check oil NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 141 of 238
Automatic Transaxle 141
(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.
NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.
ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE
(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION
The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.
The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.
The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.
The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.
It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.
For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.
It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.
The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.
NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.
3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.
TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.
(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.
NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.
(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.
(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.
Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.
Page 142 of 238
142 Automatic Transaxle
(8) Install the dipstick and start the engine and
recheck the fluid level.
NOTE; Do not overfill the transaxle or
foaming and unsatisfactory operation of the
transaxle will result.
TO DRAIN AND REFILL
This is not a normal maintenance and lubrication
procedure. It is only necessary to drain the complete
system, including the torq ue converter and the oil
cooler, when the transaxle assembly is removed for
overhaul or the renewal of transaxle components such
as bearings, clutches or as semblies. When this condi-
tion arises, the torque converter and the cooler should
be cleaned and flushed to remove any dirt or sludge.
After transaxle overhaul, install approximately 6
liters of new transaxle fluid, and top up as previously
described.
4. BRAKE BAND
Band adjustment is not a normal maintenance
procedure.
The adjustment entails removal of the valve body
and for this reason the vehicle should be taken to an
authorized dealer.
5. KICKDOWN CABLE
TO ADJUST
(1) On models with a 1.6 liter engine, remove
the air cleaner assembly. (2) With the aid of an assistant, ensure that the
throttle valve is fully open when the throttle pedal is
fully depressed. (3) Push the clip on the outer kickdown cable
and pull the cable away from the throttle linkage.
View of the kickdown cable adjustment point. 1.6 liter
engine.
(4) Slowly depress the throttle pedal to the full
throttle position.
The outer kickdown cable will automatically ad-
just and emit a clicking noise.
6. TRANSAXLE SELECTOR LINKAGE
TO ADJUST CONTROL CABLE
(1) Place the selector lever in the Park position.
(2) Loosen the control cable locknuts and ensure
that the transaxle selector lever is in the Park position.
View of the transaxle selector linkage control cable
adjustment.
(3) Hold the selector rod horizontal and adjust
the outer locknut until it touches the selector rod.
(4) Tighten the inner locknut securely.
7. NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
The neutral safety switch, incorporating the re-
verse lamp switch is located on the transaxle case
View of the kickdown cable adjustment point. The
arrow indicates the direction in which the outer kick-
down cable must be pulled to initiate the automatic adjustment. 1.8 liter engine.
Page 143 of 238
Automatic Transaxle 143
facing towards the radiator support panel at the front
of the vehicle.
The neutral safety switch allows electrical current
to pass to the starter circ uit only when the selector
lever is in the Park or Neutral position. The switch is
adjustable but non-repairable.
TO TEST
(1) Disconnect the neutral safety switch wiring
connector.
(2) Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 1
and 2 at the neutral safety switch wiring connector.
Continuity should exist when the selector lever is in
the P or N positions. (3) Perform the same check with terminals 3 and
4 with the selector lever in the R position. Continuity
should exist.
NOTE: If the readings are other than that
specified, the neutral safety switch will have
to be adjusted or renewed.
Neutral safety switch connector terminal identification.
TO ADJUST
(1) Select Neutral and firmly apply the hand-
brake. (2) Loosen the neutral safety switch retaining
bolts.
(3) Align the holes in the neutral safety switch
body and the neutral safety switch arm. (4) Install a 2.5 mm diameter split pin or drill bit
into the holes to align the arm with the neutral safety
switch body. (5) Secure the retaining bolts and test the switch
as previously described.
If the test indicates a fault, renew the neutral
safety switch.
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. (2) Remove the selector cable split pin and wave
washer from the transaxle selector lever.
(3) Disconnect the electric al connector and re-
move the neutral safety switch retaining bolts. (4) Maneuver the neutral safety switch clear of
the transaxle selector lever and withdraw the switch
from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Clean the area around the neutral safety
switch mounting.
(2) Apply a small amount of chassis grease to the
jaws of the neutral safety switch arm. (3) Check the adjustment of the selector cable as
previously described. (4) Adjust the neutral safety switch as previ-
ously described.
(5) Check the operation of the neutral safety
switch and ensure that the engine will not start in any
position other than P and N. Check that the reversing
lamps operate only when R is selected.
8. TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Install — Suitable trolley jack to
which the transaxle can be secured
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the left hand front wheel.
(2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left hand side inner mudguard
(3)
panel.
(4) Remove the left hand drive shaft as de-
scribed in the Manual Tran saxle and Drive Shafts
section. (5) Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor wiring,
selector control cable and the neutral safety switch
wiring from the transaxle. Disconnect the kickdown
cable from the throttle linkage and the support
bracket. (6) Disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the
Using a 2.5 mm drill bit to adjust the neutral safety
switch.
Page 150 of 238
150 Steering — Part 2
View of the steering gear and associated components removed from the vehicle.
mark the universal coupling joint in relation to the
steering gear pinion as an aid to installation.
(2) Remove the bolt retaining the universal
coupling joint to the steering gear pinion. (3) Raise the front of the vehicle, support it on
chassis stands at the jack ing points and remove the
front wheels. Refer to the Wheel and Tires section.
(4) Remove the split pins and castellated nuts
from the tie rod end studs and disconnect the tie rod
ends from the steering arms.
NOTE: Disconnect each tie rod end by
placing a suitable dolly or hammer against
one side of the steer ing arm eye and striking
the opposite side with a hammer.
(5) Remove the bolts from the steering gear
mounting brackets. (6) Separate the steering gear pinion from the
universal coupling joint and maneuver the steering
gear from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Ensure that the steering gear mounting
bracket rubbers are in good condition. Renew if
necessary.
(2) Renew the split pins on the tie rod castel-
lated nuts.
(3) Check and if necessary adjust the front wheel
toe in. Refer to the Front Suspension section for the
correct procedure.
TO OVERHAUL
To overhaul the steering gear a range of special
tools is required. If the steering gear has a fault
which requires the removal of the rack or pinion it
is recommended that the necessary repairs be car-
ried out by an authorized dealer.
TO RENEW TIE ROD BALL HOUSINGS
(1) Remove the steering gear from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Note or mark the installed position of the
mounting rubbers as an aid to assembly and remove
the rubbers from the steering gear.
(3) Thoroughly clean the exterior of the steering
gear in a suitable cleaning solvent.
(4) Secure the steering gear in a soft jawed vice
and centralize the rack in the steering gear. (5) Loosen both the ti e rod end locknuts and
unscrew the tie rod ends from the tie rods, noting the
number of turns required to do so. Remove the
locknuts from the tie rods. (6) Remove the tie rod rubber boot retaining
clamps, detach the boot s from the steering gear
housing and slide them from the tie rods. Take care to
position a container to catch the oil contained in the
steering gear assembly. (7) Where the tie rod ball housing is retained by
staking, drill the staking away from the rack and t i e
rod using a 4.0 mm drill. Do not drill into the rack
more than is necessary to drill out the staking.
Where the tie rod ball housing is retained by a
lock pin, drill out the lock pin from the ball housing
and tie rod using a 4.0 mm drill. Do not exceed a
drilling depth of 10.0 mm.
Using a 4.0 mm drill to remove the staking from the tie
rod ball housing.
Page 156 of 238
156
FRONT SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type.................. Independent MacPherson strut with
coil springs and control arms
Shock absorber .................. Hydraulic, non-repairable
Hub bearing end float (maximum) ............. 0.05 mm
Ball joint axial play (maximum) ....................0.7 mm
Ball joint turning torque (used)...............0.5-4.9 Nm
Wheel alignment:
Toe in ..................................................... 0-2 mm
Camber ........................................- 0 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
Caster ..............................................1 ° 1 0 ' ± 4 5 '
King pin inclination..................... 1 3 ° 5 5 ' ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub bearing nut..................................... 196-235 Nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle nut ...... 118 Nm
Suspension unit to body nuts ......................... 29 Nm
Piston rod nut .................................................. 72 Nm
Brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts ........... 52 Nm
Ball joint to steering knuckle bolt ................... 86 Nm
Control arm bracket bolts ............................... 98 Nm
Control arm pivot bolt ................................ 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar link nuts..................................... 44 Nm
Stabiliser bar bracket bolts .............................. 21 Nm
1. FRONT SUSPENSION TROUBLE
SHOOTING
FRONT END NOISE
(1) Loose upper suspension mounting or piston
rod: Tighten the mounting or piston rod nuts. (2) Loose or worn suspension unit lower ball
joint: Tighten or renew the lower ball joint.
(3) Noise in the suspension unit: Renew the
faulty suspension unit, preferably in pairs.
(4) Worn or loose steering gear: Overhaul the
steering gear assembly. (5) Worn front hub bearings: Renew the hub
bearings:
(6) Loose or defective stab ilizer bar, control arm
or mountings: Check, tighten or renew the mounting
rubbers.
Check the ball joints for wear and deterioration.
(7) Worn stabilizer bar link ball joints: Renew
the stabilizer bar links.
(8) Drive shafts worn or insufficiently lubri-
cated: Check the lubricant and the dust boots and
renew as necessary. (9) Drive shaft splines in the hub or the
differential worn or dama ged: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: To check the front suspension com-
ponents for wear, raise the front of the
vehicle, support it on chassis stands and
allow both front wheel to hang free. With an
assistant pushing and pulling the front
wheels in and out at the top and then at the
bottom, check for excessive looseness at the
front hub bearings and lower control arm
inner pivot bushes. Noise or vibration in the
front end can also be caused by excessive
tire or wheel unbalance. Drive shaft joint
noise is usually more pronounced when
moving slowly with the steering on full lock.
POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING
ABILITY
(1) Low or uneven tire pressures: Inflate the
tires to the recommended pressures.
(2) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
unit, preferably in pairs.
Page 157 of 238
Front Suspension 157
Check the stabilizer bar links for wear and damage.
(3) Incorrect front end alignment: Check and
adjust the alignment as necessary. (4) Defective stabilizer bar mounting rubbers or
worn link ball joints: Renew component as necessary. (5) Weak or broken front coil spring: Renew
both springs as a matching pair. (6) Broken or weak rear coil spring: Renew both
springs as matching pair. (7) Drive shaft bent or distorted: Check and
renew as necessary. (8) Tie rod end worn or damaged: Check and
renew as necessary.
(9) Control arm ball joint worn or damaged:
Check and renew as necessary.
(10) Control arm mounting bolts loose: Tighten
the control arm bolts. (11) Wheel hub bearing worn: Check and renew
as necessary. NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the front of the vehicle up
and down (one side at a time), the vehicle
should come to rest in a single movement. If
it bounces two or three times before stop-
ping, the suspension unit should be renewed.
If the from of the vehicle is tower on one
side than the other, remove the coil spring
and check its free length against a new
spring. If the spring is found to be unservice-
able it is good practice to install two new
springs as a matching pair. This also applies
to the springs on the rear of the vehicle.
2. DESCRIPTION
The front suspension is an independent type
comprising two Macpherson strut suspension units
mounted vertically on each side of the vehicle. The
lower end of the suspension unit is bolted to the
steering knuckle, which in turn houses the front hub
bearings. The steering knuckle pivots on the control
arm by means of a ball joint.
The control arm pivots at its inner ends on rubber
bushes.
A stabilizer bar is attached to both ends of the
control arms using ball joint links. The stabilizer bar
is attached to the front underbody by brackets and
mounting rubbers.
Each front suspension unit assembly comprises a
tubular shock absorber type suspension unit, sur-
rounded at the upper end by a coil spring. On top of
the coil spring is the upper mounting which attaches
to the underside of the inner mudguard panel. The
piston rod of the suspensi on unit is attached to the
centre of the upper mounting by a rubber mounted
bearing.
When a suspension unit is found to be defective it
is recommended that both suspension units be re-
newed as a pair.
Camber is adjusted by means of a cam on the
upper steering knuckle to suspension unit mounting
bolt.
The kingpin inclination and caster are set in
production and cannot be adjusted. Any variation in
these angles will be caused by worn or damaged
components.
3. STEERING KNUCKLE
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Wheel Bearing — Press and press plates
and suitable tubes and mandrels
To Check Hub End Float — Dial gauge
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.
Checking the control arm bolts for security.
Page 159 of 238
Front Suspension 159
(4) Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle
and tighten the castellated nut securely. Install a
new
split pin.
(5) Install the brake disc to the hub.
(6) Install the brake caliper to the steering
knuckle and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. (7) Install the hub nut and washer to the
drive
shaft and with the aid of an assistant applying the
brakes, tighten the hub nut to the specified torque. (8) Install the hub nut retainer and a new
split
pin to the drive shaft. (9) Check the hub end float as described later in
this section. (10) Install the fron t wheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
TO DISMANTLE
NOTE: The front wheel bearing assembly is
non-serviceable. If the wheel bearing is dis-
mantled for any reason it should be re-
newed.
(1) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehi-
cle as previously described. (2) Hold the steering knuckle assembly in a vice
with soft jaw guards. (3) Using a hammer and a suitable pipe or tube
that pushes on the inside of the hub, drive out the
wheel hub and outside inner race from the steering
knuckle assembly. (4) Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
that retains the outer bearing race from the wheel side
of the steering knuckle. (5) Using a suitable press and press plates,
support the steering knuckle with the outside face
downwards. To aid in dismantling, position the inside
inner race in the bearing and press the assembly from
the steering knuckle. Discard the bearing assembly. (6) Using a bearing puller and a press, remove
the inner race from the hub assembly. If the inner race cannot be removed from the hub
in this manner, it may be necessary to grind the race
using an angle grinder and split the race using a cold
chisel.
(7) Thoroughly clean and dry the steering
knuckle and hub in a suitable solvent. (8) Inspect all the components for wear, damage
and cracks and renew if necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Apply grease to the oil seal lips of the new
bearing assembly.
NOTE: Ensure that (he inside of the outer
race of the bearing is precoated with wheel
bearing grease. If necessary, pack the outer
race of the wheel bearing with wheel bearing
grease after it is installed to the steering
knuckle.
(2) Using the press and press plates, support the
steering knuckle with the outside face uppermost.
Using a suitable diameter steel tube that contacts on
the outer race only, press the outer race full into the
steering knuckle.
(3) Install the snap ring to the groove in the
steering knuckle.
(4) Install the inner races to the steering
knuckle
and support the inner race on the press using a
suitable tube or mandrel. (5) Using the press and a suitable tube press the
hub assembly into the steerin g knuckle. When using
the press ensure that the pressing force does not
exceed 29 kN. (6) With the press exerting a force of 44.1 kN
rotate the steering knuckle from side to side several
turns to ensure that the wh eel bearings are operating
smoothly.
(7) Install the steering knuckle to the vehicle
as
previously described.
TO CHECK HUB END FLOAT
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.
(2) Mount the dial gauge on the steering knuckle
so that the dial gauge plunger is against the wheel hub.
(3) Zero the dial gauge and attempt to move the
hub in and out. Total hub e nd float should not exceed
0.05 mm. (4) Renew the wheel bearing as previously de-
scribed if necessary.
4. SUSPENSION UNIT
Special Equipment Required:
To Dismantle — Spring compressor
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheels.
Dismantled view of the steering knuckle and hub
components.
Page 160 of 238
160 Front Suspension
(2) Disconnect the flexible brake hoses from the
suspension unit bracket.
(3) Using quick drying paint, place mating
marks on the camber adjustin g cam head bolt and the
suspension unit lower mounti ng as an aid to installa-
tion. (4) Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the
suspension unit lower mounting to the steering
knuckle. (5) Open the bonnet and remove the nuts
retaining the suspension unit upper mounting to the
inner mudguard panel and remove the suspension
unit assembly from the vehicle. Use care when
removing not to damage the drive shaft boot.
(6) Remove the dust cover and loosen the piston
rod nut but do not remove it at this stage. (7) Install a spring compressor to the
suspension
unit assembly. Compress the coil spring and remove
the piston rod nut. (8) Remove the washer, upper mounting assem-
bly, the thrust washer, spring seat, insulator, coil
spring, bump rubber and dust cover from the suspen-
sion unit. (9) Check the operation of the suspension unit.
With the suspension unit in a vertical position, move
the piston rod up and down a number of times. A
Dismantled view of the front suspension unit.
uniform resistance should be felt with no abnormal
slack spots or noise evident. If the suspension unit is
defective, it should be renewed.
NOTE: It is recommended that the suspen-
sion unit on the opposite side be renewed at
the same time.
(10) Check the upper mounting assembly for
damage and fatigue. Check the thrust washer for wear.
Check all rubber components, the spring seat and
insulator for wear, damage and deterioration. Renew
worn or damaged components. (11) Check the coil spring for fatigue by compar-
ison with a new spring. Al so check the spring for
cracks and damage. If the coil spring is defective, it is
recommended that the springs on both sides be
renewed.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL
Assembly and installation is a reversal of the
removal and dismantling procedure with attention to
the following points:
View of the front suspension unit with the spring
compressor installed.
Page 161 of 238
Front Suspension 161
View of the suspension unit and knuckle assembly removed as a unit to show the cam head bolt.
(1) With the piston rod fully extended, install the
coil springs. Ensure that the spring compressor is
tightened sufficiently.
NOTE: The flat coiled end of the spring
should face the top and the lower end of the
spring should be located correctly.
(2) Install the dust cover, bump rubber, insulator,
spring seat, thrust washer and mounting assembly
ensuring that the arrow on the spring seat will face the
outside of the vehicle when the suspension unit
assembly is installed.
(3) Install the piston rod nut and tighten the nut
securely.
(4) Remove the coil spring compressor from the
suspension unit assembly and tighten the piston rod
nut to the specified torque. (5) Install the suspension unit assembly to the
vehicle, holding it in position by loosely installing the
upper mounting retaining nuts. (6) Install the suspension unit assembly lower
mounting to the steering knuckle, align the mating
marks on the cam head bolt and tighten the nuts and
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: If the cam head bolt is not installed
in its original position, a wheel alignment
must be performed.
(7) Tighten the upper retaining nuts to the
specified torque.
(8) Install the brake hoses to the suspension unit.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
(9) Check the front wheel alignment and adjust
as necessary. Refer to the Suspension and Steering
Angles heading in this section.
5. CONTROL ARM
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Ball Joint and Control Arm Bushes —
Press, suitable t ubes and mandrels
To Test Ball Joint — Small torque wrench or
preload gauge, spring scale
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front
of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands.
Remove the front wheel.
(2) Remove the split pin from the ball joint
retaining nut and remove the nut.
(3) Disconnect the ball joint from the control
arm using a suitable puller, or alternatively place a
suitable dolly against one si de of the control arm eye
and strike the opposite side with a hammer until the
ball joint stud is free from the control arm eye. (4) Remove the nut retaining the stabilizer link
to the control arm.
(5) Remove the nut and through bolt from the
front control arm bush. (6) Remove the bolts from the rear control arm
bush bracket and withdraw the control arm from the
vehicle. (7) Inspect the control arm for cracks, damage
and distortion and renew if necessary. (8) Inspect the ball joint and bushes for damage,
deterioration and excessive wear. If necessary renew
BALLJOINT
View of the control arm and associated components.
Page 162 of 238
162 Front Suspension
the ball joint or bushes as described later in this
section.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) When installing the control arm bush
bracket, ensure that the protrusion on the bracket is
towards the inside of the vehicle.
(2) Do not fully tighten the control arm bush
bolts and through bolt nut until the curb weight of the
vehicle is on the suspension.
NOTE: Curb weight is with the vehicle
unladen except for a full tank of fuel and
normal amounts of oil and water and with
the spare lyre, jack and hand tools in their
normal positions.
(3) Tighten the ball joint nut to the specified
torque and retain with a new split pin.
TO CHECK AND RENEW BALL JOINT
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Install the ball joint nut and turn the ball
joint at least ten revolutions to ensure that the ball
joint is correctly seated. (3) Using a spring scale with the hook placed
over the split pin hole, check the ball joint swinging
torque. A new ball joint should measure 15.7-80.4 N
and a used ball joint should measure 7.8-80.4 N.
Renew the ball joint if necessary. (4) Using a small torque wrench or preload
gauge, measure the force requi red to rotate the ball
joint. A new ball joint should measure between
1.0-4.9 Nm and a used ball joint should measure
between 0.5-4.9 Nm. Renew the ball joint if neces-
sary.
(5) To renew the ball joint, remove the snap ring
from the stud end of the ball joint using snap ring
pliers. (6) Support the control arm in a press, ball joint
stud uppermost, with a suitable tube that is large
enough for the ball joint to pass through. (7) Press the ball joint out from the control arm.
(8) Press a new ball joint into the control arm
using a suitable tube that pushes on the outer circum-
ference of the joint only.
(9) Install the snap ring and install the
control
arm to the vehicle as previously described.
TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSHES
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described. Mark the position of the rear
control arm bush. (2) To remove the rear control arm bush use a
bearing puller and a press. When installing the bush
use a suitable tube that pushes on the inner edge of the
bush only. NOTE: Ensure that the bush is installed
with the flat portion in its original location.
(3)
To remove the front control arm bush use a
suitable tube that pushes on the outer circumference
of the bush and a split tu be supporting the control
arm. (4) After the bush has been pressed out approx-
imately half way, cut the protruding part of the bush
using a hacksaw. Cutting the bush in this way will
allow removal.
(5) Support the control arm and push the new
bush in from the outside using a suitable tube that
pushes on the outer circumference only. (6) Install the control ar m to the vehicle as
previously described.
6. STABILISER BAR
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands.
(2) Remove the bolts at the flexible joint retain-
ing the front engine pipe to the exhaust pipe located
below the stabilizer bar. (3) Remove the bolt from the exhaust pipe
mounting below the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the
exhaust pipe at the flexible joint and allow the front of
the pipe to hang down. (4) Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retaining
bolts and remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the
vehicle. (5) Remove the stabilizer bar lower link nuts
from each control arm. When removing the lower nuts
it may be necessary to hold the upper nuts with a
spanner.
(6) Maneuver the stabilizer bar from the
vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Ensure that the stabilizer bar mounting rub-
bers are in a serviceable condition and secure in the
mounting brackets.
Dismantled view of one end of the stabilizer bar.