessary,
loosen the tie rod locknuts on both sides. (11) Remove the retaining clips from the small
end of the steering rack rubber boots. (12) Turn the tie rods as required until the correct
toe in/out reading is obtained.
NOTE: It is important to turn each tie rod
equally to maintain the central position of
the steering gear. Ensure that the lengths of
the tie rods are the same.

(13) Tighten the tie rod locknuts to the specified
torque without changing the positions of the adjusters.
(14) Install the retaining clips to the small end
of
the steering rack rubber boots, ensuring that the boots
are not twisted.

Brakes 175
A pressure proportioning valve is incorporated in
each circuit to prevent premature locking of the rear
wheels during severe braking.

The four wheel hydraulically operated brakes
utilize disc brakes on each front wheel and disc brakes
or leading and trailing drum brake shoes on each rear
wheel.

The front disc brakes comprise a disc attached to
the hub assembly and a caliper bolted to the steering
knuckle.

The rear disc brakes comprise a disc and hub
assembly attached to the rear stub axle and a caliper
and anchor plate bolted to the backing plate.

The front and rear calipers are of the sliding type.
As pad wear takes place, the caliper piston is allowed
to slide outwards through the seal to take up a new
position in the caliper bore. Elastic deformation of the
seal takes place when the brakes are applied, which
returns the piston slightly when the brakes are re-
leased. Thus a constant clearance is maintained
between the pads and the disc when the brakes are in
the off position.

The disc brakes do not require periodical adjust-
ment in service to compensate for pad wear as they
are self adjusting.

The leading and trailing shoe drum brakes on the
rear wheels use a double ended wheel cylinder to
operate both brake shoes at the top. The lower end of
each brake shoe abuts a fixed anchor point. The brake
shoes are automatically adju sted when the brakes are
operated.

The handbrake operates the rear brakes via a
cable arrangement.

3. MASTER CYLINDER
Special Equipment Required:
To Install New Seals — Suitable machined drift
TO REMOVE
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times to
deplete the vacuum from the system.

(2) Raise the bonnet and install covers to
both
the front mudguards. Cover the areas of paintwork
beneath the master cylinder with absorbent cloth.
(3) Disconnect the wiring from the pressure
sensing switch. (4) Disconnect the brake pipes from the master
cylinder and plug the outlets and pipes to prevent the
loss of fluid and the ingress of dirt.
(5) Remove the nuts retaining the master cylin-
der to the brake servo unit and remove the master
cylinder from the vehicle.
TO DISMANTLE

(1) Remove the master cylinder as previously
described. (2) Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm,
drain and discard the brake fluid from the reservoir. (3) Carefully remove the reservoir from the
master cylinder by pulling it from the reservoir
retainers by hand. Remove and discard the retainers
from the master cylinder. (4) Using internal snap ring pliers, remove the
snap ring from the primary reservoir port. (5) Remove the fast fill valve assembly and the
O ring from the port. Remove and discard the valve
washer from the fast fill valve.
(6) Remove the proportioning valve plugs and
the O rings. Discard the O rings. Withdraw the springs
and valve plungers from the master cylinder. Remove
and discard the seals from the valve plungers. (7) Remove the pressure sensing switch and
lever assembly from the master cylinder. {8) Remove the cylinder end plug from the
master cylinder. Remove and discard the O ring from
the plug.

(9) Carefully tap the front of the master cylinder
vertically on a block of wo od and remove the pressure
differential pistons from the master cylinder. Remove
and discard the O rings from the pistons. (10) Push the primary piston forward in the
cylinder with a blunt rod and while holding the
pressure, remove the stop pin from the master cylin-
der.
(11) The primary piston may now be withdrawn
from the cylinder bore. The secondary piston, retainer
and spring can also be withdrawn by carefully tapping
the master cylinder on a block of wood. (12) Prise the legs of the seal retainer upwards
and remove it from the primary piston. Remove the
seal and guide. Discard the seal and retainer.
NOTE: The secondary piston must no! be
dismantled by removing the screw. This
assembly has a factory p reset length and the
screw must not be altered in service.

(13) Remove the main seal and the guide from
the front of the secondary piston. Stretch the rear seal
from the groove and remove it from the piston. Take

Installed view of the master cylinder and servo unit. Air
duct removed for clarity. 1.8 liter model.

178 Brakes

Let the vehicle stand for 1-2 minutes, press the
brake pedal two or three times and check its opera-
tion.

If there is no vacuum assistance, the vacuum
system has developed a leak or the one way check
valve is defective.

NOTE: Before removing the servo unit from
the vehicle for inspection, disconnect the
hose from the servo unit, start the engine
and check that the manifold vacuum is in
fact reaching the servo unit. Also test the one
way check valve as described below,

TO TEST ONE WAY CHECK VALVE
(1) Disconnect the hose and remove the check
valve from the servo unit.

(2) Check the valve for sticking. Suction on the
manifold side should allo w air to flow freely. Air
blown into the valve from the manifold side should
not be able to flow through the valve. (3) Install the valve and check the operation
of
the servo unit as previously described.
NOTE: Check that there are no air leaks at
the hose connections and that the hose clips
are tight. Also check that the hose is not
bulged or collapsed due to deterioration.


Checking for vacuum at the servo unit. The engine
must be running for this test.
TO REMOVE
(1) Raise the bonnet and install covers to both
front mudguards.

(2) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
assembly from the vehicle. If necessary refer to the
Fuel System section.
(3) On vehicles equipped with power steering,
remove the reservoir from the bulkhead and move it
to one side. If necessary refer to the Steering section.
(4) Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the
servo unit.

View of the brake servo unit and associated compo-
nents.
(5) Remove the master cylinder as described
under the Master Cylinder heading. (6) Working inside the vehicle, remove the clip
and clevis pin connecting the pushrod to the brake
pedal. (7) Remove the nuts retaining the servo unit to
the bulkhead and maneuver the servo unit and
spacer block from the vehicle.
TO INSTAL

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) With the servo unit and master cylinder
installed to the vehicle, bleed the hydraulic system as
described under the Hydr aulic System heading.
(2) Check and if necessary adjust the brake
pedal height and free play as described under the
Brake Pedal heading.
5. FRONT BRAKES
Special Equipment Required:
To Check Disc Runout — Dial gauge
To Check Disc Thickness — Micrometer

TO CHECK AND RENEW BRAKE PADS
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and place it on
chassis stands. Remove the front wheels.

(2) Inspect the brake pads on both sides of the
vehicle. If the friction material on one or more of the
pads is less than 2 mm thick or contaminated with
fluid or grease, renew the brake pads as a set as
follows.
NOTE: If the brake pads are contaminated,
trace and rectify the cause prior to installing
the new set of pads.

(3) Drain approximately two thirds of the brake
fluid from the master cylinde r reservoir. This can be
done by loosening the bleeder valve on the caliper and
allowing the fluid to drai n into a container. Discard
this fluid.