check engine DODGE NEON 2000 Service User Guide

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PEDAL PULSATES/SURGES
DURING BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or rotors
as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum supply.
Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
PREMATURE REAR WHEEL
LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles only).2. Test proportioning valves folowing
procedure listed in diagnosis and testing
section. Replace valves as necessary.
3. ABS EBD not functioning. 3. Refer to the ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
4. Improper power brake booster
assist.4. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP LAMPS STAY ON 1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Adjust brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO RIGHT
OR LEFT ON BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper. Bleed
brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear brakes out of adjustment. 1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or rear
parking brake shoes on vehicles with rear
disc brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If thepedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the side of the
vacuum check valve that leads to the speed control,
then connect a vacuum gauge to the open vacuum
port on the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
PLBRAKES 5 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches,
continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8)
Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches, the hose or check to the booster has a restric-
tion or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the side of the
power brake booster vacuum check valve that leads
to the speed control, then connect a vacuum gauge to
the open vacuum port on the valve.
(2) Remove the remaining hose on the vacuum
check valve that is not the vacuum supply hose com-
ing from the intake manifold. Cap off the open port
on the check valve.
(3) Start the engine.
(4) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(5) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(6) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(7) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(8) Have an assistant reattach the pliers to the
vacuum supply hose.
(9) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
DRUM BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
To properly test the drum brake automatic
adjuster, the aide of a helper inside the vehicle to
apply the brakes will be necessary.(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the access plug from the rear adjust-
ment slot in each brake support plate.
(3) Insert a thin screwdriver in the adjustment
slot and push back the adjustment lever. With the
lever in this position, back the star wheel adjustment
off approximately 10 notches. This will eliminate the
possibility that the brake is at full adjustment, and
can be adjusted no further.
(4)
Remove the screwdriver from the adjustment slot.
(5) Watch the star wheel through the adjustment
slot, while a helper applies the brake pedal. As the
brake shoes apply, the adjustment lever should move
downward, turning the star wheel. A definite rotation
of the adjuster star wheel can be observed if the
automatic adjuster is working properly.
If the star wheel does not move as indicated, the
brake drum needs to be removed and further inspec-
tion of the rear brakes is necessary.
(6) If the star wheel is operating properly, readjust
the brakes. Refer to ADJUSTMENTS in this section
of this service manual group.
(7) Reinstall the adjustment slot access plug.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
BRAKE ROTOR
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to
maintain the rotor within service tolerances to
ensure proper brake action.
Excessive runout or wobble in a rotor can increase
pedal travel due to piston knock-back. This increases
guide pin sleeve wear due to the tendency of the cal-
iper to follow the rotor wobble.
When diagnosing a brake noise or pulsation, the
machined disc braking surface should be checked and
inspected.
BRAKING SURFACE INSPECTION
Light braking surface scoring and wear is accept-
able. If heavy scoring or warping is evident, the rotor
must be refaced or replaced. Refer to SERVICE PRO-
CEDURES in this section of this group for informa-
tion on brake rotor machining.
Excessive wear and scoring of the rotor can cause
improper lining contact on the rotor's braking sur-
face. If the ridges on the rotor are not removed before
new brake shoes are installed, improper wear of the
shoes will result.
If a vehicle has not been driven for a period of
time, the rotor's braking surface will rust in the
areas not covered by the brake shoes at that time.
Once the vehicle is driven, noise and chatter from
the disc brakes can result when the brakes are
applied.
5 - 12 BRAKESPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(4) Gently pull back on the brake pedal until the
pedal stops moving. This will ratchet the switch
plunger backward to the correct adjustment position.
(5) Check the stop lamps to verify they are operat-
ing properly and not staying on when the pedal is in
the released position.
MASTER CYLINDER
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The vacuum in the power brake booster
must be pumped down before removing the master
cylinder to prevent the booster from sucking in any
contamination. This can be done by pumping the
brake pedal while the engine is not running until a
firm brake pedal is achieved.
(1) With the engine not running, pump the brake
pedal 4-5 strokes until the pedal feel is firm.
(2) Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from
the battery and isolate the cable.
(3) Disconnect the positive cable from the battery,
then remove the battery from the battery tray. There
is one nut securing the clamp on the backside of the
battery holding it in place.
(4) Remove the vehicle wiring harness connector
from brake fluid level switch in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 44).(5) Disconnect the two brake tubes from the mas-
ter cylinder, and two brake tubes from the propor-
tioning valves (Fig. 45). Install plugs at all of the
open brake tube outlets on the master cylinder.
(6) Clean the area around where the master cylin-
der attaches to the power brake booster using a suit-
able brake cleaner such as MopartBrake Parts
Cleaner or an equivalent.
(7) Remove the two nuts attaching the master cyl-
inder to the power brake booster.
(8) Slide the master cylinder straight out of the
power brake booster.
(9) To remove the proportioning valves, unthread
each from the master cylinder.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The master cylinder must be bled before
installing it on the vehicle.
(1) If removed, install the proportioning valves in
their master cylinder ports. The valves are identical,
so they can be installed in either master cylinder
port going to the rear brakes. Make sure the O-rings
on the proportioning valves are new.
(2) Bleed the master cylinder before installing it
on the vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING in SERVICE PROCEDURES within this
section of this service manual group.
(3) Wipe the face of the power brake booster clean
where the master cylinder seal comes in contact
when it's installed. Do not get any cleaner or debris
inside the booster.
Fig. 44 Master Cylinder
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PARTS IDENTIFICATION TAG
2 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 ± BRAKE FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH
4 ± MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 45 Brake Tubes At Master Cylinder
1 ± RIGHT FRONT BRAKE TUBE
2 ± LEFT FRONT BRAKE TUBE
3 ± LEFT REAR BRAKE TUBE
4 ± REAR PROPORTIONING VALVES
5 ± RIGHT REAR BRAKE TUBE
5 - 28 BRAKESPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(4) Fill the reservoir with fresh clean DOT 3 brake
fluid. Refer to BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CHECKING
in the SERVICE PROCEDURES section in this sec-
tion of this service manual group.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the vehicle wiring harness connector
from brake fluid level switch in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 44).
(2) Push together the retaining tabs holding the
brake fluid level switch in place in the brake fluid
reservoir (Fig. 46).
(3) Pull the brake fluid level switch out the other
side of the reservoir.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the brake fluid level switch with its
mounting hole on the left side of the master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir. Push the switch into the fluid
reservoir until the switch retaining tabs are
expanded on the other side of the reservoir, locking it
in place (Fig. 46).
(2) Connect the brake fluid level switch wiring
connector (Fig. 44).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the
battery and isolate the cable.
(2) Disconnect the positive cable from the battery,
then remove the battery from the battery tray. There
is one nut securing the clamp on the backside of the
battery holding it in place.
(3) Remove the one nut and one bolt securing the
air cleaner box in place, then disconnect the wiring
harness connector at the air inlet sensor.
(4) Lift the air cleaner box upward enough to clear
its grommeted alignment post (Fig. 48), then move
the air cleaner box forward just enough to access the
battery tray mounting bolts.(5) Remove the 2 bolts, then the 2 nuts mounting
the battery tray to its bracket (Fig. 48). Remove the
battery tray.
CAUTION: The vacuum in the power brake booster
must be pumped down before removing the master
cylinder to prevent the booster from sucking in any
contamination. This can be done by pumping the
brake pedal 4-5 times while the engine is not run-
ning until a firm brake pedal is achieved.
(6) Remove the master cylinder. For the master
cylinder without ABS removal and installation proce-
dure, refer to MASTER CYLINDER in this section of
this service manual group. For the master cylinder
with ABS removal and installation procedure, refer
to MASTER CYLINDER in the ANTILOCK BRAKE
SYSTEM section of this service manual group.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, remove the
integrated control unit (ICU). Refer to INTEGRATED
CONTROL UNIT in REMOVAL AND INSTALLA-
TION within the ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM sec-
tion of this service manual group for the procedure.
(8) If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, remove the
three bolts securing the ICU mounting bracket to the
frame rail.
(9) Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the check
valve on the power brake booster (Fig. 49), but do not
remove the check valve from power brake booster.
(10) Locate the brake pedal-to-power brake booster
input rod attachment under the instrument panel.
Position a small screwdriver (Fig. 50) under the cen-
ter tang of the retaining clip. Rotate the screwdriver
enough to allow the retaining clip tang to pass over
the end of the brake pedal pin. Remove the clip.
Fig. 48 Battery Tray Mounting
1 ± BATTERY TRAY MOUNTING NUTS
2 ± BATTERY TRAY MOUNTING BOLTS
3 ± AIR CLEANER BOX POST
5 - 30 BRAKESPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

CAUTION: Discard the used retaining clip, it is not
to be reused. Replace the clip with a new one on
reassembly.
(11) Remove the four nuts attaching the power
brake booster to the instrument panel (Fig. 51). The
nuts are accessible from under the instrument panel
in the area of the brake pedal bracket.
(12) Slide the power brake booster forward until
mounting studs clear the instrument panel. Turn the
booster sideways (Fig. 52), then remove it from the
vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Turn the power brake booster sideways (Fig.
52), then install it into the engine compartment down
past the heater hoses and the strut tower. Rotate the
booster so its four mounting studs and input rod are
pointed straight toward the instrument panel. Slide
the input rod and studs through the instrument
panel and into mounting position.
(2) Under the instrument panel, install the four
power brake booster mounting nuts (Fig. 51). Tighten
the nuts to a torque of 34 N´m (300 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or an equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal pin where it contacts the
brake booster input rod.
Fig. 49 Vacuum Check Valve
1 ± VACUUM CHECK VALVE
Fig. 50 Retaining Clip
1 ± BRAKE PEDAL
2 ± INPUT ROD
3 ± SCREWDRIVER
4 ± RETAINING CLIP
5 ± BRAKE PEDAL PIN
Fig. 51 Power Brake Booster Mounting
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
2 ± BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 52 Booster Removal/Installation
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
PLBRAKES 5 - 31
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(4) Install piston into caliper bore pushing it past
the piston seal until it bottoms in the caliper bore
(Fig. 122).
(5) Position the dust boot into the counterbore of
the caliper assembly piston bore.
(6) Using a hammer and Installer, Special Tool
C-4689, and Handle, Special Tool C-4171, drive the
boot into the counterbore of the caliper (Fig. 123).
(7) Install the brake shoes.
(8) Reinstall the caliper on the vehicle and bleed
the brakes as necessary. Follow the installation pro-
cedure found in DISC BRAKE CALIPER in the
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION section in this sec-
tion of this service manual group.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes. Inspection of brake hoses should be per-
formed whenever the brake system is serviced and
every 7,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes
first (every engine oil change). Inspect hydraulic
brake hoses for severe surface cracking, scuffing,
worn spots or physical damage. If the fabric casing of
the rubber hose becomes exposed due to cracks or
abrasions in the rubber hose cover, the hose should
be replaced immediately. Eventual deterioration of
the hose can take place with possible burst failure.
Faulty installation can cause twisting, resulting in
wheel, tire, or chassis interference.The steel brake tubing should be inspected period-
ically for evidence of corrosion, physical damage or
contact with moving or hot components of the vehi-
cle.
DISC BRAKES (FRONT)
BRAKE SHOES
Clean the front brake shoes and calipers with a
water-dampened cloth or with a brake cleaner. Do
not use a petroleum based product.
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter-
mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary.
Remove the front disc brake shoes. Refer to DISC
BRAKE SHOES in the REMOVAL AND INSTALLA-
TION section in this section of this service manual
group.
The combined brake shoe and lining material
thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of
the assembly.
When a set of brake shoes are worn to a total
thickness of approximately 7.95 mm (5/16 inch) or
less, they should be replaced.
Replace both brake shoe assemblies (inboard and
outboard). It is necessary that both front wheel sets
be replaced whenever brake shoe assemblies on
either side are replaced.
Fig. 122 Installing Piston Into Caliper Bore
1 ± BOOT
2 ± PISTON
3 ± CALIPER
Fig. 123 Installing Dust Boot In Caliper Counterbore
1 ± HAMMER
2 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-4171
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-4689
4 ± CALIPER
PLBRAKES 5 - 59
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
FACING COVERED
WITH OIL OR
GREASEOil leak at engine rear main or transaxle
input shaft sealCorrect leak and replace modular clutch
assembly
Too much grease applied to splines of disc
and input shaftApply lighter coating of grease to splines
NO FAULT FOUND
WITH CLUTCH
COMPONENTSProblem actually related to suspension or
driveline componentFurther diagnosis required. Check
engine/transmission mounts, suspension
attaching parts and other driveline
components as needed.
Engine related problems Check EFI and ignition systems
PARTIAL
ENGAGEMENT OF
CLUTCH DISCClutch cover, spring, or release fingers
bent, distorted (rough handling, improper
assembly)Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch disc damaged or distorted Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch misalignment Check alignment and runout of flywheel,
disc, or cover. Check clutch housing to
engine dowels and dowel holes for damage.
Correct as necessary.
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC FACING
WORN OUTNormal wear. Replace modular clutch assembly.
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch, results
in rapid wear overheating.Replace modular clutch assembly
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm spring
tensionReplace modular clutch assembly
CLUTCH DISC
FACING
CONTAMINATED
WITH OIL OR
GREASELeak at rear main oil seal or transaxle input
shaft sealReplace leaking seals. Replace modular
clutch assembly.
Excessive amount of grease applied to
input shaft splinesApply less grease to input shaft. Replace
modular clutch assembly
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect clutch assembly.
CLUTCH IS
RUNNING
PARTIALLY
DISENGAGEDRelease bearing sticking or binding, does
not return to normal running position.Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then,
replace bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer if sleeve surface is
damaged.
Cable self-adjuster mechanism sticking or
binding causing high preloadVerify that self-adjuster is free to move
PLCLUTCH 6 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

the ignition key to the start position. The engine
starter should crank. If the starter does not crank,
visually inspect the clutch pedal for obstructions
(floor mat, etc.). Also make sure the clutch pedal
blade contacts and fully
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals2&3with the interlock switchnot depressed (clutch pedal at rest). There should be
no continuity between the terminals (open circuit).
(5) Fully depress the clutch pedal to close the
switch at least 1.25 mm (0.050 in.). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
UPSTOP SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Start engine and operate speed control to main-
tain speed.
(3) Depress clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30 in.).
Speed control operation should terminate. If speed
control does not terminate, the upstop switch is
defective or the related wiring is shorted. Proceed to
the upstop switch electrical test.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals1&2with the upstop switch
depressed (clutch pedal at rest). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(5) Depress the clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30
in.) check for continuity between terminals1&2.
There should be no continuity between the terminals
(open circuit).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
Fig. 6 Clutch/Brake Pedal Bracket Assembly
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 6 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)