hood open PONTIAC FIERO 1988 Service Repair Manual

OB-4 MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
Tire and wheel operation - Be alert to a vibra-
tion of the steering wheel or seat at normal highway
speeds. This may mean a wheel balance is needed. Also, a
pull right or left on a straight, level road may show the
need for
a tire pressure adjustment or wheel alignment.
Steering system operation - Be alert to
changes in steering action. An inspection is needed when
the steering wheel is harder to turn or has too much free
play or if unusual sounds are noted when turning or
parking.
Headlight aim operation - Take note of light
pattern occasionally. If beam aim doesn't look right,
headlights should be adjusted.
AT EACH FUEL FILL
Engine oil level check - Check engine oil level
and add if necessary. See your Owner's
Manual for further
details.
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have it inspected and repaired at once.
Engine coolant level and condition - Check
engine coolant level in coolant reservoir tank and add if
necessary. Replace if dirty or rusty. See your Owner's
Manual for further details.
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have it inspected and repaired at once.
Windshield washer fluid level check -- Check
washer fluid level in container and add if necessary.
Hood latch operation - When opening hood on
cars equipped with hoods that open from the front, note
the operation of secondary latch. It should keep hood from
opening all the way when primary latch is released. Make
sure that hood closes firmly.
AT LEAST MONTI-ILY
Tire and wheel inspection and pressure
check--
Check tires for abnormal wear or damage. Also,
check for damaged wheels. Keep pressures as shown on
Tire Placard on the driver's door (include spare unless it is
a stowaway). Pressure should b\: checked when tires are
"cold". See "Tires" in Owner's Manual for further
infomation.
Light operation check - Check operation of
license plate light, side-marker lights, headlights includ-
ing high beams, parking lights, taillights, brake lights.
turn signals, backup lights, instrument panel and interior
lights and hazard warning flashers.
Fluid leak check - After the car has been parked
for a while, inspect the surface beneath the car for water,
oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air
conditioning system after use is normal. If you notice fuel
leaks or fumes, the cause should be found and corrected at
once.
AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR (FOR EXAMPLE,
EVERY SPRING AND FALL)
Power steering pump fluid level check --
Check power steering pump fluid level in accordance with
Owner's Manual instructions and keep at proper level.
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have it inspected and repaired at once.
Brake master cylinder reservoir fluid level
check ---- Check fluid and keep at proper level. Note: It is
normal for the brake fluid level to go down slightly as the
brake pads wear
- so be sure to keep reservoir filled.
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have
it inspected and repaired at once.
Clutch system service --- manual transmis-
sionltransaxle --- For cars equipped with hydraulic
clutch system, check the reservoir fluid level and add fluid
as required. All others, check clutch pedal free travel and
adjust as necessary. See your Owner's Manual for further
details.
~
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have it inspected and repaired at once.
Weatherstrip Lubrication - Clean surface and
then apply a thin film of silicone grease with a clean cloth.
EACH TIME OIL IS CHANGED
Automatic and manual transmissionltrans-
axle fluid level check - Check transmission/transaxle
fluid level and add as required. (Corvette only) if equipped
with manual transmission
- check fluid in the overdrive
unit and add as required.
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have
it inspected and repaired at once.
Brake systems inspection - For convenience,
the following should be done when wheels are removed
for rotation: Inspect lines and hoses for proper hookup,
binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake
pads for wear and rotors for surface condition. Also in-
spect drum brake linings for wear and cracks. Inspect
other brake parts, including drums, wheel cylinders, park-
ing brake, etc. at the same time. Check parking brake
adjustment.
INSPECT BRAKES MORE OFTEN IF DRIVING
HABITS OR CONDITIONS RESULT IN FREQUENT
BRAKING.
Steering, suspension and front drive axle
boot and seal inspection
- Inspect front and rear
suspension and steering system for damaged, loose or
missing parts, signs of wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect
power steering lines and hoses for proper hookup, bind-
ing, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. (On cars equipped with
manual steering gear, check for seal leakage.) On
front-
wheel-drive cars, clean then inspect drive axle boot seals
for damage, tears or leakage. Replace seals if necessary.
Exhaust system inspection - Inspect complete
system. Inspect body near the exhaust system. Look for
broken, damaged, missing or out-of-position parts as well
as open seams, holes, loose connections or other condi-
tions which could cause a heat buildup in the tloor pan or
could let exhaust fumes seep into the trunk or passenger
compartment.

AIR CONDITIONING 113-5
DIAGNOSIS
TESTING THE REFRIGERANT SYSEEM
If a malfunction in the refrigerant system is sus-
pected, check the following:
1. Check outer surfaces of radiator and condenser
cores to be sure air flow is not blocked by dirt,
leaves or other foreign material. Be sure to
check between the condenser and radiator as
well as the outer surfaces.
2. Restrictions or kinks in the condenser core,
hoses, tubes, etc.
3. Blower fan operation (see Section 8A).
4. Check all air ducts for leaks or restrictions. Low
air flow rate may indicate a restricted evaporator
core.
5. Compressor clutch slippage.
6. Improper drive belt tension.
7. See C.C.O.T. AIC system diagnostic
procedures.
InsufFicient Cooling "Quick-Check"
Procedure
The following "HAND-FEEL" procedure can
be used to approximate whether or not the
AIC system
has the proper charge of Refrigerant- 12 (providing air
temperature is above
2 1°C [70°F])on most models. This check can
be made in a matter of minutes and
may simplify system diagnosis by pinpointing the
problem to the amount of
W- 12 charge in the system or
by eliminating low charge possibility from the overall
checkout.
1. Engine must be
warm(CH0KE OPEN and OFF
FAST IDLE SPEED CAM) and at normal idle
speed.
2. Hood and body doors open.
3. Selector (mode) button set at "NORM."
4. Temperature lever at full COLD.
5. Blower on "HI."
6. "Hand-Feel" temperature of evaporator inlet
pipe after orifice, and accumulator surface, with
compressor engaged.
BOTH SAME TEMPERATURE AND
BOTH SAME DEGREE COOLER
THAN AMBIENT
- Proper condition:
check for other problems; (see Testing the
Refrigerant System).
@ Leak check. If leak found, dis-
charge and repair as required. Evac-
uate and recharge.
e If no leak found, see A/C System
Diagnostic Procedures.
EVAPORATOR
'MODE POSITION
INDICATED
BY (
Figure 3 AIC Air Flow --- Typical

26-2 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
TO RAISE OR LOWER THE FRONT comers
for proper alignment, proceed as follows:
1. Close hood firmly.
2. Determine the amount of adjustment necessary.
3. Open hood.
4. Raise or lower the adjustable hood bumpers as
required.
FORE AND APT adjustment can be accom-
plished as follows:
1. Loosen hinge to fender attaching screws.
Remove or Disconnect
Open hood.
Scribe line on hood inner panel and fender panel
to indicate original hinge position.
Block hood on side where hinge is to be
removed.
Prop hood open.
Remove hinge-to-hood attaching screws and
hinge-to-fender attaching screws.
Carefully remove hinge and strut assembly.
- -
2. Reposition hinge assembly. install or Conned 3. Tighten hinge to fender attaching screws to
specifications. 1. Mount new hinge on fender using scribed line
4. If necessary, repeat procedure on opposite side for location,
and tighten attaching screws.
of hood. 2.
Position hinge to hood using scribed line for
location, install attaching screws and tighten.
3. Carefully close hood and check for proper
- - alignment.
4. If hood is misaligned, measure amount of
mis-
Figure 7
Hood hinges are fastened to the fender panel.
The hold-open position is provided by a hood
hinge spring assist linkage assembly. This spring
assist linkage is comprised of a
single-am elbow joint
assembly combined with a small coil spring.
1-HINGE ASM.
2-BOLT/SCREW
Figure 1 Hood Hinge - Typical
alignment.
a. Open hood.
b. Loosen hinge at hood or fender and repo-
sition to correct misalignment.
c. Tighten hood-to-hinge attaching screws to
specifications and repeat alignment proce-
dure if necessary.
HOOD L14TCI-I
The hood latch is a cable released, positive lock-
ing hood latch assembly located in the radiator sup-
port and baffle assembly, and locks with the
hood-
mounted striker. The hood release handle is located
inside the car at the left side of the plastic shroud kick
panel. After the release handle has been pulled, the
hood can be fully opened by releasing the hand catch
on the hood underside.
1. Using a
13mrn (112") socket and ratchet with
114" drive, reach up between the outboard side
of the radiator and grille, and remove the two
hood release latch assembly retaining screws.
2. With the two screws removed, raise the hood.
3. With the hood up, the hood release latch assem-
bly can be removed.
4. Reassemble the hood latch assembly to the radi-
ator support assembly.
5. Replace or repair the hood release cable as
necessary.
After proper positioning of the hood bumpers,
hood height is automatically controlled by the verti-
cally self-adjusting hood latch assembly. Proper hood
alignment is essential for ease of latch operation.
Adjust
1. Loosen latch attaching bolts to finger-tight.
2. Push down on hood, holding the hood closed
while pulling the release lever.

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2C-3
3. Allow hood to open, and tighten latch bolts in
new location.
FENDER PANEL
An outer fender panel with a plastic inner panel
is used. Care should be used in handling raw fenders
due to the lack of fender rigidity prior to installation.
Body surfaces at molding areas must be cleaned
thoroughly with suitable organic solvent immediately
prior to installation to ensure adhesion. Do not allow
adhesive surface of molding to come in contact with
wet solvent, dirt, or foreign matter.
NO"FICE: If heat source is used to condition
moldings prior to installation, the source is to
provide
uniform heating, not to exceed 85°F.
Application is to be made in a clean area with
ambient and body surface temperatures of at least
65°F.
The moldings are to be secured with two appli-
cations of a force of 20 pounds for the full length of
each section using a roller or other suitable tool.
Any section of molding removed once in contact
with the body surface must be replaced.
ALUMINUM PANEL REPAIR PROCEDURES
An aluminum hood (inner and outer panel) is
used on some vehicles. An aluminum panel can be
identified by checking it with a magnet, preferably in
the front corners to avoid any possible damage to the
paint. Aluminum will not attract a magnet.
Aluminum panels can be repaired successfully
with only slight changes of materials and techniques
commonly used to refinish steel panels. The necessary
modifications fall into two categories: 1) metal
preparation; and 2) painting.
Metal Preparation
1. Because aluminum is relatively easy to grind,
care must be taken not to use overly coarse abra-
sive discs or excessive grinder speeds (greater
than 2,000 rpm), both of which will cause
excessive heat and unnecessary metal removal.
2. Surface scratches should normally be removed
with 180 or 120 grit paper with scalloped edges.
Hand sanding with 80 grit paper will usually be
sufficient to remove excessive body filler or
heavy scratches, again followed with 180 grit
paper.
NOTICE: Avoid scratching aluminum when
sanding with 80 grit paper by hand.
3. Foam backed pads are recommended for
grinders used on aluminum, rather than the
stiffer rubber pads used for mounting abrasive
discs used on steel. The foam pad helps to
reduce heat build-up and improves blending for
feathering.
4. Localized heat, generated by grinding, can be
minimized by the use of a grease stick, such as
Formax F-160 or equivalent. This does, how-
ever, tend to load up the grinding discs quickly,
which should be periodically cleaned by rotating
them against a brush wetted with solvent.
5. If out-dings or minor convex defects need to be
filed, it is recommended to use a round edge,
double cut, flexible file with 22 teeth per inch
overlaid with 52 teeth per inch (such as
Nicholson
#50-412 or equivalent).
NOTICE: Keep file clean so that chips do not
scratch aluminum.
The use of heat is not recommended, since the
structural characteristics of aluminum are noticeably
affected by heat. A bent or buckled aluminum hood,
which exhibits strain cracks either before or after
straightening, should be replaced.
Both steel and aluminum panels can be metal
prepped and repaired with two-part polyester filler
materials in the same number of operations. The only
differences are that less aggressive type files and abra- sive discs should be used, with care being taken not to
overheat the aluminum.
Painting
Painting procedures for aluminum panels differ
very little from those used on steel panels. Two pre-
cautions should, however, be observed:
1. Alkaline base paint removers are not recom-
mended and should not be used.
2. Aluminum also requires a chemical cleaner such
as
DuPont 2253, Ditzler DX-533, or equivalent
be used on bare metal to remove contaminants
and corrosion. After cleaning, a conversion
coating such as DuPont
226S, Ditzler DX-503
or equivalent should be applied to promote
adhesion.
Beyond these considerations, painting alumi-
num panels should present no increases in difficulty or
changes in procedure and technique.
PAINTING AND REPAIRING NONMETAL
EXTERIOR PARTS 1
FiberglassIABS Plastic Panel Repair ~
A Plastic Solder Repair Kit can be used to repair
cracks, dents, or pits in fiberglass or ABS panels. A
Glass Woven Cloth should be installed on the under
side of a crack in the panel to structurally reinforce the
panel. The following procedure can be used to repair
the panels:
1. With a lacquer removing solvent, remove paint
from damaged area down to the fiberglass or
, ABS material. I
2. Scuff-sand area surrounding damaged area to
provide a good bonding surface.

2C-4 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
3. Clean area to be repaired.
4. Mix and apply the repair material by using a
putty knife or rubber squeegee.
5. Work the material into the repair and build up
the desired contour. For deep filling, and on
vertical surfaces, several layers may be
required.
6. Feather-sand damaged area with No. 200 sand-
paper and finish-sand with No. 320 sandpaper.
7. Prepare repaired area for refinishing. Refinish
with acrylic lacquer as described below.
1. THOROUGHLY CLEAN the entire surface
area, using Naphtha or equivalent solvent, to
insure a surface free of contamination.
2. To promote paint adhesion, a light scuff-sand-
ing of the surface with
#400-grit sandpaper is
recommended.
3. Repeat cleaning of the surface.
4. Color coat with acrylic lacquer for proper color
match.
5. Allow to dry thoroughly, rub out and polish.
PAINT REFINISHING PROCEDURES FOR
URETHANE, P.V.C. AND T.P.R. SURFACES
Urethane material will withstand minor impact
and the resultant damage, such as occurs in parking
lots, by recovering its original shape. Its Endura paint
film responds to impact in a similar manner without
cracking or splitting. If, however, an area of damage
in the Urethane bumper or panel does not recover its
shape, or the surface is punctured, gouged or torn, a
repair system has been developed to restore the origi-
nal shape and appearance of the urethane-base
material.
CALSVON: There are a number of paint
systems available For service use; how-
ever,
many require additives containing
isocyanates.
It is essential that all rec-
ommendations and warnings listed on
the container label for
materials
seleded be followed.
CAUTION: If the paint system selected
specifies an additive containing
isocya-
nates, it is mandatory that adequate
respiratory protection be worn. An
example of such protection
is an air line
respirator with a
full hood or half mask.
If not
avaiable, use a vaporlpaHiculate
respirator that the respirator supplier
recommends as
efFective for isocyanate
vapors and mists (unless local
regula-
tions prevail).
Such protection should be worn during the
entire painting process. Persons with respiratory
problems, or those
allergic to isocyanates must not
be exposed to isocyanate vapors or spray mist.
REPAIRING & REFINISHING URETHANE
BUMPERS AND FRONT END PANELS
Required Materials:
1. 3M No. 8101 Structural Adhesive, or
equivalent.
2. Color Coat - Dexlar (DuPont) Flexible Finish
Enamel Color Coat, or Ditzler Elastomeric
Enamel Color Coat or equivalent.
3. Additive
- DuPont 792s Centari Hardener,
or
Ditzler
DXR-80 Delthane Additive or
equivalent.
4. Thinner
- DuPont 3608s Acrylic
Lacquer
Thinner, or Ditzler Delstar DTR 601 Acrylic
Enamel Reducer or equivalent.
NOTICE: Use the same brand name materials for
the color coat, additive, and thinner.
5. A wax and adhesive cleaner.
Equipment Needed:
1. Wooden spatula (enclosed in repair package).
2. Heat lamp.
3. 36 grit 180-A, 240-A, and 320-A grit disc
sandpaper.
4. Random orbital-type sander.
5. Body repair tape.
6. Suction spray gun (same nozzle and air cap
combination as used for acrylic).
Repair Procedure
There are three types of repairable damage on
urethane material. They are a puncture, a gouge and a
tear.
Following is the basic repair procedure for
repairing these types of damages.
1. Clean the damaged area with 3M #8984 Gen-
eral Purpose Adhesive Cleaner or equivalent. If
the damage is through the thickness of the part,
clean both sides.
Grind away damaged material with a
36 grit
disc. Feather edge the paint around the damage
using a
1808 grit disc.
2. If the part has a puncture or tear, file or rout out
the area where joint line will be. Bevel the edge
of the part with the open edge towards the side
to be filled (fill from the side with easiest
access). Clean the repair area with a clean dry
rag.
3. Apply 3M #6935 Auto Body Repair Tape, or
equivalent, to the underside of the repair area to
backup the repair material.
NOTICE: Before going to the next step, be sure
all of the paint (both topcoat and primer) has been
removed from the area where the structural adhe-
sive is to be applied.

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2@-7
3. During the above flash time period (1 to 10 min-
utes), apply appropriate "conventional" interior acrylic lacquer color as required and allow
painted part to dry for
4 to 5 hours before install-
ing on car.
RlGlD OW HARD ABS PMS"TIC PARTS
Rigid or hard ABS plastic requires no primer.
"Conventional" interior acrylic lacquers adhere satis-
factorily to hard ABS plastics.
Procedure
1. Wash part thoroughly with a cleaning solvent
(Acrylic-Clean, Pre-Kleano, Prep-Sol or equiv-
alent) to remove any dirt or grease.
2. Apply appropriate "conventional" interior
acrylic lacquer color. Apply only sufficient
color for proper hiding to avoid washout of
"grain" effect.
3. Allow to dry and then install part.
VINYL AND FLEXIBLE (Son) ABS
PLASTIC PARTS
The outer cover or skin material of "flexible"
instrument panel cover (pad) assemblies is made of an
ABSIPVC plastic blend. The same is true of many
"padded" door trim assemblies. The soft cushion pad-
ding under the I.P. skin is urethane foam plastic. The
most widely used
"flexible" vinyls (poly vinyl chlo-
ride)
are coated fabrics, such as used in seat trim,
some door trim assemblies, molded headlining panels
and sun visors. Most head rests are "flexible" vinyls.
Examples of "hard vinyls are: door and front seat
back assist handles and coat hooks.
The paint system of vinyl and flexible ABS
plastic involves the use of interior "vinyl" color and a
clear vinyl top coat.
Procedure
1. Wash part thoroughly with a vinyl cleaning and
preparation solvent ("Vinyl Press"
- Ditzler,
"Vinyl Prep Conditioner"
- Detroit Autobody
or equivalent) to remove greasy film or silicone.
Wipe off cleaner while still wet with clean,
lint-
free cloth.
2. Immediately after wiping face dry, apply inte-
rior "vinyl" color in wet coats allowing suffi-
cient flash time between coats (see label
directions on can). Use proper "vinyl" color as
designated by interior trim combinations. Apply
only sufficient color for proper hiding to avoid
washout of "grain" effect. No primer or
primer-
sealer is required.
3. Before the final vinyl color coat has dried, apply
two coats of clear vinyl top coat spray (instru-
ment panels will require the "nonglare" clear top
coat). Do not allow the first spray coat to com-
pletely dry before spraying on the second. Use
top coat with appropriate gloss level to match adjacent similar components. This
clear coat is
necessary to control the gloss requirement and
prevent
'tracking" (rubbing-off) of the color
coat after drying.
4. Allow to dry according to label directions before
installing part.
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
CONCEALED HEADLIGHTS
The concealed headlights used on this model are
electrically operated. When the headlights are turned
on, solid state circuitry activates the actuators. This
same circuitry senses when the actuators stop moving
and removes the ground to deactivate the actuators.
When the headlights are turned off, the actuators run
in opposite direction closing the headlight doors.
Should an electrical failure occur in the head-
light circuit, they may be raised manually by rotating
the knob on the actuator in a counterclockwise direc-
tion until the headlights are fully open. The headlights
may be lowered by rotating the knob on the actuator in
a clockwise direction until the headlights are fully
closed.
For electrical circuit information and diagnosis,
refer to Section
8A of this manual.
If it is desired to raise the headlights with the
lights off, either of the following procedures may be
used:
1. Turn the lights on. After the headlights are
open, disconnect the electrical connections at
the actuator connectors. Turn the lights off. The
headlights will now remain in the open position.
2. Turn the parking lights on. Depress the head-
light rocker switch lightly. The headlights may
then be raised "up" fully with the lights off.
Adjust
Because of the number of adjustments possible
and the number of attaching points of the concealed
headlight body assembly
(9), only those attachments
which control the adjustment desired should be loos-
ened. Make one
adjbstment at a time.
NOTICE: The headlight door does NOT have
slotted mounting holes and therefore is not
adjustable by itself. This insures proper clearance
between the headlight door and the hood and
fenders in both the raised and lowered positions.
The entire headlight body assembly must be
adjusted to achieve the desired appearance and
fit. Care should be exercised when adjusting the
headlight body assembly. Severe hammer blows could damage the die cast aluminum headlight
body assembly.
TO RAISE OR LOWER the headlight body
assembly, proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.

26-8 CHASSIS SWEET METAL
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. If necessary, move battery rearward to gain
access to rear screw.
5. Lower headlights.
6. Loosen two body screws and adjust headlight
body.
7. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to
number 1 and number 2 screws.
8. Loosen two body screws and adjust headlight
body.
9. Repeat procedure, if necessary, to obtain a satis-
factory appearance.
10. Re-position battery and tighten hold-down
screw to specifications.
11. Install lower air deflector.
12. Install headlight bezel.
TO SET FRONT TO REAR
GAP between
headlight door and hood, proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. Lower headlights.
5. Loosen two body assembly screws and adjust
headlight body assembly.
6. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
7. Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
8. Repeat procedure, if necessary.
9. Install lower air deflector.
10. Install headlight bezel.
TO SET SIDE-TO-SIDE GAP between head-
light door and hood and headlight door and fender,
proceed as follows:
Open hood.
Raise headlights. Remove headlight bezel.
If necessary, move battery rearward to gain
access to rear screw.
Lower headlights.
Loosen three body screws and adjust headlight
body.
If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body.
Repeat procedure, if necessary.
Re-position battery and tighten hold-down
screw to specifications.
Install lower air deflector.
Install headlight bezel. TO
SET CONTOUR of headlight door to hood,
proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. Lower headlights.
5. Loosen two (2) screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
6. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
7. Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
8. Repeat procedure, if necessary.
9. Install lower air deflector.
10. Install headlight bezel.
HEADLIGHT BODY ASSEMBLY
Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear headlight door attaching screws.
2. Raise headlight doors.
3. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
4. Front headlight door attaching screws and
remove headlight door.
5. Electrical connection at bulb.
6. Lower air deflector (one side only).
7. Headlight body assembly attaching screws and
disconnect electrical connection at actuator
connector.
8. Link.
9. Actuator crank arm.
10. Actuator retaining screws and remove actuator.
11. Unhook headlight capsule lower retaining
spring and remove headlight capsule assembly.
12. Headlight body assembly attaching brackets and
fasteners.
Install or Connect
1. Headlight body assembly attaching brackets and
fasteners.
2. Headlight capsule lower retaining spring and
install headlight capsule
3. Acuator retaining screws and install actuator.
4. Actuator crank arm.
5. Link.
6. Headlight body assembly attaching screws and
connect electrical connection at actuator
connector.
7. Lower air deflector (one side only).
8. Electrical connection at bulb.
9. Front headlight door attaching screws and install
headlight door.

10. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
11. Lower headlight doors.
12. Rear headlight door attaching screws.
ACTUATOR
Remove or Disconnect
1. Battery.
2. Raise headlight door manually.
3. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
4. Pry off link assembly.
5. Actuator crank arm attaching screw. Support the
crank
arm during removal so as not to damage
the actuator.
6. Actuator electrical connector.
7. Actuator attaching screws and remove actuator.
Install or Connect
1, Actuator attaching screws and install actuator.
2, Actuator electrical connector.
3. Actuator crank arm attaching screw.
4. Link assembly.
5. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
6. Battery.
HOOD HINGE
Hood hinges are fastened to the fender panel.
Two gas struts are used (one at each hinge); both ends
of which are fastened to the front portion of the hinge
assembly. This construction provides hold-open
power. Several struts are used depending upon hood
material and configuration. Make certain both struts
have the same color coding if the struts are to be
replaced.
FENDER PANEL
An outer fender panel with a plastic inner panel
is used. Care should be used in handling raw fenders
due to the lack of fender rigidity prior to installation.
See the illustrated service procedures for installation.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise car part way on hoist.
2. Lower air deflector attaching screws and push-
in retainer to wheelhouse and remove both sides
of air deflector.
3. Fascia to fender attaching nuts.
4. Wheelhouse to fender inner panel attaching
screws.
5. Lower fender brace attaching screws.
6. Lower rear fender attaching screw.
7. Hood hinge to fender attaching screws and prop
hood open.
-
8. The upper fender attaching screws.
CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2C-9
9. Antenna escutcheon from fender.
10. Side marker lamp electrical connection and
remove the fender from the vehicle.
11. Strip the fender of the side marker lamp, fender
wheelhouse, fasteners and moldings.
install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.
FRONT END PANEL
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise car part way on hoist.
2. Lower air deflector attaching screws and push-
in retainer to wheelhouse and remove both sides
of air deflector.
3. Fascia to fender attaching nuts.
4. Fascia to reinforcement push-in retainers.
5. Lower car.
6. Parking lamp attaching screws.
7. Upper reinforcement attaching screws and
remove front end panel.
8. Left and right grilles.
9. Front end panel reinforcement attaching screws
and fasteners from fascia.
Install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.
FIREBIRD AERO ACCESSORIES
BOOR LOWER AIR
DEFLECmR
Remove or Disconnect
1. All door trim pad hardware.
2. Loosen bottom and sides of door trim pad. Do
not remove pad.
3. Gently lift bottom of door trim pad to gain
access to nuts.
4. Three nuts (Acl) from inside door panel.
5. Two external nuts (#2) from door panel.
6. Deflector.
NOTICE: If studs that are attached to the deflec-
tor come out with the nut, they can be reinstalled
in the deflector. Remove nut from stud and rein-
stall stud in deflector.
Install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.

ENGINE COOLING 88.3
since a small oil pump driven by the separator plate
forces the silicone oil into a reservoir between the
separator plate and the front cover assembly. In this
position, the passage from this cavity to the clutch area
is closed by a slide valve. As operating conditions
produce a high radiator air temperature discharge,
above approximately 66°C
(150"F), the temperature
sensitive bi-metal coil tightens to move the slide valve
(attached to the coil) which opens a port in the
separator plate. This allows a flow of silicone oil into
the clutch chamber to engage the clutch, providing a
maximum fan speed of approximately 2200 rpm. The
clutch coil is calibrated so that, with a road load at an
ambient temperature of approximately 32°C
(90T), the
clutch is just at a point of shift between high and low
fan speed. No attempt should be made to disturb the
calibration of the engine clutch fan assembly as each
assembly is individually calibrated at the time of
manufacture. Under certain temperature conditions
there is a lateral movement at the fan tip which should
not be considered as a hub or bearing failure. This
condition is a design feature of the clutch assembly
which allows up to approximately
1/4" lateral
movement measured at the fan tip.
Testing a clutch fan by holding the small hub
with one hand and rotating the aluminum housing in
a
clockwise/counter-clockwise motion will cause the
clutch to freewheel, which is a normal condition when
operated in this manner. This should not be considered
a test by which replacement is determined.
Temperature Switch
This switch activates a warning lamp in the
instrument cluster if the engine overheats. With
optional instrumentation, a temperature gage replaces
the warning lamp and the temperature switch is
replaced with a transducer. See Section
8A for
Temperature Switch location and diagnosis.
Coolant Temperature Fan Switch
This switch regulates voltage to the coolant fan
relay, which operates the fan whenever the engine
coolant temperature exceeds 230"
F (110" C). For
location and diagnosis see Section 8A for Coolant
Temperature Fan Switch.
Thermostat
A pellet-type thermostat is used in the coolant
outlet passage to control the flow of engine coolant, to
provide fast engine warm-up and to regulate coolant
temperatures.
A wax pellet element in the thermostat
expands when heated and contracts when cooled. The
pellet element is connected through a piston to a valve.
When the pellet element is heated, pressure is exerted
against a rubber diaphragm which forces the valve to
open. As the pellet element is cooled, the contraction
allows a spring to close the valve. Thus, the valve
remains closed while the coolant is cold, preventing
circulation of coolant through the radiator. At this
point, coolant is allowed to circulate only throughout
the engine to warm it quickly and evenly.
As the engine warms, the pellet element expands
and the thermostat valve opens, permitting coolant to flow
through the radiator, where heat is dissipated
through the radiator walls. This opening and closing of
the thermostat permits enough coolant to enter the
radiator to keep the engine within operating limits.
Fig. 3 Pellet Type Thermostat
Coolant Recovery System
A recovery-type cooling system is standard on all
cars and is designed to maintain the engine at proper
operating temperatures. The recovery tank collects
coolant that expands with rising temperature and
would otherwise overflow from the system. When the
system temperature drops, the coolant is drawn from
the recovery tank back into the radiator by the suction
created by coolant contraction. The cooling system has
been filled at the factory with a high-quality, inhibited,
year-around coolant that meets the standards of
General Motors Specification 1825-M. This coolant
solution provides freezing protection to at least -37°C
(-34°F). It has been formulated to be used for two full
calendar years or
30,OO miles, whichever first occurs,
of normal operation without replacement, provided the
proper concentration of coolant is maintained.
DIAGNOSIS
The following diagnostic information covers
common problems and possible causes. When the
proper diagnosis is made the problem should be
corrected by part replacement, adjustment, or repair as
required. Refer to the appropriate section of the service
manual for these procedures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Cooling System Care
The radiator cap should not be removed to check
coolant level. Check the coolant level visually in the
"see-through" coolant recovery tank every time hood
is up. Level should be near "ADD" mark when the
system is cold. At normal operating temperature the
coolant level should increase to the "FULL" mark on
the recovery tank. Coolant should be added only to the
reservoir to raise level to the "FULL" mark. Use a
50/50 mixture of high-quality ethylene glycol
antifreeze and water for coolant additions.

68-8 ENGINE COOLING
However, there are limits to the tensioner's ability to
The tensioner has rovisions for a visual check to
compensate for varying lengths of belts. With the
ten- verify that it is in t e "operating range" (see Figures
sioner outside of its operating range, poor tension
608 and 609). R
control andlor damage to the tensioner may result.
ALUMINUM RADIATOR REPAIR
This radiator utilizes an aluminum core with
plastic side tanks. The core and side tanks can be
replaced separately and core repair is easily made with
the hot melt adhesive method. A transaxle oil cooler
is located in one of the side tanks. The oil cooler can
be replaced. The drain cock is located on the lower part
of one of the tanks. The drain cock is also serviceable.
Core
The core is made of aluminum and is of the
crossflow design. It utilizes large tubes that resist
plugging, and repairs to the tubes and core are easily
made using the hot melt adhesive method.
The core is attached to the tanks by clinched tabs
on the core that can be bent back if tank or core
replacement is required.
If the damage to a tube is too severe, a tube can
be blocked or plugged as explained in "Tube Blocking.
" No more than two tubes should ever be blocked on
a core. Also replace the core if more than three tabs are
broken on one side, or if two adjacent tabs are broken.
Tanks
The tanks are attached to the core by the use of
clinched tabs. The clinched tabs can be bent back if the
tanks need to be removed from the core. Bend the tabs
back only enough to remove the tank. Overbending
will weaken the tabs.
A high temperature rubber gasket is used to seal
the mating surface between the core and the tank. (See
Fig. 8). The gasket must be replaced any time a tank
is removed from the core.
Transaxle Oil Cooler
The transaxle oil cooler is located in one of the
radiator side tanks. The oil cooler can be replaced by
removing the tank from the core.
A leaking oil cooler gasket can be replaced
without removing the tank from the core.
Drain Cock
The aluminum/plastic radiator utilizes a two
piece plastic drain cock and a rubber seal. The drain
cock is serviceable (See Fig.
9).
ALUMINUM RADIATOR SERVICE
The aluminum-plastic radiator can be repaired at
the dealership. The following components are easily
replaced:
e Core
e Tanks and gaskets
o Oil coolers and gaskets
e Drain cock and gasket The
tanks cannot be repaired if broken or
cracked. The radiator core can be replaced and the new
core used with the original tanks and oil cooler.
Precautions
As with all cooling system service, take measures
to prevent personal injury and damage to the system.
CAUTION: To help avoid the danger of
being burned, do not remove the
radiator cap while the engine and
radiator are
still hot. Scalding fluid
and steam can be blown out under
pressure if the
cap is taken off too
soon.
NOTICE: DO NOT USE "BOIL OUT" TANKS
OR VATS. Common service methods may
actually destroy an aluminum radiator. Caustic or
lye cleaning solutions must NOT be used for
aluminum radiators.
e Do not open the hood if you can see, or hear,
steam or coolant escaping from the engine
compartment.
e Do not remove radiator cap if radiator feels
warm.
e Do not remove the radiator cap or coolant
recovery tank cap if the coolant in the recovery
tank looks like it is boiling.
Wear eye protection.
e Wear gloves to protect your hands against
excessive heat, or the effects of chemicals on your
skin.
o Prevent dirt and water from entering the
transmission oil cooler.
e Do not use boil-out tanks, or vats, or other tanks
that have been used for copper and brass
radiators. The flux, acid, and caustic cleaners
remaining in these tanks will attack the
aluminum and cause radiator failure.
A separate
test tank containing clean water is strongly
recommended for servicing aluminum-plastic
radiators.
RIOTICE: Never use shop air that is not regulated
at
20 psi (138 kPa) to pressure test radiator.
Pressures over
20 psi (138 kPa) will damage the
radiator.
DIAGNOSIS
Leak Testing
Some core leaks can be detected by merely adding
water to the radiator. It is helpful to clean the core so
that the damaged area can be more easily found.