bolt pattern DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owner's Guide

STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring.
Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scor-
ing, grooving, fatigue and pitting (Fig. 45). Replace
any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs (Fig. 46).
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and position
in connecting rod. Center bearing insert in connect-
ing rod (Fig. 47)
Fig. 45 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 - UPPER BEARING HALF
2 - MATING EDGES
3 - GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING JOURNAL
DURING INSTALLATION
4 - WEAR PATTERN - ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER BEARING
Fig. 46 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
Fig. 47 Bearing Insert Location
1 - Connecting Rod
2 - Bearing Insert
- A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 49
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 50). Check the bearings for
normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and
pitting (Fig. 51). Replace any bearing that shows
abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 52) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
Fig. 49 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
Fig. 50 Locking Tab Inspection
1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 51 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 129
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

nal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. The crankshaft position
sensor target wheel is mounted to the number 8
counter weight on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These
codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHARTÐ4.7L
GRADE SIZE mm
(in.)FOR USE WITH
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A0.008 mm
U/S63.488±63.496 mm
(0.0004 in.)
U/S(2.4996±2.4999 in.)
BNOMINAL 63.496±63.504 mm
(2.4999±2.5002 in.)
C0.008 mm
O/S63.504±63.512 mm
(0.0004 in.)
O/S(2.5002±2.5005 in.)
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 63).NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Remove A/C compressor mouning fasteners and
set aside.
(4) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove upper radiator hose.
(6) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted
inside radiator shroud.
(7) Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
(8) Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
Fig. 62 Main Bearing Markings on Target Wheel
1 - REARMOST CRANKSHAFT COUNTER WEIGHT
2 - TARGET WHEEL
3 - MAIN BEARING SELECT FIT MARKINGS
Fig. 63 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
1 - UPPER INSERT
2 - NO WEAR IN THIS AREA
3 - LOW AREA IN BEARING LINING
4 - LOWER INSERT
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 135
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

CAUTION: The head gaskets are marked ªTOPº to
indicate which side goes up.
(4) Position cylinder heads onto head gaskets and
cylinder block.
(5) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps
(Fig. 4):
²Step 1Ð Snug tighten M12 cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) and M8 bolts to
20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2Ð Tighten M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) and verify M8 bolts
to 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque..
²Step 3Ð Turn M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, 90 degrees and tighten M8 bolts to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original position.
(7) Install the intake manifold and throttle body
assembly.
(8) If required, adjust spark plugs to specifications.
Install the plugs.
(9) Connect the heater hoses.
(10) Install the fuel supply line.
(11) Install the generator and drive belt.
(12) Install cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Connect the evaporation control system.
(14) Install the air cleaner.
(15) Fill cooling system.
(16) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(17) Start engine check for leaks.CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect coil on plug connectors.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts,
and ground straps.
(4) Remove cylinder head cover.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the
engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with
other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2)
Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fas-
teners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the cor-
rect location and install left and right ground straps.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
NOTE: The right hand ground strap is located on
the front inboard stud. The left hand ground strap
is located on the rear inboard stud.
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 8 N´m (70 in. lbs). Begin torque
sequence in the middle of head cover and torque
bolts moving outward in a crisscross pattern from top
to bottom.
(4) Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fasten-
ers to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs)
(5) Connect, ignition coil electrical connectors.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Connect battery negative cable.
Fig. 4 CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 201
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

shaft counterweight has grade identification marks
stamped into it. These marks are read from left to
right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These
codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART - 5.7L
GRADE SIZE mm
(in.)FOR USE WITH
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A0.008 mm
U/S64.988±64.995 mm
(0.0004 in.)
U/S(2.5585± 2.5588in.)
BNOMINAL 64.996±65.004 mm
(2.5588±2.5592 in.)
C0.008 mm
O/S65.005±65.012 mm
(0.0004 in.)
O/S(2.5592±2.5595 in.)
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 9).
NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Remove upper radiator hose.
(5) Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.
(6) Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
(8) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513A
Insert and 8454 Three Jaw Puller.
(9) Using Special Tool 9071, remove crankshaft
front seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The front crankshaft seal must be
installed dry. Do not apply lubricant to sealing lip or
to outer edge.
(1) Using Special Tool 8348 and 8512A, install
crankshaft front seal.
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft or Damper, thoroughly clean the damper bore
and the crankshaft nose before installing Damper.
(2) Install vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(3) Install radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Install accessory drive belt refer (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 9 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
1 - UPPER INSERT
2 - NO WEAR IN THIS AREA
3 - LOW AREA IN BEARING LINING
4 - LOWER INSERT
9 - 208 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 209

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against the corner formed by the engine and the
transmission clutch housing during tightening
sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to
the cover and engine noise.
(4) Torque the (2)structural dust cover bolts that
go into the clutch housing to 6-11 N´m (50-100
in.lbs.).
(5) Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that
go into the engine block to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(6) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the rear face of block on the passenger side of
block to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the front face of block on the drivers side to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).(8) Torque the remaining (2) structural cover bolts
that go into theblockin an ªXº pattern to 54 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(9) Torque the structural cover bolts that go into
theclutch housingto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(10) Torque the 7/16 inch engine block to clutch
housing bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove engine mount through bolts.
(4) Raise engine using engine support fixture spe-
cial tool # 8534.
(5) Remove engine mount to insulator bolts (Fig.
21), (Fig. 22).
(6) Remove insulator from engine.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the skid plate.
(4) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the engine oil filter.Fig. 20 Structural Cover - Manual Transmission
1 - STRUCTURAL COVER
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - BOLT
5 - BOLT
6 - BOLT
7 - BOLT
Fig. 21 RH INSULATOR
1 - BOLT
2 - INSULATOR
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 217
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
(4) Disconnect brake booster hose and positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(5) Remove generator and set aside.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove lines or
remove freon from A/C compressor.
(6) Remove air conditioning compressor and set
aside..
(7) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(8) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
a crisscross pattern starting from the outside bolts
and ending at the middle bolts.
(9) Remove intake manifold and IAFM as an
assembly.
CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for
the intake manifold. If severe damage is found dur-
ing inspection, the intake manifold must be
replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold seals.
(2) Position intake manifold and IAFM.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts, and
tighten in sequence from the middle bolts towards
the outside in a crisscross pattern. Torque fasteners
to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Install generator.
(6) Install A/C compressor.
(7) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive crank-
case ventilation (PCV) hose.
(8) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
REMOVAL
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Install engine support fixture special tool
#8534.
(6) Raise engine enough to remove manifolds.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
raising the engine.
(7) Remove heat shield.
(8) Remove manifold bolts.
(9) Remove manifold and gasket.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
9 - 226 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5)
Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
73).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 73).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.
(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 74), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
Fig. 72 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 277
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)