Oldsmobile Bravada 2003 Owner's Manuals

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle. Include
an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth and reflective warning triangles. And,
if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet or
a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However,
if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a
lot less traction or “grip” and will need to
very careful.
4-36

I
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing
(32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there. Whatever the condition
- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
- drive with caution.
If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will
improve your ability to accelerate when driving
on
a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off
if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or
snow. See
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
on page
4-40. Even though your vehicle has a traction
system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving
to the road conditions. See
Traction Assist System
(TAS) on page 4-9.
If you don’t have a traction system, accelerate gently.
Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
4-37

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner that you would on dry pavement. See
Braking on page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are
on it. Try not to brake while you’re
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard flashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you’ve been stopped by the snow.
4-38

Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats
- anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
-.-
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. Snow can trap ~,,raust
,,ses u..,er your
vehicle. This can cause deadly
CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside.
CO could
overcome you and
kill you. You can’t see it or
smell
it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open a window
just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will
help keep
CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
4-39

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and
repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from
the cold. But do
it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel
as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or
Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can
help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must
use caution.
If
,-u let yo^. -..,s spin a’. ..igh speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts
of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage.
CAUTION: (Continued)
I 1
When you’re stuc , sp : wneels as little as
possible. Don’t spin the wheels above
35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, see
Tire Chains on page 5-60.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn’t get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your
Vehicle on page 4-4 1.
4-40

Towing Loading Your Vehicle
Towing
Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle
- such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any
OJ
its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be
towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section. The
Certificationflire label is found on the driver’s door
edge, above the door latch. The label shows the
size of your original tires and the inflation pressures
needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your
vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the
vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue
weight,
if pulling a trailer.

The CertificationDire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads
on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a
weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can
help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load
equally on both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR
for either the front or rear axle.
If you do have
a heavy load, you should spread it out.
Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs
and payloads. Please note your vehicle’s
CertificationDire label or consult your dealer for
additional details. Using heavier suspension
components to get added
durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings.
Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the
right way.
Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or
components that fail because
of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle-like suitcases, tools,
packages, or anything else-they will go as fast as the
vehicle goes.
If you have to stop or turn quickly, or
if there’s a crash, they’ll keep going.
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and
it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose
control and crash. Also, overloading can
shorten the life of your vehicle.
1 ... ngs yV- p~. .nsi,, your vehicle can strike
and injure people in
a sudden stop or turn, or
in a crash.
Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle
so that some of them
are above the tops of the seats.
CAUTION: (Continued)
4-42

Don’t leave an unsecured child resL,int in
your vehicle.
When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you
can.
Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you
need to.
There’s also important loading information for off-road
driving in this manual.
Electronically Controlled Air
Suspension System
Your vehicle may be equipped with an electronically
controlled air suspension system that automatically
keeps your vehicle level as you load and unload. The
system includes a compressor, two height sensors
and two air springs supporting the rear axle. The system also has an internal clock to prevent
overheating.
If the system overheats, all leveling function
stops until the system cools down. During this time, the
indicator light on the air inflator system will be flashing.
The ignition has
to be on for the system to inflate, in
order
to raise the vehicle to the standard ride height after
loading. The system can lower the vehicle
to the
standard ride height after unloading with the ignition on
and also for up
to 30 minutes after the ignition has
been turned
off.
You may hear the compressor operating when you load
your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts
the vehicle
to the standard ride height.
Load leveling will not function normally with the inflator
hose attached
to the inflator outlet. Remove the
inflator hose from the outlet during loading and
unloading.
If the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time,
some bleed down of the suspension is normal. Upon
starting the vehicle, proper height will be achieved.
4-43

Overload Protection Indicator Light
The air suspension system is equipped with overload
protection. Overload protection is designed
to protect the
air suspension system, and
it is an indicator to the
driver that the vehicle
is overloaded. When the overload
protection mode is on,
it will not allow damage to the
air compressor. However, do not overload the vehicle.
See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-4 1.
If the suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle
load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight
Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated,
the compressor operates for about
30 seconds to one
minute without raising the vehicle depending on the
amount of overload. This will continue each time
the ignition
is turned on until the rear axle load is
reduced below GAWR. The indicator light
on the inflator switch in the rear
passenger compartment also serves as an indicator for
internal system error.
If the indicator light is flashing
without the load leveling function or the inflator being
active, turn
off the ignition. The next day turn on
the ignition and check the indicator light. The vehicle
can be driven with the light flashing, but
if it is you
should have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
Adding a Snow Plow or Similar
Equipment
Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended for a
snow plow.
Notice: Adding a snow plow or similar equipment
to your vehicle can damage it, and the repairs
wouldn’t be covered by warranty.
Do not install a
snow plow or similar equipment on your vehicle.
4-44

Towing a Trailer
If you don’t use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull
a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well
-- or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have
followed all the steps in this section. Ask your
dealer for advice and information about towing
a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result
in costly repairs not covered
by your warranty.
To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in
this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance
is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services’’
in the Index.
To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle,
you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer’’
that appears later in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In
it are many time-testea,
important trailering
tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers.
So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
4-45