key PONTIAC FIERO 1988 Service Owner's Guide

1 -HOUSING. STEERING GEAR 2 --RACE. THRUST BEAPING (WORM) 3 -BEARING ASSY . ROLLER THRUST (WORM) 4 -RACE. THRUST BEARING IWORMI 5 ~-WORM. STEERING 6 - SEAL. "0" RlNG lSTUB SHAFTI 7 SHAFT. STUB 8 - SPOOL. VALVE 9 SEAL. "0" RlNG ISPOOL) I0 - BODY. VALVE I I - RING. VALVE 80DY (3) 12 -SEAL. "0" RlNG (VALVE BODY) (31 I3 - RETAINER. BEARING (ADJUSTER)
I4 - SPACER. THRUST BEARING
IS - RACE. UPPER THRIJST BEARING (SMALL) I6 -BEARING. UPPER THRUST
Ti I7 - RACE. UPPER THRUST BEARING (LARGE)
5- I8 -- SEAL, "0" RlNG IADIUSTERI C
Krv Ue Pert Nemc I9 - PLUG. ADJUSTER 20 - BEARING. NEEDLE 21 -- SEAL. STUB SHAFT 21 - SEAL. STUB SHAFT DUST 23 - RING. RETAINING 24 - NUT. ADJUSTER PLUG LOCK 25 - BEARiNG ASSY . NEEDLE (PITMAN SHAFT) 26 - SEAL. PITMAN SHAFT (SINGLE LIP) 27 - WASHER, SEAL BACK-UP (PITMAN SHAFT)
28-SEAL. PITMAN SHAFT (DOUBLE LIP) 29 - VtASHER. SEAL BACK-UP (PITMAN SHAFT) 30 -RING RETAINING (PITMAN SHAFT SEAL)
31 -WASHER. PITMAN SHAFT LOCK 32 -NUT. PITMAN SHAFT 33 - NUT RACK PISTON 34 - BALL 35 -GUIDE. BALL RETURN (21 36 -CLAMP BALL RETURN GUIDE
Key No Pan Nrme 37 SCREW ASSY LOCKWASHER 8 (21 38 PLUG RACK PISTON 39 SEAL 0 RING (RACK PISTON) 40 RlNG RACK PISTON 41 SEAL 0 RlNG (HOUSING END PLUG, 42 PLUG HOUSING END 43 RING RETAINING iHOULlNG END PLUG 44 GEAR ASSY PITMAN SHAFT
45 SEAL ASSY GASKET
46 COVER ASSY HOUSING SlDE 4/ BOLT HEX HEAD ISIDE COVER) 14 48 NUT LASh ADJUSTER 49 SPRING CHECK VALVE 50 POPPET CHECK VALVE 51 -CONNECTOR INVERTED FLARE 52 -CONNECTOR INVERTED FLARE 53 BOLT COUPLING PINCH 54 COUPLING STEERING SHAFT

BRAKES 5-17
maintaining proper wheel balance, brake drums should be
checked for balance. Brake drums may be checked for
balance on most off-the-car balancers.
COMBINATION VALVE
Testing Combination Valve Electrical Circuit
When removing the electrical wire connector from the
pressure differential switch, squeeze the
eliptical shaped
plastic locking ring and pull up. This will move the locking
tangs away from the switch. Pliers can be used to help
remove the connector.
1. Disconnect wire from switch terminal and use a
jumper to connect wire to a good ground.
2. Turn ignition key to "ON." The warning lamp should
light. If lamp does not light, bulb is burned out or
electrical circuit is faulty. Replace bulb or repair elec-
trical circuit as necessary.
3. When warning lamp lights, turn off ignition switch.
Disconnect jumper and connect wire to switch termi-
nal.
Testing Combination Valve Warning Lamp Switch
1. Attach a bleeder hose to a rear brake bleed screw and
immerse the other end of the hose in a container
partially filled with clean brake fluid. Be sure master
cylinder reservoirs are full.
2. Turn ignition switch to "ON." Open bleeder screw
while an assistant applies moderate pressure to the
brake pedal. Warning lamp should light. Close
bleeder screw before assistant releases brake pedal.
Apply brake pedal with moderate-to-heavy pressure.
Lamp should go out.
3. Attach the bleeder hose to a front brake bleeder
screw and repeat steps
1 and 2. Warning lamp action
should be the same as in step
2. Turn off ignition
switch.
4. If warning lamp does not light during steps 2 and 3,
but does light when a jumper is connected to ground,
the warning lamp switch portion of the combination
valve is faulty. Do not disassemble the combination
valve.
If any portion of the combination valve is faulty,
it must be replaced with a new combination valve.
Combination Valve Replacement
Remove or Disconnect (Figure
16)
r The combination valve is not repairable and must be
serviced as a complete assembly.
1. Hydraulic pipes at combination valve.
Plug pipes to prevent loss of fluid and entrance
of dirt.
2. Wiring harness from valve switch terminal.
3. Nut attaching valve to power booster.
4. Combination valve.
@ Install or Connect (Figure 16)
NOTICE: See "Notice" on page 5-1.
1. Combination valve.
2. Nut attaching valve to power booster.
Tighten
* Nut to 24 N.m (18 Ibs. ft.).
3. Wiring harness to valve switch terminal.
4. Hydraulic pipes at combination valve. * Bleed brakes. See "Bleeding Brake Hydraulic Sys-
tem" in this section.
CAUTION: Do not move the car until a firm brake
pedal is obtained. Air in the brake system can
cause loss of brakes.
POWER BRAKE VACUUM HOSE FILTER
See Figure 17.
COMBINATION VALVE ASM.
MASTER CYLINDER BRAKE PIPES
Figure 16 Combination Valve
2 FILTER 4. BOOSTER
Figure 17 Power Brake Vacuum Hose Filter (Typical)

2.8 LITER V-6 8A2-11
ENGAGE AT
Figure 6A2-1 1 Depressing Valve Spring
Figure
6A2-12 Valve Stem Seal
4. Using Tool J-5892 to compress the valve spring,
remove the valve locks, valve cap, oil shedder
(exhaust only) and valve spring and damper
(Figure
6A2- 1 1).
5. Remove the valve stem oil seal.
Installation
1. Set the valve spring and damper around the valve
guide boss.
2. Install a valve stem seal over the valve stem and
valve guide base inlet only. 3.
Drop an oil shedder and valve rotator over the
exhaust and a valve spring cap over the valve
spring.
4. Using Tool
5-5892, compress the valve spring.
5. Install the square cut "0" ring around the valve
stem in the lower groove, making sure it is not
twisted.
6. Insert valve stem key locks and release tool.
Figure 6A2-13 Oversize Lifter Marking
Valve Lifters (6A2-14)
Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require
attention. The lifters are extremely simple in design,
readjustments are not necessary, and servicing of the
lifters requires only that care and cleanliness be
exercised in the handling of parts. Valve lifters should
be kept in order so they may be reinstalled in their
original position. Some engines will have both standard
and
.010" oversize valve lifters.
The cylinder case will be marked, where the O.S.
lifters are used, with a dab of white paint and
0.25
(mm) O.S. stamped on the lifter boss (Figure 6A2- 13).
If for any reason, the lifters are removed, it is
important that all lifters be reinstalled in their original
location. If replacement is necessary, lifters with a
narrow flat along the lower 3/4 of the length should be
used. This provides additional area to the cam lobe and
lifter surfaces.
Removal
1. Remove rocker arm covers and intake manifold
as previously outlined.
2. Remove rocker arm nuts, rocker arm balls,
rocker arms and push rods. Place components in
a rack so they can be reinstalled in the same
location.
3. Remove lifters.
Installation
1. Install valve lifters. Whenever new valve lifters
are being installed, coat foot of valve lifters with
"Molykote" or its equivalent. Make sure lifter
foot is convex.
Lifter foot is very slightly convex. It can be
detected by holding a good straight edge to the
surface and looking into a light source.
2. Install intake manifold as previously outlined.
3. Install and adjust valve mechanism as previously
outlined.

2.8 LITER V.6 6A2.13
Torque bolts as shown in Figure 6A2-15.
4. Install
push rods and loosely retain with rocker
arms. Make sure lower ends of
pushrods are in
lifter seats.
5. Install intake manifold.
6. Raise vehicle.
7. Install dipstick tube bracket.
8. Connect exhaust pipe
to exhaust manifold flange.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Adjust
valve lash as previously outlined.
11. Continue
following intake manifold installation
for build up.
Removal (Right)
Remove intake manifold as previously outlined.
Raise vehicle.
Disconnect exhaust pipe.
Drain engine block.
Lower vehicle.
Loosen rocker arms until able to remove push
rod.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove tensioner.
Remove A.I.R. bracket.
Remove generator bracket.
Remove head bolts.
Remove head.
Installation (Right)
The gasket surfaces on both the head and cylinder
case
deck must be clean of any foreign matter and free
of nicks of heavy scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in the
case and threads on the cylinder head bolts must be
clean. Dirt will affect bolt torque.
1. Place the gasket in position, over the dowel pins,
with the note "This Side Up" showing.
2. Install cylinder head.
3. Coat cylinder head bolt threads with sealer,
#lo52080 or equivalent, and install bolts.
Torque bolts as shown in (Figure
6A2-15).
Install push rods and loosely retain with rocker
arms. Make sure lower ends of push rods are in
lifter seats.
Install intake manifold.
Raise vehicle.
Install exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold flange.
Lower vehicle.
Adjust valve lash as previously outlined.
Install AIR bracket.
Install tensioner.
Install generator bracket.
Continue following intake manifold installation
for build up.
Disassembly
1. With cylinder head removed, remove rocker arm
nuts, balls and rocker arms (if not previously
done).
2. Using tool J-8062, compress the valve springs and
remove valve keys. Release the compressor tool and
remove spring caps, oil shedders, springs and
damper assemblies, then remove oil seals.
3. Remove valves from cylinder head and place
them in a rack so they can be installed in their
original positions.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and
valve ports using 'tool
5-8089.
Thoroughly clean valve guides using 5-8 10 1.
Clean all carbon and sludge from push rods,
rocker arms and push rod guides.
Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel.
Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating
surface.
Inspect cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, or external cracks
to the water jacket.
Inspect the valves for burned heads, cracked faces
or damaged stems.
NOTICE: Excessive valve stem to bore clearance
will cause high oil consumption and may cause
valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in
noise and sticky functioning of the valve and
disturb engine smoothness.
8. Measure valve stem clearance as follows:
a. Clamp
a dial indicator on one side of the
cylinder head. Locate the indicator so that
movement of the valve stem from side to
side (crosswise to the head) will cause direct
movement of the indicator stem. The
indicator stem must contact the side of the
valve stem just above the guide.
b. Drop
the valve head
1.5mm off the valve
seat.
c. Move
the stem of the valve from side to side,
using light pressure, to obtain a clearance
reading. If clearance exceeds specifications,
it will be necessary to ream valve guides for
oversize valves. Service valves are available
in std., 089,
.394 and .775mm O.S. sizes.
9. Check
valve spring tension with tool J-8056,
spring tester. Springs should be compressed to the
specified height and checked against the
specifications chart. Springs should be replaced if
not within 44
N (10 Ibs.) of the specified load
(without dampers).
10. Inspect
rocker arm studs for wear or damage.
ROCKER ARM STUDS
Cylinder heads use threaded rocker arm studs.
Rocker arm studs that have damaged threads should
be replaced with new studs. If, for some reason, the
threads in the head
are damaged or stripped, the head
can be retapped, and a helical type insert added. If such
an insert is not available, the head should be replaced.
VALVE GUIDES
Valves with oversize stems are available in .089,
,394 and ,775mm over sizes. To ream the valve guide

BA2-14 2.8 LITER V-6
bores for oversize valves use tool 5-5330-1, 2 or 3,
respectively.
VALVE SEATS
Reconditioning the valve seats is very important,
because the seating of the valves must be perfect for the
engine to deliver the power and performance designed
into it.
Another important factor is the cooling of the
valve heads. Good contact between each valve and its
seat in the head is imperative to insure that the heat in
the valve head will be properly carried away.
Several different types of equipment are available
for reseating valve seats. The recommendations of the
manufacturer of the equipment being used should be
carefully followed to attain proper results.
VALVES
Valves that are pitted can be refaced, to the
proper angle, insuring correct relation between the
head and stem, on a valve
refacing machine. Valve
stems which show excessive wear, or valves that are
warped excessively should be replaced. When a valve
head which is warped excessively is
refaced, a knife
edge will be ground on part or all of the valve head due
to the amount of metal that must be removed to
completely
reface the valve. Knife edges lead to
breakage, burning or preignition due to heat localizing
on this knife edge. If the edge of the valve head is less
than
.8mm thick after grinding, replace the valve.
Several different types of equipment are available
for
refacing valves. The recommendations of the
manufacturer of the equipment being used should be
carefully followed to attain the proper results.
Assembly
Insert a valve in the proper port.
Install a valve stem seal over the valve stem and
valve guide base inlet only.
Drop an oil shedder and valve rotator over the
exhaust and a valve spring cap over the valve
spring.
Using tool
5-8062 compress the valve spring.
Install the square cut
"0" ring around the valve
stem in the lower groove, making sure it is not
twisted.
Insert valve, stem key locks and release tool.
Install the valve locks and release the compressor
tool making sure that the locks seat properly in
the upper groove of the valve stem. Grease may
be used to hold the locks in place while releasing
the compressor tool.
Install the remaining valves.
Check each valve stem oil seal by placing valve
stem leak detector, tool J-23994, over the end of
the valve stem and against the cap. Operate the
vacuum pump and make sure no air leaks pass the
seal.
Check the installed height of the valve springs,
using
a narrow thin scale. Measure from the top
of the spring damper "feet" to the bottom inside
of the oil shedder exhaust and from the top of the
spring damper "feet" to the bottom of the valve
Figure 6A2-16 Checking Valve Spring Installed Height
cap for intake. If this is found to exceed the
specified height, install valve spring seat shim
approximately
.75mm thick. At no time should
the spring be shimmed to give an installed height
under the
minumum specified of 40mm.
TORSIONAL DAMPER
NOTICE: The inertial weight section of the
torsional damper is assembled to the hub with a
rubber sleeve. The removal and installation
procedures (with proper tools) must be followed or
movement of the inertia weight section the hub
will destroy the tuning of the torsional damper and
the engine timing reference.
Removal
1.
Disconnect battery negative cable at battery.
2. Remove serpentine drive belt.
3. Raise vehicle.
4. Remove drive pulley and remove damper
retaining bolt.
5. Install Tool J-23523 on damper and then turning
puller screw, remove damper.
Installation ,
1.
Coat front cover seal contact area (on damper)
with engine oil.
2. Place damper in position over key on crankshaft.
3. Pull damper onto crankshaft as follows:
a. Install
Tool J-29 1 13 into crankshaft so that
at least 6mm of thread engagement is
obtained.
b. Pull damper into position and remove tool
from damper.
4. Install drive pulley and damper retaining bolts.
Torque to specifications.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Install serpentine belt.
7. Connect battery negative cable.

6A3-12 V-8 ENGINE
Fig. 6A3-15 Cylinder Head
2. Remove generator lower mounting bolt and lay
unit aside.
3. Remove exhaust manifolds as previously
outlined.
4. Remove rocker arm covers as previously
outlined.
5. Remove valve mechanism as previously outlined.
6. Drain cylinder block of coolant.
7. Remove diverter valve.
8. Remove cylinder head bolts, cylinder head and
gasket. Place cylinder head on two blocks of
wood to prevent damage.
Disassembly
1. With cylinder head removed, remove valve
rocker arm nuts, balls and rocker arms (if not
previously done).
2. Using Tool
5-8062, compress the valve springs
(fig.
6A3-16) and remove valve keys. Release the
compressor tool and remove rotators or spring caps, oil shedders,
springs and spring damper,
then remove oil seals and valve spring shims.
3. Remove valves from cylinder head and place
them in a rack in their proper sequence so that
they can be assembled in their original positions.
Cleaning I
1. Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and
valve ports using Tool J-8089 (fig.
6A3-17).
2. Thoroughly clean the valve guides using Tool
5-8101.
3. Clean
all carbon and sludge from push rods,
rocker arms and push rod guides.
4. Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel.
5. Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating
surface.
Inspection I
1. Inspect
the cylinder head for cracks in the
exhaust ports, combustion chambers, or external
cracks to the water chamber.
2. Inspect the valves for burned heads, cracked faces
or damaged stems.
e Excessive valve stem to bore clearance will
cause excessive oil consumption and may
cause valve breakage. Insufficient clearance
will result in noisy and sticky functioning of
the valve and disturb engine smoothness.
3. Measure valve stem clearance (Fig. 6A3-19) as
follows:
a. Clamp a dial indicator
on one side of the
cylinder head rocker arm cover gasket rail.
b. Locate
the indicator so that movement of
the valve stem from side to side (crosswise
to the head) will cause a direct movement
of the indicator stem. The indicator stem
must contact the side of the valve stem just
above the valve guide.
c. Drop
the valve head about 1/16"
(1.6mm)
off the valve seat.
d. Move the stem of the valve from side to side
using light pressure to obtain a clearance

V-8 ENGINE 6A3-15
engine to deliver the power and performance built into
it.
Another important factor is the cooling of the
valve heads. Good contact between each valve and its
seat in the head is imperative to insure that the heat in
the valve head will be properly carried away.
Several different types of equipment are available
for reseating valves seats. The recommendations of the
manufacturer of the equipment being used should be
carefully followed to attain proper results.
Regardless of what type of equipment is used,
however, it is essential that valve guide bores be free
from carbon or dirt to ensure proper centering of pilot
in the guide. Valve seats should be concentric to within
,002" total indicator reading.
VALVES
Valves that are pitted can be refaced to the proper
angle, insuring correct relation between the head and
stem on a valve
refacing mechanism. Valve stems
which show excessive wear, or valves that are warped
excessively should be replaced. When a valve head
which is warped excessively is
refaced, a knife edge will
be ground on part or all of the valve head due to the
amount of metal that must be removed to completely
reface. Knife edges lead to breakage, burning or
pre-ignition due to heat localizing on this knife edge.
If the edge of the valve head is less than 1/32"
(.08mm)
thick after grinding, replace the valve. Several different
types of equipment are available for
refacing valves.
The recommendation of the manufacturer of the
equipment being used should be carefully followed to
attain proper results.
TORSIONAL DAMPER
Removal
1.
Remove drive belts and pulley.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Remove crankshaft pulley, then remove damper
retaining bolt.
4. Install Tool J-23523 on damper then, turning
puller screw, remove damper.
Installation
NOTICE: The inertial weight section of the
torsional damper is assembled to the hub with a
rubber type material. The installation procedures
(with proper tool) must be followed or movement
of the inertia weight section on the hub will
destroy the tuning of the torsional damper.
1. Inspect the cover seal contact area surface (on
damper) for damage or grooving and coat front
cover seal with engine oil.
2. Place damper in position over key on crankshaft.
3. Pull damper onto crankshaft as follows:
a. Install appropriate threaded end of Tool
J-23523 into crankshaft. Install tool in
crankshaft so that at least
1/2" (13mm) of
thread engagement is obtained.
Fig. 6A3-26 Installing Torsional Damper
b.
Install plate, thrust bearing and nut to
complete tool installation.
c. Pull damper into position as shown in
Figure 6A3-26.
d. Remove tool from crankshaft then install
damper retaining bolt and torque to
specifications.
4. Install crankshaft pulley.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Install drive belts and adjust to specifications.
CRANKCASE FRONT COVER (FIG. 6A3-27)
Removal
1.
Remove torsional damper as previously outlined.
2. Remove oil pan.
3. Remove water pump as outlined in Section
6B.
4. Remove crankcase front cover attaching screws
and remove front cover and gasket, then discard
gasket.
lnstallation
1. Clean gasket surface on block and crankcase
front cover.

6D2-2 CRANKING SYSTEM
1-SWIFT LEVER m
SPRING 17-FLYWHEEL I
I G20198-6D
Fig. 1 Cranking Circuit - 5MT or PMGR
PROBLEM CAUSE - 1. HIGH PITCHED WHINE DURING CRANKING (BEFORE DISTANCE
TOO GREAT BETWEEN STARTER PINION AND
ENGINE FIRES) BUT ENGINE CRANKS AND FIRES FLYWHEEL.
OKAY - 2. HlGH PITCHED "WHINE"
AFTER ENGINE FIRES, AS
KEY IS BEING RELEASED. ENGINE CRANKS AND
FIRES OKAY. THlS INTERMITTENT COMPLAINT IS
OFTEN DIAGNOSED AS "STARTER HANG-IN"
OR "SOLENOID WEAK."
3. A LOUD "WHOOP" AFTER THE ENGINE FIRES BUT
WHILE THE STARTER IS STILL HELD ENGAGED.
SOUNDS
LIKE A SIREN IF THE ENGINE IS REVVED
WHILE STARTER IS ENGAGED.
4. A "RUMBLE. "GROWL" OR (IN SEVERE CASES) A
"KNOCK" AS THE STARTER IS COASTING DOWN TO
A STOP AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE. DISTANCE
TOO
SMALL BETWEEN STARTER PINION AND
FLYWHEEL. FLYWHEEL RUNOUT CONTRIBUTES TO THE
INTERMITTENT NATURE.
MOST PROBABLE CAUSE IS A DEFECTIVE CLUTCH. A NEW
CLUTCH
WlLL OFTEN CORRECT THlS PROBLEM.
MOST PROBABLE CAUSE IS A BENT OR UNBALANCED
STARTER ARMATURE. A NEW ARMATURE
WlLL OFTEN
CORRECT THlS PROBLEM.
620026.60
Fig. 2 Starter Motor Noise Diagnosis
location will decrease the clearance by is known to be functioning properly, remove the motor
approximately
.3mm (.01OU). and follow the procedures shown in Starter Motor
Disassembly, Test and Reassembly (Unit Repair).
If normal starter shims are not available, they can
Never operate the cranking motor more than 30
be improvised from plain washers or other suitable
seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool material.
for at least two minutes. Overheating, caused by
excessive cranking, will seriously
damage the cranking Starter Motor: If the battery, wiring and motor, switches are in satisfactory condition, and the engine

IGNITION SYSTEM 6B4-3
flash-over, which causes engine misfiring. Do not
mistake corona discharge for flash-over, or a shorted
insulator. Corona is a steady blue light appearing
around the insulator, just above the shell crimp. It is
the visible evidence of a high-tension field and has no
effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be
detected only in darkness. This discharge may repel
dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the insulator just
above the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly
regarded as evidence that combustion gases have blown
out between shell and insulator.
lgnition Switch
The mechanical switch is located in the steering
column on the right hand side just below the steering
wheel. The electrical switching portion of the assembly
is separate from the key and lock cylinder. However,
both are synchronized and work in conjunction with
each other through the action of the actuator rod
assembly.
For a complete explanation of the key and lock
cylinder, and the actuator rod assembly, see
STEERING, Section
38. See Section 8 for electrical
switching.
DIAGNOSIS
IGNITION SYSTEM
Spark Plugs
Worn or dirty plugs may give satisfactory
operation at idling speed, but at higher RPM they
frequently fail. Faulty plugs are indicated in a number
of ways: poor fuel economy, power loss, loss of speed,
hard starting and generally poor engine performance.
Spark plugs may also fail due to carbon fouling,
excessive gap, or a broken insulator. Fouled plugs may
be indicated by black carbon
deposits. The black deposits are usually the result of
slow-speed driving and short runs, where sufficient
engine operating temperature is seldom reached. Worn
pistons, rings, faulty ignition, over-rich carburetion
and spark plugs which are too cold will also result in
carbon deposits.
Excessive gap wear, on plugs of low mileage,
usually indicates the engine is operating at high speeds,
or loads that are consistently greater than normal, or
that a plug which is too hot is being used. Electrode
wear may also be the result of plug overheating,
causcd
by combustion gases leaking past the threads due to
insufficient torquing of the spark plug. Excessively lean
carburetion will also result in accelerated electrode
wear.
Broken insulators are usually the result of
improper installation, or carelessness when regapping
the plug. Broken upper insulators usually result from
a poor fitting wrench, or an outside blow. The cracked
insulator may not show up right away, but will as soon
as oil or moisture penetrates the crack. The crack is
usually just below the crimped part of shell and may
not be visible.
Broken lower insulators usually result from
carelessness when regapping and generally are visible.
This type of break may result from the plug operating
too "hot", which may happen in periods of high-speed
operation or under heavy loads. When regapping a
spark plug, always make the gap adjustment by
bending the ground (side) electrode. Spark plugs with
broken insulators should always be replaced.
HE1 Distributor
See Unit Repair for distributor disassembly, test
and reassembly of individual distributor components,
when the distributor is removed from the vehicle. See
On-Car Service for distributor removal and installation
and for component removal with distributor in car. See
Section 6E for
HE1 and EST diagnosis.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
IGNITION SYSTEM
Distributor Ignition
NOTICE: This procedure is generally true for
most carlines. Where procedure is different, or
where additional information is required, see
"ON-CAR SERVICE" for specific
carline.
HE1 DISTRIBUTOR
Service Precautions
1. When making compression checks, disconnect
the ignition switch feed wire at the distributor.
When disconnecting this connector,
do not use
a screwdriver or tool to release the locking tab, as
it may break.
2. No periodic lubrication is required. Engine oil
lubricates the lower bushing and an oil-filled
reservoir provides lubrication for the upper
bushing. 3.
The tachometer (TACH) terminal is next to the
ignition switch (BAT) connector on the
distributor cap.
NOTICE: The tachometer terminal must
NEVER be allowed to touch ground, as damage
to the module and/or ignition coil can result.
Some tachometers currently in use may NOT be
compatible with the High Energy Ignition System.
Consult the manufacturer of the tachometer if
questions arise.
4. Dwell adjustment is controlled by the module,
and cannot be adjusted.
5. The material used to construct the spark plug
cables is very soft. This cable will withstand more
heat and carry a higher voltage, but scuffing and
cutting become easier. The spark plug cables
must be routed correctly to prevent
chafing or
cutting. See Spark Plug Section. When removing

8B-2 ENGINE ELECTRICAL
NO CRANKING, NO SOUND FROM SOLENOID
I TURN HEADLIGHTS AND DME LITE ON
TURN KEY TO START I
TEST BETTERY.
IF OK. REPAIR
.5 VOLT OR MORE a
OSITION, (POS. LEAD 0
GROUND CABLE CONN. ANDlOR REPLACE
CABLE.
CLEAN AND TIGHTEN
POS. BATTERY CABLE
TERMINALS
ANDlOR REPLACE CABLE. CONNECTOR.
FUSIBLE
CHECK CONNECTIONS
AND VOLTAGE AT
SOLENOID
"S' TERM.
LESS THAN
7 VOLTS b
FAULTY PURPLE WITH KEY IN START,
WIRE TO STARTER CHECK
VOLTAGE AT
G20201-6D
Fig. 1 Electrical System General Diagnosis - 1 of 2
GENERAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 6D3 - Charging System
6D4
- ~~nitcon-§~stem Diagnosis and repair procedures for engine
6D5 - Engine Wiring
electrical subsystems are located in the following
subsections: Where a
"driveability" complaint
exists, or an
ECM code is set, go to Section
6E. Wiring diagrams,
6D
1 - Battery component locations and system checks are located in
6D2
- Cranking System Section 8A.