electrical DODGE NEON 2000 Service User Guide

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

the ignition key to the start position. The engine
starter should crank. If the starter does not crank,
visually inspect the clutch pedal for obstructions
(floor mat, etc.). Also make sure the clutch pedal
blade contacts and fully
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals2&3with the interlock switchnot depressed (clutch pedal at rest). There should be
no continuity between the terminals (open circuit).
(5) Fully depress the clutch pedal to close the
switch at least 1.25 mm (0.050 in.). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
UPSTOP SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Start engine and operate speed control to main-
tain speed.
(3) Depress clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30 in.).
Speed control operation should terminate. If speed
control does not terminate, the upstop switch is
defective or the related wiring is shorted. Proceed to
the upstop switch electrical test.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the ªOFF/LOCKº position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals1&2with the upstop switch
depressed (clutch pedal at rest). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(5) Depress the clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30
in.) check for continuity between terminals1&2.
There should be no continuity between the terminals
(open circuit).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams and repair
defective wiring.
Fig. 6 Clutch/Brake Pedal Bracket Assembly
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 6 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(8) Connect starter electrical harness and tighten
positive cable nut to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install bellhousing dust cover (Fig. 14).
(10) Install left engine-to-transaxle bending brace
(Fig. 14).(11) Install structural collar (Fig. 14) as follows:
(a) Position collar and install all bolts finger
tight.
(b) Tighten the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 3 N´m
(30 in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Tighten the collar-to-transaxle bolts to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Final torque the collar-to-oil pan bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install the right lateral bending brace and
tighten bolts to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 15).
(13) Install both front axle driveshafts. Refer to
Group 3, Differential and Driveline for the correct
procedures.
(14) Fill transaxle with suitable amount of Mopart
Manual Transaxle Lubricant (PN 04874465).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Connect vehicle speed sensor connector (Fig.
13).
(17) Connect shift crossover and selector cables to
shift lever. Install cables to bracket and install
retaining clips (Fig. 12).
(18) Connect clutch cable to fork and secure to
transaxle (Fig. 11).
(19) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 11).
(20) Connect back-up lamp switch connector.
(21) Connect ground strap to transaxle upper
mount bracket.
(22) Install battery lower tray and battery, and
tighten battery hold down clamp to secure battery.
(23) Install the air cleaner/throttle body assy. as
follows:
(a) Connect the accelerator and speed control (if
equipped) cables to the air cleaner/throttle body
assy.
(b) Install assy into position, making sure the
air cleaner locating slot is engaged to the battery
bracket tab, and tighten fasteners to 14 N´m (120
in. lbs.) torque.
(c) Verify throttle body duct is fully seated to
intake manifold and tighten clamp to 5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.) torque.
(d) Connect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(e) Connect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(24) Connect the battery cables.
(25) Road test vehicle and inspect for leaks.
Fig. 16 Starter Motor Removal/InstallationÐTypical
1 ± BOLT
2 ± GROUND
3±STARTER
4 ± BOLT
Fig. 17 Transaxle Upper Mount Thru-BoltÐTypical
1 ± MOUNT BRACKET
2 ± BOLT
3 ± MOUNT
PLCLUTCH 6 - 11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

protection. MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent is
recommended for best engine cooling without corro-
sion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh
properly mixed solution.
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM
This system works in conjunction with the radiator
pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and con-
traction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. The system provides space for expansion
and contraction. Also, the system provides a conve-
nient and safe method for checking and adjusting the
coolant level at atmospheric pressure without remov-
ing the pressure cap. It also provides some reserve
coolant to compensate for minor leaks and evapora-
tion or boiling losses. All vehicles are equipped with
this system (Fig. 2).
Refer to Coolant Level Check, Deaeration, and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service.
ENGINE THERMOSTAT
The engine thermostat is located on the front of
the engine (radiator side) in the thermostat housing/
engine outlet connector. The thermostat has an air
bleed (vent) located in the flange and a O-ring for
sealing incorporate on it. There is a relief in the ther-
mostat housing/outlet connector for the O-ring.
The engine thermostat is a wax pellet driven,
reverse poppet choke type. It is designed to provide
the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage
through it and to guarantee a minimum engine oper-
ating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC (192 to 199ÉF). Also,
the thermostat will automatically reach wide open, to
accommodate unrestricted flow to the radiator astemperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan,
and ambient temperatureÐnot the thermostat.
A thermostats primary purpose is to maintain
engine temperature in a range that will provide sat-
isfactory engine performance and emission levels
under all expected driving conditions. It also provides
hot water (coolant) for heater performance. It does
this by transferring heat from engine metal and
automatic transmission oil cooler (if equipped) to
coolant, moving this heated coolant to the heater core
and radiator, and then transferring this heat to the
ambient air.
RADIATOR
The radiator is a down-flow type (vertical tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength,
as well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep
the engine coolant within operating temperatures.
The radiator functions as a heat exchanger, using
air flow across the exterior of the radiator tubes. This
heat is then transferred from the coolant and into
the passing air.
The radiator has an aluminum core with plastic
tanks. Although stronger than brass, plastic tanks
are subject to damage by impact. Always handle radi-
ator with care.
RADIATOR COOLING FAN MODULE
The radiator cooling fan is a single speed electric
motor driven fan. The fan module includes an electric
motor, fan blade, and a support shroud that is
attached to the radiator (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 Coolant Recovery System
1 ± RECOVERY HOSE
2 ± ENGINE COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 ± PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 3 Radiator Fan
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

(3) Remove thermostat/engine outlet connector
bolts (Fig. 22).
(4) Remove thermostat and O-ring assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all sealing surfaces.
(2) Place the new thermostat assembly into the
thermostat housing/outlet connector. Align vent with
notch in cylinder head.
(3) Install thermostat housing/outlet connector
onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N´m (110
in. lbs.).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Connect the coolant recovery/reserve system
hose.
(6) Refill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure in
this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.
(4) Disconnect and cap automatic transmission
hoses, if equipped.(5) Disconnect cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(6) Remove cooling fan module retaining screws,
located on the top of the shroud (Fig. 23). Lift shroud
up and out of bottom shroud attachment clips sepa-
rating shroud from radiator.
(7) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(8) Remove upper radiator isolator bracket mount-
ing screws (Fig. 24). Disconnect the engine block
heater wire, if equipped.
(9) Remove the air conditioning condenser attach-
ing screws located at the front of the radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), then lean condenser forward.
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the air con-
ditioning system to remove the radiator.
Fig. 22 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector
1 ± PRESSURE CAP
2 ± THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR
3 ± THERMOSTAT
4 ± O-RING
5 ± VENT FACING UP
Fig. 23 Fan Module Mounting
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 24 Radiator Mounting
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(10) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine
compartment.Care should be taken not to dam-
age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during
removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radia-
tor support (yoke).
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 25), with four mounting screws.
Tighten screws to 5.4 N´m (50 in. lbs.). Then seat the
radiator assembly lower rubber isolators into the
mounting holes provided in the lower crossmember.
(3) Install and tighten radiator isolator mounting
bracket screws to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24). The
radiator should have clearance to move up, approxi-
mately 5±8 mm (0.20±0.31 in.) after assembled.
(4) Install lower radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so it will not interfere with engine
components.
(5) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 2 N´m (18 in. lbs.).
(6) Slide fan module down into clip(s) on lower
radiator flange (Fig. 23). Install retaining screws and
tighten to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect the cooling fan motor electrical connec-
tor.
(8) Install upper radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so they will not interfere with the
engine or the hood.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
(10) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to pro-
cedure in this section.
(11) Operate engine until it reaches normal operat-
ing temperature. Check cooling system and auto-
matic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 26) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N´m (18-25 in. lbs.).
COOLING FAN MODULE
All models use a single speed electric motor driven
cooling system fan. The fan module includes a motor,
fan blade, and support shroud. The module is fas-
tened to the radiator by screws.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system below upper radiator hose
level. Refer to procedure in this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator hose from radiator (Fig.
27).
(4) Disconnect fan module electrical connector.
(5) Remove fan module screws from radiator (Fig.
28).
(6) Lift fan shroud up and out of lower shroud
attachment clips.
(7) Refer to Disassembly and Assembly in this sec-
tion for fan module sub-component service proce-
dures.
Fig. 25 A/C Condenser to Radiator Mounting Screws
1 ± AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER TO RADIATOR
MOUNTING SCREWS
2 ± LOWER ISOLATOR MOUNTS
Fig. 26 Draincock
1 ± DRAIN COCK BODY
2 ± DRAIN COCK HOUSING
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEMPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fan module into the clips on the
lower radiator tank.
(2) Install the fan module retaining screws and
tighten to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect fan module electrical connector.For
wiring diagrams of fan motor systems, refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(4) Install the upper radiator hose to radiator (Fig.
27). Align hose and position clamp so it will not
interfere with the engine or the hood.
(5) Connect negative cable to battery.
(6) Fill cooling system. Refer to procedure in this
section.
COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect recovery hose from water outlet
connector/thermostat housing (Fig. 29).
(2) Remove container attaching fasteners (Fig. 30).
(3) Remove coolant recovery container.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant recovery container and tighten
fasteners to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) (Fig. 30).
Fig. 27 Upper Radiator Hose
1 ± UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
2 ± UPPER RADIATOR MOUNTS
Fig. 28 Fan ModuleÐRemoval/Installation
1 ± SCREWS
2 ± LOWER MOUNTS
3 ± FAN MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 29 Recovery Container Hose
1 ± RECOVERY HOSE
2 ± ENGINE COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 ± PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 30 Coolant Recovery Container
1 ± COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
2 ± SCREW
3 ± NUT
PLCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 23
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

BATTERY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION..........................1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD).........2
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY BUILT-IN TEST INDICATOR.........3
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD).........4
BATTERY LOAD TEST......................6
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE...........7
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BATTERY CHARGING......................7CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY..............................8
VISUAL INSPECTION......................9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
BATTERY...............................10
BATTERY THERMOWRAP..................10
BATTERY TRAY..........................11
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS................11
TORQUE...............................11
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
The battery (Fig. 1) stores, stabilizes, and delivers
electrical current to operate various electrical sys-
tems in the vehicle. The determination of whether a
battery is good or bad is made by its ability to accept
a charge. It also must supply high-amperage current
for a long enough period to be able to start the vehi-
cle. The capability of the battery to store electrical
current comes from a chemical reaction. This reac-
tion takes place between the sulfuric acid solution
(electrolyte) and the lead +/- plates in each cell of the
battery. As the battery discharges, the plates react
with the acid from the electrolyte. When the charging
system charges the battery, the water is converted to
sulfuric acid in the battery. The concentration of acid
in the electrolyte is measured as specific gravity
using a hydrometer. The original equipment (OE)
battery is equipped with a hydrometer (test indica-
tor) built into the battery cover. The specific gravity
indicates the battery's state-of-charge. The OE bat-
tery is sealed and water cannot be added.
The battery is vented to release gases that are cre-
ated when the battery is being charged and discharged.
The battery top, posts, and terminals should be cleaned
when other under hood maintenance is performed.
When the electrolyte level is below the top of the
plates, Yellow/Clear in the test Indicator, the battery
must be replaced. The battery must be completely
charged, and the battery top, posts, and cable clamps
must be cleaned before diagnostic procedures are per-
formed.
Fig. 1 Battery Location
1 ± BATTERY
2 ± LEFT STRUT TOWER
3 ± PDC
4 ± THROTTLE BODY
5 ± AIR CLEANER HOUSING
PLBATTERY 8A - 1

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
A completely normal vehicle will have a small
amount of current drain on the battery with the key
out of the ignition. It can range from 4 to 10 milli-
amperes after all the modules time out. If a vehicle
will not be operated for approximately a 20 days, the
IOD fuse should be disconnected to minimize the
vehicle electrical drain on the battery. The IOD fuse
is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
Refer to the PDC cover to locate the proper fuse.
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED 20 AMPS WHEN
CHARGING A COLD -1ÉC (30ÉF) BATTERY. PER-
SONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
The time required to charge a battery will vary
depending upon the following factors.
SIZE OF BATTERY
A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery
may require more recharging time than a completely
discharged small capacity battery, refer to Battery
Charging Timetable for charging times.
TEMPERATURE
A longer time will be needed to charge a battery at
-18ÉC (0ÉF) than at 27ÉC (80ÉF). When a fast charger
is connected to a cold battery, current accepted by
battery will be very low at first. In time, the battery
will accept a higher rate as battery temperature
warms.
CHARGER CAPACITY
A charger which can supply only five amperes will
require a much longer period of charging than a
charger that can supply 20 amperes or more.
STATE OF CHARGE
A completely discharged battery requires more
charging time than a partially charged battery.
NOTE: Do not attempt to recharge a battery with a
yellow/clear test indicator.
Electrolyte is nearly pure water in a completely
discharged battery. At first, the charging current
amperage will be low. As water is converted back to
sulfuric acid inside the battery, the current amp rate
will rise. Also, the specific gravity of the electrolyte
will rise, bringing the green ball (Fig. 2) into view at
approximately 75 percent state-of-charge.
BATTERY CHARGING TIMETABLE
CHARGING
AMPERAGE5
AMPERES10
AMPERES20
AMPERES
OPEN
CIRCUIT
VOLTAGEHOURS CHARGING AT 21É C (70É F)
12.25 TO
12.496 HOURS 3 HOURS 1.5 HOURS
12.00 TO
12.2410 HOURS 5 HOURS 2.5 HOURS
10.00 TO
11.9914 HOURS 7 HOURS 3.5 HOURS
*BELOW
10.0018 HOURS 9 HOURS 4.5 HOURS
*REFER TO CHARGING A COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY
Fig. 2 Reading Test Indicator
1 ± TEST INDICATOR/STATE OF CHARGE
2 ± REPLACE BATTERY
3 ± CLEAR
4 ± BLACK
5 ± GREEN
8A - 2 BATTERYPL