tow CADILLAC ESCALADE ESV 2008 Repair Manual

Page 354 of 500

4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the
reading.
5. If the uid level is below the COLD check band,
add only enough uid as necessary to bring the
level into the COLD band. It does not take
much uid, generally less than one pint (0.5L).
Do not overll.
6. Perform a hot check at the rst opportunity after
the transmission reaches a normal operating
temperature between 160°F to 200°F (71°C to 93°C).
7. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way, then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place. Hot Check Procedure Use this procedure to check the transmission uid level
when the transmission uid temperature is between
160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C).
The hot check is the most accurate method to check
the uid level. The hot check should be performed at
the rst opportunity in order to verify the cold check.
The uid level rises as uid temperature increases, so
it is important to ensure the transmission temperature is
within range.
1. Locate the transmission dipstick at the rear of the
engine compartment, on the passenger side of the
vehicle.
The dipstick handle has
this graphic. See Engine
Compartment Overview
on page 5-12 for more
information.
2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way,
wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again.
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Page 359 of 500

CAUTION: (Continued) If you keep driving when the vehicles engine
is overheated, the liquids in it can catch re.
You or others could be badly burned. Stop
your engine if it overheats, and get out of the
vehicle until the engine is cool.
See Overheated Engine Protection Operating
Mode on page 5-28 for information on driving
to a safe place in an emergency.
Notice: If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine
Protection Operating Mode on page 5-28 for
information on driving to a safe place in an
emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the
ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message, along
with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious
problem.
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-44 .
If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or
the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message
with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
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Page 360 of 500

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an
engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator
until the engine speed is about twice as fast as
normal idle speed for at least ve minutes while you
are parked.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has
an electric cooling fan, idle the engine for at least
ve minutes while you are parked.
If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also,
see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode”
later in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away. Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the
ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message is displayed,
an overheat protection mode which alternates ring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage.
In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine
performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle
to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving
extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the
overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice: After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil
and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil
on page 5-14 .
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Page 365 of 500

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine
cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
6. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off and the
coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant ll
procedure Steps 1 through 6. Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has electric cooling fans. You might hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans can turn off if no cooling is required.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or
high outside temperatures, or if you are operating the
air conditioning system, the fans can change to
high speed and you might hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system
is functioning properly. The fans change to low speed
when additional cooling is no longer required.
5-33

Page 402 of 500

When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the
correct rotation pattern shown here.
Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the
front and rear ination pressures as shown
on the Tire and Loading Information label.
See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35 .
Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System.
See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on
page 5-65 . Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-115 .
{ CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt
off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-79 .
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-94 .
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Page 410 of 500

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. { CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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Page 414 of 500

To access the spare tire:
A. Hoist Assembly
B. Hoist Shaft
C. Hoist Shaft Access
Cover/Hole
D. Jack Handle
Extensions
E. Wheel Wrench
F. Hoist Cable G. Tire/Wheel Retainer
H. Spare Tire (Valve Stem
Pointed Down)
I. Hoist Shaft Access Hole
J. Hoist End of
Extension Tool
K. Spare Tire Lock
1. To reach the hoist shaft access cover (C),
you will rst need to remove the hitch cover. Remove it by turning the two fasteners located at
the bottom of the cover counterclockwise and
then pull the cover down and rotate towards you.
2. Open the hoist shaft access cover (C) on the
bumper to access the spare tire lock (K).
3. To remove the spare tire lock insert the ignition key,
turn it clockwise and then pull it.
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Page 415 of 500

4. Assemble the two jack handle extensions (D) and
wheel wrench (E) as shown.
5. Insert the open end
of the extension (J)
through the hole in
the rear bumper (I)
(hoist shaft
access hole).
Be sure the hoist end (J) of the extension (D)
connects to the hoist shaft (B). The ribbed square
end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire. 6. Turn the wheel wrench (E) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire (H) to the ground. Continue
to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be
pulled out from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground,
the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. See Secondary Latch System
on page 5-90 for more information.
7. Use the wheel wrench
hook that allows you to
pull the hoist cable
towards you, to assist
in reaching the
spare tire.
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Page 416 of 500

8. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle with some slack in
the cable to access the tire/wheel retainer (G).
Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding
the retainer up the pin while pressing down on
the latch. Once the retainer is separated from the pin,
tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the
wheel along with the cable and latch.
9. Put the spare tire near the at tire.
5-84

Page 420 of 500

{ CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on
page 5-79 . 7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces, and
spare wheel.
{ CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Because the nuts might come loose. The
vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
8. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end
of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the
spare tire.
5-88

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