FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

39With the drivebelt tensioned correctly,
tighten the pivot and adjuster bolts to the
specified torque. Re-check the tension of the
drivebelt after tightening the bolts.
40 Reconnect the rigid brake pipes to the
modulator, tightening the unions to seal the
system.
41 Refit the modulator drivebelt cover and
secure with its two retaining bolts. Take care
not to damage the driveshaft CV joint gaiter as
the cover is eased into position.
42 Refit the belt-break switch to the
modulator drivebelt cover, taking care not to
damage the belt contact arm as it passes
through the cover.
43 Reconnect the modulator return hose by
pushing the hose firmly into its brake fluid
reservoir location, then lever out the collar to
retain it.
44 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and the one-piece undertray, as applicable.
45 Refit the roadwheels, then remove the
axle stands and lower the vehicle to the
ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
46 Top-up the brake fluid reservoir using
fresh fluid of the specified type (see “ Weekly
checks ”), then bleed the brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 14. Refit
the reservoir filler cap and the warning
indicator wiring multi-plug on completion.
47 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Modulator drivebelt
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
49 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
50 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
51 Remove the belt-break switch from the
relevant drivebelt cover, then remove the
drivebelt cover, as described in the previous
sub-Section.
52 Slacken the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts to release drivebelt tension, then slip the
drivebelt from the modulator.
53 Remove the track rod end balljoint from
the steering arm on the spindle carrier (see
Chapter 10).
54 Disconnect the anti-roll bar connecting
link (where applicable) and release the brake
hose from their locations on the suspension
strut.
55 Remove the pinch bolt and nut securing
the lower suspension arm balljoint to the
spindle carrier, and separate the balljoint from
the spindle carrier assembly.
56 To release the driveshaft inner CV joint
from the differential, have an assistant pull the
spindle carrier away from the centre of the
vehicle whilst you insert a lever between the
inner CV joint and the transmission casing,
then firmly strike the lever with the flat of the hand, but be careful not to damage adjacent
components. Make provision for escaping
transmission oil, if possible plugging the
opening to prevent excessive loss. Do not
allow the CV joints to bend more than 20°
from the horizontal or internal damage may
occur. If both driveshafts are to be removed,
immobilise the differential by inserting an old
joint or suitable shaft, before the other
driveshaft is removed.
57
Slide the drivebelt off the driveshaft.
58 Remove the snap-ring from the groove in
the splines of the inner CV joint. This snap-
ring must be renewed every time the
driveshaft is withdrawn from the differential.
59 With the drivebelt removed, closely
examine the condition of the belt over its
entire length. Renew the belt if any cracks are
noticed in the fabric at the roots of the teeth, if
there is any abrasion of the fabric facing
material, or if there are any tears starting from
the edge of the belt.
60 If, since the drivebelts were last renewed,
a vehicle has covered more than 30 000 miles
(48 000 km) or a period of more than two
years has elapsed, the drivebelts should be
renewed as a matter of course.
61 Prior to refitting the drivebelt, thoroughly
clean its CV joint pulley location.
62 Fit the drivebelt over the driveshaft then,
with a new snap-ring fitted to the inner CV
joint splines, lubricate the splines with
transmission oil. Remove the temporary plug
and insert the inner CV joint to its
transmission casing location. Press against
the spindle carrier so that the snap-ring
engages fully to hold the CV joint splines in
the differential.
63 Refitting is now a reversal of the removal
procedure, tensioning the drivebelt as
described in the previous sub-Section. Ensure
that the pinch-bolt securing the lower
suspension arm balljoint to the spindle carrier
locates in the annular groove on the balljoint
spindle. Secure the track rod and balljoint,
using a new split pin. Tighten the suspension
components to their specified torque (see
Chapter 10).
64 Check the level of the transmission oil,
and top-up as required (see Chapter 1).
Modulator belt-break switch
65 Modulator belt-break switches are fitted
to each of the two drivebelt covers, and clip
into position. To remove, gently squeeze the
protruding lever on the switch towards the
main switch body and lift out, ensuring that
the belt contact arm does not catch on the
drivebelt cover.
25 Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - adjustment
3
1Before attempting to adjust the load-
apportioning valves, the vehicle must be at its
kerb weight, ie with approximately half a tank
of fuel and carrying no load. Note that a
special setting tool will be required to adjust
the valves - this can be fabricated, to the
dimensions shown (see illustration).
2 Raise the vehicle on ramps or drive it over
an inspection pit, so that working clearance is
obtained with the full weight of the vehicle
resting on its roadwheels. Remove the spare
wheel and its carrier.
3 To check adjustment, insert the load-
apportioning valve setting tool into the nylon
sleeve without pre-loading the valve. If unable
to insert the tool, carry out the following
adjustment procedure.
4 Slacken the operating link adjustment fixing
screw then insert the setting tool into the
nylon sleeve, applying light pressure to the
operating link upper arm, so that the setting
tool fully locates. With the setting tool just
resting up against the adjustment post,
tighten the operating link adjustment fixing
screw to the specified torque (see
illustration) .
5 Repeat the procedure on the other valve.
6 Refit the spare wheel on completion.
26 Load-apportioning valve
(ABS models) - removal and
refitting
3
1 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
9•16 Braking system
25.4 Load-apportioning valve adjustment
A Setting tool
B Operating link adjustment fixing screw
C Adjustment post
25.1 Load-apportioning valve adjustment tool (dimensions given in mm)
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cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
2Raise the vehicle on ramps, or drive it over
an inspection pit, so that working clearance
may be obtained with the full weight of the
vehicle on its roadwheels.
3 Remove the spare wheel and its carrier for
access to the load-apportioning valves (see
illustration) .
4 Disconnect the load-apportioning valve
operating links from the rear axle twist beam,
by undoing the nuts securing them.
5 Disconnect the rigid brake pipes from the
load-apportioning valves, and fit blanking plugs
to prevent dirt ingress. Make provision for
escaping fluid as the pipes are disconnected. 6
Remove the bolts securing the valve
assembly mounting bracket to the
vehicle body, then carefully lower from the
vehicle.
7 The valves can now be individually removed
from the mounting bracket, as required, by
undoing the fixings securing them from the
other side of the bracket.
8 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal, adjusting the load-apportioning
valves, as described in the previous Section,
before refitting the spare wheel. When fitting a
new valve, the plastic tie must be cut off
before attempting any adjustment, and the
setting tool must be used as described in the
previous Section.
9 Bleed the brake hydraulic system in
accordance with Section 14.
Braking system 9•17
26.3 General view of load-apportioning valve arrangement (spare wheel and carrier removed for access)
9
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9•18 Braking system
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Notes
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10
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Wheel alignment and steering angles
Front wheel toe setting:Pre-1990 models: Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm toe-out to 3.0 mm toe-in (0°30’ toe-out to 0°30’ toe-in)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel ± 1.0 mm (0° ± 0°10’)
1990 models onward: All models except Turbo:
Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \
. . 4.5 mm toe-out to 0.5 mm toe-in (0°45’ toe-out to 0°05’ toe-in)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm toe-out ± 1.0 mm (0°20’ toe-out ± 0°10’)
Turbo models:
Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \
. . 4.0 mm toe-out to parallel (0°40’ toe-out to 0°0’)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm toe-out ± 1.0 mm (0°20’ toe-out ± 0°10’)
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Front hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front spindle carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Front suspension crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 7
Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Front suspension strut - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . 5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Power steering fluid cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Rear axle (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 12
Rear axle pivot bushes (all models except Courier) - renewal . . . . . 13
Rear hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber (Courier models) - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 16 Rear strut (all models except Courier) - dismantling, examination
and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 11
Rear strut (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . 10
Rear suspension anti-roll bar (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear suspension assembly (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . 17
Rear suspension components (Courier models) - general . . . . . . . . 15
Rear suspension ride height (Courier models) - adjustment . . . . . . . 18
Steering column (manual steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column (power steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering gear (manual steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 23
Steering gear (power steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Suspension and steering check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Track rod end balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Tyre condition and pressure checks . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information . . . . . . . 29
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Roadwheels
Wheel types and sizes (dependent on model):Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 4.5, 13 x 5, 13 x 5.5
Alloy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 5.5, 14 x 5.5
Tyres
Tyre sizes (dependent on model) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 R 13, 145 R 13, 155/70 R 13, 165/55 R 13, 165/65 R 13, 175/60 R 13, 185/55 R 14 or 185/60 R 13
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front suspension
Hub/driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 to 235 151 to 173
Lower arm balljoint-to-spindle carrier pinch bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 60 35 to 44
Front suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Anti-roll bar link to front suspension strut nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar link to anti-roll bar nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar retaining clamp bolts to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21
Front suspension strut top-mount retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 52 30 to 38
Front suspension strut spring retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 to 65 38 to 48
Front suspension crossmember bolts (XR2i only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Lower arm to lower arm mounting bracket bolts (using torque-to-yield
method with vehicle standing on its wheels): Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Slacken completely
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90°
Rear suspension (all models except Courier)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Rear axle to body mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Rear axle trailing arm bush bolt* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Rear strut top-mount retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 to 40 20 to 30
Rear strut-to-axle mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Rear strut spring retaining through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar front mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar rear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 113 65 to 83
Load-apportioning valve operating link to axle beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
*Torque to be measured from the bolt head (not the nut)
Rear suspension (Courier models)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Shock absorber upper mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Shock absorber lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Rear suspension mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Manual steering
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 57 to 72
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 68 42 to 50
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 55 33 to 40
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 14 7 to 10
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 56 33 to 41
Power steering
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8462
Steering gear fluid pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3123
Steering gear flexible coupling pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5138
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2619
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6346
Steering pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
Steering pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
High pressure fluid pipe to pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6548
High pressure fluid pipe coupling joint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1713
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Roadwheel nuts
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
10•2 Suspension and steering
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1 General information
The front suspension is of independent
type, achieved by the use of MacPherson
struts (see illustration) . The struts, which
incorporate coil springs and integral shock
absorbers, are located at their upper
mountings by rubber insulators and secured
to the inner wing panels by cup seat
mountings and locknuts. The lower end of
each strut is bolted to the top of a cast spindle
carrier. The spindle carriers house non-
adjustable hub bearings as a variation of a
proven design. The lower mountings of the
spindle carriers are attached, via balljoints, to
a pressed-steel lower arm assembly. The
lower arm assembly consists of two sections.
The lower arm mounting bracket is bolted
securely to the underside of the vehicle, and
has a locating peg and unique outer fixing bolt
to ensure correct location. The A-shaped
lower arm is attached to its mounting bracket
by double vertical bushes and controls both
lateral and fore and aft movement of the front
wheels. The balljoints connecting the lower
mountings of the spindle carriers to the
lower arms are riveted to the lower arms, and
are not available as separate service items. An
anti-roll bar is fitted to high specification
models and, additionally on the XR2i, a front
suspension crossmember is fitted. On all models except Courier, the rear
suspension is semi-independent, with an
inverted V-section beam welded between
tubular trailing arms (see illustration). This
inverted V-section beam allows a limited
torsional flexibility, giving each rear wheel a
certain degree of independent movement,
whilst maintaining optimum track and wheel
camber control. This type of arrangement is
called a “twist beam” rear axle. The axle is
attached to the body by rubber void bushes,
through brackets bolted to the underside of
the vehicle. Each bracket has a conical
locating peg to ensure accurate alignment of
the axle assembly. The rear suspension struts,
which are similar to the MacPherson struts
used at the front, are mounted at their upper
ends by nut and captive bolt fixings through
the suspension turrets in the luggage
compartment. At their lower ends, the struts
are attached, close to the wheels, by bolts
passed through the trailing arms and lower
strut integral bushes. The rear wheel
hub/brake drum unit and spindle on each side
form an assembly which can be unbolted from
the axle without disturbing the hub bearings.
An anti-roll bar is fitted to the rear suspension
on certain later models.
Courier models are fitted with a modified
version of the twist beam rear axle, using
linked torsion bars as springs and to provide
anti-roll stabilisation (see illustration).
Separate shock absorbers are fitted to control
suspension movement.
Suspension and steering 10•3
1.1 General view of front suspension components
1.3 General view of rear suspension components (Courier models)
1.2 General view of rear suspension components (all models except Cour\
ier)
10
1595Ford Fiesta Remake A Anti-roll bar
B Anti-roll bar connecting link
C Anti-roll bar suspension strut bracket
D Anti-roll bar bush and clamp bracket
E Coil spring and suspension strut
assembly
F Spindle carrier
G Lower suspension arm
H Lower suspension arm mounting bracket
I Front suspension (bracing) crossmember (XR2i only)
A Twist beam rear axle
B Coil spring and suspension strut
assembly
C Mounting bracket
D Void bush
E Brake drum, wheel hub and spindle
assembly
A Pivot brackets
B Rear axle
C Rear (anti-roll) torsion bars
D Connecting link
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On all models, the steering is of
conventional rack-and-pinion type,
incorporating a safety system of convoluted
column tube and double universally-jointed
lower steering shaft links. The steering column tube is supported at its
upper end by bracketry, and at its lower end by
a nylon support bush. The steering shaft is
supported within the column tube by two
support bearings, one at either end of the tube. The steering rack assembly is located on
the bulkhead. Steering input is transmitted,
via the steering shaft, to the pinion which
meshes with the teeth on the rack. The pinion transferring the steering input
moves the rack within its housing tube,
withdrawing and extending the track rods
attached to either end of the rack by balljoints.
This movement is transferred, by balljoints in
the track rod ends, to the steering arms on the spindle carriers which direct the roadwheels.
From the 1994 model year onwards, power
steering is available as standard or optional
equipment on certain models.
2 Front spindle carrier -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: A new hub/driveshaft retaining nut will
be required for refitting.
1 Remove the wheel trim from the front
roadwheel on the side concerned, then using
a small pin punch, peen back the locking
portion of the front hub/driveshaft nut. Loosen
off the nut about half-a-turn.
2 Loosen off the front roadwheel retaining
nuts on the side concerned.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate roadwheel, and unscrew and
remove the hub/driveshaft retaining nut and
washer.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the
brake hose and its locating bracket from the
suspension strut (see illustration).
5 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the brake caliper and anchor bracket from the
spindle carrier. Support the caliper by
suspending it from above, to prevent the
hydraulic hose from being strained or distorted. 6
Remove the single screw securing the
brake disc to the hub, and slide the disc off
the wheel studs.
7 On pre-June 1990 models, fabricate a
home-made bracket to secure the wheel hub
and brake disc to the spindle carrier (see
illustration) . Retain the bracket at one end
with a wheel nut and at the other end with a
brake caliper retaining bolt. This will prevent
the hub and disc from becoming detached
from the spindle carrier (with possible damage
to the hub bearings) when the driveshaft is
removed. On later models the hub is an
interference fit in the bearing inner races and
is unlikely to become detached.
8 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, undo the nut
securing the connecting link to the
suspension strut bracket, and separate the
link from the strut bracket.
9 Detach the track rod end balljoint from the
steering arm on the side concerned as
described in Section 28.
10 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the
spindle carrier to the suspension strut (see
illustration) .
11 Remove the Torx-head pinch-bolt and nut
securing the lower suspension arm balljoint to
the spindle carrier. Prise open the joint using a
large screwdriver and detach the balljoint from
the spindle carrier unit (see illustrations).
12 Using a small crowbar with a thin tip, or a
stout screwdriver as an alternative, lever the
spindle carrier slot to separate the spindle
carrier from the suspension strut (see
illustration) . Lower the spindle carrier slightly
10•4Suspension and steering
2.12 Separate the spindle carrier from the
strut2.11c . . . and detach the lower armballjoint from the spindle carrier2.11b . . . prise open the joint . . .
2.11a Remove the lower arm-to-spindle carrier pinch bolt and nut . . .
2.10 Remove the suspension strut-to- spindle carrier pinch bolt2.7 Securing the hub to the spindle carrier using a home-made bracket2.4 Disconnect the brake hose from the front suspension strut
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(tapping it down with a soft-faced mallet if
necessary) and carefully pull it off the
driveshaft, having supported the driveshaft to
prevent damage to the CV joints - the
driveshaft must not be bent at an angle
greater than 20° from the horizontal. If the
driveshaft is tight in the hub, lightly tap its
outer end with a soft-faced hammer, or use a
conventional puller and spacer to free it.
Remove the dust sleeve from the inner rim
groove of the spindle carrier.
Refitting
13Fit the dust sleeve to its groove, then
locate the spindle carrier over the driveshaft.
Draw the driveshaft CV joint through the hub
using the old retaining nut and washer.
14 Lever the spindle carrier slot open and
refit the spindle carrier to the suspension
strut. Remove the lever, refit the pinch-bolt
and tighten it to the specified torque.
15 Fit a new hub/driveshaft nut and washer,
and tighten the nut as much possible at this
stage. As the nut is being tightened, rotate the
hub to ensure that the bearings seat correctly.
16 Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering arm on the spindle carrier, tighten the
nut to the specified torque and insert a new
split-pin to secure.
17 Reconnect the lower suspension arm
balljoint to the spindle carrier, refit the pinch-
bolt and nut, and tighten to the specified
torque. Note that the bolt must locate in the
annular groove on the ballstud (see
illustration) .
18 Remove the bracket securing the hub to
the spindle carrier (where applicable), refit the
brake disc and tighten the single screw
securing the disc to the hub.
19 Refit the brake caliper and anchor bracket
to the spindle carrier, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque (see Chapter 9).
20 Refit the bolt securing the brake hose
bracket to the front suspension strut.
21 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, refit the
connecting link to the suspension strut
bracket.
22 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the hub nut to the
specified torque. Using a pin punch, stake- lock the nut in the groove in the end of the
axle stub.
23
Tighten the roadwheel nuts to the
specified torque setting.
3 Front hub bearings -
renewal
4
Note: The front hub bearings should only be
removed from the spindle carrier if they are to
be renewed. The removal procedure renders
the bearings unserviceable, and they must not
be re-used. Prior to dismantling, it should be
noted that a hub/bearing puller and an
assortment of metal tubes of various
diameters (and preferably, a press) will be
required. Unless these tools are available, the
renewal of the hub bearings will have to be
entrusted to a Ford garage. Under no
circumstances attempt to tap the hub
bearings into position, as this will render them
unserviceable.
Pre-June 1990 models
1 Remove the spindle carrier from the vehicle
as described in Section 2.
2 Remove the home-made bracket used to
retain the hub in place and slide the hub out of
the spindle carrier assembly.
3 Securely support the spindle carrier in a
vice with its inner face uppermost.
4 Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing outer race at diametrically-opposed
points and remove the bearing assembly from
the spindle carrier (see illustration). Do not
allow the bearing to tilt during its withdrawal
from the housing, or it will jam and possibly
damage the surface of the bore. Any burrs left
in a bearing bore will prevent the new bearing
from seating correctly.
5 Turn the spindle carrier over and remove
the inner bearing assembly in the same way.
6 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and hub,
then secure the spindle carrier in the vice in an
upright position.
7 Press the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race. Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position
(see illustration).
Once the bearing has been installed, take care
not to dislodge the inner race and seal.
8 Using the same method as for the outer
bearing, draw in the new inner bearing
assembly from the other side of the spindle
carrier. Again, take care not to dislodge the
inner race and seal once the bearing is in
position.
9 Support the inner bearing inner race on a
length of metal tube, and draw the hub fully
into the bearings using the same tooling
arrangement as before. It may even be
possible to insert the hub using firm hand
pressure only, but make sure that the inner
bearing inner race is well supported.
10 Fit the home-made bracket to secure the
hub into the spindle carrier, dismantling the
service tools or equivalent as necessary.
Ensure that the hub and spindle carrier do not
become separated at any time, as this will
displace the bearings seals and lead to
premature bearing failure.
11 The assembly can now be refitted to the
vehicle, as described in the previous Section.
June 1990 models onward
Note: On these later models, the bearing’s
inner races are an interference fit on the hub.
During removal of the hub from the spindle
carrier, the outer bearing inner race will remain
in position on the hub and a knife-edged
bearing puller will be required to remove it.
12 Remove the spindle carrier from the
vehicle as described in Section 2.
13 The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive out
the hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter.
14 Part of the inner race will remain on the
hub, and this should be removed using a
knife-edged puller.
15 Securely support the spindle carrier in a
vice with its inner face uppermost.
Suspension and steering 10•5
3.7 Using home-made tools to fit the outer bearing assembly to the spindle carrier
A Steel tube
B Spindle carrier
C Bearing D Steel tube
E Flat washer
F Threaded bolt
3.4 Using a punch to remove the hub
bearing outer race from the spindle carrier2.17 Lower suspension arm balljoint showing annular groove (arrowed)
10
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16Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing outer race at diametrically-opposed
points and remove the bearing assembly from
the spindle carrier. Do not allow the bearing to
tilt during its withdrawal from the housing, or it
will jam and possibly damage the surface of
the bore. Any burrs left in a bearing bore will
prevent the new bearing from seating
correctly.
17 Turn the spindle carrier over and remove
the inner bearing assembly in the same way.
18 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and
hub, then secure the spindle carrier in the vice
in an upright position.
19 Draw the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race.
Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position (see illustration 3.7).
Once the bearing has been installed, take care
not to dislodge the inner race and seal.
20 Using the same method as for the outer
bearing, draw in the new inner bearing
assembly from the other side of the spindle
carrier. Again, take care not to dislodge the
inner race and seal once the bearing is in
position.
21 Using the same tooling arrangement as
before, and with the metal tube or washers
contacting the inner bearing inner race, draw
the hub fully into the bearings. Alternatively, if
a press is available, support the hub face
down on the press bed and using a metal tube
in contact with the inner bearing inner race,
press the spindle carrier onto the hub.
22 Check that the hub spins freely in the
bearings, then refit the spindle carrier as
described in Section 2.4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Open and support the bonnet. Prise free
the protective cap from the suspension strut
top-mount retaining nut, then slacken the nut,
but do not remove it at this stage (see
illustrations) . Hold the strut piston rod with
an Allen key to prevent the rod from turning as
the nut is slackened.
3 Detach the front brake hose from the
support bracket on the strut.
4 Where applicable, unbolt and detach the
anti-roll bar connecting link from the strut
bracket.
5 Undo the two bolts securing the front brake
caliper anchor bracket to the spindle carrier.
Slide the caliper assembly, complete with
brake pads off the disc and spindle carrier
and suspend the caliper within the wheelarch
with a length of strong wire, to prevent the
flexible brake hose from straining.
6 Unscrew and remove the strut-to-spindle
carrier pinch-bolt.
7 Prise open the spindle carrier-to-strut joint
using a stout screwdriver, and separate the
carrier from the strut. Tap the carrier
downwards using a soft-faced hammer to
release it from the strut if necessary. Once the
two components are separated, support the
lower suspension arm to avoid straining the
CV joints. 8
Support the weight of the strut underneath,
and unscrew the previously slackened top-
mount retaining nut and lift off the upper cup
seat mounting. Lower the strut and remove it
from under the wheel arch.
Refitting
9 Locate the strut through the wheel arch and
refit the upper cup seat mounting and top-
mount retaining nut. Do not tighten the nut at
this stage.
10 Apply leverage to the spindle carrier slot
so that the spindle carrier can be refitted to
the base of the suspension strut. Refit the
suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt
and tighten to the specified torque.
11 Tighten the suspension strut top-mount
retaining nut to the specified torque, using an
Allen key to prevent the piston rod from
rotating. The final torque will have to be
applied without the use of the Allen key unless
a suitable open-ended torque wrench adapter
is available. Refit the cap over the nut.
12 Refit the brake caliper assembly to the
spindle carrier, and tighten the caliper anchor
bracket bolts to the specified torque (see
Chapter 9).
13 Refit the bolt to secure the brake hose
bracket to the suspension strut, and fully
tighten.
14 Remove the support from under the lower
suspension arm.
15 Reconnect the anti-roll bar connecting
link to the strut bracket, where applicable,
tightening the nut to the specified torque.
16 Refit the roadwheel, remove the axle
stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
17 Tighten the roadwheel nuts according to
the specified torque.
5 Front suspension strut -
dismantling, examination and
reassembly
4
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut,
a suitable tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be
obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors which can be positively
secured to the spring coils are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.
Dismantling
1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt, then mount it
upright in a vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged) and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting (see illustration) .
3 Remove the spring retaining nut, then
withdraw the lower cup seat mounting, thrust
10•6 Suspension and steering
5.2 Typical pair of coil spring compressors in use
4.2b Slackening the front suspension strut
top-mount retaining nut whilst preventing the piston rod from turning4.2a Removing cap from front suspensionstrut top-mount retaining nut
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bearing, upper spring seat, gaiter and
bump-stop from the piston rod (see
illustration) .
4 The suspension strut and coil spring may
now be separated. If a new suspension strut
is to be fitted there is no need to release the
coil spring from compression, but if a new coil
spring is to be fitted, release the compressors
gently until the spring is in its released state,
then remove it.
Examination
5 With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine the mounting
components for wear, damage or
deformation. Renew any of the components
as necessary.
6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage or corrosion. Test
the operation of the strut, holding it in an
upright position, by moving the piston through
a full stroke, and then through short strokes of
50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
Reassembly
7 If a new spring is to be fitted, engage the compressors as during removal, and
compress the spring sufficiently to enable
suspension strut reassembly.
8
Reunite the spring and suspension strut,
and refit the bump-stop gaiter, spring seat,
thrust bearing and lower cup seat mounting,
renewing components as necessary. Refit the
spring retaining nut and tighten to the
specified torque.
9 Carefully release the spring tension,
ensuring that the spring locates correctly into
its upper and lower spring seats (see
illustration) .
10 Remove the spring compressors.
11 The rubber insulator fitted to the top of the
inner wing is a simple push fit, and is easily
replaceable. Ensure when replacing this,
that the lip sits evenly around the locating
hole.
6 Front suspension anti-roll
bar - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
3
Undo the nut securing the upper end of the
anti-roll bar connecting link to the suspension
strut bracket, and disconnect the link (see
illustration) .
4 Undo the nut securing the lower end of the
connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
remove the link.
5 Remove the two bolts securing the anti-roll
bar brackets to each lower suspension arm
mounting bracket (see illustration), remove
the anti-roll bar brackets and withdraw the
anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
6 The rubber bushes locating the anti-roll bar
can be removed by sliding them off over the
link connections.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the retaining nuts to the
specified torque settings.
7 Front suspension crossmember -
removal and refitting
2
Note: The front suspension crossmember is
only fitted to XR2i models.
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners.
3 The crossmember, which serves as an
additional bracing component, is located
between the lower suspension arm mounting
brackets, and is secured to these brackets by
four bolts. To remove it, simply undo the four
bolts and lower it from the vehicle.
Refitting
4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal, ensuring that the bolts are tightened
to the specified torque.
Suspension and steering 10•7
5.9 Correct spring location in its lower seat5.3 Exploded view of front suspension strut assembly
6.5 Anti-roll bar bracket and mountingbolts6.3 Anti-roll bar connecting link-to-strutconnection
10
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
A Suspension strut
B Coil spring
C Bump-stop
D Gaiter
E Upper spring seat
F Thrust bearing
G Lower cup seat
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