light GMC CANYON 2008 Manual PDF

Page 229 of 428

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red cloth,
and a couple of reective warning triangles. And, if you
will be driving under severe conditions, include a small
bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap
bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-56.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base
of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe. And check around again from
time to time to be sure snow does not collect
there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help
keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
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Page 233 of 428

To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions,
you will cause a rocking motion that could free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few
tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use the
recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle
does need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-38.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road
and need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
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Page 259 of 428

White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, turn
on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system voltage
to properly charge the battery.
Trailer Brake Control Wiring Harness
The wires for the trailer brake control are taped to a
wiring harness under the instrument panel. The trailer
brake control harness will contain the following
labeled wires:
Dark Blue Wire (#47): Trailer Brake
Red Wire (#242): Batt ‘‘+’’
Light Blue Wire (#20): Brake Lights
Black Wire (#2050): Brake Ground
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch load from the CWR for
your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer
attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or
the GAWR.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-44
later in this section.
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Page 269 of 428

{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel
cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full,
and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel
cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overll
the tank and wait a few seconds after you have
nished pumping before removing the nozzle.
Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as
possible. SeeWashing Your Vehicle on page 5-103.When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it
clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic
system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or
improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate
into the atmosphere. If the fuel cap is not properly
installed, the FUEL CAP message will appear on the
Driver Information Center (DIC) and the check engine
light will be lit on the instrument panel cluster. SeeDIC
Warnings and Messages on page 3-42andMalfunction
Indicator Lamp on page 3-34for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel
by shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t
properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator
lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and
emissions system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-34.
5-9

Page 286 of 428

Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is lled with
DEX-COOL®engine coolant. This coolant is designed
to remain in your vehicle for ve years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs rst, if you add only
DEX-COOL
®extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how
to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
with engine overheating, seeEngine Overheating
on page 5-29.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOL
®coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to−34°F (−37°C).
Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work
as they should.Notice:Using coolant other than DEX-COOL
®may
cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator
corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may
require changing sooner, at the rst maintenance
service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or
24 months, whichever occurs rst. Any repairs
would not be covered by your warranty. Always use
DEX-COOL
®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOL®coolant which will not damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do
not need to add anything else.
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Page 300 of 428

Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum
brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads
are worn and new pads are needed. The sound
can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle
is moving, except when you are pushing on the
brake pedal rmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that
soon the brakes will not work well. That
could lead to an accident. When you hear
the brake wear warning sound, have your
vehicle serviced.Notice:Continuing to drive with worn-out brake
pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates can cause a
brake squeal when the brakes are rst applied or
lightly applied. This does not mean something is
wrong with the brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated,
inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel
nuts in the proper sequence to torque specications
inCapacities and Specifications on page 5-116.
Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if
you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the
rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear
brake drums should be removed and inspected each
time the tires are removed for rotation or changing.
When you have the front brake pads replaced, have
the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
5-40

Page 303 of 428

Notice:Ignoring these steps could result in costly
damage to your vehicle that would not be covered
by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
Notice:If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
system with a negative ground, both vehicles can
be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems
with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You would not be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the
parking brake rmly on both vehicles involved in the
jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission
in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL
before setting the parking brake. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case
is not in NEUTRAL.
Notice:If you leave your radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and
other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off
the radio and all lamps that are not needed.
This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries.
And it could save the radio!
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4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote
negative (−) jump starting terminal. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on page 5-12for more
information on the terminal locations.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause
battery gas to explode. People have been
hurt doing this, and some have been blinded.
Use a ashlight if you need more light.
Be sure the batteries have enough water.
You do not need to add water to the ACDelco
®
battery (or batteries) installed in your new
vehicle. But if a battery has ller caps, be sure
the right amount of uid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that rst. If you do
not, explosive gas could be present.
Battery uid contains acid that can burn you.
Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it
in your eyes or on your skin, ush the place
with water and get medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose
or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go
to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal
if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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Page 320 of 428

Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height
to its width.
Belt
:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be
made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead
:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped
by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire
:A pneumatic tire in which the plies
are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure
:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch
(psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up
heat from driving. SeeInflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-62.
Curb Weight
:The weight of a motor vehicle with
standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant,
but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings
:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identication Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.GVWR
:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR FRT
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
front axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR RR
:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear
axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Intended Outboard Sidewall
:The side of
an asymmetrical tire, that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa)
:The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index
:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure
:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire can be inated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating
:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible ination pressure
for that tire.
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