check engine light YAMAHA YZ450F 2008 Owners Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: YAMAHA, Model Year: 2008, Model line: YZ450F, Model: YAMAHA YZ450F 2008Pages: 188, PDF Size: 11.75 MB
Page 54 of 188

3-8
ENGINE
CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL 
LEVEL
1. Stand the machine on a level sur-
face.
• When checking the oil level make 
sure that the machine is upright.
• Place the machine on a suitable 
stand.
Never remove the oil tank cap just 
after high speed operation. The 
heated oil could spurt out. causing 
danger. Wait until the oil cools 
down to approximately 70°C 
(158°F).
2. Idle the engine more than 3 min-
utes while keeping the machine 
upright. Then stop the engine and 
inspect the oil level.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank cap 1
4. Inspect:
• Oil level
Check that the engine oil is above 
the level mark "a" and that the oil 
does not come out when the 
check bolt "1" is removed.
Below the level mark "a"
→Add oil 
through the filler cap hole until it is 
above the level mark "a".
Oil comes out at the check bolt
→
Drain the oil until it stops coming 
out.
When inspecting the oil level, do not 
screw the oil level gauge into the oil 
tank. Insert the gauge lightly.
(For USA and CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives. Engine oil also lubricates 
the clutch and additives could 
cause clutch slippage.
• Do not allow foreign material to 
enter the crankcase.
(Except for USA and CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives or use oils with a grade of 
CD "a" or higher.
• Do not use oils labeled "ENERGY 
CONSERVING II" "b" or higher. 
Engine oil also lubricates the 
clutch and additives could cause 
clutch slippage.• Do not allow foreign material to 
enter the crankcase.
5. Start the engine and let it warm up 
for several minutes.
When the oil tank is empty, never 
start the engine.
6. Idle the engine more than 10 sec-
onds while keeping the machine 
upright. Then stop the engine and 
add the oil to the maximum level.
7. Install:
• Oil tank cap
CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL
1. Start the engine and let it warm up 
for several minutes.
2. Stop the engine and place an oil 
pan under the drain bolt.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank plug "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "3"
• Oil filter drain bolt (O-ring) "4"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "5"
Drain the crankcase and oil tank 
of its oil.
4. If the oil filter is to be replaced dur-
ing this oil change, remove the fol-
lowing parts and reinstall them.
Recommended oil:
Yamalube 4, 
SAE10W30 or 
SAE20W40
Yamalube 4-R, 
SAE10W50
API service SG type or 
higher, JASO standard 
MA
Recommended oil:
SAE10W30, 
SAE10W40, 
SAE15W40, SAE20W40 
or SAE20W50
API service SG type or 
higher, JASO standard 
MA 
Page 55 of 188

3-9
ENGINE
Replacement steps:
a. Remove the oil filter element cov-
er "1" and oil filter element "2".
b. Check the O-rings "3", if cracked 
or damaged, replace them with a 
new one.
c. Install the oil filter element and oil 
filter element cover.
5. Install:
• Gaskets  
• Oil filter drain bolt
• Drain bolt (right crankcase)
• Drain bolt (left crankcase)
6. Fill:
• Engine oil7. Install:
• Oil filler cap
8. Inspect:
• Engine (for oil leaks)
• Oil level
Refer to "ENGINE OIL LEVEL IN-
SPECTION".
CHECKING THE OIL PRESSURE
1. Check:
• Oil pressure
Checking steps:
a. Slightly loosen the oil pressure 
check bolt "1".
b. Start the engine and keep it idling 
until oil starts to seep from the oil 
pressure check bolt. If no oil 
comes out after one minute, turn 
the engine off so it will not seize.
c. Check oil passages and oil pump 
for damage or leakage.
d. Start the engine after solving the 
problem(s) and recheck the oil 
pressure.
e. Tighten the oil pressure check 
bolt.
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
To optimize the fuel flow at a smaller 
throttle opening, each machine's pilot 
screw has been individually set at the 
factory. Before adjusting the pilot 
screw, turn it in fully and count the 
number of turns. Record this number 
as the factory-set number of turns 
out.
a. Turn in the pilot screw until it is 
lightly seated.
b. Turn out the pilot screw by the 
factory-set number of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING 
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly 
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Adjust the pilot screw. 
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE PI-
LOT SCREW" section.
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "1" 
until the specified engine idling 
speed.
Using a digital engine tachometer for 
idle speed adjustment, detect the en-
gine idling speed by bringing the 
sensing element "c" of the engine ta-
chometer close to the ignition coil "2".
Oil filter element cover:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 
ft•lb)
Oil filter drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (right crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (left crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 
ft•lb)
Oil quantity:
Periodic oil change:
0.95 L (0.84 Imp qt, 
1.00 US qt)
With oil filter replace-
ment:
1.0 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06 
US qt)
Total amount:
1.2 L (1.06 Imp qt, 1.27 
US qt)
Oil pressure check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 
ft•lb)
Pilot screw (example):
1-1/2 turns out
Digital tachometer:
YU-39951-B/90890-
06760
To increase idle speed
→Turn the 
throttle stop screw "1" in "a".
To decrease idle speed
→Turn 
the throttle stop screw "1" out 
"b".
Engine idling speed:
1,900–2,100 r/min 
Page 68 of 188

3-22
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage
→Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to 
light tan color.
Distinctly different color
→Check 
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours 
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good 
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness 
gauge.
Out of specification
→Regap.
4. Clean the plug with a spark plug 
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean 
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug 
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"2. Attach:
• Timing light
• Inductive tachometer
To the ignition coil lead (orange 
lead"1").
3. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE EN-
GINE IDLING SPEED" section.
4. Check:
• Ignition timing
Visually check the stationary 
pointer "a" is within the firing 
range "b" on the rotor.
Incorrect firing range
→Check ro-
tor and pickup assembly.
5. Install:
• Timing mark accessing screw Spark plug gap:
0.7–0.8 mm (0.028–
0.031 in)
Spark plug:
13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4 
ft•lb)
Timing light:
YM-33277-A/90890-
03141 
Page 85 of 188

4-17
CAMSHAFTS
Measurement steps:
a. Install the camshaft onto the cylin-
der head.
b. Position a strip of Plastigauge
® 
"1" onto the camshaft.
c. Install the clip, dowel pins and 
camshaft caps.
• Tighten the bolts (camshaft cap) in 
a crisscross pattern from innermost 
to outer caps.
• Do not turn the camshaft when 
measuring clearance with the Plas-
tigauge
®.
d. Remove the camshaft caps and 
measure the width of the Plasti-
gauge
® "1".
5. Measure:
• Camshaft outside diameter "a"
Out of specification
→Replace 
the camshaft.
Within specification
→Replace 
camshaft case and camshaft 
caps as a set.CHECKING THE CAMSHAFT 
SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Camshaft sprocket "1"
Wear/damage
→Replace the 
camshaft assembly and timing 
chain as a set.
CHECKING THE 
DECOMPRESSION SYSTEM
1. Check:
• Decompression system
Checking steps:
a. Check that the decompression 
mechanism cam "1" moves 
smoothly.
b. Check that the decompression 
mechanism cam lever pin "2" 
projects from the camshaft.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN 
TENSIONER
1. Check:
• While pressing the tensioner rod 
lightly with fingers, use a thin 
screwdriver "1" and wind the ten-
sioner rod up fully clockwise.
• When releasing the screwdriver 
by pressing lightly with fingers, 
make sure that the tensioner rod 
will come out smoothly.
• If not, replace the tensioner as-
sembly.INSTALLING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Install:
• Exhaust camshaft "1"
• Intake camshaft "2"
Installation steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil 
on the camshafts.
• Apply the engine oil on the decom-
pression system.
b. Align the T.D.C. mark "a" on the 
rotor with the align mark "b" on the 
crankcase cover when piston is at 
T.D.C. on compression stroke.
c. Fit the timing chain "3" onto both 
camshaft sprockets and install the 
camshafts on the cylinder head.
The camshafts should be installed 
onto the cylinder head so that the 
punch mark "c" on the exhaust cam-
shaft and the punch mark "d" on the 
intake camshaft must align with the 
cylinder head surface, as shown in 
the illustration.
Camshaft-to-cap clear-
ance:
0.028–0.062 mm 
(0.0011–0.0024 in)
in)
Bolt (camshaft cap):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 
ft•lb)
Camshaft outside diame-
ter:
21.959–21.972 mm 
(0.8645–0.8650 in) 
Page 93 of 188

4-25
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"
Out of specification
→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Compressed spring force "a"
Out of specification
→Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"
Out of specification
→Replace.CHECKING THE VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect:
• Valve lifter
Scratches/damage
→Replace 
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply:
• Molybdenum disulfide oil
Onto the valve stem and valve 
stem seal.
2. Install:
• Valves "1"
• Valve spring seats "2"
• Valve stem seals "3" 
• Valve springs "4"
• Valve spring retainers "5"
• Make sure that each valve is in-
stalled in its original place, also re-
ferring to the painted color as 
follows.
Intake (middle) "a": blue
Intake (right/left) "b": gray
Exhaust "c": brown
• Install the valve springs with the 
larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch3. Install:
• Valve cotters
While compressing the valve spring 
with a valve spring compressor "1" in-
stall the valve cotters.
4. To secure the valve cotters onto 
the valve stem, lightly tap the 
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive 
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:
• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil 
on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly 
when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters 
and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve 
spring):
Intake:
37.03 mm (1.46 in)
(1.42 in)
Exhaust:
37.68 mm (1.48 in)
(1.44 in)
Compressed spring 
force:
Intake:
111.3–127.9 N at 27.87 
mm (11.3–13.0 kg at 
27.87 mm, 24.91–
28.66 lb at 1.10 in)
Exhaust:
127.4–146.4 N at 27.38 
mm (13.0–14.9 kg at 
27.38 mm, 28.66–
32.85 lb at 1.08 in)
Spring tilt limit:
Intake:
2.5°/1.61 mm (0.063 
in)
Exhaust:
2.5°/1.65 mm (0.065 
in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-4019/90890-04019 
Page 124 of 188

4-56
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
DISASSEMBLING THE 
CRANKCASE
1. Separate:
• Right crankcase
• Left crankcase
Separation steps:
a. Remove the crankcase bolts, 
hose guide and clutch cable hold-
er.
Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn at a 
time and after all the bolts are loos-
ened, remove them.
b. Remove the right crankcase "1".
• Place the crankcase with its left 
side downward and split it by insert-
ing a screwdriver tip into the split-
ting slit "a" in the crankcase.
• Lift the right crankcase horizontally 
while lightly patting the case split-
ting slit and engine mounting boss 
using a soft hammer, and leave the 
crankshaft and transmission with 
the left crankcase.
Use soft hammer to tap on the 
case half. Tap only on reinforced 
portions of case. Do not tap on 
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the 
case halves separate evenly.  If the 
cases do not separate, check for a 
remaining case bolt or fitting. Do 
not force.
c. Remove the dowel pins and O-
ring.
REMOVING THE BALANCER 
SHAFT
1. Remove:
• Balancer shaft "1"
Remove the balancer shaft with its 
flat side "a" facing the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating 
tool "2".
Install the crankcase separating tool 
as shown.
Do not use a hammer to drive out 
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE 
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the 
crankcase by pressing its inner 
race.
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN 
AND TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Timing chain
Cracks/stiff
→Replace the timing 
chain and camshaft sprocket as a 
set.
2. Inspect:
• Timing chain guide
Wear/damage
→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches
→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage
→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure
→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal
Damage
→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side 
clearance "c"
Crankcase separating 
tool:
YU-A9642/90890-04152 
Page 126 of 188

4-58
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
5. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• O-ring "2" 
• Right crankcase
To left crankcase.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease 
on the O-ring.
• Fit the right crankcase onto the left 
crankcase. Tap lightly on the case 
with soft hammer.
• When installing the crankcase, the 
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
6. Tighten:
• Bolt (hose guide) "1"
• Bolt (crankcase)
Tighten the crankcase tightening 
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Timing chain
• Timing chain guide (intake side)
• Bolt (timing chain guide)
8. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating 
surface.9. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing and oil 
delivery hole.
10. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation
→Repair.
Bolt (crankcase):
12 Nm (1.2 m•kg, 8.7 
ft•lb)
Bolt (timing chain guide):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 
ft•lb) 
Page 178 of 188

7-1
ENGINE
TUNING
ENGINE
CARBURETOR SETTING
• The air/fuel mixture will vary de-
pending on atmospheric conditions. 
Therefore, it is necessary to take 
into consideration the air pressure, 
ambient temperature, humidity, 
etc., when adjusting the carburetor.
• Perform a test run to check for prop-
er engine performance (e.g., throt-
tle response) and spark plug(-s) 
discoloration or fouling. Use these 
readings to determine the best pos-
sible carburetor setting.
It is recommended to keep a record of 
all carburetor settings and external 
conditions (e.g., atmospheric condi-
tions, track/surface conditions, lap 
times) to make future carburetor set-
ting easier.
• The carburetor is a part of the 
fuel line. Therefore, be sure to in-
stall it in a wellventilated area, 
away from flammable objects 
and any sources of fire.
• Never look into the carburetor in-
take. Flames may shoot out from 
the pipe if the engine backfires 
while it is being started. Gasoline 
may be discharged from the ac-
celerator pump nozzle when the 
carburetor has been removed.
• The carburetor is extremely sen-
sitive to foreign matter (dirt, 
sand, water, etc.). During instal-
lation, do not allow foreign mat-
ter to get into the carburetor.
• Always handle the carburetor 
and its components carefully. 
Even slight scratches, bends or 
damage to carburetor parts may 
prevent the carburetor from 
functioning correctly. Carefully 
perform all servicing with the ap-
propriate tools and without ap-
plying excessive force.
• When the engine is stopped or 
when riding at no load, do not 
open and close the throttle un-
necessarily. Otherwise, too 
much fuel may be discharged, 
starting may become difficult or 
the engine may not run well.
• After installing the carburetor, 
check that the throttle operates correctly and opens and closes 
smoothly.
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS AND 
CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The air density (i.e., concentration of 
oxygen in the air) determines the rich-
ness or leanness of the air/fuel mix-
ture.
• Higher temperature expands the air 
with its resultant reduced density.
• Higher humidity reduces the 
amount of oxygen in the air by so 
much of the water vapor in the 
same air.
• Lower atmospheric pressure (at a 
high altitude) reduces the density of 
the air.
EFFECT OF SETTING PARTS IN 
RELATION TO THROTTLE VALVE 
OPENING
A. Closed
B. Fully open
1. Pilot screw/pilot jet
2. Throttle valve cutaway
3. Jet needle
4. Main jetCONSTRUCTION OF 
CARBURETOR AND SETTING 
PARTS
The FLATCR carburetor has a prima-
ry main jet. This type of main jet is 
perfect for racing machines since it 
supplies an even flow of fuel, even at 
full load. Use the main jet and the jet 
needle to set the carburetor.
The FLATCR carburetor is manufac-
tured with a pilot screw. The pilot 
screw adjustment ranges from fully 
closed throttle to 1/4 open throttle.
1. Jet needle
2. Pilot air jet
3. Needle jet
4. Main jet
5. Pilot jet
6. Pilot screw
ADJUSTING THE MAIN JET
The richness of the air-fuel mixture at 
full throttle can be set by changing the 
main jet "1".
If the air-fuel mixture is too rich or too 
lean, the engine power will drop, re-
sulting in poor acceleration.
Effects of changing the main jet 
(reference)
A. Idle
B. Fully open
1. #162
2. #158 Air 
tem
p.Hu-
midi-
tyAir 
pres-
sure 
(alti-
tude)Mix-
tureSet-
ting
High HighLow 
(high)Rich-
erLean-
er
Low LowHigh 
(low)Lean-
erRich-
er
Standard main jet #160