lock SUZUKI RENO 2008 1.G Workshop Manual

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DRIVING YOUR VEHICLE
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Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be
more effective than braking. For example,
you come over a hill and find a truck
stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly
pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out
from between parked cars and stops right
in front of you. You can avoid these prob-
lems by braking – if you can stop in time.
But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room.
That’s the time for evasive action – steer-
ing around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emer-
gencies like these. First apply your brakes
but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough
to lock your wheels.
See “Braking” in this section. It is better to
remove as much speed as you can from a
possible collision. Then steer around the
problem, to the left or right depending on
the space available.An emergency like this requires close
attention and a quick decision. If you are
holding the steering wheel at the recom-
mended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can
turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly with-
out removing either hand. But you have to
act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly
straighten the wheel once you have
avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations
are always possible is a good reason to
practice defensive driving at all times and
wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road RecoveryYou may find that your right wheels have
dropped off the edge of a road onto the
shoulder while you’re driving.If the level of the shoulder is only slightly
below the pavement, recovery should be
fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and
then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so
that your vehicle straddles the edge of the
pavement. You can turn the steering wheel
up to one-quarter turn until the right front
tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn
your steering wheel to go straight down the
roadway.
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass
another on a two-lane highway waits for
just the right moment, accelerates, moves
around the vehicle ahead, then goes back
into the right lane again. A simple maneu-
ver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle
on a two-lane highway is a potentially dan-
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle:

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steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering quickly enough, your
vehicle may straighten out. Always be
ready for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water,
snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the
road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down
and adjust your driving to these conditions.
It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be
longer and vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced
traction, try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration or braking (including
engine braking by shifting to a lower gear).
Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is
slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues – such
as enough water, ice or packed snow on
the road to make a “mirrored surface” –
and slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system,
remember: It helps avoid only the braking
skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a
braking skid (where the wheels are no
longer rolling), release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push
the brake pedal down steadily when you
have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering
control.
Driving at NightNight driving is more dangerous than day
driving. One reason is that some drivers
are likely to be impaired – by alcohol or
drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
 Drive defensively.
 Don’t drink and drive.
 Adjust your inside rearview mirror to
reduce the glare from headlamps behind
you.
 Since you can’t see as well, you may
need to slow down and keep more space
between you and other vehicles.
 Slow down, especially on higher speed
roads. Your headlamps can light up only
so much road ahead.
 In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the
daytime. But as we get older these differ-
ences increase. A 50-year-old driver may
require at least twice as much light to see
the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect
your night vision. For example, if you
spend the day in bright sunshine you are
wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will
have less trouble adjusting to night. But if
you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at
night. They may cut down on glare from
headlamps, but they also make a lot of
things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by
approaching headlamps. It can take a sec-
ond or two, or even several seconds, for
your eyes to readjust to the dark. When
you are faced with severe glare (as from a
driver who doesn’t lower the high beams,
or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps),
slow down a little. Avoid staring directly
into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on
your vehicle clean – inside and out. Glare
at night is made much worse by dirt on the
glass. Even the inside of the glass can
build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass
makes lights dazzle and flash more than
clean glass would, making the pupils of
your eyes contract repeatedly.
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle:

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 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert.
There could be something in your lane,
like a stalled car or an accident.
 You may see highway signs on moun-
tains that warn of special problems.
Examples are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or
winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.Winter DrivingHere are some tips for winter driving:
 Have your vehicle in good shape for win-
ter.
 You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your trunk.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or
broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid,
a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small
shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a cou-
ple of reflective warning triangles. And, if
you will be driving under severe conditions,
include a small bag of sand, a piece of old
carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your
tires meet the road probably have good
traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between
your tires and the road, you can have a
very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot
less traction or “grip” and will need to be
very careful.Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet ice can be even more
trouble because it may offer the least trac-
tion of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing
rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on
wet ice until salt and sand crews can get
there.
Whatever the condition – smooth ice,
packed, blowing or loose snow – drive with
caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the frag-
ile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the
drive wheels will spin and polish the sur-
face under the tires even more.
Unless you have an anti-lock braking sys-
tem, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If
you do have anti-lock, see “Braking” in this
section. This system improves your vehi-
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cle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road.) Whether you have an
anti-lock braking system or not, you’ll want
to begin stopping sooner than you would
on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes,
if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up
on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal
down steadily to get the most traction you
can.
Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if
you brake so hard that your wheels stop
rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your
wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
 Whatever your braking system, allow
greater following distance on any slip-
pery road.
 Watch for slippery spots. The road might
be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered
with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice
patches may appear in shaded areas
where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or
under bridges. Sometimes the surface of
a curve or an overpass may remain icy
when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to
brake while you’re actually on the ice,
and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you
could be in a serious situation. You should
probably stay with your vehicle unless you
know for sure that you are near help and
you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and
keep yourself and your passengers safe:
 Turn on your hazard flashers.
 Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert
police that you’ve been stopped by the
snow.
 Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket
around you. If you have no blankets or
extra clothing, make body insulators
from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats – anything you can wrap
around yourself or tuck under your cloth-
ing to keep warm.You can run the engine to keep warm, but
be careful.
WARNING
Snow can trap exhaust gases under
your vehicle. This can cause deadly
CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get
inside. CO could overcome you and
kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so
you might not know it is in your vehi-
cle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe.
And check around again from time to
time to be sure snow doesn’t collect
there.
Open a window just a little on the
side of the vehicle that’s away from
the wind. This will help keep CO out.
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TowingTowing Your VehicleConsult your SUZUKI dealer or a profes-
sional towing service if you need to have
your disabled vehicle towed.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind
another vehicle for recreational purposes
(such as behind a motorhome), see the fol-
lowing section, “Recreational Vehicle Tow-
ing”.Recreational Vehicle TowingRecreational vehicle towing means towing
your vehicle behind another vehicle – such
as behind a motorhome. The two most
common types of recreational vehicle tow-
ing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing
your vehicle with all four wheels on the
ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your
vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a
“dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equip-
ment, many vehicles can be towed in these
ways. See the following sections, “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing”.Here are some important things to con-
sider before you do recreational vehicle
towing:
 What’s the towing capacity of the towing
vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehi-
cle manufacturer’s recommendations.
 How far will you tow? Some vehicles
have restrictions on how far and how
long they can tow.
 Do you have the proper towing equip-
ment? See your SUZUKI dealer or traile-
ring professional for additional advice
and equipment recommendations.
 Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just
as you would prepare your vehicle for a
long trip, you’ll want to make sure your
vehicle is prepared to be towed. See
“Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in this
section.
Dinghy Towing
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed
with all four wheels on the ground. If your
vehicle must be towed, you should use a
dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for
more information.Dolly Towing
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To
tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these
steps:
1) Put the front wheels on the dolly.
2) Put the vehicle in PARK(P) for auto-
matic transaxle and NEUTRAL (N) for
manual transaxle.
3) Set the parking brake and then remove
the ignition key.
4) For a vehicle with an automatic tran-
saxle, remove the hole cover from the
shift lock release slot, insert the key,
WARNING
Always use a safety chain when tow-
ing your vehicle and be sure to
observe federal, state, and local
requirement for trailer hitches, tow
bars, lights, etc.
CAUTION
Towing your vehicle with all four
wheels on the ground will damage
drivetrain components. The repairs
would not be covered by your war-
ranty.
CAUTION
Do not tow the vehicle from the rear
with the front wheels on the road.
This could cause severe transmis-
sion damage.
Towing:

5-3SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
85Z14-03E
To open the fuel filler door, pull up on the
fuel filler door release lever located on the
floor to the left of the driver’s seat.
The fuel cap is located on the passenger’s
side of your vehicle.While refueling, hang the tethered cap
inside the fuel door.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the
left (counterclockwise).
Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or
overfill your tank, and wait a few seconds
after you’ve finished pumping before you
remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted
surfaces as soon as possible. See “Clean-
ing the Outside of Your Vehicle” in this sec-
tion.
When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it
to the right (clockwise) until you hear a
clicking sound. Make sure you fully install
the cap. The diagnostic system can deter-
mine if the fuel cap has been left off or is
improperly installed. This would allow fuel
to evaporate into the atmosphere. See
“Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in section 3.
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WARNING
If you spill fuel and then something
ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Fuel can spray out on you if you open
the fuel cap too quickly. This spray
can happen if your tank is nearly full,
and is more likely in hot weather.
Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for
any “hiss” noise to stop. Then
unscrew the cap all the way.
WARNING
If a fire starts while you’re refueling,
don’t remove the nozzle. Shut off the
flow of fuel by shutting off the pump
or by notifying the station attendant.
Leave the area immediately.
CAUTION
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to
get a genuine SUZUKI cap or its
equivalent. Your SUZUKI dealer can
get one for you. If you get the
improper type, it may not fit properly.
This may cause your malfunction
indicator lamp to light and may dam-
age your fuel tank and emissions
system. See “Malfunction Indicator
Lamp” in the Index.
Fuel:

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SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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Engine Compartment OverviewWhen you open the hood on the engine, you’ll see the following:
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
B. Engine Oil Filler Cap
C. Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir
D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank
E. Underhood Fuse BlockF. B a t t e r y
G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
I. Engine Oil Dipstick
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A
B
D
EG
H
I
F
C
Checking Things Under the Hood:

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SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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1) Park the vehicle on a level surface. You
can remove the coolant surge tank
pressure cap when the cooling system,
including the coolant surge tank pres-
sure cap and upper radiator hose, is no
longer hot. Turn the pressure cap
slowly counterclockwise (left) about two
or two and one-half turns. If you hear a
hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow
any pressure still left to be vented out
the discharge hose.
WARNING
Never turn the cap when the cooling
system, including the coolant surge
tank pressure cap, is hot.
Steam and scalding liquids from a
hot cooling system can blow out and
burn you badly. They are under pres-
sure, and if you loosen the coolant
surge tank pressure cap – even a lit-
tle – they can come out at high
speed. Wait for the cooling system
and coolant surge tank pressure cap
to cool if you ever have to loosen the
pressure cap.
WARNING
Adding only plain water to your cool-
ing system can be dangerous. Plain
water, or some other liquid such as
alcohol, can boil before the proper
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s
coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain
water or the wrong mixture, your
engine could get too hot but you
wouldn’t get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch fire and you
or others could be burned. Use a 60/
40 mixture of clean, drinkable water
and a proper coolant.
L3U5019A
CAUTION
In cold weather, water can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater
core and other parts. Use the recom-
mended coolant and the proper cool-
ant mixture.
WARNING
You can be burned if you spill coolant
on hot engine parts. Coolant con-
tains ethylene glycol and it will burn
if the engine parts are hot enough.
Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
Checking Things Under the Hood:

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SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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HeadlampsTo replace a headlamp bulb:
1) Open the hood.
2) Remove the two bolts and one nut
shown in the illustration that retain the
headlamp assembly.
3) Disconnect the wiring harness connec-
tor from the rear of the bulb.
4) Remove the headlamp cap by turning it
counterclockwise.
5) Release the spring that retains the bulb.
6) Remove the old bulb.
7) Install the new bulb. See “Replacement
Bulbs” in this section for the proper
bulb.
8) Install the bulb retaining spring.
9) Install the wiring harness connector to
the bulb and replace the headlamp cap
by turning it clockwise.10)Reverse the steps 1 and 2 to reinstall
the headlamp assembly. Then, check
the lamps.
Front Turn Signal LampsTo replace a front turn signal lamp bulb:
1) Open the hood.
2) Remove the two bolts and one nut and
remove the headlamp assembly.
3) Turn the front turn signal bulb socket
counterclockwise.
4) Pull the front turn signal bulb socket out
of the lamp housing.
5) Press the bulb inward and turn it coun-
terclockwise to remove it from the bulb
socket.
6) Install the new bulb into the bulb socket
by pressing it in and turning it clock-
wise. See “Replacement Bulbs” in this
section for the proper bulb.7) Install the socket into the lamp housing
by turning it clockwise.
8) Reverse the steps 1 and 2 to reinstall
the headlamp assembly. Then, check
the lamps.
Front Fog LampsTo replace a front fog lamp bulb:
1) Disconnect the wiring harness connec-
tor from the front fog lamp bulb.
2) Rotate the front fog lamp bulb counter-
clockwise and remove it.
3) Replace the bulb. See “Replacement
Bulbs” in this section for the proper
bulb.
4) Connect the wiring harness connector
to the front fog lamp bulb.
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Bulb Replacement:

5-25SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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Center High-Mounted Stop LampTo replace a center high-mounted stop
lamp bulb:
1) Open the liftgate.
2) Pry off the trim and remove the two
screws shown in the illustration.
3) Remove the bulb socket from the lamp
housing.
4) Remove the bulb by pulling it straight
out of the bulb socket.
5) Install the appropriate bulb into the
socket. See “Replacement Bulbs” in
this section.
6) Replace the lamp housing and trim in
reverse order.
Luggage Compartment LampTo replace a luggage compartment lamp
bulb:
1) Use a flat screwdriver to pry the lamp
assembly from the lamp assembly
holder.
2) Replace the bulb. See “Replacement
Bulbs” in this section for the proper
bulb.
3) Reinstall the lamp assembly.
Tail/Stop Lamps and Rear Turn Sig-
nal LampsTo replace a tail/stop lamp or a rear turn
signal lamp bulb:
1) Open the liftgate.
2) Remove the two screws and the lamp
assembly.
3) Remove the bulb socket from the lamp
housing by turning the bulb socket
counterclockwise.
4) Remove the bulb from the socket by
pressing the bulb and turning it counter-
clockwise.
5) Install the appropriate bulb into the
socket. See “Replacement Bulbs” in
this section.
6) Replace the bulb socket into the lamp
housing.
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Bulb Replacement: