oil pressure OPEL FRONTERA 1998 User Guide

4B2–5 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD)
Front and Rear Speed Sensors
The sensors are built in the transfer case, detect the
rotation of rotors directly coupled to the propeller shafts.
Thirty rectangular pulses are output per one rotation of
the propeller shaft.
261RW045
Electromagnetic Coil
Receives the duty signals from the TOD control unit and
controls the pressing force of the clutch pressure cam.
261RW044
Multi Plate Disk Clutch Pack
Transmits the torque determined by the clutch pressing
force to the front propeller shaft via the front drive chain.
262RW029
Mechanical Lock Sleeve
Couples the front and rear propeller shaft mechanically
when the transfer shaft is in the 4L position.
262RW028

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–88
StepActionYe sNo
1Are the front and rear tires in specified size?
Go to Step 2
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
2Is the tire pressure correct?
Go to Step 3
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
3Are the tires free from abnormal wear?
Go to Step 4
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
4Are different types of tires used?
Go to Step 5
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
51. Start the engine.
2. Shift the transfer lever to the high (TOD) position.
3. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 6 Go to Step 11
61. Shift the transfer lever to the 2H position.
2. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 7 Go to Step 14
7Is an LSD mounted to the rear differential? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
8Is the genuine LSD oil used in the rear differential?
Go to Step 9
Replace the
differential oil.
Go to Step 16
9Does the engine output the power correctly?
Go to Step 10
Check the
engine.
Go to Step 16
10Do the speed sensors work correctly? (Check trouble codes.)The ECU has
failed. Replace
the ECU.
Go to Step 16
Replace the
speed sensors.
Go to Step 16
11Is the tight corner braking observed only when the brake is
applied?
Go to Step 12
Conduct full
steering under
WOT.
Go to Step 5
121. Turn off the starter switch.
2. Disconnect the ECU connector.
Is the battery voltage observed between terminals (B–68)6 and
(B–67)11?
Go to Step 13
Repair the circuit
of terminal 6
(ABS IN).
Go to Step 16

5A–4
BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM
normal braking when a malfunction has occurred in the
ABS.
The EHCU has a self-diagnosing function which can
indicate faulty circuits during diagnosis.
The EHCU is mounted on the engine compartment front
right side. It consists of a Motor, Plunger Pump, Solenoid
Valves and Check Valve.
On the outside, the relay box containing a motor relay and
a valve relay is installed.
Solenoid Valves: Reduces or holds the caliper fluid
pressure for each front disc brake or both rear disc brakes
according to the signal sent from the EHCU.
Reservoir: Temporarily holds the brake fluid that returns
from the front and rear disc brake caliper so that pressure
of front disc brake caliper can be reduced smoothly.
Plunger Pump: Feeds the brake fluid held in the reservoir
to the master cylinder.
Motor: Drives the pump according to the signal from
EHCU.
Check Valve: Controls the brake fluid flow.
ABS Warning Light
821RW033Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake System have
an amber “ABS” warning light in the instrument panel.
The “ABS” warning light will illuminate if a malfunction in
the Anti-lock Brake System is detected by the Electronic
Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU). In case of an electronic
malfunction, the EHCU will turn “ON” the “ABS” warning
light and disable the Anti-lock braking function.
The “ABS” light will turn “ON” for approximately three
seconds after the ignition switch is to the “ON” position.
If the “ABS” light stays “ON” after the ignition switch is the
“ON” position, or comes “ON” and stays “ON” while
driving, the Anti-lock Brake System should be inspected
for a malfunction according to the diagnosis procedure.
Wheel Speed Sensor
It consists of a sensor and a rotor. The sensor is attached
to the knuckle on the front wheels and to the axle shaft
bearing holder on the rear wheels.
The rotor is press-fit in the axle shaft.The flux generated from electrodes magnetized by a
magnet in the sensor varies due to rotation of the rotor,
and the electromagnetic induction generates alternating
voltage in the coil. This voltage draws a “sine curve” with
the frequency proportional to rotor speed and it allows
detection of wheel speed.
G-Sensor
The G-sensor installed inside the center console detects
the vehicle deceleration speed and sends a signal to the
EHCU. In 4WD operation, all four wheels may be
decelerated in almost the same phase, since all wheels
are connected mechanically.
This tendency is noticeable particularly on roads with low
friction coefficient, and the ABS control is adversely
affected.
The G-sensor judges whether the friction coefficient of
road surface is low or high, and changes the EHCU’s
operating system to ensure ABS control.
Normal and Anti-lock Braking
Under normal driving conditions, the Anti-lock Brake
System functions the same as a standard power assisted
brake system. However, with the detection of wheel
lock-up, a slight bump or kick-back will be felt in the brake
pedal. This pedal “bump” will be followed by a series of
short pedal pulsations which occurs in rapid succession.
The brake pedal pulsation will continue until there is no
longer a need for the anti-lock function or until the vehicle
is stopped. A slight ticking or popping noise may be heard
during brake applications when the Anti-lock features is
being used.
When the Anti-lock feature is being used, the brake pedal
may rise even as the brakes are being applied. This is
also normal. Maintaining a constant force on the pedal
will provide the shortest stopping distance.
Brake Pedal Travel
Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake System may
be stopped by applying normal force to the brake pedal.
Although there is no need to push the pedal beyond the
point where it stops or holds the vehicle, by applying more
force the pedal will continue to travel toward the floor.
This extra brake pedal travel is normal.
Acronyms and Abbreviations
Several acronyms and abbreviations are commonly used
throughout this section:
ABS
Anti-lock Brake System
CKT
Circuit
DLC
Data Link Connector
EHCU
Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit
FL
Front Left

6A–3
ENGINE MECHANICAL
General Description
Engine Cleanliness And Care
An automobile engine is a combination of many
machined, honed, polished and lapped surfaces with
tolerances that are measured in the thousandths of a
millimeter (ten thousandths of an inch). Accordingly,
when any internal engine parts are serviced, care and
cleanliness are important. Throughout this section, it
should be understood that proper cleaning and protection
of machined surfaces and friction areas is part of the
repair procedure. This is considered standard shop
practice even if not specifically stated.
A liberal coating of engine oil should be applied to all
friction areas during assembly to protect and lubricate
the surfaces on initial operation.
Whenever valve train components, pistons, piston
rings, connecting rods, rod bearings, and crankshaft
journal bearings are removed for service, they should
be retained in order.
At the time of installation, they should be installed in
the same locations and with the same mating
surfaces as when removed.
Battery cables should be disconnected before any
major work is performed on the engine. Failure to
disconnect cables may result in damage to wire
harness or other electrical parts.
The six cylinders of this engine are identified by
numbers; Right side cylinders 1, 3 and 5, Left side
cylinders 2, 4 and 6, as counted from crankshaft
pulley side to flywheel side.
General Information on Engine Service
The following information on engine service should be
noted carefully, as it is important in preventing damage
and contributing to reliable engine performance:
When raising or supporting the engine for any reason,
do not use a jack under the oil pan. Due to the small
clearance between the oil pan and the oil pump
strainer, jacking against the oil pan may cause
damage to the oil pick–up unit.
The 12–volt electrical system is capable of damaging
circuits. When performing any work where electrical
terminals could possibly be grounded, the ground
cable of the battery should be disconnected at the
battery.
Any time the intake air duct or air cleaner is removed,
the intake opening should be covered. This will
protect against accidental entrance of foreign
material into the cylinder which could cause extensive
damage when the engine is started.
Cylinder Block
The cylinder block is made of aluminum die–cast casting
for 75
V–type six cylinders. It has a rear plate integrated
structure and employs a deep skint. The cylinder liner is
cast and the liner inner diameter and crankshaft journal
diameter are classified into grades. The crankshaft is
supported by four bearings of which width of No.3 bearing
on the body side is different in order to support the thrust
bearing. The bearing cap is made of nodular cast iron and
each bearing cap uses four bolts and two side bolts.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head, made of aluminum alloy casting
employs a pent–roof type combustion chamber with a
spark plug in the center. The intake and exhaust valves
are placed in V–type design. The ports are cross–flow
type.
Va l v e Tr a i n
Intake and exhaust camshaft on the both side of banks
are driven through an camshaft drive gear by timing belt.
The valves are operated by the camshaft and the valve
clearance is adjusted to select suitable thickness shim.
Intake Manifold
The intake manifold system is composed of the aluminum
cast common chamber and intake manifold attached with
six fuel injectors.
Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold is made of nodular cast iron.
Pistons and Connecting Rods
Aluminum pistons are used after selecting the grade that
meets the cylinder bore diameter. Each piston has two
compression rings and one oil ring. The piston pin is made
of chromium steel is offset 1mm toward the thrust side,
and the thrust pressure of piston to the cylinder wall varies
gradually as the piston travels. The connecting rods are
made of forged steel. The connecting rod bearings are
graded for correct seze selection.
Crankshaft and Bearings
The crankshaft is made of Ductile cast–iron. Pins and
journals are graded for correct size selection for their
bearing.
Engine Lubrication
The oil discharged by a trochoid–type oil pump driven by
the crankshaft is fed through full–flow oil filter and to the oil
gallery provided under the crankshaft bearing cap. The oil
is then led to the crankshaft journals and cylinder head.
The crank pins are lubricated with oil from crankshaft
journals through oil holes. Also, an oil jet is fed to each
cylinder from crankshaft juornals on the connecting rod
for piston cleaning. The oil pan flange is dealed with liquid
packing only; do not deform or damage the flange surface
during removal or installation.

6A–5
ENGINE MECHANICAL
4. Engine Lacks Compression
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Engine lacks compressionSpark plug loosely fitted or spark
plug gasket defectiveTighten to specified torque or replace
gasket
Valve timing incorrectAdjust
Cylinder head gasket defectiveReplace gasket
Valve incorrectly seatedLap valve
Valve stem seizedReplace valve and valve guide
Valve spring weakened or brokenReplace
Cylinder or piston rings wornOverhaul engine
Piston ring seizedOverhaul engine.
Engine Compression Test Procedure
1. Start and run the engine until the engine reaches
normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off.
3. Remove all the spark plugs.
4. Remove ignition coil fuse (15A) and disable the
ignition system.
5. Remove the fuel pump relay from the relay and fuse
box.
6. Engage the starter and check that the cranking speed
is approximately 300 rpm.7. Install cylinder compression gauge into spark plug
hole.
8. With the throttle valve opened fully, keep the starter
engaged until the compression gage needle reaches
the maximum level. Note the reading.
9. Repeat the test with each cylinder.
If the compression pressure obtained falls below the
limit, engine overhaul is necessary.
Limit; 1000 kPa (145 psi)

6A–7
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
OthersEngine lacks compressionRefer to “Hard Start”
Valve incorrectly seatedLap valve
Air Cleaner Filter cloggedReplace filter element
Valve timing incorrectReadjust
Idle air control valve brokenReplace
Fast idle solenoid defectiveReplace
Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve
defective or cloggedReplace
Rough Engine Running
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Engine misfires periodicallyIgnition coil layer shortedReplace
Spark plugs foulingClean or install hotter type plug
Spark plug(s) insulator nose leakingReplace
Fuel injector(s) defectiveReplace
Powertrain control module faultyReplace
Engine knocks periodicallySpark plugs running too hotInstall colder type spark plugs
Powertrain control module faultyReplace
Engine lacks powerSpark plugs fouledClean
Fuel injectors defectiveReplace
Mass Airflow Sensor or Intake
Airflow Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor or Manifold Absolute
Pressure Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
or Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Powertrain Control Module faultyReplace
Intake Air Temperature Sensor or
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle
Position Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Knock Sensor or Knock Sensor
circuits defectiveCorrect or replace
Knock Sensor Module or Knock
Sensor Module circuits defectiveCorrect or replace

6A–10
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Engine Lacks Power
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Trouble in fuel systemFuel Pressure Control Valve not
working normallyReplace
Fuel injector cloggedClean or replace
Fuel pipe cloggedClean
Fuel filter clogged or fouledReplace
Fuel pump drive circuit not working
normallyCorrect or replace
Fuel tank not sufficiently breathing
due to clogged Evaporative
Emission Control System circuitClean or replace
Water in fuel systemClean
Inferior quality fuel in fuel systemUse fuel of specified octane rating
Powertrain Control Module supplied
poor voltageCorrect circuit
Throttle Position Sensor cable
broken or poor connectionsCorrect or replace
Throttle Position Sensor defectiveReplace
Mass Airflow Sensor not working
normallyReplace
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
not working normallyReplace
Intake Air Temperature Sensor not
working normallyReplace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
defectiveReplace
Powertrain Control Module defectiveReplace
Trouble in intake or exhaust systemAir Cleaner Filter cloggedReplace filter element
Air duct kinked or flattenedCorrect or replace
Ignition failure————Refer to Hard Start Troubleshooting
Guide
Heat range of spark plug inadequateInstall spark plugs of adequate heat
range
Ignition coil defectiveReplace

6A–11
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
Engine overheatingLevel of Engine Coolant too lowReplenish
Fan clutch defectiveReplace
Incorrect fan installedReplace
Thermostat defectiveReplace
Engine Coolant pump defectiveCorrect or replace
Radiator cloggedClean or replace
Radiator filler cap defectiveReplace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
low or wrong engine oilChange or replenish
Resistance in exhaust system
increasedClean exhaust system or replace
defective parts
Throttle Position Sensor adjustment
incorrectReplace with Throttle Valve ASM
Throttle Position Sensor circuit open
or shortedCorrect or replace
Cylinder head gasket damagedReplace
Engine overcoolingThermostat defectiveReplace (Use a thermostat set to
open at 82
C (180F))
Engine lacks compression————Refer to Hard Start
OthersTire inflation pressure abnormalAdjust to recommended pressures
Brake dragAdjust
Clutch slippingAdjust or replace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
highCorrect level of engine oil
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
defectiveReplace
Engine Noisy
Abnormal engine noise often consists of various noises
originating in rotating parts, sliding parts and othermoving parts of the engine. It is, therefore, advisable to
locate the source of noise systematically.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Noise from crank journals or from
crank bearings
(Faulty crank journals and crankOil clearance increased due to worn
crank journals or crank bearingsReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
yj
bearings usually make dull noise that
becomes more evident when
accelerating)Crankshaft out of roundReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
Crank bearing seizedCrank bearing seized. Replace crank
bearings and crankshaft or regrind
crankshaft and install the undersize
bearing
Troubleshooting Procedure
Short out each spark plug in sequence using insulated
spark plug wire removers. Locate cylinder with defectivebearing by listening for abnormal noise that stops when
spark plug is shorted out.

6A–14
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
Trouble in emission control systemHeated Oxygen Sensor circuit openCorrect or replace
Heated Oxygen Sensor defectiveReplace
Signal vacuum hose loosely fitted or
defectiveCorrect or replace
EGR Valve circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
defectiveReplace
ECT Sensor circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Canister Purge Valve circuit open or
shortedCorrect or replace
Canister Purge Valve defectiveReplace
ECT Sensor defectiveReplace
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) valve and hose cloggedCorrect or replace
Evaporator systemRefer to Section 6E
Trouble in ignition system————Refer to “Engine Lacks Power”
Trouble in cylinder head partsCarbon deposits in combustion
chamberRemove carbon
Carbon deposit on valve, valve seat
and valve guideRemove carbon
Engine Oil Consumption Excessive
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil leakingOil pan drain plug looseRetighten or replace gasket
Crankcase fixing bolts loosenedRetighten
Oil pan setting bolts loosenedRetighten
Oil pan gasket brokenReplace gasket
Front cover retaining bolts loose or
gasket brokenRetighten or replace gasket
Head cover fixing bolts loose or
gasket brokenRetighten or replace gasket
Oil cooler adapter crackedReplace
Oil cooler center bolt looseRetighten
Oil cooler O–ring brokenReplace
Oil cooler piping loose or brokenRetighten or replace
Oil filter adapter crackedReplace
Oil filter attaching bolt loose or rubber
gasket brokenRetighten or replace oil filter
Oil cooler brokenReplace
Crankshaft front or rear oil seal
defectiveReplace oil seal
Oil pressure unit loose or brokenRetighten or replace
Blow–by gas hose brokenReplace hose
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve
cloggedClean
Engine/Transmission coupling failedReplace oil seal

6A–16
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Lubrication Problems
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil pressure too lowWrong oil in useReplace with correct engine oil
Relief valve stickingReplace
Oil pump not operating properlyCorrect or replace
Oil pump strainer cloggedClean or replace strainer
Oil pump wornReplace
Oil pressure gauge defectiveCorrect or replace
Crankshaft bearing or connecting
rod bearing wornReplace
Oil contaminationWrong oil in useReplace with correct engine oil
Oil filter cloggedReplace oil filter
Cylinder head gasket damageReplace gasket
Burned gases leakingReplace piston and piston rings or
cylinder body assembly
Oil not reaching valve systemOil passage in cylinder head or
cylinder body cloggedClean or correct
Engine Oil Pressure Check
1. Check for dirt, gasoline or water in the engine oil.
a. Check the viscosity of the oil.
b. Change the oil if the viscosity is outside the
specified standard.
c. Refer to the “Maintenance and Lubrication” section
of this manual.
2. Check the engine oil level.
The level should fall somewhere between the “ADD”
and the “FULL” marks on the oil level dipstick.
If the oil level does not reach the “ADD” mark on the
oil level dipstick, engine oil must be added.3. Remove the oil pressure unit.
4. Install an oil pressure gauge.
5. Start the engine and allow the engine to reach normal
operating temperature (About 80
C).
6. Measure the oil pressure.
Oil pressure should be:
392–550 kPa (56.9–80.4 psi) at 3000 rpm.
7. Stop the engine.
8. Remove the oil pressure gauge.
9. Install the oil pressure unit.
10. Start the engine and check for leaks.