oil pump OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Workshop Manual

14. Attach the compressor to the J-34992 holding
fixture and mount the compressor in a vise so that
the compressor will be in a horizontal position and
the shaft can be turned with a wrench.
15. Using a wrench, rotate the compressor crankshaft
or drive plate hub ten complete revolutions at a
speed of approximately one-revolution per second
turning the compressor at less than one-revolution
per second can result in a lower pump-up pressure
and disqualify a good pumping compressor.
16. Observe the reading on high-pressure gauge at the
completion of the tenth revolution of the
compressor. The pressure reading for a good
pumping compressor should be 690 kPa (100 psi)
or above. A pressure reading of less than 620 kPa
(90 psi) would indicate one or more suction and/or
discharge valves leaking an internal leak, or an
inoperative valve, and the refrigerant must be
recovered and the compressor disassembled and
checked for cause of leak. Repair as needed,
reassemble and repeat the pump-up test. Externally
leak test.
17. When the pressure pump-up test is completed,
recover the refrigerant from the high-side and
remove the test plate J-39893.
18. Tilt the compressor so that the compressor suction
and discharge ports are down. Drain the PAG
lubricant from the compressor.
19. Allow the compressor to drain for 10 minutes, then
refill with the proper amount of PAG lubricant, per
oil balance procedure described previously. The
PAG lubricant may be poured into the suction port.
If further assembly or processing is required, a
shipping plate or test plate J-39893 should be
installed to keep out air, dirt and moisture until the
compressor is installed.

4D2–18
TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
Sprocket and Mechanical Lock
Disassembled View
266RW008
Legend
(1) Strainer
(2) Hose
(3) Oil Pump Assembly
(4) Thrust Washer
(5) Mechanical Lock Hub
(6) Lock-up Sleeve(7) Lock-up Fork
(8) Chain
(9) Lower Drive Sprocket
(10) Front Tone Wheel
(11) Drive Sprocket
(12) Sprocket Spacer
Disassembly
1. Remove the sprocket spacer.
2. Remove the front tone wheel.

4D2–19 TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
3. Remove the drive sprocket, lower drive sprocket, and
chain together from the front and rear output shafts.
266RW010
4. Remove the mechanical lock hub.
5. Remove the lock-up fork.
6. Remove the spring retainer from the connection
between rail shaft and lock-up fork.
7. Remove the lock-up sleeve.
261RW018
8. Remove the thrust washer.
9. Remove the magnet from the strainer set position
together with the oil pump assembly.
10. Remove the strainer from the oil pump assembly.
11. Remove the hose from the oil pump assembly.

4D2–28
TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
Tension of Lock-up Fork Spring
If the measurement exceeds the limit, replace the
spring. (When compressed to 41.4 mm)
Standard : 27.1-33.8 N {2.76-3.45 kg/6.08-7.61 Ib}
Allowable limit : 24.5 N {2.5 kg/5.5 Ib}
014RW048
Tension of Detent Spring Assembly
If the measurement exceeds the limit, replace the
spring. N {kg} (When compressed by 3 mm from the
free length)
Standard : 139 N -203 {14.2-20.7 kg/31.3-45.6 Ib}
Allowable limit : 130 N {13.3 kg/29.3 Ib}
261RW041
Oil Pump
Remove foreign materials from the strainer. If the
strainer is damaged, replace it.
If the area into which the shaft is inserted is
excessively worn or damaged, replace the pump.
Multi Plate Disk Clutch
If the burned, mirror-surfaced clutch facing, or
scraping is observed on the clutch plates, clutch
housing, armature plate, and insulator washer,
replace the part or parts.
266RW003
Coil Assembly
Check the resistance of the coil with a tester. If
defects are observed, replace the assembly.
* (ordinary temperature)
Standard : 1.4
2.0
Allowable limit : 1.05.0
261RW031

4D2–37 TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
Sprocket and Mechanical Lock
Disassembled View
266RW008
Legend
(1) Strainer
(2) Hose
(3) Oil Pump Assembly
(4) Thrust Washer
(5) Mechanical Lock Hub
(6) Lock-up Sleeve(7) Lock-up Fork
(8) Chain
(9) Lower Drive Sprocket
(10) Front Tone Wheel
(11) Drive Sprocket
(12) Sprocket Spacer
Reassembly
1. Connect the hose and strainer to the oil pump
assembly.
2. Install the oil pump assembly to the output shaft and
set the magnet to the strainer position.
3. Install the thrust washer.
4. Install the spring to the lock-up fork.

5A–4
BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM
normal braking when a malfunction has occurred in the
ABS.
The EHCU has a self-diagnosing function which can
indicate faulty circuits during diagnosis.
The EHCU is mounted on the engine compartment front
right side. It consists of a Motor, Plunger Pump, Solenoid
Valves and Check Valve.
On the outside, the relay box containing a motor relay and
a valve relay is installed.
Solenoid Valves: Reduces or holds the caliper fluid
pressure for each front disc brake or both rear disc brakes
according to the signal sent from the EHCU.
Reservoir: Temporarily holds the brake fluid that returns
from the front and rear disc brake caliper so that pressure
of front disc brake caliper can be reduced smoothly.
Plunger Pump: Feeds the brake fluid held in the reservoir
to the master cylinder.
Motor: Drives the pump according to the signal from
EHCU.
Check Valve: Controls the brake fluid flow.
ABS Warning Light
821RW033Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake System have
an amber “ABS” warning light in the instrument panel.
The “ABS” warning light will illuminate if a malfunction in
the Anti-lock Brake System is detected by the Electronic
Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU). In case of an electronic
malfunction, the EHCU will turn “ON” the “ABS” warning
light and disable the Anti-lock braking function.
The “ABS” light will turn “ON” for approximately three
seconds after the ignition switch is to the “ON” position.
If the “ABS” light stays “ON” after the ignition switch is the
“ON” position, or comes “ON” and stays “ON” while
driving, the Anti-lock Brake System should be inspected
for a malfunction according to the diagnosis procedure.
Wheel Speed Sensor
It consists of a sensor and a rotor. The sensor is attached
to the knuckle on the front wheels and to the axle shaft
bearing holder on the rear wheels.
The rotor is press-fit in the axle shaft.The flux generated from electrodes magnetized by a
magnet in the sensor varies due to rotation of the rotor,
and the electromagnetic induction generates alternating
voltage in the coil. This voltage draws a “sine curve” with
the frequency proportional to rotor speed and it allows
detection of wheel speed.
G-Sensor
The G-sensor installed inside the center console detects
the vehicle deceleration speed and sends a signal to the
EHCU. In 4WD operation, all four wheels may be
decelerated in almost the same phase, since all wheels
are connected mechanically.
This tendency is noticeable particularly on roads with low
friction coefficient, and the ABS control is adversely
affected.
The G-sensor judges whether the friction coefficient of
road surface is low or high, and changes the EHCU’s
operating system to ensure ABS control.
Normal and Anti-lock Braking
Under normal driving conditions, the Anti-lock Brake
System functions the same as a standard power assisted
brake system. However, with the detection of wheel
lock-up, a slight bump or kick-back will be felt in the brake
pedal. This pedal “bump” will be followed by a series of
short pedal pulsations which occurs in rapid succession.
The brake pedal pulsation will continue until there is no
longer a need for the anti-lock function or until the vehicle
is stopped. A slight ticking or popping noise may be heard
during brake applications when the Anti-lock features is
being used.
When the Anti-lock feature is being used, the brake pedal
may rise even as the brakes are being applied. This is
also normal. Maintaining a constant force on the pedal
will provide the shortest stopping distance.
Brake Pedal Travel
Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake System may
be stopped by applying normal force to the brake pedal.
Although there is no need to push the pedal beyond the
point where it stops or holds the vehicle, by applying more
force the pedal will continue to travel toward the floor.
This extra brake pedal travel is normal.
Acronyms and Abbreviations
Several acronyms and abbreviations are commonly used
throughout this section:
ABS
Anti-lock Brake System
CKT
Circuit
DLC
Data Link Connector
EHCU
Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit
FL
Front Left

6A–3
ENGINE MECHANICAL
General Description
Engine Cleanliness And Care
An automobile engine is a combination of many
machined, honed, polished and lapped surfaces with
tolerances that are measured in the thousandths of a
millimeter (ten thousandths of an inch). Accordingly,
when any internal engine parts are serviced, care and
cleanliness are important. Throughout this section, it
should be understood that proper cleaning and protection
of machined surfaces and friction areas is part of the
repair procedure. This is considered standard shop
practice even if not specifically stated.
A liberal coating of engine oil should be applied to all
friction areas during assembly to protect and lubricate
the surfaces on initial operation.
Whenever valve train components, pistons, piston
rings, connecting rods, rod bearings, and crankshaft
journal bearings are removed for service, they should
be retained in order.
At the time of installation, they should be installed in
the same locations and with the same mating
surfaces as when removed.
Battery cables should be disconnected before any
major work is performed on the engine. Failure to
disconnect cables may result in damage to wire
harness or other electrical parts.
The six cylinders of this engine are identified by
numbers; Right side cylinders 1, 3 and 5, Left side
cylinders 2, 4 and 6, as counted from crankshaft
pulley side to flywheel side.
General Information on Engine Service
The following information on engine service should be
noted carefully, as it is important in preventing damage
and contributing to reliable engine performance:
When raising or supporting the engine for any reason,
do not use a jack under the oil pan. Due to the small
clearance between the oil pan and the oil pump
strainer, jacking against the oil pan may cause
damage to the oil pick–up unit.
The 12–volt electrical system is capable of damaging
circuits. When performing any work where electrical
terminals could possibly be grounded, the ground
cable of the battery should be disconnected at the
battery.
Any time the intake air duct or air cleaner is removed,
the intake opening should be covered. This will
protect against accidental entrance of foreign
material into the cylinder which could cause extensive
damage when the engine is started.
Cylinder Block
The cylinder block is made of aluminum die–cast casting
for 75
V–type six cylinders. It has a rear plate integrated
structure and employs a deep skint. The cylinder liner is
cast and the liner inner diameter and crankshaft journal
diameter are classified into grades. The crankshaft is
supported by four bearings of which width of No.3 bearing
on the body side is different in order to support the thrust
bearing. The bearing cap is made of nodular cast iron and
each bearing cap uses four bolts and two side bolts.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head, made of aluminum alloy casting
employs a pent–roof type combustion chamber with a
spark plug in the center. The intake and exhaust valves
are placed in V–type design. The ports are cross–flow
type.
Va l v e Tr a i n
Intake and exhaust camshaft on the both side of banks
are driven through an camshaft drive gear by timing belt.
The valves are operated by the camshaft and the valve
clearance is adjusted to select suitable thickness shim.
Intake Manifold
The intake manifold system is composed of the aluminum
cast common chamber and intake manifold attached with
six fuel injectors.
Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold is made of nodular cast iron.
Pistons and Connecting Rods
Aluminum pistons are used after selecting the grade that
meets the cylinder bore diameter. Each piston has two
compression rings and one oil ring. The piston pin is made
of chromium steel is offset 1mm toward the thrust side,
and the thrust pressure of piston to the cylinder wall varies
gradually as the piston travels. The connecting rods are
made of forged steel. The connecting rod bearings are
graded for correct seze selection.
Crankshaft and Bearings
The crankshaft is made of Ductile cast–iron. Pins and
journals are graded for correct size selection for their
bearing.
Engine Lubrication
The oil discharged by a trochoid–type oil pump driven by
the crankshaft is fed through full–flow oil filter and to the oil
gallery provided under the crankshaft bearing cap. The oil
is then led to the crankshaft journals and cylinder head.
The crank pins are lubricated with oil from crankshaft
journals through oil holes. Also, an oil jet is fed to each
cylinder from crankshaft juornals on the connecting rod
for piston cleaning. The oil pan flange is dealed with liquid
packing only; do not deform or damage the flange surface
during removal or installation.

6A–4
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Engine Diagnosis
Hard Starting
1. Starting Motor Does Not Turn Over
Troubleshooting Procedure
Turn on headlights and starter switch.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Headlights go out or dim
considerably
Battery run down or under chargedRecharge or replace battery
considerablyTerminals poorly connectedClean battery posts and terminals
and connect properly
Starting motor coil circuit shortedOverhaul or replace
Starting motor defectiveOverhaul or replace
2. Ignition Trouble — Starting Motor Turns Over But Engine Does Not Start
Spark Test
Disconnect an igniton coil from any spark plug. Connect
the spark plug tester 5–8840–0607–0, start the engine,
a n d c h e c k i f a s p a r k i s g e n e r a t e d in t h e s p a r k p l u g t e s t e r.
Before starting the engine, make sure that the spark plugtester is properly grounded. To avoid electrical shock, do
not touch the part where insulation of the igniton coil is
broken while the engine is running.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Spark jumps across gapSpark plug defectiveClean, adjust spark gap or replace
Ignition timing incorrectRefer to Ignition System
Fuel not reaching fuel injector(s) or
engineRefer to item 3 (Trouble in fuel
system)
Valve timing incorrectAdjust
Engine lacks compressionRefer to item 4 (Engine lacks
compression)
No sparking takes placeIgnition coil disconnected or brokenConnect properly or replace
Electronic Ignition System with
moduleReplace
Poor connections in engine harnessCorrect
Powertrain Control Module cable
disconnected or defectiveCorrect or replace
3. Trouble In Fuel System
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Starting motor turns over and spark
occurs but engine does not start
Fuel tank emptyFill
occurs but engine does not start.Water in fuel systemClean
Fuel filter cloggedReplace filter
Fuel pipe cloggedClean or replace
Fuel pump defectiveReplace
Fuel pump circuit openCorrect or replace
Evaporative Emission Control
System circuit cloggedCorrect or replace
Multiport Fuel Injection System faultyRefer to “Electronic Fuel Injection”
section

6A–5
ENGINE MECHANICAL
4. Engine Lacks Compression
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Engine lacks compressionSpark plug loosely fitted or spark
plug gasket defectiveTighten to specified torque or replace
gasket
Valve timing incorrectAdjust
Cylinder head gasket defectiveReplace gasket
Valve incorrectly seatedLap valve
Valve stem seizedReplace valve and valve guide
Valve spring weakened or brokenReplace
Cylinder or piston rings wornOverhaul engine
Piston ring seizedOverhaul engine.
Engine Compression Test Procedure
1. Start and run the engine until the engine reaches
normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off.
3. Remove all the spark plugs.
4. Remove ignition coil fuse (15A) and disable the
ignition system.
5. Remove the fuel pump relay from the relay and fuse
box.
6. Engage the starter and check that the cranking speed
is approximately 300 rpm.7. Install cylinder compression gauge into spark plug
hole.
8. With the throttle valve opened fully, keep the starter
engaged until the compression gage needle reaches
the maximum level. Note the reading.
9. Repeat the test with each cylinder.
If the compression pressure obtained falls below the
limit, engine overhaul is necessary.
Limit; 1000 kPa (145 psi)

6A–10
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Engine Lacks Power
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Trouble in fuel systemFuel Pressure Control Valve not
working normallyReplace
Fuel injector cloggedClean or replace
Fuel pipe cloggedClean
Fuel filter clogged or fouledReplace
Fuel pump drive circuit not working
normallyCorrect or replace
Fuel tank not sufficiently breathing
due to clogged Evaporative
Emission Control System circuitClean or replace
Water in fuel systemClean
Inferior quality fuel in fuel systemUse fuel of specified octane rating
Powertrain Control Module supplied
poor voltageCorrect circuit
Throttle Position Sensor cable
broken or poor connectionsCorrect or replace
Throttle Position Sensor defectiveReplace
Mass Airflow Sensor not working
normallyReplace
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
not working normallyReplace
Intake Air Temperature Sensor not
working normallyReplace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
defectiveReplace
Powertrain Control Module defectiveReplace
Trouble in intake or exhaust systemAir Cleaner Filter cloggedReplace filter element
Air duct kinked or flattenedCorrect or replace
Ignition failure————Refer to Hard Start Troubleshooting
Guide
Heat range of spark plug inadequateInstall spark plugs of adequate heat
range
Ignition coil defectiveReplace