check engine light DODGE RAM 2003 Service User Guide

(2) Install the one mounting bolt for the adjustable
pedal motor (Fig. 46).
(3) Clip the cable fasteners to the support.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector.
(5) Reconnect the adjustable pedal cables to the
brake and accelerator pedals.
(6) Install the new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(7) Install the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(9) Check for proper operation of the pedals.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 47).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 47).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 47).(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 47).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
Fig. 47 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
5.9L, 5.9L Diesel, and 8.0L engines utilize an
ambient overflow bottle for coolant recovery/reserve.
The 3.7L and 4.7L engines utilize a pressurized
degas bottle for coolant deaeration and reserve. This
degas bottle has coolant flowing through it continu-
ously, supplied by a vent in the hot side radiator
tank and returning to the heater return hose.
An optional factory installed maximum duty cool-
ing package is available on most models. This pack-
age will provide additional cooling capacity for
vehicles used under extreme conditions such as
trailer towing in high ambient temperatures.
OPERATIONÐHOSE CLAMPS
The spring type hose clamp applies constant ten-
sion on a hose connection. To remove a spring type
hose clamp, only use constant tension clamp pliers
designed to compress the hose clamp.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)
COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS
The Engine Control Module (ECM) has been pro-
grammed to monitor certain cooling system compo-
nents:
²If the engine has remained cool for too long a
period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diag-
nostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.²If an open or shorted condition has developed in
the electronically controlled viscous fan clutch circuit,
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
²If fan speed is not detected a DTC will be set.
²Coolant temperature sensor circuit problems can
set a DTC.
If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit
often enough to indicated an actual problem, a DTC
is stored. The DTC will be stored in the ECM mem-
ory for eventual display to the service technician.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data,
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the
DRBIIItscan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the
appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures ser-
vice information for operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCOOLING SYSTEM
- TESTING FOR LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate the engine until the radi-
ator upper hose is warm to the touch. Aim the com-
mercially available black light tool at the components
to be checked. If leaks are present, the black light
will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
Fig. 4 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
DRCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser
air flow obstructed.1. Remove obstruction and/or clean.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive not working.2. Check fan drive. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
3. Air seals around radiator
damaged or missing.3. Inspect air seals, repair or
replace as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE. GAUGE MAY OR
MAY NOT READ LOW.1. Heavy duty cooling system, and
cooler ambient temperatures.1. None. Normal condition.
2. Obstruction in heater hoses. 2. Remove hoses, remove
obstruction.
3. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck onCheck fan drive. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Water pump damaged. 4. Replace water pump.
HEAT ODOR 1. Damaged or missing drive line
heat shields.1. Repair or replace damaged or
missing heat shields.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive damaged.2. Check thermal viscous fan drive.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED OR STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.
TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect the cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
²Service to electrically controlled viscous fan
clutch
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART BELOW.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART
7 - 10 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (flucttuates, cycles
or is erratic)1. During cold weather
operation, with the heater blower
in the high position, the gauge
reading may drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective
or shorted. Also, corroded or
loose wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of
engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator
(air will build up in the cooling
system causing the thermostat
to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as
necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to
build up in cooling system
causing thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR
COOLANT TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING MAY BE ABOVE
NORMAL BUT NOT HIGH.
COOLANT LEVEL MAY BE
HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in
radiator cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap
seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace cap
as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT
PRESSURE CAP BLOWOFF.
GAUGE READING HIGH OR
HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator,
cooling system hoses, water
pump or engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

(4) Using a suitable size socket, loosen and remove
the block heater element (Fig. 10).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the threads in the cylinder
block.
(2) Coat heater element threads with Mopart
Thread Sealer with Teflon.
(3) Screw block heater into cylinder block and
tighten to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect block heater cord and tighten retain-
ing cap.
(5) Fill cooling system with recommended coolant
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check block heater for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 3.7L engine is installed into a water jacket at
front of intake manifold near rear of generator (Fig.
11).
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Partially drain the cooling system.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
4.7L V-8
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT)
SENSOR.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 4.7L V-8 engine is located near the front of the
intake manifold (Fig. 12).
(1) Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to 7,
COOLING.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
ECT sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
Fig. 10 Block Heater-Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
7 - 44 ENGINEDR
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission. The transmission cooler will remain on
the radiator and can be removed as an assembly.
(8) Remove the lower shroud assembly and the
electronic viscous fan wiring from the upper shroud
assembly.
(9) Remove the two radiator upper mounting bolts
(Fig. 36).
(10) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, broken
or missing fittings also inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(2) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(3) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(5) Connect transmission cooler lines to radiator
tank. Inspect quick connect fittings for debris and
install until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull apart to
verify connection.
(6) Position power steering cooler on the radiator
and tighten nuts to 8.5M´N (75 in. lbs.)
(7) Attach electronic viscous fan wiring to upper
shroud ands install lower shroud.
(8) Position coolant recover tank hose, washer bot-
tle hose and the positive battery cable into the clips
located on the top of the radiator.
(9) Install air box and turbocharger inlet hose.
Tighten clamps to 4 N´M (35 in. lbs.).
(10) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.
(11) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system and automatic trans-
mission (if equipped) fluid levels.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All cooling systems are equipped with a pressure
cap (Fig. 37). For 5.9L engines, the pressure cap is
located on top of the radiator outlet tank. For the
3.7L/4.7L engines, the pressure cap is located on top
of the coolant degas container. The cap releases pres-
sure at some point within a range of 97-to-124 kPa
(14-to-18 psi). The pressure relief point (in pounds) is
engraved on top of the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud MountingÐ5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - RADIATOR SUPPORT
2 - UPPER FAN SHROUD
3 - BOLTS (2)
4 - LOWER FAN SHROUD
5 - RADIATOR
7 - 60 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 39) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 5.9L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is located on the engine front
cover, and has an integral pulley attached (Fig. 40).
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ven-
tilation. The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrica-
tion is not necessary.
OPERATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
Fig. 38 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 39 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
7 - 62 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT CONTROL
MODULE
The front control module is a printed circuit board
based module with a on-board micro-processor. The
front control module interfaces with other electronic
modules in the vehicle via the Programmable Com-
munications Interface (PCI) data bus (J1850). In
order to obtain conclusive testing the Programmable
Communications Interface (PCI) data bus network
and all of the electronic modules that provide inputs
to, or receive outputs from the front control module
must be checked. All PCI (J1850) communication
faults must be resolved prior to further diagnosing
any front control module related issues.
The front control module was designed to be diag-
nosed with an appropriate diagnostic scan tool, such
as the DRB IIIt. The most reliable, efficient, and
accurate means to diagnose the front control module
requires the use of a DRB IIItscan tool and the
proper Body Diagnostic Procedures manual.
Before any testing of the front control module is
attempted, the battery should be fully charged and
all wire harness and ground connections inspected
around the affected areas on the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery
cables from the battery.
(2) Partially remove the integrated power module
from the engine compartment (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/POWER DISTRIBUTION/INTEGRATED
POWER MODULE - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the front control module retaining
screws.
(4) Using both hands, pull the front control module
straightfrom the integrated power module assembly
to disconnect the 49-way electrical connector and
remove the front control module from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the front control module on the inte-
grated power module assembly by pushing the
49-way electrical connector straight in.
(2) Install the front control module retaining
screws. Torque the screws to 7 in. lbs.
(3) Install the integrated power module (Refer to 8
- ELECTRICAL/POWER DISTRIBUTION/INTE-
GRATED POWER MODULE - INSTALLATION).
(4) Connect the positive and negative battery
cables.
HEATED SEAT MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The heated seat module is also known as the Seat
Heat Interface Module. The heated seat module (Fig.
4) is located under the drivers front seat cushion,
where it is secured to a mounting bracket. The
heated seat module has a single connector receptacle
that allows the module to be connected to all of the
required inputs and outputs through the seat wire
harness.
The heated seat module is an electronic micropro-
cessor controlled device designed and programmed to
use inputs from the battery, the two heated seat
switches and the two heated seat sensors to operate
and control the heated seat elements in both front
seats and the two heated seat indicator lamp Light-
Emitting Diodes (LEDs) in each heated seat switch.
The heated seat module is also programmed to per-
form self-diagnosis of certain heated seat system
functions and provide feedback of that diagnosis
through the heated seat switch indicator lamps.
The heated seat module cannot be repaired. If the
heated seat module is damaged or faulty, the entire
module must be replaced.
OPERATION
The heated seat module operates on fused battery
current received from the integrated power module.
Inputs to the module include a resistor multiplexed
heated seat switch request circuit for each of the two
heated seat switches and the heated seat sensor
inputs from the seat cushions of each front seat. In
response to those inputs the heated seat module con-
trols battery current feeds to the heated seat ele-
Fig. 4 Heated Seat Module
1 - MOUNTING TABS (NOT USED ON DR)
2 - HEATED SEAT MODULE
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
8E - 6 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULESDR
FRONT CONTROL MODULE (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE - STARTING
SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Battery Cable Eyelet Nut at
Solenoid (large nut - gas engines)25 19 221
Battery Cable Eyelet Nut at
Solenoid (large nut - diesel engine)14 - 120
Starter Solenoid Nut (small nut -
diesel engine)6-55
Starter Mounting Bolts - Gas
Engines68 50 -
Starter Mounting Nut - Gas Engines 68 50 -
Starter Mounting Bolts - Diesel 43 32 -
STARTER MOTOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER MOTOR
Correct starter motor operation can be confirmed
by performing the following free running bench test.
This test can only be performed with starter motor
removed from vehicle. Refer to Specifications for
starter motor specifications.
(1) Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to
Starter Motor Removal and Installation.
(2) Mount starter motor securely in a soft-jawed
bench vise. The vise jaws should be clamped on the
mounting flange of starter motor. Never clamp on
starter motor by field frame.
(3) Connect a suitable volt-ampere tester and a
12-volt battery to starter motor in series, and set
ammeter to 100 ampere scale. See instructions pro-
vided by manufacturer of volt-ampere tester being
used.
(4) Install jumper wire from solenoid terminal to
solenoid battery terminal. The starter motor should
operate. If starter motor fails to operate, replace
faulty starter motor assembly.
(5) Adjust carbon pile load of tester to obtain free
running test voltage. Refer to Specifications for
starter motor free running test voltage specifications.
(6) Note reading on ammeter and compare reading
to free running test maximum amperage draw. Refer
to Specifications for starter motor free running test
maximum amperage draw specifications.
(7) If ammeter reading exceeds maximum amper-
age draw specification, replace faulty starter motor
assembly.
STARTER SOLENOID
This test can only be performed with starter motor
removed from vehicle.(1) Remove starter motor from vehicle. Refer to
Starter Motor Removal and Installation.
(2) Disconnect wire from solenoid field coil termi-
nal.
(3) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal
and solenoid field coil terminal with a continuity
tester (Fig. 7). There should be continuity. If OK, go
to Step 4. If not OK, replace faulty starter motor
assembly.
(4) Check for continuity between solenoid terminal
and solenoid case (Fig. 8). There should be continuity.
If not OK, replace faulty starter motor assembly.
REMOVAL
3.7L / 4.7L
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Note: If equipped with 4WD and certain trans-
missions, a support bracket is used between front
axle and side of transmission. Remove 2 support
bracket bolts at transmission. Pry support bracket
slightly to gain access to lower starter mounting bolt.
Fig. 7 CONTINUITY BETWEEN SOLENOID AND
FIELD COIL TERMINALS - TYPICAL
1 - OHMMETER
2 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
3 - FIELD COIL TERMINAL
8F - 34 STARTINGDR
STARTING (Continued)