DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service Repair Manual

Page 261 of 1502


6
- 8
CLUTCH

IMPROPER CLUTCH
RELEASE

Condition
Found
Cause
Correction

1.
Clutch disc warped. New disc not checked for axial
runout before installation. Replace
disc.
Be sure runout of new

disc
is
less
than .5 mm (.020 in.).
2. Clutch disc binds on input shaft splines. a) Clutch disc hub splines

damaged
during installation.
b) Input shaft splines rough,
damaged.

c) Corrosion, rust formations on
splines
of disc and input shaft.
Clean,
smooth and lubricate disc
and shaft spines. Replace disc
and/or input shaft if splines are
severely damaged.
3. Clutch disc rusted to
flywheel
and/or pressure plate.
Occurs
in vehicles stored, or not
driven for extended periods
of
time.
Also
occurs
after
steam
cleaning if vehicle is not used for extended period.
Remove
clutch cover and
disc.
Sand
rusted surfaces clean
with
180 grit
paper. Replace disc cover, and

flywheel
if corrosion is severe.
4. Clutch disc facing sticks to flywheel.
Vacuum
may form in pockets over

rivet
heads in clutch
disc.
Occurs as
clutch cools down
after
use.
Drill
1/16 inch diameter hole
through rivets and scuff sand disc
facing
with
180J
9r>t
paper.
5. Clutch disc too thick.
Wrong
disc installed. Replace
disc.

6. Pilot bushing seized or loose. a) Bushing cocked during

installation.

b) Bushing defective.
c) Bushing not lubricated.
d) Clutch misalignment. a), b), c), d) Lubricate and install
new bushing. Check and
correct any misalignment.
7. Clutch
will
not disengage properly. a) Low clutch fluid level.
b) Clutch cover loose.
c) Wrong clutch
disc.

d)
Disc
bent, distorted during installation.
e) Clutch cover diaphragm spring bent or wraped during

transmission
instalation.
f) Clutch disc installed
backwards.

g)
Release fork bent or fork pivot
is
loose or damaged.
h) Clutch master or slave cylinder
fault.
a) Top off reservoir and check for

leaks.

b) Tighten bolts.

|
c) Install correct
disc.
d) Repalce
disc.

e) Replace cover.
f) Remove and reinstall disc correctly. Be sure disc side marked "to flywheel" is
actually toward flywheel.

g)
Replace
fork
and pivot if worn or damaged.
h) Replace master and slave cylinder as assembly.
J9006-22

Page 262 of 1502




CLUTCH
6 - 9 CLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
Condition
Found
Cause
T

Correction

1.
Clutch
disc
facing covered
with

oil, grease, or clutch fluid. a) Oil leak at
rear
main or input
shaft seal.
b) Too much grease applied to
splines
or
disc
and input shaft. a) Correct leak and replace
disc

(do not clean and reuse the

disc).

b) Apply lighter grease coating to splines and replace
disc
(do not clean and reuse the disc).
2. Clutch
disc
and/or cover warped, or
disc
facings
exhibit
unusual
wear or appear to be
wrong type. Incorrect or substandard parts.
Replace
disc
and/or cover
with

correct parts.
3. Clutch master or slave cylinder plunger dragging-binding. a) Master or slave cylinder
components worn or corroded. a) Replace both cylinders as

assembly
(and reservoir).
4. No
fault
found
with
clutch
components.
a) Problem actually
related
to

suspension
or driveline
component.
b) Engine
related
problem. a)
Further
diagnosis
required.

Check
engine/transmission
mounts,
propeller shafts and U-joints, tires,
suspension

attaching parts and other
driveline components as needed.
b) Check EFI and igniton
systems.

5.
Partial
engagement of clutch
disc
(one side worn-opposite

side
glazed and lightly worn). a) Clutch pressure
plate
position
setting incorrect or modified.
b) Clutch cover, spring, or release fingers bent, distorted (rough
handling,
improper assembly).
c) Clutch
disc
damaged or distorted.
d) Clutch misalignment. a) Replace clutch cover and
disc.

b) Replace clutch cover and
disc.

c) Replace
disc.

d) Check alignment and runout of flywheel,
disc,
or cover and/or clutch
housing.
Correct as
necessary.
J9006-23

Page 263 of 1502


6-10
CLUTCH


CLUTCH
NOISE

Condition
Found
Cause
Correction

1.
Clutch components damaged or worn out
prematurely.
Incorrect or sub-standard clutch
parts. Replace
with
parts of correct
type

and quality.
2. Pilot bearing damaged. a) Bearing cocked during
installation.
b) Bearing not lubricated prior to installation.
c) Bearing
defect.

d) Clutch misalignment. a), b), c) Replace bearing.

Be
sure it is properly
seated and lubricated

before
installing clutch.
d) Check and correct misalignment caused by
excessive runout of
flywheel,
disc,
cover or clutch
housing.
Replace input shaft if bearing
hub is damaged.
3.
Loose
components. Attaching bolts loose at
flywheel,

cover, or clutch
housing.
Tighten bolts to specified torque.
Replace any clutch bolts
that
are

damaged.

4. Components appear overheated. Hub of
disc

cracked or torsion damper

springs
are distorted or
broken.
Frequent
high load,
full
throttle

operation. Replace parts as needed.
Alert

driver
to condition
causes.

5. Contact surface of release bearing damaged. a) Clutch cover incorrect, or
release fingers are
bent
or
distorted causing damage.
b) Release bearing
defect.

c) Release bearing misaligned. a) Replace clutch cover and
bearing.
b) Replace bearing.
c) Check and correct runout of clutch components. Check
front
bearing
retainer
sleeve surface. Replace if damaged.
6. Release bearing is noisy. Release bearing
defect.
Replace bearing.
7. Clutch pedal squeak. a) Pivot pin loose.
b) Pedal
bushings
worn out or
cracked. Tighten pivot pin. Replace
bushings

if worn or damaged. Lubricate pin
and
bushings
with
silicone base lubricator
chassis
grease.

J9206-10

Page 264 of 1502




CLUTCH
S - 11
CLUTCH
SERVICE

INDEX

page

Clutch
Cover
and
Disc
Installation—All
11

Clutch
Cover
and
Disc
Removal—All
. 11

Clutch
Housing
Installation
13

Clutch
Housing
Removal
12

Clutch
Linkage
Service
14

CLUTCH
COVER
AND
DISC
REMOVAL—ALL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission and remove transfer case
if equipped. Refer to Group 21 for procedures. (3) Remove clutch housing from engine.
(4) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand (Fig. 1). Supporting engine is necessary to avoid undue strain on engine mounts.

Fig.
1
Supporting
Engine
With
Jack
Stand
And
Wood
Block
(Diesel
Model
Shown)

(5)
If clutch cover will be reused, mark position of
cover on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 2).
(6)
Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc and
into pilot bushing. Tool will hold disc in place when
cover bolts are removed.
(7) If clutch cover will be reused, loosen cover bolts
evenly, only few threads at a time, and in a diagonal
pattern (Fig. 3). This relieves cover spring tension evenly to avoid warping.
(8) Remove cover bolts completely and remove
cover, disc and alignment tool.

CLUTCH
COVER
AND
DISC
INSTALLATION
-
ALL
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch

disc:
(a) Install disc on transmission input shaft
splines and check fit. Disc should slide freely on
splines.
page

Clutch
Pedal
Installation
17

Clutch
Pedal
Removal
. 15
Flywheel
Service
. 17

Pilot
Bearing
Replacement
14

Release
Bearing
Replacement
13
Fig.
2 Marking
Clutch
Cover
Position

J9106-17

Fig.
3
Clutch
Cover
Bolt
Loosening/Tightening
Pattern

(b) Leave disc on shaft and check disc runout
with dial indicator.

Page 265 of 1502


6-12
CLUTCH

(c) Position indicator plunger about 1/4 inch from
outer edge of disc facing.
(d) Runout should not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.).
Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceeds this
limit.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease.
(3) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub,
(4) Verify that clutch disc is positioned correctly.
Side of hub marked "Flywheel Side" should face fly­
wheel (Fig. 4). If disc is not marked, position raised side of disc hub toward clutch cover and transmis­
sion.
CLUTCH

DISC

"FLYWHEEL
SIDE"
STAMPED
ON

THIS
SURFACE

J9006-33
Fig. 4 Clutch Disc Position (Typical)
(5) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi­
tion disc on flywheel surface (Fig. 5).
(6) Position clutch cover over disc and onto fly­
wheel (Fig. 5).

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC CLUTCH DISC
ALIGNMENT TOOL

FLYWHEEL.
J9106-18

Fig. 5 Clutch Disc And
Cower
Alignment/installation (7) Align and hold clutch cover in position and in­
stall cover bolts finger tight.
(8) Tighten cover bolts evenly and a few threads at
a time. Cover bolts must be tightened evenly and
to specified torque to avoid distorting cover.
• Tighten 5/16 in. diameter bolts to 23 N-m (17 ft.
lbs.)
• Tighten 3/8 in. diameter bolts to 41 N-m (30 ft.

lbs.).
(9) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear­
ing grease to bore of release bearing, release lever
contact surfaces and release lever pivot stud (Fig. 6).
CLUTCH

HOUSING

COAT

RELEASE

FORK
PIVOT
BALL STUD

WITH

HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE

RELEASE
FORK

(HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE)
LUBE
POINTS

(HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE)
APPLY
LIGHT
COAT

HIGH
TEMP. GREASE
TO RELEASE BEARING
BORE
LUBE
POINTS

J9106-19
Fig. 6 Clutch Release Component Lubrication
Points
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to splines of transmission input shaft and to release bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer (Fig. 7). Do not overlubri- cate shaft splines. Grease contamination of disc
will result. (11) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing.
(12) Install clutch housing (Figs. 8 and 9). Be sure
housing is properly seated on alignment dowels be­ fore tightening housing bolts.
(13) Install transmission/transfer case.
(14) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder. transmission and
CLUTCH HOUSING REMOVAL

(1) Raise vehicle and remove
transfer case if equipped. (2) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous­
ing from engine (Figs. 8 and 9). (3) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.

Page 266 of 1502




CLUTCH
6 - 13

APPLY
LIGHT
COAT
OF

HI-TEMP
GREASE
TO
THESE

SURFACES
BEFORE
INSTALLATION
J9106-15

Fig.
7 Input Shaft Lubrication
Points
(Typical)

ENGINE BLOCK
CLUTCH
DISC AND COVER

J9006-32

Fig.
8
Clutch
Housing
Installation—Gas
Engine
(4)
Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated. (5) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous­ ing.

CLUTCH HOUSING INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate release fork and pivot contact sur­
faces with Mopar High Temperature wheel bearing grease before installation.
Fig.
9
Clutch
Housing/Transmission

Installation—Diesel
Engine
(2) Align and install clutch housing on transmis­
sion. Tighten housing bolts closest to alignment dow­
els first and to torque values indicated (Figs. 8 and

9).
(3) Install transmission-to-engine strut after in­
stalling clutch housing. Tighten bolt attaching strut
to clutch housing first and engine bolt last.
(4) Install transmission and transfer case if
equipped. Refer to procedure in Group 21.

RELEASE
BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) On models with gas engine and new style re­
lease fork, remove clutch housing for access to re­
lease fork, pivot stud and release bearing retainer springs. (3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 10). (4) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur­ face is scored, worn or cracked. (5) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure lever is
not distorted or worn. Replace release lever retainer spring if bent or damaged. (6) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing, input shaft
splines, bearing retainer slide surface, lever pivot
ball stud and release lever pivot surface with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease. (7) Install release lever and release bearing. Be
sure lever and bearing are properly secured. (8) Install clutch housing, if removed.

Page 267 of 1502


6
- 14
CLUTCH

(9) Install transmission. Also install transfer case
on 4-wheel drive models.
Fig.
10
Clutch
Release
Fork
And Bearing

PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission and clutch housing.
(2) Remove clutch cover and disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing. Use blind hole puller
tools such as those included in Snap-On set CG40CB
to remove bearing. (4) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel. (5) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 11). Keep bearing straight during installation.
Do not allow bearing to become cocked. Tap bearing
into place until flush with edge of bearing bore. Do
not recess bearing.

BEARING SEAL
MUST
FACE

J9206-8

Fig.
11 Typical Method Of Installing Pilot Bearing (6) Lubricate bearing with Mopar high tempera­
ture grease, or an equivalent quality grease.
(7) Install clutch cover and disc.
(8) Install clutch housing, transmission and trans­
fer case on 4-wheel drive models.

CLUTCH LINKAGE SERVICE
The clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir,
slave cylinder and connecting lines are all ser­
viced as an assembly. These components cannot
be serviced separately. The linkage cylinders and connecting lines are sealed units. They are
prefilled with fluid during manufacture and
must not be disassembled nor disconnected.

LINKAGE REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) On diesel models, remove slave cylinder shield
from clutch housing (Fig. 12).
Fig.
12
Slave
Cylinder
Shield—Diesel
Models

(3) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing flange.
(4) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 13). (5) Disengage slave cylinder fluid line from under-
vehicle retainer clips. (6) Lower vehicle.
(7) On diesel models, disconnect clutch pedal inter­
lock switch wires.
(8) Carefully remove locating clip from clutch mas­
ter cylinder mounting bracket (Fig. 14). (9) Remove retaining ring, flat washer and wave
washer that attach clutch master cylinder push rod
to clutch pedal (Fig. 14).

Page 268 of 1502




CLUTCH
6 - 15

Fig.
13
Slave
Cylinder Removal/Installation (10) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(11) Inspect condition of bushing on clutch pedal
pin. Remove and replace bushing if worn or dam­ aged.
(12) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res­
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during re­
moval.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser­
voir to dash panel.
(14) If necessary, remove reservoir mounting
bracket screws and remove bracket from dash panel.
(15) remove clutch master cylinder rubber seal
from dash panel (Fig. 14).
(16) Rotate clutch master cylinder 45° counter­
clockwise to unlock it. Then remove cylinder from
dash panel. (17) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con­
necting lines from vehicle.

LINKAGE
INSTALLATION
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation. (2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser­
voir in vehicle.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel. Ro­
tate cylinder 45° clockwise to lock it in place. (4) Lubricate master cylinder rubber seal with liq­
uid dish soap to ease installation. Then seat seal in
dash and around cylinder. Unlock cylinder to install
seal if necessary. Then relock cylinder after seal in­ stallation.
(5) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N»m (40 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install reservoir mounting bracket on dash
panel, if removed.
(7) Install replacement bushing on clutch pedal pin
if necessary. (8) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with wave washer, flat
washer and retainer ring.
(9) On diesel models, disconnect clutch interlock
start switch wires.
(10) Install locating clip in clutch master cylinder
mounting bracket.
(11) Raise vehicle.
(12) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this be­
fore installing cylinder attaching nuts. (13) Install and tighten cylinder attaching nuts to
23 N*m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) If new linkage has been installed, remove
plastic shipping stop from master cylinder push rod. Do this after installing slave cylinder and before op­erating linkage.
(16) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.

CLUTCH
PEDAL REMOVAL
(1) Remove retaining ring, flat washer and wave
washer that secure clutch master cylinder push rod
to clutch pedal pin (Fig. 14). (2) Remove fastener that secure pedal shaft to
pedal support. (3) Slide pedal shaft out left side of pedal support
and out of clutch pedal. (4) Slide push rod off clutch pedal pin and remove
clutch pedal. (5) Remove and inspect bushings in clutch pedal
shaft bore and on bushing on pedal pin. Replace any
bushing that is worn or damaged.

Page 269 of 1502


en
PEDAL
SUPPORT
CYLINDER FLUID

RESERVOIR

PEDAL SHIFT
CLUTCH FLUID LINE (DIESEL ENGINE)
CLUTCH FLUID LINE (GAS ENGINE)

SLAVE

CYLINDER O
I—
e HI
O
x CLUTCH
HOUSING
WITH

GAS

ENGINE CLUTCH
HOUSING
SLAVE

CYLINDER
WITH

DIESEL

ENGINE SHIELD
J9206-1

Fig. 14
Clutch
Linkage
And
Pedal
Components

Page 270 of 1502




CLUTCH
6-17
CLUTCH PEDAL INSTALLATION

(1) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore and all
bushings with Mopar Multi Mileage grease. (2) Insert pedal pin into cylinder push rod. Then
position clutch pedal in support. (3) Slide pedal shaft through clutch pedal bore and
bushings. (4) Install bolt that retains pedal shaft in support.
(5) Secure push rod to pedal pin with wave washer,
flat washer and retaining ring.

FLYWHEEL SERVICE
Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc,
cover and housing are removed for service. Check
condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth,
and flywheel bolts. Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel
face can be scuff sanded with 180 grit emery cloth. However, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc
contact surface is severely scored, heat checked,
cracked, or obviously worn. Cleanup of minor flywheel scoring should be per­
formed with surface grinding equipment. Remove
only enough material to reduce scoring (approximate­
ly 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal is not rec­
ommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release. Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus­
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.).
Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly­
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial in­
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts. Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching

bolts.
Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks in the area of the attaching bolt holes. Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheel
is replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
• 75 N»m (55 ft. lbs.) for gas engine flywheels
• 137 N*m (101 ft. lbs.) for diesel flywheels Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear. If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom­ mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail­

able,
a replacement ring gear can be installed. How­
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han­
dling a heated ring gear. (c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut­ off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch. (d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating in order to install it. The method of heating and expanding the gear is extremely important. Ev­
ery surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem­
perature required for uniform expansion is 325-350° F.

CAUTION:
Never
use an
oxy/acetylene torch
to re­
move
the old
gear,
or to
heat
and
expand
a new

gear.
The
high temperature
of the
torch flame
will

cause
localized heating
and
damage
the
flywheel.
In

addition,
using
the
torch
to
heat
a
replacement gear

will
cause uneven heating
and
expansion.
The
torch
flame
will
also
anneal
the
gear
teeth
resulting
in
rapid wear
and
damage
after
installation.

(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise
grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as neces­sary for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool
down before installation. Set the assembly on a
workbench and let it cool in normal shop air.

CAUTION:
Do not
use water,
or
compressed
air to

cool
the
flywheel.
The
rapid cooling produced
by

water
or
compressed
air can
distort,
or
crack
the
gear
and
flywheel.

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